Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

fibber2

Sorry, Alan, but it wasn't me. Sounds like an interesting way to drive out the old fluid quickly, though. Post more if you find it!

Steve

jfl

I don't recall reading that...but then, I wouldn't really trust my memory either.

I'd strongly recommend spending a few bucks on a manual pump from the car parts place. That worked fine pumping gear oil into the diffy. A very long stemed funnel got the oil into the tranny.

Just the thought of air pressure and oil scares me. If the hose pops out, the time you will spend cleaning will waaaay over shadow the time you save.

My $0.02.

Jim

BTW - That pump also worked fine removing a bit of oil from the tranny. The Shop Manual of my 2000 Legacy gave the wrong amount for the tranny. (The Owner's Manual was correct.) I ended up needing to remove almost half a liter.

ateixeira

http://www.miata.net/garage/trans/11.htm

-juice

amsbear

Steve & Jim,

Thanks for the responses, maybe I read this from another board :confuse:.

The draining of the old gear oil would be the same, just warm it up a bit so it flows better and drain.

The way I recall it, tubing would be connected to the dispensing side of the gear oil bottle with the other end going to the AT filler tube (with a clip to keep things in place). Invert the bottle and cut a 1/4 inch or so diameter hole in the bottom of the bottle. Use compressed air through a normal air blower gun using a rubber tip to maintain a good seal at the hole in bottle.

I do have the pump from when I did this around the 60k mile mark. As a matter of fact, I still have a 1/2 quart left over from that operation and should do a test drive of this into a waste container.

I'll slowly dial up the pressure so that I don't get the out of control garden hose effect, splattering gear oil all over my garage walls :surprise: .

Alan
98 OBW Ltd

amsbear

I'll probably use my pump for the rear diffy since there is less room to operate under the car and the fill quantity is fairly small.

I just remember it being fairly tough pumping due to the thickness of the oil. This was during the fall/winter so maybe leaving the bottle(s) out in the sun to warm up a bit will make it go easier. Nix the compressor idea .

Alan
98 OBW Ltd

ateixeira

From below, you can pump it up. Yes, it's thick, especially when cold. Do it now, in the summer. Gear oil stinks to the high heavens, too.

From above, run tubing and use a funnel and you can pour it down. That's harder to see when you get it full, though.

That pic is for a miata's manual trans and front diff, Subaru's MT5 models are not much different, though. AT is of course.

-juice

sonja2

To follow up, I called the manager of the Automotive Dept of Wal-mart and he confirmed what the other employee told me, "we don't stock the oil filter for the 2004 Subaru Forrester." Maybe it is the hassle of removing the plastic cover/housing. I then considered changing the oil myself but honestly, having to go out and find some blocks or something to raise the car, then buying a wrench to remove the filter, etc. and flat getting dirty not to mention breaking a nail made me reconsider. I then drove the car to Sears where I was told that the oil change would be done "in an hour or less." So I left the car with Sears and walked to Barnes and Noble where I read for an hour and came back to Sears - only to find that they hadn't touched the car after having it for 65 minutes. Not wanting to support such incompetence, I got my key and my car back and kept my money. I once again crawled under my car to consider changing the oil myself. Then a friend gave me a coupon for $5 off at Jiffy-Lube where I took the car and had the oil changed in less than 20 minutes, including having them show me exactly how they removed the old filter and drained the oil, etc. Plus they vacuumed the entire vehicle. So for less than $28, I got the job done in 20 minutes. And yes, one more thing, before going to Jiffy Lube, I called the Subaru dealer and asked for an appointment this afternoon but was told they couldn't give me an appointment until sometime next week. Are they kidding?? I couldn't wait until next week. Sheesh..... Anyway, I'm now a happy Jiffy Lube camper but still a little disappointed that Walmart isn't willing to do the job while I shop at their store.... It was so convenient to do that for the three times before they stopped. I'm clean, and have all my finger nails. Thanks for your comments.

ateixeira

At least you had a happy ending.

