Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

kens

Steve,

I think their bashing was very well deserved. Sheez....

I recall you didn't have much choice for dealerships where you are, right?

Ken

rubyru

We just took our 97 legacy outback into the shop because the CEL was flashing and it was misfiring horribly. Prior to this, the CEL had come on intermittently (but not flashing) -- this would usually happen when it had just warmed up and had reached the top of the hill (we live at the bottom). Then the other evening we were cruising along on the highway having just climbed a hill at 60mph and the CEL started flashing. We pulled over immediately, checked the oil and water which were both ok. We called our shop to see if we should have it towed or drive it in. They said to drive it in the few miles, and the CEL flashed pretty much the whole way.

They found that the #4 cylinder has about 50lbs compression (I guess it is supposed to have about 150lbs). So far, they've taken off the head cover to have a closer look (and apparently the head cover gaskets were leaking) but they're not sure yet what is causing the low compression. Any ideas?

Some recent work done (may or may not be related) -- replaced speedometer control (not sure if I have the correct name) and the idle control valve. It was last tuned up 6 months ago (~10,000 miles).

Thanks for any suggestions.
--Rachel

fotodik

Hi All,
I'd really appreciate some feedback on my situation. I bought an '05 LLBean in July of '04
about 6 months ago it stated to shutter. dealer said I had a bad coil pack. the shuttering continued, took back to dealer 5 times. They said carbon build up and used injector cleaner. Finally contacted Subaru and complained. Dealer took engine apart and put in new intake valves. got car back, no power & poor mileage. Got regional rep to go for ride,
he agreed, said timing was off. dealer fixed, car still doesn't run quite right, and I'm only averaging 14.2 mpg. Please make some suggestions. I like my car but I'm really losing my confidence in Subaru.

ateixeira

Sounds like they are trying, at least.

Call 800-SUBARU3 and see if they can help you exchange cars for something similar. They might be able to help you out in that regard.

As someone who troubleshoots problems for a living, I know how they feel.

-juice

xwesx

I agree with juice on this one. Without the help of the ECU, it can be a nightmare troubleshooting such problems. From the seat of my pants, I'd have a closer look at the vacuum system to ensure everything is in order - with the poor mileage, rough idle, low power and no CEL that seems like a good start. That system can go rather haywire without tripping any codes to illuminate the CEL. I suppose the timing *could* be off, but unless the belt was not aligned properly, it is not a likely scenario since it is electronically controlled. I suppose a bad ECU is possible, but......

Another couple of diagnosis tries, and I would go for a replacement. I have no doubt you will find this to be an isolated occurence.

Good luck and remember that they really are trying!

xwesx

My first guess would be a stuck valve considering that misfiring is taking place. Low compression in and of itself can be indicative of several problems, so let them take a look at it and see what they can see, then report back! The fact that it was sudden and severe coupled with the coolant and oil looking fine would lead me to believe that it is NOT a head gasket issue (wow... is it even possible?? ), but it needs further diagnosis.

sodakjones

i have a 2000 outback and when i take my foot off the gass during intown deiving it fells like the brakes are slightly on for a moment. if i shift it into Nutral this goes away. any idea what migh cause this? I am also getting bad gass milage. in the mid teens with a 2.5 and i do not rod on it. i barley tough the gass when accelerating. any insight would be nice. i just bought this car 3 weeks ago and love it but want to know what might be wrong so i can fix it.

ateixeira

Is it more than just the normal engine braking? Is it holding a lower gear, like when you're going down hill and it's trying to slow you down? Or is it all the time?

-juice

samiam_68

Make sure you shift it to "Drive", not "3". It's very easy to shift into the wrong gear in these cars because the "gated" shifter is very poorly designed.

fotodik

Thanks for the word of encouragement. Do I really stand a chance of an exchange with almost 40K miles.

Thanks,

Roy

ateixeira

Wow, that's a lot more than I thought. That makes it tougher.

