Chevy Silverado: Problems & Solutions

meangene1

This model uses electric actuator motors and a small electronic head unit.I really do not know a good way to test them!

jjtj

Just an update on my situation, Justin - I just replaced the spark plugs & wires.. I used the recommended AC Delco 41-985 Irridium plugs & a good quality set of Accel silicone wires. Helped the warm start problem slightly, but didn't fix it. The truck has a noticeable increase in seat of the pants power though!

I'm thinking the problem could be the fuel pressure regulator or one or more of the individual coil packs. If I can get ahold of one of those clip-on spark testers I might try that to check the coils since my wires & plugs are new.

Anyone else wanna chime in with any ideas, they would be most appreciated! Jason

archie5

I ran completely out of gas while driving.
Put 5 gallons new gas in tank.
Tried to start truck. Truck will not start.
Looked at owner's manual. It says nothing on restarting after run out of gas.
I called 'help' line and they said to turn ignition key to on position just before starting truck and leave there for 5 seconds, then return to normal prestart key position and repeat five times.
I did this and truck still will not start.
Is there anything else I can do?
Is there any way to be sure the fuel is reaching the injectors?
Thanks for your help.
Archie

suzyk2

no one responded to our post. I am thinking that the porblem we were having with our silverado has even this message forum stumped.
We did find the solution to our problem ourselves, so please do not respond as i will not be checking back to this forum again.
thanks

meangene1

Have not resolved my blower motor problem yet-but noticed yesterday that the accumilator and liquid line wew covered in ice which would dissipate quickly whe n you turned the air off.Would this possibly backup the freezing evaporator theory?Thanx for all the help!

gklott

We've now experienced several days where the Duramax will not start in the morning. We've towed it twice to the dealer. One time it started on first try. Second time, the service rep couldn;t start it. Once towed into the shop, it started for the technician.

Engine turns over, cranks fine, but won't catch.

Dealer cannot find the problem. Computer diagnostics finds no problems.

Has anyone else experienced this problem?

73/gus

jerrywimer

I'm definitely not the automotive maintenance expert or do-it-yourself guru some of the others here are, but that sure sounds like it to me. At least if household AC and automative systems work the same- the last house we rented (military here, move a lot) had a system that needed charged at least once a year (cheap landlord refused to get a proper repair or replacement). Anyway, one of the lines had a tear in the insulated cover and ice built up there until the system was recharged the same as on the evaporator.

selkirk

I've had this problem twice on my 2003. Each time it was as if the fuel filter lost prime (or maybe it had just started to clog). I presses the priming pump on the top of the fule filter 2 or 3 times and it started fine. Mentioned it to the dealer, but got the word that they didn't know. Hope this saves you a tow!

rayt2

Your system could be low on refrigerant if displaying this condition. Have it checked and add as necessary. If r-12 you'll need to know someone or have to go to licensed repair shop because of EPA requirements with this older refrigerant.

Ray T.

scott25

Hi everyone!
I have a 2000 Silverado with 52,000 mi. that I just began noticing the same problems... I thought it was the battery or a tank of bad gas. Cleaned the plugs, that helped a little...Quarter of the way through a new tank with higher octane and the problem is getting a bit better... I am going to have the battery load tested this afternoon. I suspect that the HEI ignition ( or whatever this version is ) requires a good battery and mine is now 5 years old... I don't know for sure, just a guess. My best friend is a Master Toyota tech so..... he will help me look at it for the small price of 10 years of grief for it not buying a Toyota...minimum.

scott25

Well everyone, figured it out... Fuel Presure Regulater!!! $75.00 ( for the part )and about ten minutes later, completely fixed! It turns out this is a fairly common problem. Be sure to completely release fuel line pressure before removing regulater! A shower and cleaning solvent later and I still smell like 87%... It's under about 75 pounds of pressure! There are two different versions of the regulater, so make sure you get the right one! You look at the vacuum line connection. 1st generation comes straight out, secound ( and cheaper ) is at 90 degrees or out the side! Now, I have to take my mechanic a six pack for his help and begin the process of listining to his Chevy bashing...

jjtj

That was one of my guesses, based on the troubleshooting guide in my Haynes manual. I really appreciate you posting the solution. Are you sure it's fixed? Not doubting, just that sometimes I think I've got something fixed and it turns out to be temporary. Also, did your friend test the regulator in some way, or how did he or you know it was bad?

