Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

fibber2

From what you describe, the probable cause is a buildup of varnish and crud in the valve body. When you put it in drive, a number of mechanical actuators route tranny fluid under pressure to clamp the bands and clutches required to engage first gear. Delayed action, especially if it requires that you rev the engine, indicates that things are not happening in the correct order, or are hanging up. When you give it gas, the internal pump rotation speed rises and ups the pressure - then things start to happen. So your challenge is to free up what is now gummed up. Old or overcooked fluid is the probable cause.

 

You should start with a fluid change. And all of it, not just what comes with a pan drain. There are shops that can do a dynamic fluid swap (many quick oil change places have this equipment). Some even advertise a solvent flush for really dirty units. Ask them to cycle the tranny lever thru it's range so that the solvent flows thru all orifaces in the valve body. I believe your '99 has the Series II 4EAT automatic. If so, go to a dealer and buy the external can filter (around $40 ???) and have the shop change this as well.

 

Assuming it runs better, change the fluid again in about 1000 miles, and you might just luck out and avoid a huge bill!!!

 

Please.... do me a favor and let us know how this works out!

 

Steve

ateixeira

I wonder if you disconnect the battery, if that would make the procedure a bit safer. To be honest that's beyond what I'd risk trying, but good luck.

 

I agree with the ATF flush suggestion. I saw a coupon the other day in the mail for $80 for this procedure. Any well equipped transmission shop will do this for you.

 

-juice

xwesx

Hey Steve, would you recommend performing this procedure as preventative maintenance as well? I am planning to do a drain/refill in a couple weeks here, but I doubt that a "flush" has ever been performed on my car (178K miles).... maybe it would be worth the added investment.

ateixeira

178k is the life of a good tranny. Count your blessings. :-)

 

-juice

xwesx

Oh, great juice, thanks for the jinx. My brother's '92 Camry's tranny made it to 230K, but I blame his wife's childish driving for laying it in an early grave....

fibber2

Jason,

 

To be perfectly honest with you, I like the idea of 100% fluid change, but I am a little wary of solvents and seal condition use in a well runnig transmission. This is just opinion, so take it for what it is worth. I suggested it in a case where it sounds like gum and varnish needs to be dissolved and removed. But any chemical harsh enough to do this could take a long term toll on clutchs and seals. Remember that clutch material in this application is often a cellulose paper product. Seal conditioner is intended to swell dry O-rings, but might promote early decomposition as well if it is not the right chemical for the ring material.

 

I spoke to a tranny guy once, and even he conceded that it is a great approach if the transmission is in trouble, but could carry risk if the tranny is otherwise healthy.

 

Steve

dhinca

I have a 04 Forester XT that I purchased new. By about 10k miles, I noticed substantial uneven tire wear on the outer edge of the front passenger side tire. I know the first rotation should have occurred somewhat sooner at 7,500 miles. I took the car to dealer, who performed alignment test to confirm a problem, performed rotation front to back, then re-aligned. The rear tire that was moved to the front had no descernable uneven wear at that time, and the left side tires also looked OK.

 

Now, 5,000 miles later, the tire that was moved to front passenger side is also worn on the outer edge (even worse that the original front tire). We're talking 'tread gone on outer edge'. The drivers side is showing less extreme uneven wear. By the way, I check air pressure regularly, maintaining the recommended pressure posted on the door panel.

 

Back to dealer, who confirmed alignment way out. Says I need new tires and I agree with that. However, I'm reluctant to put on new tires and repeat a 15k tire lifetime. Dealer thinks I must just be unlucky with road hazards knocking out alignment which could happen "just driving down the street". I'm a mechanical engineer with many years automotive experience, I'm observant, and I can't conceive of any of my driving events on this car would be substantial to knock out alignment, (I've never had any problems to this extent in 35 years car experience). Even if so, certainly not twice. The car is used in California SF Bay area, freeway and local streets, with no off road, etc.

 

Any insight on what other issues may be going on?