Call to speak to them. See if you get a sympathetic ear. Maybe they can at least send a regional tech out to your dealer to help try and resolve this once and for all.

-juice

joeb24

Hello Karl,

I just ordered the Nokian WR tires for my 06 Outback LL Bean. Apparently there are two types of WRs, one for passenger cars, and one for SUV's/light trucks. The WRs for passenger cars do not come in the 225/55 R17 size, while the WRs for SUVs do. The load rating/speed rating on these tires is 101V, while the original equipment tire is 95V; so the WRs are rated about 300 more pounds per tire. Does the higher load rating translate into a stiffer sidewall? That is why I was concerned about a harsher ride. I paid $120 per tire plus $36 for shipping. Balancing and mounting will be extra.

zman3

Does the higher load rating translate into a stiffer sidewall? That is why I was concerned about a harsher ride. I paid $120 per tire plus $36 for shipping. Balancing and mounting will be extra.

I only had my OEM tires on for about a week, so I can't really make comparisons. I assume the sidewall is stiffer due to the higher load rating but I don't proclaim to be a tire expert. I'm sure someone else can comment.

I am very satisfied with the ride. I do not consider it harsh at all, but you may have a different opinion than myself.

I bought the stock size 225/55 R17, so I must have the same tires you ordered. I honestly did not pay any attention to the load rating, just that they were V speed rated.

You're going to make me cry, but where did you buy them for that price? Even if someone charges you $20 to mount and balance each one that is still a heck of a buy. I spent $180 mounted and balanced.

Karl

domit

I´m using a subaru 2.5l engine in a gyro plane. My problem is that every time I close the ignition SW. off. The main relay stays on. the only way I can turn it off. is by disconnecting the battery. I imagen that may be has to do with the TEST connectors or something like that.

Does any one has an idea of what is going on.

Thank you
Antonio Domit

joeb24

I bought the Nokian tires from K & M Tires, Richmand VA, 1-800-229-4335 (a tire wholesaler). I got their name from the "dealer locator" on the Nokian Tire web site (www.nokiantires.com). I live in northern VA, and, with the shipping ($10. per tire), mounting ($25 per tire), and balancing ($10. per tire), it will probably cost me about $165 per tire. So, don't feel so bad.

I will leave the Nokian tires on year round, so I will be looking to sell the OEM Bridgestone Potenza RE92A tires (with 7600 miles on them), probably on ebay or elsewhere.

ateixeira

Sorry, no idea, but I'd love to see a pic of that project. I'll even host them for you...

-juice

rsunico

My 99 Forester, with 37,000 is having constant CEL issues. Months ago it turned out and the gas gauge dropped to empty. That was the first time - dealer replaced fuel gauge sensors. 2 months later CEL always came on.. always same code FUEL CAP. A week ago my dealer replaced the fuel pressure sensor ($700 repair). This week CEL is back on.. same code FUEL CAP. Questions: 1) Any suggestins? 2) Should dealer refund cost of new repair from what I have already paid (they assured me last time that changing the Pressure Sensor will fix the problem). It seems NOT! BTW I filled up with gas last week and I made sure it was on correctly. Have driven it days since last fill up with no CEL light until 5 days after last fill. Any advise.. would help me!

lakepop

OK.....I'll ask the obvious......did you REPLACE the fuel cap ?

The problem is clearly in the emissions area....so go thru that.....cap/cannister....etc.

And , YES I'd say you have a case for going back to the dealer for an adjustment of charges that did not solve the problem.

Good luck and keep us posted.

ateixeira

I thought the same thing - the cap itself may be bad.

Call 800-SUBARU3 and tell them what you've spent so far. You are just, just barely out of warranty, so maybe they can help out a bit.

-juice

95gl

My right tail and brake light is out on my 2002 Forester. Both lights on the rear hatch and the pillar. Tried the obvious and replaced the bulb. The old one looked fine but replaced it anyway. We checked all of the connectors in the access panels.

Any ideas? Oh - and Happy New Year!

jfl

It's a long shot...but a fuse?