-juice

sonja2

The nice folks at Jiffy Lube showed me on their computer screen that Subaru recommends a transmission servicing each 15,000 miles. They showed a price "starting at $89.95." I've never heard of changing automatic transmission fluid every 15k miles. Is it really necessary?

ateixeira

That might be for the extreme schedule. I'd do it every 30k miles. They replace the ATF. The stuff does wear out.

-juice

aviatorvisa

I used to visit my friendly neighborhood Subaru dealer to get my oil change (I had some bad experiences with the quicky lube places) until last year when the mechanics went on strike. I found I could easily crawl under my 2001 OB and change the oil in my driveway, I didn't need blocks or jacks or ramps to lift the car. Also, the plastic cover/splash guard was easily removed. Best thing is the satisfaction of doing it myself (yes, I am easily amused).

once_for_all

Mobil 1 in my new cars, and it is like pulling teeth and very expensive to get the quicky lube and dealers to use it. So I do it myself.

John

jfl

juice,

That's pretty much like the pump I have. Sized to screw onto "consumer" gear oil bottles but didn't fit the synthetic oil bottle.

What is that red stuff being pumped? Looks more like ATF than stinky gear oil.

Jim

ateixeira

Synthetic gear oil, though, I think.

-juice

ateixeira

Not hard and very satisfying. No dealer has ever service my Forester or my Miata. They did half the changes on my wife's Legacy only because it was free.

-juice

cloudiness

hello all. i'm new here.

i recently purchased a used 1997 impreza outback sport. there's a problem with the brake light fuse: it keeps going out almost immediately after replacing it. the car is at the dealer right now, but so far they can't figure out the problem. any ideas?

thanks.

once_for_all

dead short somewhere. They just have to find it. Isolate wires and start checking for ground and continuity.

John

jfl

I don't think so...I use Redline gear oils and I don't remember them looking like that! :shades:

Which reminds me, it's time to change my gear oils.

Jim

jbeckr

Hi everybody -

2003 Forester XS. Sometimes when we first start it up, and more often lately, the engine will run very rough, sputter, and have dark black exhaust. It will continue to run, but not well. IF I turn it off and re-start, it usually runs ok, just like normal. Have taken it to dealer twice and they could not recreate the problem. Anyone else experience this? Our warranty is almost expired.

once_for_all

sticking choke. But I don't think the new cars use a choke plate anymore.

No ideas, my '03 with 38K is still running beautifully, averaging 27-28 mpg. Will need new tires next year at about 55k.

John

fibber2

But I don't think the new cars use a choke plate anymore.

True, they don't. On fuel injected cars, it was first replaced by an extra fuel injector (called the cold start valve), but today is just a rich program cycle applied to the regular port injectors. But I agree, the concept, and the symptoms described sound along those lines (overly rich mixture).

Once the engine is warmed up, OBDII is in closed loop mode and uses the forward O2 sensor as a feedback and regulator of mixture. When cold, the system runs open loop, and uses preprogrammed maps along with a few basic sensors to regulate mixture. Sounds like the temp, or throttle position sensor might be faulty, and is calling up the wrong data from the computer. But that is just a guess...

Steve

subarunogood

I have a 2002 Impreza wagon 2.5 TS. Just went through he same problem at 92k kms (just below 60k miles). First showed up at 87k kms, mostly when conditions were humid. At 87 k kms, Subaru dealership came back with no problem, brakes in very good condition. At 92k kms, Subaru dealership came back with a seized front passenger side brake calliper. My extended warranty (purchased one at 60 k kms because I had so many problems with the car) covered the calliper, but now I also had to replace the rotors and brake pads at my cost which were at 87 k kms apparently very good. $600 CDN for rotors and brake pads... total rip-off! It's easy to see that the seized calliper caused the pads to ware out on that side...I've got one pad worn out at an angle that there is 1.5 mm of brake material at one end and 4 mm at the other. To make mathers even worst, Subaru Canada was out of callipers and my car was off the road for 2 WEEKS! If rust is the issue here since I'm in Ottawa Canada with all the salt on the road in winter, you would think that the dealership would stock these! Get your machanic to do a brake service on the car to see if a calliper is seizing up! :mad:

