Honda Pilot Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • cccompsoncccompson Member Posts: 2,382
    I offered my thoughts based on the facts you had posted before. The additional details you've now provided rather changes the picture.

    Hope this works out for you. In my experience, one of the good things about Honda is that they do strive to make things right.

    Kindly let us know how this turns out.
  • laurheislaurheis Member Posts: 57
    In California, if you sue under the Lemon Law, the car manufacturer must pay your legal fees. We just went through this with Chrysler. We had our first problem with the Pacifica after only driving 144 miles. The calculation that is used for determining what amount to deduct uses the number of miles that you drove the car before you had the first problem. So for us, the percentage was so incredibly small that we got all of our money back. The only thing we were not reimbursed for was the LoJack. We ended up, a year later, having enough money to buy exactly what we wanted.
  • ckshubinckshubin Member Posts: 39
    Thanks for the info. Very helpful!

    Currently the car is still at the dealer. They called yesterday asking permission for one of the Honda People to drive it home for the evening and see if they could duplicate the problem. Didn't see that I had much of a choice if I want this problem solved. They said they would call me in the morning. It's now 2:45 in the afternoon and I haven't heard from them so i'm thinking 1) they wrecked the car and are afraid to tell me or 2) it actually acted up and the door kept locking so they're trying to figure out what to do next. This dealer has been amazing at keeping me updated and i've never had to call them at all to ask for information so i'm a bit perplexed as to why I haven't heard from them.

    I will try to work with Honda first and have already filed paperwork for a claim for replacement. Only if I don't get anywhere with them will I contact a lemon law lawyer. I just want a replacement car - don't even want the money. I love the car, it works for our family, so I just want another Pilot. Hey, what chance do you think I have of asking for and getting the tow package put on as compensation for my "pain and suffering?"
  • meyervillameyervilla Member Posts: 40
    Does anyone know where we can buy more comfortable replacement front seats for our '04 Pilot in the Phoenix Area? This would not be a problem if we lived in CA; there are lots of custom shops there.
  • mmcmmc Member Posts: 1
    As far as you child being locked in the car, I was just curious if you have checked the auto lock feature by where the (back) door catches when you close it. There is a little white switch that I use to keep my 3-year old from opening the door from the inside. I have it set so I can only open it from outside. It doesn't make the car actually lock, just keeps anyone from opening that one door from the inside. I was just wondering if it behaves differently based on if that is switched to lock or unlock.

    I don't know that i've read all posts related to your problem. If this has already been mentioned, my apologies.
  • tommmmytommmmy Member Posts: 2
    I'm thinking about buying a Pilot, but some of the comments about the seats worry me. I have lower back problems and need plenty of firm support. (I have short legs, so the cushion length might not be a problem. I'm more concerned about lumbar firmness.) I can drive our Lexus GS for hours on end without pain, but don't want an SUV that requires premium, so the MDX is out. What I really need is a "seat review" - a long-term comparison between the Pilot, the 4Runner etc.. Thanks for any advice you can give.
  • sportymonksportymonk Member Posts: 258
    Before you file the paperwork for a replacement vehicle, see if they can fix it. This is a problem but it is not like a rattle that may or not be tracked down. This sounds like a computer glitch that should be fixable by replacing a computer module or sensor.

    As to why they haven't called, remember that your urgency is not theirs and you are just another number in the service department. I usually have to call on my Chevy. I doubt they have wrecked it. A lot of times, service departments wait until the end of the day. It sounds like you have had a good relationship with your dealer.

    As to getting a $900 tow package for compensation, I doubt you will get it. They should be providing a vehicle while yours is in the shop.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    No good answer for you here.

    What pleases the masses won't please everyone. The vast majority of Pilot owners think their seats are just fine but there will always be a few that do not.

    Just like someone else may not find your Lexus seats to be comfortable.
  • cccompsoncccompson Member Posts: 2,382
    I have owned quite a few Hondas and the seat in the Pilot is (except for the cushion being a tad short) the best I've found.

    As isellhondas says, seat comfort is a very individual thing. Spend some serious time in whatever vehicle you are considering just to make sure it works well for you.
  • ckshubinckshubin Member Posts: 39
    Yep. checked that. It's not that he can't get it open like those child locks work. It just relocks so fast after I hit the unlock button that he doesn't even have enough time to pull the handle to open the door!

    BTW: Yes, they are providing me with a Ford Explorer and yes, every single component in that one door has been replaced as well as the driver's side door AND the multi-plex unit - the main brain of the entire electrical system. There is nothing left that they can replace and the techs are saying that it's impossible for one door to lock and unlock without affecting any of the other doors but apparently my car does the impossible.

