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Comments
The question as to whether to just replace head gaskets, or go for a salvage / rebuilt engine really depends on whether the overheating events caused unrecoverable damage. My friend's '99 OBW went thru at least two overheatings before he committed to gasket replacement. It required a slight head planing to true up some warpage, but the whole job still only ran about $1500 from a private shop. I would imagine a full rebuilt engine (not just short block) will run you at least twice that installed. But if the block is cracked, that will be your only possible choice.
Steve
The CAA says pretty much the same thing.
thanks alot. i'll check the local auto parts for those 'kits'.
edgar
Consistent out-of-the-door defects and design flaws keep plaguing these cars. I don't understand why Subaru doesn't fix the problems for good at least for the "next" year models after each problem becomes well known, well publicized, and well documented. Not the right way to run a business.
Thanks!
Steve
Craig
Had it repaired and I am at 226000 miles now. I still have all the original parts that you replaced
Get a Subaru dealer or a repair shop who has done this before. The local Subaru shop charged me
$2150.00 with all the cam and crank seals replaced .A good independent shop will likely charge less.
Look for a strong warranty on the Work performed. I cannot say what condition
the rest of your engine and car is? That is a decision you have to make.
VW does well in IQ, poorly in Durability. Subaru is the opposite.
At 5 years of age, Consumer Reports has them ahead of Honda. Just FWIW.
IIRC someone said they got a head gasket swapped for a few hundred bucks, I forget how much exactly. 178k miles is long for any engine.
-juice
-juice
better question-- when the tires were replaced, was anything addressed on the front end? alignment, bad strut replaced, bent components from an accident repaired/replaced?
anything?
~Colin
-juice
which tires did you replace?
if you replaced both front tires and not the rear that should've fried your center differential.
I disbelieve that either front axle would be harmed by two new tires of the same size. for one, they're the same size. two, your subaru does not have a limited-slip front differential.
I believe something else may still be wrong with your car, and that since it is an '02 (getting to the point finally!) that your dealer has misdiagnosed it and is charging you for what might (should?) be covered under the factor warranty. --assuming you have less than 36,000 miles on the car.
~Colin
-juice
The Outback was second last, just ahead of the Suzuki. It socred only 2s and 3s out of 5 stars in all dependability categories.
I'm pretty sure the axles are covered under the 5 yr. / 60k mile powertrain warranty.
Looks like they are covered. Just checked at http://www.subaru.com/owners/care/warranty/middle.jsp?pageID=2002
Axle shafts and constant velocity joints (except boots)**
DaveM
I hope you're still reading -- the cold start issue with the H6 motor in your 01 is different and easily remedied. You need to turn the key to on and wait 2-3 secs while the fuel pump pressurzes the system before cranking the engine over. If you do this, I guarantee it will fire immediately every time.
Now, having Accords and Subarus in the family, I hope you are joking about the Accord running rings around the Outback in all weather. That is exactly opposite my experience with 4 Hondas and 5 Subarus. Right now we have an 04 Acura TSX (Euro Accord) with traction control and VSA. Compared to our 05 Outback and previous Forester, the TSX is horrible on wet roads and in winter driving. not even in the same ballpark. If you are serious about the Accord being better, I would say maybe you forgot to release the parking brake on the Outback!
CRaig
Sit down a minute and listen to my sad story. Then, if you've got the least bit of heart, jump back up and tell me what I should do!
I have a '99 Forester S that burns oil by the bucketload. At least 4 quarts (maybe 5) between 3000 mile oil changes. The catalytic converter is clogging up from all that oil so the engine light is always on. I've been told it needs a new head gasket. The transmission went at 50k (replaced by dealer while under warranty).
The saga began 3 years ago when I purchased the car from a "reputable dealer" -and friend of the family - in my area. It had 38k on it (just a baby). Immediately things began to go wrong. The "new brakes" lasted exactly one month - had to replace front rotors. The brand new tires lasted 9 months because the car was so out of alignment when I bought it that the tires cupped.
Then the transmission stopped working. The dealer replaced that but wouldn't do anything about the oil burning (which when I purchased the car was a quart every 1100 miles). I was religious about 3000 mile oil changes (and still am). "That oil consumption is within the tolerable range," said the dealer. Now I'm at 111k. Engine light on because of catalytic converter being clogged, needs new head gasket - Subaru recognizes problem with this year's gaskets but only warrants it up to 100k. My mechanic has been telling me to get rid of the car for two years. But I don't want to dump this thing off on some poor sucker, and my wife loves the car. Hell, it still runs great if you don't mind dumping oil in it every other day and ignore the engine light and also the sense of impending doom with the head gasket leaking (oh, and the yearly tire alignment. I'd love Subaru to do something for me, but the dealer has been telling me "there's nothing we can do," for so long I've all but given up. Too bad a car which when I bought it was Consumer Reports' most reliable SUV has become my nightmare. Now I'm looking on the web for used engines. I still have a year's worth of payments on this baby. After you've blow dried your computer keyboard (only way to get rid of the copious tears I'm sure were spilled there while reading this post,) please tell me if you see any way out of this other than the nearest cliff.