Thanks again for the post & I'll probably pick up the regulator this week - Jason

james23

Years ago the body side moldings were black and looked just fine. You might consider using a product called "Back to Black" and making them black...usually black blends well with any truck because of other black in the bumpers etc. and you could then use the "Back to Black" there also. It all depends on your taste in the cosmetics of your truck....but if you go this route...it will be easy to maintain and keep everything looking new. ( I have a 2000 Silverado with Black Body Side Moldings and they look just fine...also have a black bedliner and black bumpers and everything blends well and in my opinion black looks great on a truck and keeping it looking good is easy. Going to the body shop is going to be expensive and the color is going to continue to be a problem everyyear from the UV exposure and depletion of the ozone layer. Best Wisher . James

james23

Not sure what your problem may be...but one thing, after you get it fixed be sure to run synthetic oil. I use Mobil 1 10W30 and that is preferable to 5W30 as long as you do not operate in conditions below 10 degree F. I think alot of engine problems with values can be avoided by using the best lubricants because there is a period after start up when the upper engine is relatively "dry" and these lubricants flow better and give more immediate lubrication. Also, while they cost more, in the long run you will save money on better gas mileage and essentially no engine wear. Mobil 1 is fine, but there are even better brands...personally I think they are overkill. And while they say you can go miles between changes, I change my oil about every 4-5 thousand miles and use the Mobil 1 filter. Going longer is okay for the oil, but the filters tend to clog defeating the whole purpose of using a high quality oil. Also, the best fuel conditioner that I have used is BG44K...you might give this a try. Fiberoptic tests show that this product actually does clean values, fuel injectors, and carbon off pistons.

lhess

just this past christmas day our speedometer quit working. the part was on a national back order for a little over a month. Anyone else had this happen on a GM vehicle? Inquiring minds... I guess.

meangene1

Anybody ever used "freeze 12" to top a system off with?

lando2000

I HAD this. I'll bet once you get your U joints replaced, it goes away.

Nathan

dringo

Thanks... sorry for delay, I've been busy with other items.

I'll try it and let you know if it works.

silverado4life

Hey I'm thinking about using a leveling kit to level my 02' Z71 silverado extended cab. Has anyone done this that has pictures and or could recommend a good kit? Also, I have heard of using a variety of tire sizes, the most popular being 33's, whats do ya'll recommend?

jjtj

Just thought I'd let you know, and anyone else who might need it, that my problem was the fuel pressure regulator as well. Very easy to replace, just kill your battery, use the schrader valve on the passenger side of the engine to release fuel pressure. Then remove the retaining clip & vacuum hose & it pops right out. Truck starts great when warm now, plus seems to run smoother overall too.

cruzzonn

Has anyone had any problems with there heat shields making a rattle or vibration noise at low RPM ?

bzackrie

hi, i need help , my truck steering is pretty lose, there is alot of play before the wheel actually turns. I do not know what to look for for what the problem could be. can anybody tell me what to look for or a part that probably needs to be replaced or something?

geo9

And all sound dangerous.......................

A bad idler arm, pitman arm, center link etc.
A trip to the repair shop for a look see should be your first stop !

pcooper

I am interested in buying a 2001 Silverado that has 55000 miles on it and was used to tow a 5th wheel trailer 5- 6 times a year. The Oil has been changed regularly but the Transmission and Trans-axel fluid has not been changed (I think it should have been done at either 30M or 45M miles). The Transmission does have a transmission fluid cooler and when I checked the color it was slightly dark relative to new fluid. The truck drove well with no slipping or strange noise. My question is "how likely is this truck to give me problems (long term) if I Flush out the Tranney, Trans-axel, & differiental righ away?

Thanks for your advice.

Perry

scott25

Hey Jason,

Sorry to get back a bit late... It seems to have corrected the problem... The way you know if it is a bad regulator is...pull the vacuum line out. If there is gas in the vacuum line, the regulator is bad! I saw your posting later... My truck runs much smoother also! Have a good one and glad to read your truck is fixed also!

Scott

rayt2

Go ahead and change the fluids their do for it now anyway. If the guy has the maintenance records and shows its been well maintianed its probably a good buy. Tranny fluid is supposed to go 100k on these trucks unless used for trailering or severe service, than 50k is the requirement. Read the manual if it still has it this is spelled out under maintenance programs.

