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Comments
I'm honestly afraid for him to drive it that way around here much less from Southern Virginia to Daytona Beach, Florida, but he says it's ok. I'm working two part time jobs to make ends meet - we just don't have a lot of money to sink into the car. It was a gift from my sister when she got her new car. The dealer says there's a leak in the gasket (which you can smell when the engine gets hot) and the alternator belt has a bit of a crack in it. My son bought a bottle of fuel injector stuff to put in the tank, but we couldn't afford to fill the tank up all the way to use it (can you use a whole bottle of fuel line cleaner on only half a tank of gas?). He also put premium in the tank for some reason, thinking it would help the misfire problem, but I read in this forum that it might, in fact, make the problem worse. Should I wait until all the premium is gone before we put the fuel injector formula in with regular or finish filling up the tank with premium and dump it in the tank?
We both love this car - it's the first semi-nice one we've had. He wants to take it to college so badly, but I can't help think that driving down 95 at 80 mph is going to exacerbate the problem and probably blow the engine with the gasket leaking oil the way it is already.
BTW, we couldn't get the A/C fixed for two years because the dealer said we had to order some special computer part that cost $500, plus the labor to change it (required removal of the dash). Something to do with controlling the gates. Turns out my son, who has no mechanical experience, read about cleaning the round tube with little tiny wires in it with degreasing fluid on a forum and all of the sudden the air conditioning works perfectly. No $500 part needed. I'm feeling a little used...I guess it's good we could never afford to get it repaired. If someone could help me figure out the best way to work on trying to get all these things fixed (which MUST be done by dealer, which by other places) I'd greatly appreciate it.
It's a 98 Impreza L Coupe 2.2 litre engine with auto transmission.
It is possible that you sucked up some sludge from the bottom of the tank when the fuel ran low. There are also some evaporative emissions components that can also act up when the fuel level drops that low. The fuel injector cleaner might help, and yes, I have used it with a partial tank. The instructions usually say to mix with xx gallons of fuel, so simply add only say 1/2 or 2/3 of the bottle to a half full tank, then the balance when you get more fuel. Premium will do no harm. Often they have a sightly better detergent additive package, so could actually help. You might consider replacing the fuel filter (a $20 part) located right near the brake booster, when you can.
The Check Engine codes of P0102/0103 refer to the mass airflow sensor performance. This is located on top of the engine where the airfilter plastic ductwork attaches. It is sort of the modern replacement for the carburetor - determining how much fuel in relation to the amount of air entering the engine. Problems here probably account for the shaking (rough idle) and surges in engine speed. But more troubleshooting is needed, and these parts can get expensive.
I am lost on the A/C issue, but I guess if it is now working, we need not dwell on it! Pulling the dash to work on 'controlling the gates' probably refers to either the evaporator expansion valve, or the actual air box doors. I am guessing that 'round tube with tiny wires' is either the condensor or evaporator? Still not sure what a degreaser would do here, but hey, go with it....
Other leaks and belts really depend on how bad is bad - you need to find someone local you trust to look at these, plus the idle situation.
Steve
-juice
They probably reported to you that the code was P0327 / P0328 (knock sensor voltage low / high), then cleared the code, turning off the light. But it sounds like a low level, intermittant problem, so it periodically returns. OBDII is set up such that the CEL/MIL light will turn off at the beginning of the 4th drive cycle for intermittant problems. But it sounds like it keeps reoccuring, so the light returns. Problem is, however, that the incident is stored in memory for 40 cycles, so no, you will not pass inspection if they connect and read it out.
Higher octane fuel reduces the tendency to knock, so you 'fly under the radar' of the computers watchful eye for a longer period of time.
So probably, you do need a knock sensor. But computers can be fooled, so there is always the maybe that the problem could be in the wiring harness, or other system signal that bleeds into this input path.
It looks a little tricky to get at (tucked under the intake manifold towards the rear of the engine on the drives side), but yes, you should be able to do it yourself. One bolt holding the black ring down, one wire, if I remember correctly.
As I said, no, it is unlikely that you will pass inspection if it is reoccuring this frequently. And yes, it sounds like a somewhat soft, but persistant problem - it is certainly not a constant, continuous failure.
Steve
Wondering if anyone else's 2005 Forester has the same damage.
BTW, I did show the damage to the service manager at Wentworth Subaru (Portland, OR). She took photos of the problem and said she would send the report somewhere.
Trish
83,000 miles
Symptoms...
1) Check Engine Light came on
2) Car lagged when starting up in the morning, would take about a block to get up and drive right
3) Took it to my mechanic and diagnosistic was for the Knock Sensor
Attempted Solution...
1) Knock sensor replaced
2) Mechanic noticed a wire that was not connected to the knock sensor so he replaced it
3) Car drove worse and then appeared to go into a safety default.
4) Mechanic has had the car for 2 weeks. Finally gave up today and told me to take it to the Subaru dealer. He thinks the computer is messed up.
I have an appointment with the dealer for next week.
Any thoughts about this???
Same symptoms as last year - add some antifreeze every so often, never much, probably a pint a year. Nothing on the ground. Just smells to high heaven. I had it on ramps and took off the undershield. The only think I can see is some whitish residue on the bottom radiator hose clamp, but no seepage. Can't tell if the residue is normal corrosion or not.
Its annoying, but not the end of the world. The smell does seem to be localized to the driver's side front of the engine. The system has been pressure tested by the dealer, so they said, with no problem found.
All ideas welcome. So far, I'm considering just changing the bottom hose and clamp myself. Just need to be real careful as there are lots of cats / dogs in the neighborhood, so I need to make sure I recover all the coolant that comes out.