1. This car is just very sensitive to being knocked out of alignment, and I'm unlucky.

2. Dealer incompetent on alignment equipment or procedure.

3. Other suspension problems not detected by dealer (loose ball joints, etc.)

4. Something else??

 

Help! Any relevant experience or insight is appreciated.

ateixeira

That's a toughie.

 

Do you notice any pulling to the left or right when you drive now?

 

I'd put in a call to SoA, 800-SUBARU3. Clearly you are doing everything you can to make the tires last, yet they wear out prematurely.

 

Even if they can't help pay for the tires now, have them agree to at least cover any future problems (besides normal wear and tear), since you've had it fixed twice now. At the very minimum have them open a "customer says" ticket to register your complaint.

 

-juice

xwesx

Thank you for the input, Steve. I was simply considering the "100% fluid change" portion of it, so it is good to have someone else's thoughts on the subject. On the "well maintained" to "unmaintained" spectrum, my car's transmission probably falls into the "could use better, but not abused" category....

kens

I seriously doubt (1) is the cause. I also live in the SF Bay Area and my previous 98 Forester never once had an alignment problem.

 

(2) is possible. Which dealer are you using in the Bay Area? In my experience, alignment speciality shops (not to be confused with tire shops) do a far better job than dealers, irrespective of the model or make. One of my other friends had his Forester aligned at a dealer only to continue to get strange wear patterns. When he went to an alignment shop, it turned out that the dealer's settings were off by the same amount -- a calibration issue.

 

My suggestion is to log a case with Subaru as juice suggested so that SOA can keep tabs on you. My other suggestion is to try an alignment shop. Probably the best shop in the Bay Area is Custom Alignment in Mountain View. Of course, the cost will be out of pocket, but at the very least you will know that you're getting the most thorough settings possible.

 

Ken

suydam

How about

5) crappy OEM tires?

On my old Forester they wore unevenly prematurely just as you describe. After buying 4 new tires, voila! Problem solved. Never occurred again.

c_hunter

I vote for #2. I know my dealer does horrible alignments -- probably a combo of equipment our of calibration and carelessness. I would seek out a specialty shop. I actually got a great alignment from Firestone once.

 

Craig

edunnett

If the dealer who you've been visiting is Ron Price or Albany Subaru, may I suggest Carlsen Subaru in Redwood City? They are the only auto dealer that I will actually give my money to (ie: not just warranty work). The service department is very knowledgeable and honest. They may be able to help too.

Elissa

hammerhead

FYI - the airbag system operates via capacitors. They can retain enough power to trigger the systems for an hour or longer after the battery's disconnected. Granted, the sensors are out front, but I'd still be vewwy vewwy careful, or bite the bullet & let the service dept. do it right.

 

Cheers!

Paul

dhinca

Thanks to all respondees

 

The dealer was Stevens Creek. Their sales dept was great and easy to work with on the selection/negotiation, and transaction, but I'm not too impressed by service. I've set up an appt. with Carlsen, as I've seen good things on this board. I felt it was good to try and document this with Subaru, but SC didn't appear to be my advocate in this regard, so the phone number is a good lead that I plan to follow up on.

 

I agree on the suspicion that SC dealer alignment is not accurately doing the trick, whether due to calibration or practice, and I plan to use an independent shop upon getting the new tires.

 

I also agree the OE tires are less than ideal, but this problem is soooo asymmetric on wear that there is no way its the tire. Can anyone point me to a convenient discussion on replacement options. I've seen a few on this and the Forester board, but I confess I find it difficult to navigate. Am I missing something that can search then present only be 'thread'?

[Deleted User]

I'm VERY wary of fluid changes that use a machine to pressurize a tranny. I just went through a tranny fluid change in my Honda and learned the manufacturer specifically recommends avoiding machine assisted flushes. Instead, Honda says to drain/fill 3 times.

 

I did this myself on my CR-V, and can attest that by the 3rd drain the fluid was clean and clear.