Jim

rsunico

Its not the cap. First thing I did was replace the fuel cap.. I even had them test the new fuel cap and its fine.

yariv

hi all,
during the past couple of weeks, i encounter a problem in my forester turbo. there is a signal of a problem in my dashboard (looks like an angine, located in the right side of my dashboard). unfortunately, in the manual i have there is no indication (or "what to do") of it.
any assistance would be great.

thanks, yariv

samiam_68

That's the "check engine" light. First, check to make sure the gas cap is on tight (at least 3 clicks). If tightening it makes the indicator go out after a few days, problem solved. Otherwise, take it to a dealer or an auto parts store to get a diagnostic readout.

ateixeira

Sounds like it's new and under warranty, so visit the dealer to address that. You'll want the CEL code on record at the dealer in case the issue creeps up again.

-juice

95gl

But its only on one side. The blinker on that side still works. The fuse would be both tail lights at the very least wouldn't it?

jfl

I'm not sure and I'm too lazy to run down to the cold garage to check.

Sometimes, critical lights are intentionally set on different circuits to avoid a total failure when a fuse blows. I know my previous cars had different circuits for the headlights.

Jim

starkjim

My '99 Forester (automatic transmision) sits in NEUTRAL when shifter is placed in DRIVE. Sometimes it lasts only a few seconds, sometimes several minutes. Same is true for 1,2,& 3 low gears. Reverse works fine. There is no hesitation once the car "bumps" itself into gear.

Does this sound familiar to anybody? :confuse: ">

samiam_68

You can try power-flushing the tranny. Also, the linkage may need adjustment.

dstew1

Lately I have been having a problem with my fuel tank. I am aware that Subaru warns against pumping more gas into the tank after the pump shuts off automatically, but time after time my tank only fills up 2/3-3/4 before the pump automatically shuts itself off. I'm aware that it's not supposed to be brimming with gas, but nor should I get 3 blocks away to realize that my needle has stopped at 3/4 full.

Is the automatic shutoff a mechanism of the pump itself, or is it caused by the gas tank? I'm assuming proper operation relies on both systems. 90% of the time I fill up at the same exact gas station, around the corner from my house - I have not noticed the problem when filling up at other stations - could it be that they have faulty pumps? Or is it my car? Using the same station, I never noticed such a problem with my Corolla.

Thanks
Doug

c_hunter

I think you answered your own question -- sounds like that particular pump might not get along with your Forester. What year was your Corolla? It might not have had the same fuel evaporative control system newer cars are required to have.

Craig

dstew1

The Corolla was an '01. The Forester is an '06.

jorlando

My 1999 Imprezza hatchback (not Outback) just started making a loud buzzing noise that seems to be coming from underneath the dashboard. It gets higher in pitch and louder as the car picks up speed. The noise is not correlated to the engine speed, but rather the road speed. I’m certain it’s not a wheel bearing. My mechanic can’t figure it out. Any ideas?

Thanks,

John

ateixeira

Some pumps are finicky. Try pumping at a slightly slower rate, i.e. not full speed. That's how I get the finicky ones to cooperate. That gets the tank filled up all the way, too.

John - wheel bearing definitely would have been my first guess, though the fronts don't fail as often as the rears.

Hmm, make sure the differential has oil, it's 75w90 if yours is a MT5, there is a yellow dip stick you can use to check it on the body of the transmission. Might be differential whine.

-juice

leo2633

It's probably that particular pump/nozzle. Try this the next time you get gas at that pump: when the automatic shutoff stops the flow, wait a few seconds, then continue adding more fuel very slowly until it shuts off again. You might find that you can add another 1-2 gallons that way, which should allow you to get the tank close to "full". (FINE PRINT LEGAL DISCLAIMER: Do NOT continue pumping if fuel starts coming back out of the filler neck!)