Ray T. :shades:

slamdance

I have a 2000 Z-71 with the 5.3 and auto transmission with 60,000 miles on it. I have the standard issues; sticky throttle body and piston slap when cold, rusted power window regulator and had to replace the ABS wheel speed sensors. Recently, whenever I am on the highway and need to accelerate to keep a constant uphill speed, I am getting what seems to be an engine misfire. It feels like the engine is bogging down under load.The RPMs bounce and there is a loss of speed that comes and goes and the whole truck bucks. If I use the tow/haul selector to drop the gear down, it stops bogging down. It doesn't seem to happen at all at speeds under 40 mph. and if I am really stepping on the gas, it seems fine all the way through up to about 75 mph. It's only if I am cruising with a light foot on the accelerator and then need to give it little more gas to get up an incline. Could this be related to the sticky throttle body? I had a recent tune-up that included new plugs and wires. Would a bad plug or wire cause an issue like this? The check engine light is not on and there are no codes.

jjtj

I'd make sure that the shop who did the tune-up used OEM parts. I've been told by several people that the AC Delco Irridium plugs are by far the best for these engines ( I have the 6.0). Also make sure to use OEM wires or better. The plugs can run $6-$7 each at Autozone, etc. There's a guy on ebay who sells a set of 8 for $30. The part number is 41-985 and they come pre-gapped. I replaced my plugs and for wires used Accel 8.8mm silicone wires. Took about 45 minutes for everything and made a noticeable difference in off the line acceleration, plus MPG's went up slightly. If all that checks out OK, I'd test your fuel pressure to rule out a weak fuel pump or injector problem. I wouldn't think the sticky throttle body could be the cause but you could try cleaning it, if you haven't already to rule it out.

venturer1300

I have a 2005 Silverado LS 1500 with the standard driver/passenger climate control. Occasionally, the vents don't put out much air volume, but the air is still cool. I can hear the blower moving lots of air, but with the fan speed on full blast, the air is barely moving out of the vents. Any ideas?

04silveradols

I have a 2004 Silverado LS with lots of problems. I'm looking for people with similar problems that hasn't been resolved by the dealership or GM and went to arbitration. The problem I have with my truck is that it has a starting problem. It will crank, but no fire. Sometimes takes over 5 minutes to get it started. After it does start, the truck will die once in drive. Anyone out there with similar problem? If you got it repaired, what did you do? Already started arbitration in the state of California. PLEASE HELP!

jjtj

To me, it sounds like maybe the control that directs the air to the dash vents, or the floor, or defrost, may not be working. I believe that control is vacuum operated, at least it used to be, not sure in the NBS trucks. Maybe the control is not changing the damper to push the air out the dash vents as it should. I know in the old body style trucks, the selector dial on the dash used to break easily, but the new trucks have different controls & I don't think that would be an issue.

04silveradols

I have a 2004 LS Extended cab and had experienced tranny problems too. It happened at 13k and got stuck at 30mph. I took it to a dealer and they told me that a new tranny had to go into the truck. No problems since then. You should get a new tranny too. Don't know if the trannys are the same between extended cab and crew cab.

04silveradols

Has anyone out there experienced starting problems? My truck has about 30k and has recently occurred. I let it sit for about 10 mins. and it won't start. When it does start, it will die once in drive. Took it to the dealer and it happened, but the repairs they did didn't help? Anyone have any ideas to remedy the problem. Thanks.

dhoyt

I have a Chevy 3500 crew cab with the retractable towing mirrors. The passenger mirror is really tough to use, the field of view seems so limited, especially compared to the drivers side mirror. Anyone else notice this? I asked the dealer about it all they said was that there is no replacement. Is there?
Thanx

obyone

When was the last time you changed your fuel filter?

meangene1

I have a similar ongoing problem with my 90 C1500 which I posted earlier in this forum.The comsensus was low freon but we charged it full yesterday and the accumilator and liquid line are still freezing up- indicating that the evaporator is freezing up and restricting air flow.You can turn the air off for a few minutes and when you turn it back on the full flow will be there ...for a few miles.We are going to check for a resriction in the sealed system now-I guess,unless someone has another theory.Hope you get yours resolved!

meangene1

I had to replace a cat conv on a 95 k5 and put what looked like a huge hose clamp on my 90 c1500 aftermarket cat conv.Got the clamp from Mazda,it was intended for use on a Miata.

chevy99

I have a 99 Silverado 4x4 with 80k. Recently, when I accelerate a loud clicking sound comes from the rear of the truck. When I let my foot off the gas, the sound goes away. No foreign objects could be found that my be making a sound. Any ideas? Thank you.

geo9

Sounds like your u-joints are on their way out. Ever changed them?

chevy99

I checked the u-joints and they seem to be in good shape. Not sloppy or loose. When I tap metal to the drive shaft I think I am getting the same sound that I am getting while driving. I can't think what would be in there to make the sound though. Thank you for the reply.

geo9

Good old GM did away with the old style u-joints with the steel
retaining clip.
Now they have plastic cap retainer guts that can fool ya.
Now ya BURN the retainer and joint out instead of pressing or pounding it !
Its best to pull the driveshaft off and bench check it.................

