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Comments
I am approaching the end of my 3 year 36K and was thinking about purchasing the extended......would YOU recommend it or what has been your experience??
Thanks
Check with some tire stores. Usually, the larger chains have access to more inventory so you might have more luck there. In any event, you should measure the circumference to be sure.
I ran into a similar problem with my Forester. I had about 20K miles on my tires when I had a unrepairable gash in my sidewall. Luckily, my local tire shop was able to find someone who had just unloaded a set of the same tires with approximately the same tread wear. I measured it, and it was within the circumference tolerance so I was able to save some money.
Ken
Historically, these types of warranties are a cash cow for the manufacturer, and not in favor of the consumer. However, if you are one of the few consumers who has a major problem it sure is nice to have the warranty! So I think it has to be a personal decision for each person. FWIW, I have never gotten warranties on the Hondas and Subarus I have owned, and have never regretted that.
Craig
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year All!
Elissa
Of course, with a one speed transmission you aren't going really fast anyway. A 2 speed rear axle was an option on some versions of the T.
Later models may have had better brakes.
Eric
Thanks for sharing your knowledge of the Model T. Someone mentioned 22hp. And I imagine the roads were pretty bad in 1913, not more than dirt. We certainly have come a long way.
Merry Christmas
Bob
Long Island
Merry Christmas to all!!! ;-)
Chuck
-Brian
Of course, another reason is the way rear doors are shaped nowadays -- it would be physically impossible for the windows to go down all the way, regardless of safety features/etc.
Craig
Dave
The only place I know of to buy Langka is through the internet -- try www.langka.com.
CRaig
Thanks,
Don Luce
How long should I wait before I wax the paint?
Suggestions on what is best product to use?
I'll most likely have it done at a detail shop.
CRaig
Craig
Thanks,
Don Luce
The Forester comes with a full-size spare but the comments all say that a new tire should be within 0.25" circumferences but it's more likely that a spare tire will be replacing a used tire. As such, it's unlikely the spare tire will meet that requirement. The owner's manual gives no particular guidance about driving precautions when using the spare tire. In the past a friend told me that for a FWD car with a non-full-size spare, it's best to put the spare on a rear wheel and to use a full size tire on the front (even if this involved changing out two tires). Other than getting the flat tire fixed and put back on the vehicle, does anyone have additional guidance about where to put the spare or precautions when driving on the spare?
Sly
I should do everyone a favor and buy 4 Blizzaks like I did years ago. We had four soft winters in a row on Long Island and I never got to play with my snow tires as I traded the car in.
Bob
If the noise happens for a few seconds then goes away, this is a definite possiblity. If it happens longer than that, it's most likely something else.
On the H4 engine, the filter is mounted vertically on the botton of the block, so I don't think the oil can "drain back".
DaveM
Al
One thing to check -- look under the hood around the area of the fuel filter near the driver's side strut tower. Check for signs of leakage or tension in the hoses. Trace the fuel path in both directions from the filter, continuing to check for leaks/issues.
Subaru did have an issue in the 02 Impreza where the fuel lines would contract in cold weather, thus putting pressure on the clamps and causing leaks. So keep your eye out for that sort of thing.
good luck!
Craig
I was about to buy an '05 in addition to this one for my wife, needless to say I am thinking that one over again. I loved this car bu I have only owned this thing since May 2003 and I have roughly $2500 sunk in out of pocket costs, this is nutts. My VW wasn't even this bad.
Patti is there anything I can do to keep from going broke with this thing?
Thanks
SJ
If you do, maybe air down the spare 3-4 lbs to make up the difference? (or, air up the other 3 and keep the spare at 29 psi).
I plan to replace the spare with my best worn out Geo when I purchase new ones.
John
Kind of like the link between car washing and the weather, if you need nice weather on a weekend, be sure not to wash your car, otherwise it will pour!
Sly
Sorry to hear about your car woes. Did you actually notice any symptoms of brake and clutch wear or are you doing as the dealer suggested? There are some dealers that unfortunately push some unecessary repairs and replacements so I'm hoping that isn't the same in your case.
Brake rotor replacement is only necessary if the rotor thickness is below the minimum. That can happen through regular braking or through machining -- often done to help cure warped rotors.
Is your clutch slipping or is it simply chattering? If it's the latter and not bothering you, you probably can continue to drive on the current clutch. If the chatter is bothering you, you can get the flywheel resurfaced along with a new clutch disc for less money than a full replacement.
Do you have access to other dealers or independent shops? Brakes and clutches are pretty basic repairs so there's no absolute need to use a dealer.
Ken
Karl
Al
I can't put my 1996 Impreza Outback automatic in gear until I warm the car up for about 1/2 hour in cold winter. The button on the stick won't go in until the car warms up. Any suggestions
While I have taken the vehicle to the dealer for service, I was told that they were unable to duplicate the problem and that everything was normal. I rejected the assessment and insisted that there was a problem. I have owned and driven 4 vehicles in the time I have lived here and I have never encountered any similar experience with any of these vehicles.
The head of the service department at Southern Oregon Subaru was courteous and helpful and offered to take my vehicle home to try to duplicate the problem on his own steep driveway. He provided me with another 2004 Outback wagon for the evening. The results were most interesting.