subarunogood

I don't have a WRX, but I have a 2002 Impreza wagon 2.5 TS, manual transmission, 95k kms. I've got synchro issues with the first gear currently. I've I stop on a hill and move back a 6" or more, 1 out of 2 times, I get a loud crunching noise when I go back into first as if I don't have my foot on the clutch pedal. Supposed to get this fixed on warranty, but the dealership is dithering and giving me the "if you have broken teath on your gears, the original car warranty will not cover the work". I've had the clutch changed at 40k kms and at 52k kms already on warranty. I also have had an engaging issue with the 2nd gear since 40 k kms but the dealership considers this minor!

Speaking to people with WRX's around here in Ottawa, Canada, I've heard the same story that I have above!

AS for paint...I almost think they use latex indoor house paint on these cars! I've got close to 100 chips on the hood...salt and sand from winter probably but still does not excuse the fact that the paint is very very low quality. My girlfriend wrote "wash me" on the back tailgate last winter when the car was covered in salt and road dust and it actually scrashed into the paint faintly...this was writting with a finger tip!

The body panels are also flimsy and easy to dent! I've got battle wounds from parking lots to show all over the place on the car. Someone backed up into my front driver side fender a few years ago with a Toyota Camry. My fender is all bent up and the only damage on the other car was a paint mark on the side of the rear bumper which came off!

barriostkd

The other day the tail lights of my '04 WRX sedan stopped working. I checked the fuse if it was blown, but it was still ok. So I figured I'd check the tail light bulbs, but those still looked ok too. I'm thinking it must be some electrical problem. Now my other option is to take it to Subaru unless any of you guys have a better suggestion. I'd really rather not take it back to Subaru for service because they're going to charge $120 as a diagnostic fee since I'm already out of my warranty period. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

JB

andrey20910

I have Forester 03. About 34800 miles. The CD/radio on was repaired 2 times. (old radio was replaced with the new one) Now it's broken again. (Like a computer: freezes and play the same radio station even when the car is off)
The warranty will expire at 36K miles. I am going to the same dealership to repair it. But it seams that it will break soon again. Please, share any ideas on what can I do.

Sincerely,
Andrey

ateixeira

You can try resetting the ECU when it happens.

Colin said something about this in another thread, but I forget was his suggestion was.

Colin - you out there?

-juice

amsbear

Changed mine today, front and rear, no problems. I didn't even use the pump since with todays heat the gunk flowed nicely with just a fill tube and squeezing the bottle. My pump didn't fit onto the bottles either, which disuaded me from using it even more so.

I think when I did this last, it was more like 55F instead of 85F and the flow characteristics were much more like molasses (though I wish it smelled like it instead).

Alan
98 OBW Ltd (103000 miles)

boing

Hi Cloudiness.. I'm also new here. The problem that you have is generally a bad brake switch (above the brake pedal).. and I'd check that first . 2nd I'd take a look at the connections right at the brake lights and make sure the grounds are good and there are no broken wires. Could you email me when you find out what they found out at the dealer? just email me at jndoe@theofficenet.com Thanks, boing

misterpincher

I test drove an Outback Sport over the weekend and it had it's check engine light flashing on. The saleman told me that is normal and they all do that until they are reset? Is that really part of the dealer prep?

ateixeira

No, that is not normal. In fact the owner's manual tells you to pull over and call roadside assistance. A blinking light is bad news. A solid light it just a warning.

Folks - make sure to share your tips here, that's the whole point of a forum. Don't keep these solution private, it defeats the purpose!

