Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

sheenjek

2002 Outback 5SP -

 

* Hesitation and Surging - First reported problem to Subaru at 5,000 miles. ECM reprogrammed in 2003 helped with hesitation at lower RPM, but wasn't the principle issue. Replaced "Sensor AY Intake Air" at 24,500 miles and this seemed to have finally fixed the problem. Note that the malfunctioning was not detected by the OBD computer.

 

* Excessive Wind Noise - Left Glass Trac replaced twice. Resolved issue both times, but assume the noise will return with age.

 

* Clutch grabbing-shaking-chatter - Clutch pressure plate issue. Fixed at 14,000 miles with "transaxle assembly," "cover cp clutch", and "disk cp clutch."

 

* 1st Gear disengaging on descents - Cause "tolerance incorrect" Replaced a bunch of gear parts (too many to list) at 16,000 miles. {The 1st gear ratio is too high for the vehicle but this is design problem, especially without the dual-range offered on other continents.)

 

All of the above problems were repaired under warranty.

jsun

Thanks Chuck and everyone for your advice. Actually, I have been reading up on the Utah Lemon Law myself ever since the second the time my Legacy was towed. I've kept all tow and service records just in case but I plan to exercise the Lemon Law only as a last resort. Here is an update on my Legacy - the dealer claimed they had replaced the start relay to see if that will solve the problem although they weren't sure if the start relay was the root of the problem. They said this was all they could do at this time until the car acts up again at which time they could try replacing the ignition switch. I did pick up my car yesterday (Saturday) and it has been starting fine since then but it has been relatively warm since Friday. I'm actually waiting for a bad winter storm or a major temperature drop to see if the dealer "fix" would pass the real test. I will call Subaru to set up a case with them on Monday. Thanks again. I'll keep you posted on how my story upfolds.

Jun

edunnett

sheenjek - are you providing this information for what it's worth, or did you have a question? sounds like you have a responsive dealer, which is great, but you got a bit of a bum wagon which is too bad. -elissa

edunnett

I'm hoping someone on this forum has some advice for me. I have the front exhaust pipe that I'm trying to re-attache to my car. There are three large embedded screws that come out of the catalytic converter and are used for mounting the exhaust pipe on - with the help of three m10x1.25 self-locking nuts. I have brand new nuts but w/o doing some work on the cat, I'm stuck with the threaded "screws" that come out of that piece. Problem is that one of the three sets of threads is damaged and the new nut won't go on - it keeps getting stripped on the way on and just spins around. I have anti-sieze lube on the nut but I'm not getting far. Any tips/tricks that anyone has for getting passed this stumbling block? After an entire week with the car in peices in the garage I just want to get it on the road! I'm afraid it will make a terrible noise without the exhaust piper properly attached to the cat.

Thanks!

Elissa

dcm61

Go bother the Honda boys with your Civic problems. :-)

 

You may be able to run a die over the buggered up threads to clean them up. I think some of the auto parts stores (Autozone, Advanced Auto, etc.) will loan out tap and die sets with a refundable deposit.

 

Good Luck!

 

DaveM

hondafriek

If you know the size of the stud that has damaged threads, you buy what's known as a cleanup nut. It looks like a regular nut but it is actually a die for repairing damaged threads.

 

  You might want to Check Pep boys or Advance auto.

 

 Your other option is to cut the stud off flush with the flange then drill the rest out, and use aregular bolt and nut.

 

  Cheers Pat.

hondafriek

You got your post in as I was typing mine:-)

 

  Cheers Pat.

jfl

The first thing I'd try is a die to reform the threads on the bolt. I have a cheapo tap & die set just for the rare times I need to clean-up a nut or bolt. Be sure to use cutting oil or something similar.

 

Good luck,

 

Jim

jfl

I'm obviously the slowest typist.

 

Jim

ppek

isun,

 

bummer, sorry to hear about your problems. I don't have any idea what would be causing your issues, since you said it was not the battery. Just make sure you get these issues documented by the dealership, and it might be a good idea to open up a case with Subaru.

 

Good luck,

 

Paul

hypov

hypov, "Legacy/Outback Wagons Problems & Solutions (Wagons)" #4058, 10 Jan 2005 9:26 am

jopopsy

I just bought an 05 Forester and opted to put the guards on myself.

 

First off, anybody who can actually use a screwdriver to install them w/o taking off the wheel gets a medal in my book. I went to a ratchet (thank God the screws were hex).

 

At any rate, the directions say to check for any gaps and adjust as required. For the life of me I cannot get them installed such that there are no gaps. Especially the back ones. I have maybe 1/16 of an inch in some places (maybe a tad more).