    Re: them contacting me. I somehow think that if the car did not lock while the person drove it home for the evening they wouldn't keep paying for my rental vehicle for an entire weekend especially if they couldn't duplicate the problem AND since money is always the bottom line in any business they wouldn't. Plus, the dealer's service dept. is open 7 days a week. AND...since they said they would call me on Friday morning and they have done everything they said they would do when they said they would do it so this is out of character for them. So, actually no news is good news. Chances are it did what it's been doing and they are scratching their heads trying to figure out why.

    I've filed papers with Honda Consumer Affairs and they are doing what they do I guess. Overall, minus missing my car, Honda has been great in dealing with me and my problem. I will keep you posted as to what happens.....hopefully soon.
  • pilot seekerpilot seeker Member Posts: 36
    ... my question/dilemma; I just purchased a '05 Honda Pilot with a tow package to include Class 3 hitch, and power steering and auto trans. coolers. 'Honda' rates my (boat) towing max as 4500 lbs/450 tongue weight. I was looking into a Sea Pro 21', but am really interested in a Polar 2100 Walkaround with Yamaha 150 4-stroke....without going into my vehicles 'tow numbers' (GVWR,GCWR,GAWR, etc.) here is my dilemma; boat, motor, and trailer (alum, much lighter), 1/2 tank of fuel and fresh water comes to approx. 5000 lbs.....I know the 'canned' or 'Honda' answer to my question..it's very obvious...but would like to hear a 'real life' answer?..it this 'do-able'? can I go 500 lbs over my max limit?...again, the obvious 'safe' answer is probably no....can anyone give me a 'real life' opinion?...I will be trailering my boat every other weekend or so to Cape Cod (approx 40 miles)..no hills involved, it's a straight shot...50-55 mph will be my 'goal'...help!!!..thanx
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    it isn't some toy or electrical accessory or transmitter? i mean, does this happen at your home but not when you are somewhere else, or does it happen anywhere?
  • ckshubinckshubin Member Posts: 39
    It's just one door, left passengar side. Locks and unlocks whenever it feels like it - regardless of whether the car is running, idling or just plain off. Key doesn't even have to be in the ignition for it to lock/unlock. Sometimes it's intermittent and other times it's possessed and can't decide whether or not it wants to stay locked or unlocked. When we're driving and I lock the car doors for safety just that one door will unlock itself. If the car doors are unlocked it will lock itself - just that one door. It's completely bizarre. Thinking about hiring an exorcist at this point - haa haa haa. It happens anytime, anywhere, under any situation - weather, key fob or valet key, children or adults sitting there. Just plain bizarre! Weird huh? Apparently I have the only car in the ENTIRE United States that is doing this (somehow they number and track these problems to help aid in fixes and recalls). Also, they say it's impossible for one door and one door only to do this without affecting all the other doors...but it does. Pretty puzzling and frustrating at the same time.
  • jay_24jay_24 Member Posts: 536
    Don't do it. Youv'e already added the trailer weight to 5000lbs. What if fuel is full? how about coolers and ice for your food and fish? You also have to subtract towing capacity when adding people and cargo to the Pilot.
    Your also going to tow fairly often.
    Too much weight for a Pilot.

    --jay
  • ckshubinckshubin Member Posts: 39
    I agree with the above.

    When towing you should only tow 75% of the weight limit which for the pilot would be 3750 lbs. That should be the max weight you should pull. If your doing that much towing you might want to look into a vehicle with a higher tow capacity i.e. - toyota 4runner (9100 lbs with a weight distributing hitch and tow package), Sequoia (6500 lbs) etc....
  • sportymonksportymonk Member Posts: 258
    From another area but seems to be more appropriat here.

    Why is the Pilot rated at 4500 pounds for a boat and 3500 everything else. Although there may be an aerodynamic difference, that would show up as the speed you could tow at. Weight is weight. 4500 pound boats are the same as 4500 anything unless you go fast and the aerodynamics of the boat may have some influence.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    exocism - it might be the way to go.

    i dunno - seems to me the locking mechanism is probably driven by a solenoid or solenoids that get their power from a circuit where the switch normally interrupts power from the battery, and when moved, ie pushed up, or down completes a circuit to provide power to the solenoid(s) to move the locking mechanism.

    you said every part in the door was replaced, but i have a problem believing that.

    my guess is the switch is faulty or the wiring to the switch is faulty (your key or keyless can lock and unlock doors), and power is getting to the solenoid(s) to activate and move the lock mechanism, even though noone is pushing the switch.

    i suggest you take it to another dealer for service.

    i can imagine where wiring to this door's actuator solenoids is messed up, maybe shorting somewhere because of crimping or something, and it's just affecting this door, not the other 3.

    good luck.
  • chuminthewaterchuminthewater Member Posts: 91
    I bet, the lock mechanism is faulty - though it surely could be a switch issue.