-juice

damish003

Believe it or not, but yes. Part of dealer prep, if they just got it in. Don't worry about it.

-Dan-

p.s. If the car's been through prep, then Juice is of course correct. As to why the CEL light flashes when it's just off the truck, I have no idea. I visited my dealer just as a new load came in, and ALL of the cars had flashing CEL's. I'm surprised the dealer let you drive the car without explaining it first, though.

ateixeira

I stand corrected. Never saw a pre-prepped car I guess!

-juice

sonja2

It bugs me how, on Subarus and Toyotas, the lighted dials on the radio as well as the clock go dark when I have my headlights on. I have to rely on my memory to click the right pre-set button on the radio when I'm driving with the headlights on. Is there a way to keep the lights on even when I have the headlights on? (Sorry if I'm supposed to be calling them the "headlamps." Where I come from, they're headlights. Thanks for your in-"sights."

kdshapiro

Do they go off or do they dim? Have you set the instrument cluster intensity dial up all the way? My radio has a feature where you press the on-off button for a second or two and the display returns to the brightest setting.

paulsgt

In the past few months (4-5) my 2001 OB LLB - 87K miles has developed a gear whine when accelerating. Took it to the dealer today and they say the pinion bearings need to be replaced. They reccomend replacing the entire transaxle. Mechanic says they see one every month or so(!)
Any one else here had this experience? What did you do?

Comments?

locke2c

throttle position won't do this, but water and manifold temp sensors can. idle air control motor can do it too.

it might not be reproduceable right now because it's too warm...

~Colin

ateixeira

The clock dims, but it's still on. You can barely see it.

Some models, like my wife's 02 Legacy, has a clock in the dash display. But then only the driver can see it.

Paul - I don't think that's common, at least I have not observed that problem reported here on Edmunds.

Have you ever changed the fluid? 87k miles would be well overdue. Some change every 15k miles, but I'd do it every 30k at least. 60k absolute limit. By then the fluid is spent.

My Miata had 26k miles and I went to change the differential fluid (75w90 gear oil), it came out looking like melted chocolate. Totally spent. To be fair it was 8 years old, but look at the low mileage!

-juice

ateixeira

How expensive would those repaires be? And which would you try first?

Just curious. Sounds like he might spend a bit to figure out what's causing the rough idle.

-juice

snowbelter

A year or so back there were several reports of "whining' in the differential which was traced to the pinion gears. I remember reading postings from one or two people whose pinion gears Subaru replaced under warranty. Later there were one or two comments from people whose differentials "whined" but were told that the pinion gear noise was "normal". Try doing a word search on these Forum listing "pinion gear" to see if you find the posts. Martin

locke2c

the temp sensors should be under $100 each and should not be more than 30 min labor.

the IAC motor would be more, maybe $150-200, and 45ish min labor.

even if it's out of warranty these are not costly repairs, but sure, he should get them done under warranty if possible.

~Colin

dinosaur

EVERY car I've owned has experienced warped rotors. My daily drive is very hilly and curvy. Even with careful downshifring the manual transimission, I've had it happen with Toyota, Honda, Subaru and Mitsubishi. Pretty much a "cost of living" around here. I always warp rotors (sometimes even wear them out) long before any pads need replaced.

edunnett

My 2001 Forester had the rear diff replaced at around 40K miles. I hadn't noticed any noise that I traced back to the diff, and had the fluid replaced on schedule at 30K. The only precipitating symptom of the bad diff was an unrelated "popping" noise upon shifting and accelerating (turned out to be a "normal" noise with most of the manual transmissions and has to do with the exhaust air flow). It was unrelated but gave the dealer a reason to check the diff. They reported that there was a seal leaking grease into the diff fluid. I wish I had more details for you but don't.
Elissa

paulette2

I am in the process of buying a new vehicle and the Subaru Forester is perfect for my needs, but I can't afford a new one. After much searching I found a 1998 Subaru Forester with only 75,000kms, one owner, and my search seemed over. However, when I took it to my mechanic to check it over. IT HAD NO OIL. It took almost 3 litres of oil to fill. No apparent leak, and after filling it I drove it for a week, and it doesn't appear to be burning oil. The mechanic told me to walk away. I really love the vehicle and the price is good. The dealer was very apologetic and assures me that this was an oversight when the oil was changed and that the engine is fine.