 

Now, the way I see it, I have a plastic underbody section and plastic flaps; so who cares right? Do I care about this? I was thinking of putting a bead of clear caulk around the joints and then smoothing it out .... but then it felt like I was being too darn particular about my beloved Subie.

 

?????

 

Jopopsy

ateixeira

Do you have self-tapping screws? If not I'd just drill a small pilot hole.

 

I have the OE ones and they were removed when I was hit and had to replace the rear bumper, and one of the screws is not fastened properly. I need to do this myself!

 

-juice

c_hunter

Yep, I echo the advice you already got -- try a die or fixer nut first. It ought to do the trick.

 

Craig

jopopsy

We're not talking real bad ... its just not flush on all contact points. Should I really be concerned? I wouldn't have given it a second thought were it not for the wording in the install pamphlet from Subaru.

c_hunter

Well, I always leave all the screws loose, push the mud flap into place to minimize gaps, and then tighen the screws down.

 

Don't use caulk!! If there are still gaps, I would leave it alone.

 

Craig

ateixeira

I think I have some gaps too. Maybe they didn't reshape it and the bumpers for the 2003 and later are slightly different?

 

-juice

jopopsy

Possibly. I mean it fits 'plumb' when I push it into place. When I let go it sorta loosens a bit and you can see some small gap. The fronts are more or less plumb though.

 

Probably nothing to worry about I guess; I'm just babying her.

ateixeira

You deserve OCD Club membership for this, by the way. ;-)

 

-juice

jopopsy

OCD Club? I'm not sure if that's a knock or a real thing b/c I don't know what it stands for ...

 

Did you lay some snap on me? :P

 

Jopopsy

 

PS Tweeter upgrade was well worth it. Fills out the cabin a lot more.

ateixeira

No, sorry, it's our club for those of us that love our cars just too much!

 

-juice

zman3

I've always assumed it stood for Obsessive Compulsive Disorder Club, but I am not certain. There are many of us who are, how shall we say, "particular" about our cars.

c_hunter

Yep, that's it.

edunnett

Jim and Hondafriek and Craig and Juice and anyone I missed :-),

Thanks for the tap and die advice. I never tried that before so I will go to an autoparts store and look to buy or rent. Turns out two of the three screws are holding the exhaust pipe on for now. Sorry about bringing my Honda questions to the Subaru forum but it was generic and should be considered a compliment! You're all so smart and helpful! The Honda Forum lurkers think "tap and die" are types of dances. -elissa

c_hunter

You can buy dies for a few bucks, and a die handle won't const more than $5 or so. Any good hardware store will have them, not sure if metric is common though (assuming that's what the bolts are on a Honda exhaust flange).

 

CRaig

dcm61

Your welcome Elissa. ;-)

 

If you use a die, be very careful that you start it straight or you'll be worse off than when you started.

 

DaveM <first to post about the tap & die dance routine>

kenm6

The engine light on my 2002S is on again. Last time it was on was about 2 years ago and it was under warranty. It took the service guy 10 minutes to change the oxygen sensor.

My question is does anyone know where the oxygen sensor located? I plan to do it myself this time because I think it will happen again in the future. Also what is the OHM resistance of the good sensor?

Any response will be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

dcab

We've got 23K miles on our 03 Forester but it's up for it's 30000/30 service based on time. What fluid changes and other services would you say are necessary? I was planning on an oil change, coolant flush and fill and a new air filter.

 

What do you think about an automatic transmission flush and fill at this time? Subaru only recommends an inspection of the fluid. What about the brake fluid. Subaru says to replace it, but do other manufacturers? Is there something unique about the Subaru brake system that would necessitate it? My dealer doesn't even do this as part of their overpriced 30000 mile service.

 

Anything else I'm missing?

fibber2

Elissa,

 

I thought I would throw in my two cents here. If the nut is spinning on the bold and not progressing, thread damage, oxidation and metal reduction may have left you with insufficient bolt diameter to make the system work anymore. Fine if you are just spinning the nut past this point, but it will just strip again if you are trying to snug it up against the flange.

 

If so, you may be forced to go a die size smaller and go to the next size smaller nut. But this may be a difficult procedure as you are now removing a significant amout of metal in one attempt - more than the die was designed to do. To reduce the load, you might do some file work on the remaining threads to reduce them diameter a fraction.

 

General use tips: Lots of oil - special cutting oil makes the work go so much smoother. Tighten the die no more than 1/4 turn at a time, then back up 1/8 turn, then tighten 1/4 turn, back 1/8. Special siping in the threads pick up the cut metal on the reverse turn and eject them. If you don't back up, you will mash the new threads, and damage the cutting edges in the die.

 

Suggestion: Hit an old bolt with a hammer, lock it into a vice, and practice before working in a confined space. Like anything, successful thread repair is all about technique!