    Or that some foreign matter or other debris is interfereing with the mechanism such that it cycles on or off for one reason or another.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    this is possible...i think you mean the solenoid assembly? it's possible internal, there is a short or loose wire that comes into contact with another winding or contact, and it actuates.

    however, if everything in the door was replaced, something is amiss.

    this is why i recommended another dealership - probably a different diagnosis technique will be employed, and the root cause identified.
  • trantran Member Posts: 12
    I just got a 05 Pilot EX-L. Just put around 800 miles on it. I noticed that the average mileage of both city and hwy driving is around 17 mpg. Why is it too low although I am quite gentle on the acceleration? I just wonder if every one feel the same thing. Is it true that brand new car drinks more gas than used? Will premium gas help? Thanks.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 33,769
    yes, its true that mileage will get better with break-in. However, if you search this discussion for mileage, you'll see my suggestions regarding the "idle learn procedure." This MAY be your problem, but 17 isn't too horrible on a new engine.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • jay_24jay_24 Member Posts: 536
    Temperature also plays into mileage. My subaru gets 27 to 28 in the summer and 23 to 24 in the winter when temps are bellow +30F. I get a tank of 21 to 22mpg when its bellow zero.

    Let it break in. once your around 5000 miles you will have a better idea.

    Stop-go driving kills SUV mileage. Many SUV drivers don't get the EPA estimates.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 33,769
    good point by jay. but where do you live?

    ALSO, something else I just thought of while reading that ... check your tire pressure. My wife's mileage recently dipped a couple mpgs (down to around 19) ... we initially thought "eh, its winter," but then I checked the tire pressures on a whim. Turned out they were all very low (28'ish). Pumped them back up to 34 all around and she said her last 2 tanks were back over the 20 mpg mark.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • jay_24jay_24 Member Posts: 536
    Minnesota, and finally expecting some good snow tonight! :)

    Good point on the tire pressure. You have to stay on top of those. I tend to run just a pound or two above the sticker on the door. 34 vs 32psi.
    That's for my subie. I'm not sure what the Pilot recomends.

    --jay
  • sportymonksportymonk Member Posts: 258
    Both thoughts were correct. It is winter and it is tire pressure. In winter, the colder temps tend to reduce tire pressure a little (varies due to a lot of factors). In the summer, all things being equal, they may go up a little but by then you will have driven a lot and pressure may have dropped anyways. I always put a little over normal at the start of winter in case I don't get out in the cold to check.
  • amiretamiret Member Posts: 29
    Help --- I have a Honda Pilot with Honda backup warning system. When I shift into reverse, the beeper "beeps" three times, pauses and repeats the cycle over and over. As I back up, the side sensors beep at a much higher pitch and seem to increase in more frequency as you get closer to an object, but the three beep signal is so loud the later is obscured. The inboard sensors don't seem to do anything. I have disconnected them with no change. Two Honda dealers tell me all is OK, and the three beep/pause is to let me know the system is on. If you have a system, or experience with one, tell me if it was the same as mine, and if not, what is different.
  • ckshubinckshubin Member Posts: 39
    Well, last I left you, the dealer had the car and was taking it for an overnight "test drive" with one of the employees and they said that if they couldn't get it to lock then they'd call me to pick up the car the next morning. They never called and after driving the rental car for 13 straight days I finally got my car back with the following instructions: "we went through the entire car, pulled up seats (it only locked when someone was sitting in the back seat) pulled the door panel off again and re-tested everything. There's nothing more we can do. If it does it again DO NOT bring it back in but call Honda Consumer Affairs". That being said I was skeptical and demanded they send someone for a 2 hour long extended test drive. They did. It never locked. In fact, it hasn't locked since. Is it fixed???? I sure hope so!

    My husband and I are willing to bet that they did find something small and stupid that they fixed that was causing it and didn't want to admit it OR they inadvertantly moved a wire that was crimped or shorting out because it wasn't where it was supposed to be when going over the car a final time and that solved the problem. So, happily, at this time, it seems to have been fixed.