ANY ADVICE! WOULD YOU BUY IT FOR $10,000???????? OR SHOULD I GET MY MONEY BACK? HELP PLEASE!

ateixeira

They may indeed have just botched the oil change right before you bought it, i.e. forgot to fill it up with oil. Question is, did they ever run the engine with no oil in it? For more than just a few seconds?

Was it towed to your mechanic, or did you drive it?

If you drove it with no oil at all, then I'd return the vehicle.

Other possibilities: leaky head gaskets. Look at the engine block for oil stains.

At least get a warranty from the dealer in writing, valid for long enough to see if it's running OK and if it burns/leaks oil.

-juice

once_for_all

"took it to the mechanic" when it was short 3 liters of oil. I don't know the capacity of the 98' engine, the SOHC engine takes 4.5 qts with the filter. So I am guessing that it had about 1.25 qts in it when it was driven?

And no oil light?

If the oil light never came on, it is probably ok. But it surprises me that it would go without the light coming on (eg loss of pressure).

John

xwesx

I agree with juice. "At least get a warranty from the dealer in writing, valid for long enough to see if it's running OK and if it burns/leaks oil. "

I would request a 6 month warranty from the dealer in writing stating that if the engine siezes, there are severe oil leaks, etc., the dealer will foot repair bills, exchange the car, etc. If the dealer is confident that there is not a problem, then it should extend you this warranty; if the dealer refuses, I'd dump the car just to avoid the long-term headache you may have just purchased.

It may seem like a long shot that something will go drastically wrong, but the language the dealer speaks is $. I inherited several problems with my Subaru that the dealer assured me weren't there, and yet this dealer offers great customer service 99% of the time...... :mad:

Just be careful and protect yourself! If you let your emotions get the best of you..... :lemon: There are a lot of Foresters out there; if you "love" this one, you'll love another one.

cloudiness

the dealer has told me that i have a wiring short in my brake light circuit and another one in my windshield wiper circuit. my question is, what is it that may have caused these shorts in the first place? should i be worried about a larger electrical problem behind these shorts?

also, they tell me the rear O2 sensor needs replacing ($266). is it worth it to get it done or can/should i live without it?

'97 impreza OBS

fibber2

Saw your post on the 29th about brake light shorts. Now windshield wipers also? Hmmm. Only logical place where lighting and wipers come together is in the steering column combination switch, but even that is a long shot. It would be more understandable if it involved the running lights... not sure if the brake light power goes thru this junction as well. Really need to get a hold of the wiring diagram for your model to figure out a place to start. Could be something in the wiring loom, and where it routes behind the dash, under carpeting, etc., and is getting chaffed.

Rear O2 sensor doesn't play directly into fuel trim. Front O2 sensor does that job. The rear is basically just a monitor of how efficient the cat con is operating. Technically, you could probably let it go if your state does not check OBDII compliance at inspection time. If they plug in and read out the codes, you will fail.

Steve

ateixeira

You can usually find a Bosch O2 sensor for about $70-80. Since you are out of warranty anyway, I'd use one of those.

I have replaced these on my cars at 60k miles anyway, so you were probably due.

Make sure your cowl is clean, i.e. remove leaves and debris each time you wash the car to avoid build ups in the area of the wipers.

-juice

rangner

Hey I'm getting close to an oil change on my 00 OBW with 73k on it. What viscosity do you guys run for summer? 5W-30 as the manual calls for, or 10w-30 or a blend of the two?

Thanks

Eric