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Comments
I think their bashing was very well deserved. Sheez....
I recall you didn't have much choice for dealerships where you are, right?
Ken
They found that the #4 cylinder has about 50lbs compression (I guess it is supposed to have about 150lbs). So far, they've taken off the head cover to have a closer look (and apparently the head cover gaskets were leaking) but they're not sure yet what is causing the low compression. Any ideas?
Some recent work done (may or may not be related) -- replaced speedometer control (not sure if I have the correct name) and the idle control valve. It was last tuned up 6 months ago (~10,000 miles).
Thanks for any suggestions.
--Rachel
I'd really appreciate some feedback on my situation. I bought an '05 LLBean in July of '04
about 6 months ago it stated to shutter. dealer said I had a bad coil pack. the shuttering continued, took back to dealer 5 times. They said carbon build up and used injector cleaner. Finally contacted Subaru and complained. Dealer took engine apart and put in new intake valves. got car back, no power & poor mileage. Got regional rep to go for ride,
he agreed, said timing was off. dealer fixed, car still doesn't run quite right, and I'm only averaging 14.2 mpg. Please make some suggestions. I like my car but I'm really losing my confidence in Subaru.
Call 800-SUBARU3 and see if they can help you exchange cars for something similar. They might be able to help you out in that regard.
As someone who troubleshoots problems for a living, I know how they feel.
-juice
Another couple of diagnosis tries, and I would go for a replacement. I have no doubt you will find this to be an isolated occurence.
Good luck and remember that they really are trying!
-juice
Thanks,
Roy
Call to speak to them. See if you get a sympathetic ear. Maybe they can at least send a regional tech out to your dealer to help try and resolve this once and for all.
-juice
I just ordered the Nokian WR tires for my 06 Outback LL Bean. Apparently there are two types of WRs, one for passenger cars, and one for SUV's/light trucks. The WRs for passenger cars do not come in the 225/55 R17 size, while the WRs for SUVs do. The load rating/speed rating on these tires is 101V, while the original equipment tire is 95V; so the WRs are rated about 300 more pounds per tire. Does the higher load rating translate into a stiffer sidewall? That is why I was concerned about a harsher ride. I paid $120 per tire plus $36 for shipping. Balancing and mounting will be extra.
I only had my OEM tires on for about a week, so I can't really make comparisons. I assume the sidewall is stiffer due to the higher load rating but I don't proclaim to be a tire expert. I'm sure someone else can comment.
I am very satisfied with the ride. I do not consider it harsh at all, but you may have a different opinion than myself.
I bought the stock size 225/55 R17, so I must have the same tires you ordered. I honestly did not pay any attention to the load rating, just that they were V speed rated.
You're going to make me cry, but where did you buy them for that price? Even if someone charges you $20 to mount and balance each one that is still a heck of a buy. I spent $180 mounted and balanced.
Karl
Does any one has an idea of what is going on.
Thank you
Antonio Domit
I will leave the Nokian tires on year round, so I will be looking to sell the OEM Bridgestone Potenza RE92A tires (with 7600 miles on them), probably on ebay or elsewhere.
-juice
The problem is clearly in the emissions area....so go thru that.....cap/cannister....etc.
And , YES I'd say you have a case for going back to the dealer for an adjustment of charges that did not solve the problem.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Call 800-SUBARU3 and tell them what you've spent so far. You are just, just barely out of warranty, so maybe they can help out a bit.
-juice
Any ideas? Oh - and Happy New Year!
Jim
during the past couple of weeks, i encounter a problem in my forester turbo. there is a signal of a problem in my dashboard (looks like an angine, located in the right side of my dashboard). unfortunately, in the manual i have there is no indication (or "what to do") of it.
any assistance would be great.
thanks, yariv
-juice
Sometimes, critical lights are intentionally set on different circuits to avoid a total failure when a fuse blows. I know my previous cars had different circuits for the headlights.
Jim
Does this sound familiar to anybody? :confuse: ">
Is the automatic shutoff a mechanism of the pump itself, or is it caused by the gas tank? I'm assuming proper operation relies on both systems. 90% of the time I fill up at the same exact gas station, around the corner from my house - I have not noticed the problem when filling up at other stations - could it be that they have faulty pumps? Or is it my car? Using the same station, I never noticed such a problem with my Corolla.
Thanks
Doug
Craig
Thanks,
John
John - wheel bearing definitely would have been my first guess, though the fronts don't fail as often as the rears.
Hmm, make sure the differential has oil, it's 75w90 if yours is a MT5, there is a yellow dip stick you can use to check it on the body of the transmission. Might be differential whine.
-juice
Len
Given the warning on the fuel door and in the owner's manual that you should not continue pumping after it automatically shuts off, I just worry I might be doing something that could cause some damage. Anyone know if I should be concerned with this? I could always go to a different station, but this one always has the best deal on premium fuel by at least 10-15 cents.
Thanks for all of your responses.
Doug
If the gas is good, consider pumping gas at the lowest speed as I've had better luck getting a more full tank.
Before I start pumping, I usually estimate how many gallons I'll need. That lets me know if I think the pump turned off early.
Enjoy your Forester, you are likely to get a couple hundred thousand solid miles out of it with care.
John
do i replace the one (two?) or am i going to have to buy 4 more? i have yokohama es100s on now with about a year of normal wear. the prospect of all 4 just kills me quite frankly but i don't want to risk damage. the manual is very vague on this. thanks for any thoughts.
John
Maybe you have a tire warranty?
John
Has anyone towed with there Forester? If towing under 2500lbs, would I lessen my Forester's life? I'd like to buy a little pop-up camper.
I'd say depends on how worn the other three are. If you think you've got another 20k on the other three tires, I'd say just replace two and keep them in a front/back rotation rather than a 4 way rotation (you can swap across the vehicle when moving front to back to keep as close to even wear as possible). If less than 20k, you're going to need to replace the others soon anyway and the difference in wear will be too much to avoid doing all four now.
AWD has a requirement of no less than 0.25" circumference difference between tires. That equates to a little over 1/32". Therefore, if you have much over 5k or so on the existing tires, you have to shave the new one to match, or replace all 4. While this might seem excessive and expensive, the cost of a center differential is way more....
Steve
They make a great deal of wind noise so you wouldn't want them on full time.
John
Next question: Stereo. I'd like to upgrade the speakers from the standard issue. Are the tweeters and sub-woofer from Subaru worth the money? Or should I get something after market? I like how the sub-woofer fits under the seat.
Steve