 

Best of luck,

 

Steve

fibber2

I believe that there are two?? One is visible with the front right tire removed.

 

Steve

vetmats

I didn't see that you had the fuel filter listed. I think that is due to be replaced at 30K.

jfl

You can also go to a place like POST TOOL and buy a cheapo metric kit that covers many sizes. I wouldn't use it to cut new threads, but they are great for cleaning up damaged threads.

 

Jim

jfl

I believe diffy oil is also changed at 30k/30. But mine was perfectly clean and I'm waiting 45k miles for the next diffy oil change.

 

Jim

locke2c

sorry but was it already suggested just to cut the offending exhaust bolt off?

 

~c

kevin111

Hello again. I have been using 5W/30 Mobil 1 oil in my '02 WRX. I change my oil every 5000 miles, due to them being mostly highway in SoCal. Question is, with my car approaching 60K miles, and with my car supposedly burning a quart of oil during the last oil change, would it be wise to go to 10W/30?

 

I am hoping that being a quart of oil low was just a one-time occurance (maybe it was not filled completely last time?)

zman3

One quart in 5000 miles is not that much. I would stick with the 5W/30 for a while longer if I were you. My 98 Outback had one oil change where I burned a quart after never having done so in the past. It hasn't done it since. I do my own oil changes so I have no idea what was different that one time.

kevin111

Probably just being overly cautious with my car. Otherwise love the WRX!

locke2c

5w30 is pretty thin for SoCal, but with M1 it's not a lot different from 10w30.

 

your oil consumption sounds relatively normal.

 

~Colin

edunnett

So many helpful posts! I'm actually thinking I may not have to go down the metric tap and die road - since it sounds like it might be a little tricky. I have about half of the bolt that extends from the exhaust flange still in good shape. If I can just get the nut passed the stripped threads, I'd be good. So I think I may file down the ruined threads and maybe use your advice to open up the remaining good threads. Anyway... You all have been great! But you don't need to muddle over this anymore. Sounds like no "quick fix" but I know where to go from here I think. Thanks!

Elissa

zman3

If nothing else, rather than filing down some of the ruined threads, just try to salvage them with a die. If it doesn't work then file them down.

 

But obviously, do what you want to do.

ateixeira

My diffy and gear oil were not bad even at 60k, but check the intervals recommended for your specific Subie.

 

-juice

hondafriek

I suggested that when all else failed, cut the stud off, drill it out and put a bolt and nut in it's place.

 

  Cheers Pat.

98obster

First, I appreciate all the valuable information on the subaru forums. I can usually find the answers to any questions by searching past posts. Thanks. My question is: Is it normal for the top radiator hose to collapse when the engine cools on the EJ22 or does this indicate a problem. I'm thinking this flexing can prematurely degrade the hose.

 

Also, is there an aftermarket kit to add headlight wipers on 97-99 Impreza OBS (1/2 kidding I guess, but wondering). I have always thought they looked cool on Merecedes-Benz

 

BTW, What a winter to own a Subaru.

jfl

My initial thought reading you post is a problem with the radiator cap. As antifreeze heats up and expands, it's pushed into the overflow tank. As is cools, it's drawn back into the radiator. Sounds like the radiator cap is not allowing it to flow back.

 

Jim

jfl

It wasn't replace but INSPECT. So it doesn't need changing at 30k/30.

 

Sorry for any confusion,

 

Jim

leo2633

When you guys changed the oil in your rear difs, about how much did it take to refill? I have a 2001 Forester S with the limited slip rear. Anyone know if it needs a special type of oil or additive? Thanks in advance for any and all info.

 

Len

hammerhead

I'm putting a new battery in the OB today. I got 5 years out of the current one, so no complaints there. I admit I've been delaying this a bit, but it's been acting tired on cold starts lately. We're looking at -14F tomorrow night, so now's the time. It's not 41 below, but cold enough still!

 

Cheers!

Paul

fibber2

Agree with Jim.

 

Contraction of the glycol mix creates a vacuum that should draw liquid from the overflow bottle. Collapsing hoses indicates that the flow is impeded either by a bad cap, or a tube clog going to the bottle.

1) Take off the cap and inspect the small brass/steel disk that is in the center of the lower seal (touches the coolant in the radiator). It should be spring loaded, but will pull out under vacuum, allowing flow between the thick rubber lower and upper seals.

2) Inspect the bottom of the overflow bottle. If the hose is immersed into a thick buildup of crud, this could prevent proper flow.

 

Steve

river7

Where did the Subaru official presence go?

 

Did Patti move on? Any plans to replace her?

 

R

rangner

does it have enough water in it?

 

mine started doing that and I filled up the battery with distilled and it cranks good now.

 

mine is 5 years old also

 

Eric