    Thanks for all your input and help. I did contact a lemon law lawyer (which I told them I did...hmmm...wonder if that had something to do with it) and will call them back on Monday to tell them that, at this time, the problem appears to be fixed.

    Hey TRAN, I would LOVE to get 17 mpg! As it stands now, i'm only getting 11 mpg city. 13 highway. I'm going to try that idle learn procedure thing and see if that's the case....
  • ckshubinckshubin Member Posts: 39
    Straight from Honda Corp regarding towing weight difference on the Pilot

    "Towing: The Honda Pilot has a towing capacity of 4,500 pounds for boats and 3,500 pounds for trailers . A heavier load is acceptable with boats because their pointed bow shapes impose less aerodynamic drag on the towing vehicle than a slab-faced, square-cornered trailer."
  • sportymonksportymonk Member Posts: 258
    Understand but at slow speeds, aerodynamic resistance will be minimized. If speed is kept under say 40-45, I would think 4500 would be ok. At 65-70 the aerodynamic forces would increase dramatically. (Don't feel like calculating square foot area of a 6x12 U-Haul right now. Kinda tired.

    But then again, how many of us tow at 45 on the Interstate? I have seen UHauls towed well beyond the posted speed limit of 70.
  • cacalcacal Member Posts: 2
    Here's a twist on this discussion...I'd like to increase the GVWR of a 2005 Honda Pilot from the factory spec of 5,952 lbs. to 6,000 lbs. Why? Doing so would push the Pilot into a weight class which receives a very favorable tax treatment.

    Can anyone provide me with a suggestion on how to make this small increase?

    Thanks!
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 33,769
    how would you prove that you made such an increase? I don't believe this would count. It has to have that capacity in factory spec form. But that's just my guess.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • j2thomasj2thomas Member Posts: 25
    13 mpg highway, that's terrible. I'm cosistently getting 20+, even in the winter.
  • chuminthewaterchuminthewater Member Posts: 91
    My non Highway tanks - as in to and from work rush hour - normal weekly tanks.....

    I have filled up about 4 or 5 tanks.

    First one was around 14, last one was 17.5 - and every one has increased over the previous.

    I never had such changes from tank to tank. I think, at least w/honda, there is something to the engine break in.

    Now, when is best to get the first oil change? I had previously done #1 at about 1K to 1.5K - but have read on these boards to leave the oil in for up to 7500 miles? Is it some special oil to help w/breakin?
  • ckshubinckshubin Member Posts: 39
    Yep. It's lousy. The more mileage we put on it the worse it gets too. When I mentioned to the dealer that my mileage was bad he brushed it off as "break in" period. It's been 4 months and 3000 miles. We did the "idle learn procedure" this weekend. I just filled up the tank on Tuesday so we'll see if my mileage increases. And hey, I live in Southern California so I can't blame "winter weather" on lousy mileage since we don't really "get" winter.

    Another puzzle....the door hasn't locked at all since the last time - however, my auto window up/down doesn't work. This will be the second time this has stopped working. I'm starting to think that this car has overall electrical problems. hm.....think i'll keep in contact with the lemon law lawyer.

    I also have the question regarding the first oil change. My manual says 7000 or 1 year but the dealer said 3750 miles or 3 months for the first oil change. Who to believe.....when anyone finds out when we need to change the oil let us know!

    My husbands Lexus didn't get a first oil change till 1 year or 10,000 miles so I guess the synthetics oils and technologically advanced engines combined don't need it as often anymore???
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 33,769
    I knew I heard this complaint before ... so i went and searched a different website for it, and I've pasted the solution here. If you disconnected the battery (i think this was part of the idle learn procedure, was it not?), then this will kill the auto up/down feature.

    "NOTE: Whenever the battery is disconnected, the driver’s window AUTO function is disabled.

    37. Start the engine. Push down on the driver’s
    window switch until the window is fully open.

    38. Pull up on the driver’s window switch to close the
    window completely, then hold the switch for 2
    seconds.

    39. Test the window AUTO function."

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • wolffie110wolffie110 Member Posts: 2
    Can anyone advise how to remove the front door panels in a 2003 Pilot. There is a banging noise in the door and the dealer want to charge 89.95 just to look. thanks
  • ckshubinckshubin Member Posts: 39
    Wow! You are awesome! Thanks so much for the info. It worked! I'm very happy!