 

-Ty

jfl

Ty,

 

Interesting you mention Honda auto trannys. I was talking with my regular mechanic (about everything and nothing) after he replaced my timing belt, et al. Someone stopped in asking for an auto tranny fluid change on an Accord. My mechanic told him that it requires Honda fluid and doesn't run as well with regular tranny fluid.

 

Just thought I'd share this as he's a very good mechanic whose word I trust.

 

Jim

fibber2

True, Jim. Honda, like Chrysler, is very particular about tranny fluid. You can get Honda spec fluid now, but it has been a long time coming. I suspect that this might be an issue in Honda's insistance on the '3 change' method. If you do the math, you are at better than 90% replacement with this method, but it is time and resource consuming. Fine if your trans is in good shape, but for the poster whose tranny was in deep trouble, I still think the flush and solvent method is his best bet at obtaining a recovery.

 

Steve

ateixeira

Some Honda trannies have proven fragile. My buddy's TL is on his 3rd, and it's not that old.

 

Fortunately the Subie automatics are generally very good.

 

-juice

leo2633

My brother and I changed the seals yesterday. Piece of cake, once you get the valve covers off. We had to remove the air intake assembly on the right, and the battery and washer fluid bottle on the left, then the covers came right off. The seals seat down over the "spark plug pipes" and have a shoulder so they seat to the proper depth. The old ones were quite brittle and showed some deterioration, which is why 3 of the 4 were leaking. We also put on new valve cover gaskets, even though they weren't leaking, and replaced the plugs and wires. Total time was about three hours and about $90.00 in parts.

 

Len

10years

In northern Nevada I bought and had all service done on my 03 Forester X at Michael Hohl in Carson City. To date no complaints nor overcharges. But.. I recently quiered them about the 30 K service and they said $399 without spark plug change because it was not really needed until 60 K. Really! Otherwise they'd add $100 to change them. I don't think so, a very reputable independent specializing in Honda and Subaru, Sunrise Automotive, is $350 and includes plug change. Was just curious what you all think of the spark plug change issue.

 

           Thanking you in advance.

           Ted

jfl

Ted,

 

Several years ago, my dealer told me the same thing. He said my 2000 Legacy had platinum plugs (2.5L SOHC doesn't) and didn't require a change until 60k. I did the 60k service myself and confirmed that the car did not have platinum plugs! I use copper NGK plugs and now change at 45k since the original Champions were fine at 60k.

 

However, some DOHC engines do have platinum plugs with a 60k change interval.

 

Jim

locke2c

good job Len!

 

btw I would change copper plugs every 20-30k for best results. on a high performance engine you can notice a difference in that amount of time and they are simple to change even on the DOHC boxer four.

 

~Colin

stynkdur

Thanks for feedback from board. Turns out my 2001 Forester was idiot-proofed for dopes like me who cross-wire their batteries. I burnt out ONLY the main 80 amp fuse. All other electronics were spared. Cost of new fuse, $2.50. Thank you car gods!

ateixeira

Easy with the right tools, sure.

 

-juice

troop2shos

In a fluid exchange, the vehicle's torque converter is utilized to transfer the fluid under normal pressure - not from the "machine".

johnclarke58

I have 1999 Outback with an Automatic Transmission.

 

When I shift from park or neutral to drive, the car initially won't move sometimes. The engine revs free without drive engaging. Eventually,(2 to 4 seconds) drive grabs with a clunk and a lurch. The car never slips once it is

going, and doesn't give any indication of a shifting problem once it is under way. The dealer tell me that there are no error codes and they checked the PSI, it dropped to 15PSI, when shifted from park to drive, they tell me that is out of specs. should be 30 to 60 PSI.

I am out of warranty (Major Component Warranty (60 month/100,000 km). I have 1999 Outback with 83,000 kms bought in May 1998.

I would be interested in hearing from anyone who has the same problem, because I am trying to make a case to Subaru Canada Inc. to consider extending the warranty to cover this problem.