Thanks.
I've been more conscientious about the pressurizing the fuel pump issue since I first read it here, but wait or no, it does not affect my '96. As a side note, a co-worker's '00 Chevy 1/2 ton just burned up a few days ago (during a -50F morning). Turns out her electric fuel pump sparked upon start-up and lit her fuel tank on fire. Odd scenario because it took all the right conditions to do it, but pretty much gutted out the back end and cab of the truck.
I will check into the warranty, but I'm well above 36K miles - more like 58K. I checked out the axle they removed; the rubber boot wasn't damaged, and i couldn't really determine any other damage, but got a mild scold from the rep, who said i was lucky not to have damaged the transmission as well.
-richard
When we hear of head gasket issues, it is almost always an external coolant leak and overheating is the symptom. Yours may be the first I have heard associated with dramatic oil loss. So I take that as a hint that this is a unque case.
If it were me, and I had enough money to save my sanity, I would trade it in on a new Forester and start fresh with a vehicle you can maintain well from the get go. Especially if my wife liked the car a lot. I generally hate parting with money, but peace of mind is priceless in some cases.
But I haven't really been in a situation like that, and I can only sympathize with you.
Good luck!
Craig
Excellent work!! Nice job figuring out the problem and fix.
Craig
Hell it is the one I would take every time period:-)
Cheers Pat.
Joe
The dealer can get them for you. They are over-priced for little plastic fasteners, but still only a few bucks. You may want to consider some other type of fastener if it's a hassle to get new parts -- could probably use short sheet metal screws for instance (just put them in a new spot where they can grab).
Craig
So far, I found one more Forester owner (2004XS) in Forester group had the same problem w/ me, which make me more confident this is a common problem for Subaru. This is a very good (and painful) lesson for me to learn how to test the moonroof if I am going to buy another car!
So, I repost my previous post w/o the link in case it could benefit other Subaru owner to troubleshot their problem (w/ 2 more pics after my fixed)
--------------------------------------------------------
Please read #4467, #4472,#4478 & #4494 for my previous post.
I sent an email to SOA from my.subaru.com and here's the reply I got:
"Subaru of America's warranty policy is designed for the protection of the purchaser from defects in the material or workmanship. At this time however that warranty has expired on your at 60,000 miles."
Since it's not covered by warrenty anyway, I open up the headliner to try to figure out the source of the problem and hopefully I can fix it by myself.
There are 2 metal tracks (left and right) on the roof to lead the water toward the front or rear (depends on the angle you park). On the real end, the tracks are cap w/ a plastic cover. I found water comes out from gap between the metal track and the plastic cover on BOTH side!!! Not only from the right hand side as I previous mention (Just because the seat belt compartment on the right hand side is the lowest part on the headliner to "collect" all the water). Here are the pics for right hand side and left hand side
I fixed them ( right & left )by myself by sealing them w/ the sealant (from home depot)
Since it's not only happen in one single track, I would assume it is casued by either a bad design or bad workmanship. And I guess some other subaru owners may have the same problem as me (but they just never notice it).
Here is the steps to test if yr Subarus moonroof has leaking problem:
1. Park yr car in a slop w/ the front tilt up to make sure water bring towards the rear.
2. Open yr moonroof and pour some water on the track (both left and right)
3. If it works perfectly, waters should comes out from the bottom rear (behind the rear wheels) and NO water should come out from the headliner
there is no way two front tires of the same size should cause an axle problem.
the center differential, which resides just aft of the transmission, maybe so if they were significantly taller than the rear tires.
~c
Letting the car warm up for a longer period of time seems to do it. But is this indicative of any kind of brake problem?
-juice
~Colin
I'd also trade it in.
-juice
My 03 Outback did that last winter with about 9k miles. Had the brakes flushed, and never happened again. Rob M.
Toyotas next.
-juice
Before you crank the starter, push the key into the On position and let the fuel pump prime the fuel pressure. That helps, too.
-juice
Heather,
I've got the same year model and the exact same problem at 64K miles. What was the verdict on your problem?
Thanks,
Allen
Heather wrote:
My 1999 Legacy Outback has 88000 kilometers (about 45000 miles) and the transmission is a big problem. It's automatic and when i put the car into drive, it doesn't engage until i give it a lot of gas. then of course when it finally does engage, it jerks fairly violently. it will even shift out of gear and into neutral when i'm coasting to a stop at a light or something. it's getting fairly dangerous. these problems started happening the day after i took it in for a routine maintenance. is this a common subaru problem? any suggestions?
thanks,
heather