Not only was the head of the service department able to duplicate the problem in my vehicle, the vehicle he loaned me did the same thing on my hill the following morning en route to pick up my own car. The service manager spent considerable time on the phone with Subaru of America but was also unable to explain what exactly is causing this odd behavior.
Subaru responded that the behavior "was normal for this make and model". If it is "normal", why can't anyone tell me what it is.
Worse, yesterday I experienced another incident that placed my family in peril. I now consider the vehicle to be unsafe under certain weather and terrain circumstances. I demand an explanation as to what Subaru intends to do about this potentially dangerous flaw in the vehicle.
While descending my step hill with wet, slippery snow covering the road, I placed the vehicle in first gear (it is an automatic transmission) and began to use the brakes to slow the descent. Do not think I am an inexperienced driver nor that I had the brakes locked. Neither is the case. I applied the brakes gradually and pumped them only to find that each time pressure was applied to the pedal a series of violent clunking noises and radical vibrations were felt through the brake pedal. It was a frightening experience and unacceptable performance for a vehicle as highly touted as Subaru.
Is Subaru telling me that this “normal” behavior is acceptable? I reject such a notion. Worse, I now feel unsafe in this vehicle and fear for the safety of my family.
Bottom line is I'm screwed. I need a new clutch $1,406. New Exhaust Y Pipe $358. New belts $90. Total $1855. Total in my last 12 months $3,000. Yup $3000 in out of pocket costs not including $600 for tires last week.
So since they only will give me $10K for my car as is and I owe $13,400 because I paid a premium for Suby reliability I will probably wind up with either a 2002 Ltd or 2003 OBW off their used lot for a total of $22,606 financed and again I will be screwed. Nothing like oweing $22,606 for a car worth $17,500ish.
This has ruined my Christmas.
I don't have many choices and SOA said "sorry our products disappointed you but there is nothing we can do". I have raved about my Suby since I got it and raved about my dealership and this is the final result. You have to be kidding me.
SJ
1) have you ever owned a vehicle with ABS before? the brake pedal will pulsate when it engages and you will hear the actuator motor(s) especially at very low speeds or sliding to a stop. this is normal.
2) in your wet, slippery snow descent example that sounds a lot of like a typical misuse of ABS. do not pump the break pedal in a vehicle equipped with ABS. did you attempt to just keep the pedal down and see what occurred?
3) in your driveway example is this also when it is wet and slippery? has this problem ever occurred on dry ground?
please take no offense to any of this. I am not attempting to make you feel silly or look bad.
I am here to help, just answer as honestly and accurately as you can, and toss aside your ego.
~Colin
~c
But as I said last post I want out of this money trap. I will never buy the first model year of a major change again, yikes.
Nothing frustrates me more than fealing taken and I now feel taken.
SJ
Bob
the powertrain has not changed significantly if it all (in the case of the non-turbo models). if you're determined to switch, sadly I would advise not to get another Subaru. I really disbelieve that you will continue to have troubles and think that a replacement vehicle of any sort will certainly cost you more in the short and long run.. but this is probably an emotional choice by now, not a numbers one.
however if you think the numbers are with you I'd like to see that sketched out!
you should be able to find a clutch specialist willing and able to do the job for $500 or less labor. if they sell OEM parts great, if not they should do the job with parts you provide since they can't get them.
~c
The dealer was running a full mkt price trade in special that would have wiped my note clean at $13,400.....but they didn't have any 2002 or 2003 with decent milage on the lot at the time. So come 12/25 driving home and boom clutch issues 1 week too late. Merry Christmas to me!!!!
It just sucks that SOA copped such a crappy attitude on the phone about their products. "Sorry our products dissappointed you but there is nothing we can do"......yeah great buddy.
SJ
I'm not sure if this helps, but I know there is a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) out from Subaru on this issue (fuel smell in cold weather)for 2002 WRX's. The number is 09-36-03.
The issue has to do with a fuel pipe under the intake manifold. I have no idea if this applies to your car?
Paul
good luck!
~c
no offense taken. I appreciate the questions since I want to resolve the problem.
The most important question you ask is if the clunking/grinding happens on dry pavement as well. The answer is yes. That might rule out the ABS possibility.
Also, if I wait until after the auto-tranny shifts before applying the brake, there is NEVER a clunk or grind in the pedal. And most interesting, after it happens the first time, I can go around the block and do the same route and can not make it happen a second time. Not until the vehicle sits for a long time.
Yes, pumping brakes on ABS is not the way to do it. You are right there and I may have been doing that but the fact remains, even when keeping the brakes on, the vibrations and grinding sounds were so extreme that I felt I needed to release the brakes and try again.
I have owned ABS vehicles before, I also own a Honda Accord with ABS, and have never had this problem with any of them until the Subaru.
Thanks for your interest.
Arnold
now I'm curious if the center differential is binding up the front / rear.
~c
I think I am even more shocked the service manager did not recognize what was going on.
Craig
http://members.cox.net/craig.hunter/03-51-02R.pdf
Is this the problem you are experiencing? Please give us more details on the problem.
How many miles were on the car when you bought it in 2003? Did you notice the clutch problems then? Were teh cluthc problems documented at any time before the 3/36 warranty and/or 5/60 warranty expired?
Depending on the answer to these questions, you may be able to get the clutch replaced free under the TSB. Let me know more details.
If you are not experiencing the judder issue in the TSB, I would suspect the previous owner may have abused the clutch. They should last to 100,000 miles easily.
Craig