I am told that this Automatic Transmission is used in both the Forester and the Outback in 1999/2000.

Any ideas what the problem might be? or the fix?

mnf

I picked up a extra (used) keyless remote for my 04 Forester I see some posts on programing for a 01 would it be the same. The FCC and part number are the same on the back I dont want to go to my dealer if I dont need to. Thanks for the help.... Matt

fibber2

John (?),

 

I am a bit confused by your post. Did you try the flush? I still think that you have a valve with a delayed opening, and not opening fully, resulting in reduced pressure.

 

Steve

elainer

Did you ever get your trans problem resolved? My '99 Forester has intermittant extremely rough up and down shifting - feels like getting rear-ended. Looking for ideas on cause 'cuz dealer can't find the problem.

pf2001

Just double checking, but I have an 04 OB sedan. I was wondering what people are using to refill their power steering reservior with?

I notice on the cap that it is asking for ATF. I guess the ATF is throwing me off. I can use regular power steering correct?

 

Just need some clarification.

 

Thanks.

raycc

Anyone had this problem before. I had been getting (about 4 times) this error code on my 2001 Outback (stock) since 90K. I now have 107k on it. It seems to happen when the weather is changing.

 

Every time when the CEL comes on, I take it to AutoZone. And it always that code. When I ask them what it mean. One time they said is the Catalyst converter and another time they said is the O2 sensor. The last two times, they said is no big deal, just ignore it.

 

P0420 Catalyst system efficiency below threshold: Blank 1

 

Thanks

xwesx

I did have that code record during a period when another sensor(s) went bad. I replaced the "knock" sensor, temp sensor, and an 02 sensor (I am not sure which one, but I could try to find out if you're interested), and have not had the problem since. I think the reason why the Cat Threshold code recorded was because the car was running somewhat inefficiently and there were more immisions than normal pumping through the exhaust and into the converter...

raycc

I have replace Knock sensor before at 70k when it was bad.

crashton6

I'd say stick to what the power steering reservoir cap is telling you. Your owners manual should also say what your power steering system takes. If you pour the wrong stuff in there it could get costly for you.

 

Chuck

vetmats

I have a 2003 Outback with the stock tires @ 32,000 Miles. After the rain my area has had this week, I am considering going ahead and replacing the tires. The tires were hydroplaning too often for my comfort when driving on the interstate; and the tires would spin slightly when accelerating through a right hand turn from a full stop.

I live in Kentucky, so I am much more concerned with rain performance than snow. (We only get maybe 1 significant snowfall per year.)

 

Can anyone recommend a good tire for my Outback that would be more suited for rain performance over mud/snow performance?

 

Thanks,

vetmats

lark6

I'd recommend two that I've used with success on my previous and current Foresters: The Dunlop SP Sport 5000 Symmetrical and the Michelin Pilot Sport A/S. Both are available in your Outback's OEM tire size.

 

I found the Michelins to have much better wet and dry grip, on a par with some of the better dry performance tires. However the Dunlops are quieter and offer a better ride. I should mention that I used the Michelins in a plus-one setup. Still they have a stiffer sidewall than the Dunlops so I imagine the Dunlops will still ride better in the same aspect ratio.

 

Both are more than adequate in the snow.

 

The kicker may be the price; the Pilot Sport A/S is one of the more expensive performance all-seasons, so unless handling is a very high priority for you the Dunlops may be the better bang for the buck.

 

Ed

rubysuby

First, I want to say thank you for the fantastic forum. I have lurked for a couple of years. The regulars here are incredibly knowledgeable and patient. I am sad though that Patti isn't around much anymore (and right when she was plugged in Drive Magazine).

 

My problem:

 

'03 ForesterX has lost power to the radio, only. Is this as odd as I think?

 

History is that I had radio and speakers upgraded immediately after purchase. The problem didn't start until about 6 months later. It can usually be "fixed" by opening and closing passenger door or rolling the window up or down. Last week it stopped working all together. Every once in awhile it comes on for a few seconds and goes off again.