Len

dstew1

That little trick seems to work in order to get the tank all the way to "full", and I've been able to add as much as 3-4 gallons that way. It seems to be all the pumps at this particular station (12 in total) because I've tried most of them at one point or another.

Given the warning on the fuel door and in the owner's manual that you should not continue pumping after it automatically shuts off, I just worry I might be doing something that could cause some damage. Anyone know if I should be concerned with this? I could always go to a different station, but this one always has the best deal on premium fuel by at least 10-15 cents.

Thanks for all of your responses.
Doug

kev_xt_owner

I've read that the pumps can turn off early if the gas is especially "foamy" so you might consider filling a gas can to see if the gas is foamy.

If the gas is good, consider pumping gas at the lowest speed as I've had better luck getting a more full tank.

Before I start pumping, I usually estimate how many gallons I'll need. That lets me know if I think the pump turned off early.

higgledy

Bought a '06 Forester today. This is my first Subaru. I've been reading a lot about wheel bearing and headgasket problems with these cars. Is there a real problem with bearings, headgaskets on Subarus? Or are the only people posting on the Internet the only people with the problems?

once_for_all

The Foresters are solid since the re-design in 2003. All wheel bearings and head gasket issues have been dealt with. You might occasionally hear about HAL (the autoclimate controls on some models) and piston slap on cold mornings.

Enjoy your Forester, you are likely to get a couple hundred thousand solid miles out of it with care.

John

oneduckstwo

lucky me, i just discovered a HUGE chunk out of the sidewall of my right front tire that in no way can be patched. in fact, the reason i noticed it was b/c i thought i noticed a slight pull and was checking the tire pressure. so i guess i have a common dilemma:

do i replace the one (two?) or am i going to have to buy 4 more? i have yokohama es100s on now with about a year of normal wear. the prospect of all 4 just kills me quite frankly but i don't want to risk damage. the manual is very vague on this. thanks for any thoughts.

higgledy

Can you tell me more about HAl. It seems my auto HVAC never works right.

once_for_all

best just to do a search on this board for "hal", and the Forester XT board. I never use mine because the thought of a blended AC/heater contradicts what I think the world should be.

John

once_for_all

If they are only 1 year old, the best solution is to get a new one and have them "shave" it to the current diameter of your others.

Maybe you have a tire warranty?

John

phastings1

I own a 2002 outback s with roughly 46,ooo miles and I went to use my cruise control the other day and its no longer working. Is this an expensive thing to fix?

higgledy

I saw in the accessories brochure a listing for square crossbars for the roof rack. Why would I need square ones versus the standard bowed crossbars that come with the car?

Has anyone towed with there Forester? If towing under 2500lbs, would I lessen my Forester's life? I'd like to buy a little pop-up camper.

poodog13

do i replace the one (two?) or am i going to have to buy 4 more?

I'd say depends on how worn the other three are. If you think you've got another 20k on the other three tires, I'd say just replace two and keep them in a front/back rotation rather than a 4 way rotation (you can swap across the vehicle when moving front to back to keep as close to even wear as possible). If less than 20k, you're going to need to replace the others soon anyway and the difference in wear will be too much to avoid doing all four now.

fibber2

While I am still not really sure why, Subaru specifically recommends against cross rotation even for tires that have non-directional tread.

AWD has a requirement of no less than 0.25" circumference difference between tires. That equates to a little over 1/32". Therefore, if you have much over 5k or so on the existing tires, you have to shave the new one to match, or replace all 4. While this might seem excessive and expensive, the cost of a center differential is way more....

Steve

once_for_all

square crossbars = hauling plywood and drywall.

They make a great deal of wind noise so you wouldn't want them on full time.

John

higgledy1

Thanks.

Next question: Stereo. I'd like to upgrade the speakers from the standard issue. Are the tweeters and sub-woofer from Subaru worth the money? Or should I get something after market? I like how the sub-woofer fits under the seat.

fibber2

I added the subwoofer & A-pillar tweeter kit to my Outback and am very impressed with the level of improvement over the base system. Well worth the money...

Steve