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Chevy Silverado: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
Excellent site to learn and prevent dealer overcharges on a fix of the problematic ABS system we all have on our Rado's. I have yet to experience this issue and hope I never do but the source is now out there to use should it rear its ugly head.
I did have to replace all four rotors on my 2000 2500 recently since they had self destructed (within 53k miles) do to the cheap source of metal company that makes them uses and GM buys from. The pads had plenty of life left on them but rotors were gone, and what a job to get them off ! :sick:
Ray T. :P
Thanks
Feel free to email me nicoleberger@iglide.net
me crazy. but the dealer say it's normal for that truck i was told to wait till it get wrost or falls apart before they can find the prolbem to fix. i have been checking the
net for info and so far it looks like theirs no fix for it and that it's a known defect
with the tranny and a cover-up.
None of your profiles reveal what state you live in and whether you have a :lemon: law to apply. If you do, the record keeping is key to your case. Been there done that and beat GM at their own game.
File complaints with http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov also. This agency is the only one that can get the ball rolling on a recall. Until then GM just issues TSB's which you already have experienced the result "Normal Condition" :mad:
Keep hounding GM and don't give up from frustration with the "big company" (they count on that).
Ray T. :shades:
Bookmark | Reply | E-mail Msg
I bought a 2001 Z71 Silverado last week and the ABS was coming on at low speeds. Took it in to have it looked at and $600 later it was fixed. Same issue as everyone else on here: corroded sensor mounting surface, but mine were totally frozen in the hub and ended up having to replace them. Then this morning, while still totally P.O.'d about this, I heard on the news that the NHTSB is investigating this problem on all 1998-2002 GM Light Trucks and may force a recall. It has caused accidents due to the ABS coming on at low speeds and not stopping the truck quickly enough. My recommendation is for EVERYONE who has had this problem log into the NHTSB website and log your complaint. Maybe I'll get my $600 dollars back!
:shades:
I dont know what ticks me off more, the transmission problem or them trying to tell me this is normal for this truck.
If anyone has any success please let me know.
Thanks
Well i was driving it the other day and the service engine light came on. I was actually taking it to smog it at the time cuz its due in a few months.Anywya obviously it failed de to the light being on...everything else passed with flying colors.
The smog guy gave me the diagnostic readings on it...there were 3 prob codes.Can anyone tell me what they are? he told me to call the dealer but i work graveyard shifts so i wont be able to tilllater on in the week?
heres the codes
p1 406
p1 864
p1860
My bf works on trucks so he said if its not too bad he can fix them. The guy said he thinks the first one is the egr valve is dirty or needs to be repalced. BLAH!! Anyway any help or can u all refer me to someone just n case the bf cant do it? I live in the so cali area in the san fernando valley,.or is there a place online i can look up the codes?
thanx all :P
P1864 -Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Electrical
P1860 -Torque Converter Clutch PWM Solenoid Circuit
Those are generic codes. The get the actual code would require your VIN or the third digit in your VIN.
Go to a local salvage yard and find a 99 & up model yr. Silverado with the bucket seats, if it has the center console you should be able to remove your center section seat and install the console provided the mounting points are the same.
Ray T. :shades:
thanks
Good Luck and I'm not giving up on the transmission issue, I'm going to try another dealer.
I thought this might have to do with the problem Im having with my 2003.
silverados that gm calls "within an acceptable range of tolerance"? balancer
jumps excessively, as does pulley.
I finally pulled the instrument cluster out and found that the circuit board that controls the gear shift and odometer LCD's did not fit exactly correct. The board was very slightly too low and that was causing it to not make good contact with the light readout.
So, rather than get a new cluster, I took a piece of plastic about the size of a penny and the thickness of a heavy gauge guitar pick and shimmed the board from underneath.
Presto- the lights came on and have worked since then.
I now have almost 170K miles on it and no problem from that anymore.
I know it's a cheesy fix but it works.
Good luck.
Jim
Joe
It is most noticeable when on other than smooth roads.
Is there actually a cure or is it a maintenance item as I have read? It was posted that there is some grease kit with a plug for $15-is this from GM?
Thanks for the help!
It's not easily servicable (drop the tank or lift the bed). Then again I don't think it's on the routine maintenance list any more either..
Piston slap, ya I hear it. I've havn't batted an eye. Engine runs fine and most important I do not hear it long after engine is started.
Driveline clunk, ya I had the drive shaft relaced after a second visit at the dealer they could not denie the ujoint vibration.
ABS light, ya it bothered me because of the nature of it comming on. I ignored it for a little while then I pulled the code and looked it up. I am a mechanic and I have a scanner. The code basically said it was either a wheel sensor or it was the ABS module. Luckly I had extended coverage and I used it. The module retail price was $800 I was shocked but I assume the module perfomes duties for more than just the brakes.
I have had stereo speaker problems, something about water damage, window regulators replaced and ofcourse the tailgate straps braking. other than that I also notice the fuel mileage gone down from when it was new but hey I alo love the
Because I do all non warranty work on my truck I am finally ready to do my brakes for the first time. I am having an issue with my rear rotors. They look like a cancer has eaten them alive. they are so rust pitted that they actually wore out before the pads. I still have pad life but the rotors on the rear are about to fail. My local Napa tells me I can buy either $54 Tiawan or $118 dollar pemium rotors for the rear. My sales rep tells me that Chevy has had problems with the rotors but the only other info is that the local chevy dealer buys the $54 Tiawan rotors for the used truck tradeins. Does any one else know or have noticed this problem? If so does anyone know if it is worth the money to go premium. I am going to continue looking in other areas like TSB but the problem has just pushed ahead on my hot button list so I thought I would field the question here.
Somewhat common thing seen on GMs in the rust belt.
Regards,
Dusty
Dusty
Ed.