 

Could it be a ghost? ;-)

 

My questions are:

 

Any ideas what is causing this? it is only the radio. Nothing else is bothered.

 

I have an appt at the dealer on Thursday but I dislike taking the car in there. I have never had any warranty work needed. This car is an ace. Besides, dealers give me the heebiegeebies and it is a huge inconvenience.

 

Is this something, maybe a short, loose connection, etc, that I can check for by removing the door panel? Or am I better off letting the dealer deal with it?

 

Love my car BTW!

 

Rebecca

jfl

If I were you, I'd bring it to whoever did the upgrade. Although I think you are definitely on the right track.

 

Jim

ateixeira

Must be either a short or a loose connection. There must be some wiring in the door that gets nudged over just enough to re-establish the connection.

 

The door speakears are easy to remove, so I'd look behind there to see what might be loose, or at least suggest the stereo shop look there first.

 

Good luck.

 

-juice

widdershinz

I have a 2005 Subie Outback Ltd. Yestersay, both headlights went out simultaneously. Or, I should say, the lights were working fine, then wouldn't go on next time I started the car.

 

I haven't checked yet to see if they are blown out, but even if a bulb replacement would fix the problem, I'm very suspicious of what caused it. (The highbeans and fog lights still work).

 

Has anyone run into this problem? I've had a few other transient electrical oddities with this car--but nothing that ever repeated itself or was consistent.

 

Thanks!

aferworn

How did this work out for you?

 

I have 98 Legacy and just experienced sudden overheating yesterday which I assume is a blown head gasket. I have no idea what this will cost to repair and am quite worried. Any ideas?

c_hunter

If you had an aftermarket radio installed, you should go back to the installer. Dealer is the wrong place to go for something like this.

 

There is zero relation between the door wiring and the main power circuit to the radio. However, if one of the audio channels were to short out, it is possible that the radio has some sort of overload protection that cuts power off. So maybe the installer messed up the speaker wiring in the door. Definitely take it back to the place that installed the stereo.

 

Craig

momt

Hi, I also noticed a gas smell coming from my 98 forester. I notice it when it is cold out and I am just starting it up. Sometimes I can notice it in the cab. It seems to go away after a minute or two. Has tightening the clamps continued to work? I have small children and am concerned that driving it this way may not be safe? Any thoughts?

c_hunter

Do the DRLs work?? On the 05, the DRLs are the low beams.

 

When you pull the stalk back (flash to pass) you should be seeing two beams on each side (four total) -- both highs and lows come on in this case. Is that what you're seeing?

 

I was looking through the shop manual, and the low beams are very tightly integrated with the DRL circuit and control unit. But, with a few simple tests we should be able to figure what component, if any, is not working.

 

Craig

widdershinz

Thanks for responding! Assuming DRL is synonymous with low beam (sorry, I don't even know what DRL stands for...) then the answer is no. The DRLs do not work at all. When I click on the high beams, just the inner bulbs (1 on each side) come on. Same case when I flash to pass.

 

Everything is consistent with the two low beam bulbs having burned out, and that is the obvious first thing to check--which I will, tomorrow--but as I said, I'm suspicious about why both would suddenly burn out simultaneously. The car only has 7300 miles on it!

 

The car is under warranty, of course, but is there something in particular I should be asking the dealer to check? I'm worried they'll just replace burned out bulbs and say it's just a coincidence.

 

Thanks again!

cptplt

Try the turanza ls series.it gets rave reviews at tirerack.Have them on wifes minivan and put them on my dadsavalon.great tires

rubysuby

Thank you all for the helpful replies. I am taking it to the stereo/speaker installer first.

c_hunter

DRL = daytime running lights

mnelson5

I have a 2000 Outback wagon with SAME water leak problem. I have an appointment with a dealership to clean out the drain system. But, I also saw message #4602 posted 1/23/05 that looks promising. Were you able to resolve your problem?