TIA
Larry
I know when I changed the filters in the OBW and the XT for the first time, I didn't have any trouble with the hoses.
Any thoughts?
Larry
From the very start with this car (it now has 2400 miles on it) it has given off an unpleasant smell if the clutch is slipped the least bit. I've always used the clutch very carefully and the car has in no way been abused.
I'm mystified by this and surprised not to have found complaints on Edmunds Subaru forums, other than yours.
Does anyone know of this problem? Obviously I'm going to contact the dealer tomorrow but I'm wondering if it's a know problem and/or whether there is a TSB out on it.
Thanks,
Once I replace the fuse or reconnect the battery the lights are on regardless of fact that I have the light switch in the off position.
Has anyone run into this?
Be happy it's not like the Miata, though. That filter is on the under side, it's hard to get to and you tend to get fuel spilled in your face.
-juice
Help us out a little by telling the model and year? There was a recall, IIRC, on some late '90's models for an alternator problem.
Steve
I have a 2001 Subaru Forester with 67900 miles.
I've been noticing for the past week a strange noise coming from the back of the car. I don't know how to describe it, but it occurs pretty regularly and only for 30 seconds or so at a time. There's no apparent pattern as to how I'm driving it, affecting whether the noise is there or not.
Anyone have any idea what this could be?
I was a bit disappointed that a Stellar Dealer would not provide loaner cars to Gold customers, but they did at least provide transportation to and from work. The 'retail' cost of the diagnosis and part was around $400, so I am half way to break even on the cost of the extended warranty.
Steve
Change the rear diffy fluid to see if that quiets things, it's easy, one quart of 75w90 gear oil and just two bolts. Make sure you remove the top one first.
-juice
Is this an urgent problem to fix? I'm one of those crazy drivers that put about 30,000 miles a year.
I just got the 67,500 maintenance done on the car, they didn't catch anything. I wonder if my warrantee will pick up the bill for the work, what do you think? running a little low on cash at the moment
-juice
If it's a bearing you're out $10.
-juice
It's for a Miata but it's almost exactly the same on a Subaru. I did it myself for the first time using these tips and it was a piece of cake.
Check if you have metal shavings to tell you the condition of the rear diff. If you get shavings and/or the oil is empty it's probably damaged.
-juice
My thanks to you, Swampy. I knew I was over thinking this.
I live in the Northeast and currently drive a 2003 RAV 4 L on lease which expires in December. With gas prices going up, I want something with better miles per gallon than the 24 I am averaging with the RAV 4.
What do owners truly average in the Impreza mpg?
Scooby has instructions and pix. Subaru oil filters are made by Purolator mylocal Pepboys carries it. Or you can buy on-line. I use 1stsubaruparts.com
Jim
Subaru Crew: MPG-Real World Numbers
Jim
Sorry, I couldn't get it to paste as a link.
Like you, I am a long time Toyota buyer living in the NE. 4 years ago I changed brands, purchasing an Outback wagon for it's AWD capability, and because Toyota abandoned the conventional wagon market in favor of SUVs (Matrix introduced later). While my ownership experience has been great overall, I would have to still give a slight nod to Toyota for reliability, but fun to drive / control to Subaru. You won't go too far wrong with either product.
Steve
-Dan-
joeb24: for the H6 premium is just recommended. I'd guess you'll give up maybe 5hp or so, and make 245hp, which is still plenty.
'96 is way out of warranty, so I'd shop around for price, just ask if they use OE parts.
-juice
the manual transmission's viscous coupler will lose effectiveness somewhere in that realm of (very) high mileage but it probably won't seize, making replacement more of a 'should' than a 'must'. around $1000 is probably about right if you bought a new part and had it installed at a dealer.
if you bought a used one from a salvage yard and installed it yourself, I'd say under $250 is easily within reach.
~Colin
I'm aware of subaru making stronger, wider width gears since 2003, but the synchros are the main issues for me besides lousy paint, as both would be quite expensive to fix and should be more durable than they are. I've traced some of the tranny problems down to the fact that the manual transmission has only weaker single cone synchros and was originally designed 30 years ago.
To this end, who has a lot of mileage on a newer turbo subaru w/ manual tranny and what kind of repairs were needed?
What about the chintzy body panels and poor paint quality issues - who's experienced these?
For the pinging I would consider a throttle-body service. Our 626 was down on power and even hesitating, and that service cleared it right up.
robotb9: try this place:
http://www.fsautoparts.com/
-juice
If it's replacing the pads, how much work is that going to be to do on my own?
John
You may need a 6" C clamp to push the pistons back in for clearance. I usually do this using the old pad so I don't scar the new one.
Also, keep an eye on the brake fluid level so you don't overtop the reservoir. You may need to bleed some off (do this after you install the first side and always with the caliper and new pads on the rotor.)
I suggest that you ask someone in the know to look over your shoulder. Also, get a manual for your car so that any Subie specific issues are clearer --for example, how to adjust the hillholder if you have a manual tranny).
If you have any scoring on the rotor, I suggest that you purchase new rotors (you will need to do matching on the same axles).
Some like to resurface the rotors every time (esp. brake shops), some will do new pads only. I have done both. Resurfacing gives you better performance and longevity on the new pads. But, it can encourage warped rotors too.
HTH, John
Cover - my '98 had that cover. Weird about the '04 filter. They did change, but I'd expect them to stock it. You could just bring your own and still have them do it, maybe for a couple bucks less since you're providing some of the materials?
-juice
Does anyone have the details on this (tubes, fittings, psi recommendations.....)?
This is one of my tasks for my week off next week and I though I'd give this technique a try.
Thanks,
Alan
98 OBW Ltd