    I'm a happy Pilot owner!!!!
  • rsharprsharp Member Posts: 103
    go by your manual! Your dealer only wants your $$$.
    plus there is a special additive in the first factory oil that should not be changed before 7500. I have read somewhere in this forum where honest dealers won't change the oil at less than 7500 even if the customer wanted it done.
  • gnawk719gnawk719 Member Posts: 14
    Same problem with auto window. However I reset it myself as follows:simultaneously lower front driver and passenger window and then simultaneously raise them. That should reset the auto window.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    This keeps coming up.

    The 7500 and 10,000 mile oil change intervals are the LONGEST Honda reccommends.

    Some people like to take better care of their cars than that, myself included.

    The manual also says that in extreme conditions such as a lot of short trips and stop and go driving that oil changes should be done more often.

    I try to get my cars in between 3500 and 4000 miles but if I did more highway driving I would probably stretch that a bit.

    Ask any mechanic or technician if they would go 7500 or 10,000 miles without an oil change.

    I guess it's easy to accuse dealers of just wanting more money.
  • ckshubinckshubin Member Posts: 39
    I realize that you should go too long between oil changes. Thats a given. I think where the confusion is is when to do the FIRST oil change after buying the car. Supposedly it has a special oil that helps with engine break in - so when should that get changed? I don't care about the $$$$ since the dealer is paying for the first one anyway. They are saying 3750 miles or 3 months, manual says 7500 or 1 year BUT....it also said at 15,000 miles or 1 year to change the oil and it has some other service stuff listed as well. Very confusing/hard to understand their service manual/oil change recommendations. So.....what do I do? I'm at 4 months and around 2700 miles....to change the oil or not to change the oil....that is the question!

    BTW: Was waiting for restaurant to open for brunch today and pulled out manual to waste some time. The New Car Delivery checklist was in there and I was looking at what they checked off. Hmmm....the "idle learn procedure" WAS NOT checked off as done. Very interesting. Usually I could go 240 miles on a full tank in stop and go city driving. I've now gone almost 100 miles and i've used only about 1/4 of a tank of gas - This gives me hope that after doing the idle learn procedure myself that my mileage has greatly improved! We'll see. I'll keep you all posted.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Seriously, it probably doesn't make much difference. I just know, in my case, I'll do my first oil change around 4000 miles.

    If you follow the book and go with the minimum maintenance, you'll probably be OK too.

    I just think 7500 or 10,000 miles is a LONG time between oil changes, but, that's me.
  • sportymonksportymonk Member Posts: 258
    "I just think 7500 or 10,000 miles is a LONG time between oil changes, but, that's me."

    Agreed, I change every 5000 miles. I think the problem is the "don't change the first time until 7500 miles because it has special break in oil" issue. It sounds like most folks are concerned about not changing too early and messing up whatever the "special break-in oil" is supposed to do verses not going so long on oil changes which few of us would go that long. People want to not change too early and not mess up the break-in period of the engine. It appears Honda could be a little more clear in the owners manual concerning this and make sure dealers have the straight and skinny on this.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 33,769
    glad i could help.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 33,769
    I'm with you. 5K. Usually I do around 4k, like isellhondas, but I wanted to try to line-up with Honda's recommended maintenance in other areas, so by doing 5K, we still were in the shop at the 15K interval and did our differential fluid, etc.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • hoppy2hoppy2 Member Posts: 3
    Where do I find the instructions for the idle learn procedure?

    hoppy2@cox.net
  • ckshubinckshubin Member Posts: 39
    The link is in this thread somewhere. Do a "search this discussion" for "idle learn procedure". It will take you to a link where you can print out the page you need.

    It's a very simple procedure. I left the battery disconnected for about 5 minutes (I'm sure it was overkill but I wanted to make sure it was done right the first time).
  • 19191919 Member Posts: 2
    2005 Pilot under 4,000 miles makes noises when 1)turning right, 2)over rough terrain (city streets), and 3) the roll back at a complete stop. The noise is much more noticeable when the gas tank is near empty. The dealer replaced the front right strut which was unsuccessful. Next step is to replace the power steering rack (big job) but not sure if that will fix it. The power steering has worked fine - no vibrations. Has anyone else had a similar experience? What is this noise?
  • zis4mezis4me Member Posts: 2
    Can you describe the type of noise in more detail? Is it in the front? Which side? I am working with one too.
  • 19191919 Member Posts: 2
    whurring noise. sounds like it comes from the front. the dealer's diagnosis suggested front right side and that it grows more loud near the front right wheel. makes the noise everytime I turn the wheel right but also occurs when driving over bumpy terrain causing the wheels to shift right or left.

    what is your situation?
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