You say it "clicks" huh? Sure its not a "clicking" sound ?
If you have high mileage........Its prob. the u-joints

estaka

My 93 k1500 and my 97 Tahoe both sucked a lot of dirt into the evaporator chamber. The trucks are used for work in real muddy and dirty areas and when a passenger gets in the car with dirty boots, the dust and the dirt gets sucked into the evaporator which is moist... creating mud ... My 93 had almost 1/2 inch of mud blocking the evaporator and the Tahoe about 1/4. I cleaned them out by removing the a/c fan and spraying water into the evaporator repeatedly (while off) and sucking out the mud/water sludge with my shop vac. Improved performance 100%. Good luck.

estaka

My 93 K1500 has a hard shifting problem when going from 1st to 2nd. Works well otherwise. Did a trouble code check and came back with an error code 73. All of the wiring harness has been checked and looks to be fine. fluid is fresh and the right color. Any idea what is going on? Tranny was rebuilt about 2 years ago and few miles have been placed on the truck since. Help would be most welcomed. Thank you

dj8

I have a 1990 standard shift, Chevy Silverado with 5.7/350 engine. After driving the truck and parking it for a few minutes, I get back in and it won't start. Doesn't even crank. Have replaced heat shields, clutch safety, fuel filter, starter and solenoid. Starter is not draggy either.
Will eventually start when it cools down. This only happens in warm weather. Engine temperature is normal and everything else works as it should including electrical
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,

slamdondubz

I had a problem something like that with my 98 chevy silverado. It had the 5.7 but maybe the engine parts are alike. The problem with mine was the EGR valve solenoid. It was malfunctioning and at certain speeds it would make the truck jump like you are saying yours is doing. All I did was disconnected connect the vacuum hoses to check it out and when they were disconnected it ran fine so I replaced it. I don't remember what the price was but was not very expensive. Hope that helps you.

chrisadams

I've got a 98 4.3L V6 2wd automatic. 85K miles. Pretty good truck, but the other morning in the middle of an intersection the radio, a/c, power steering, and power brakes all went out on me going about 45 mph, the engine coughed a couple of times, then everything came back on. Then it repeated this a couple more times as I managed to pull off on a side street. It came to a stop and wouldn't start back for a few minutes. Of course it started for the tow truck driver, and the shop couldn't find anything wrong except a loose wire at the distributor. The alternator and wires are OK, the battery is almost new. The shop supposedly fixed the wire, but it doesn't seem quite right. It hesitates a little bit at highway speeds, and it kind of jerks some when I take off from a stop light. Somebody mentioned bad grounding (?)... Any ideas would be appreciated - I'll try to answer questions if you need more information, but I'm not a mechanic. Thanks.

01silverado

Hi... I just bought a 2001 Used silverado 1500 with the 4.8 V8 a few days ago and everything was PERFECT about it. That was until just today when i filled the gas tank up with gas. The second i pulled out of the gas station, the gauge went nuts! It dropped down to empty and then shot right back up to full. And it hasn't stopped doing this since. Is there anyone that can help me out as to letting me know what the heck is going on? Hopefully it's nothing to incredibly expensive to fix, but these days, what isn't. If someone could help me out i would greatly appreciate it. Thanks!

lando2000

You just need a new fuel sensor. Worst case scenario is new fuel sending unit. Mine did the same thing the day I bought it from the dealer, so they fixed it.. no idea $$$ but no problems since.

Nathan
2000 Chev Silverado xc 4x4, 4.8

ddd522

Had my 2000 Silverado at car wash and left headlights and fog lights on when heard a click and no fog lights. Dealer said it was the switch which I replaced but it did not fix the problem. Anyone else had this problem and what was the resolution.

Just one more thing on my Chevy list

slamdance

Thanks to all for all the suggestions. I took it back to my mechanic and he replaced the plugs for free thinking one of the plugs may have been dropped in shipping and was malfunctioning. He also found a small vacuum leak at the throttle intake. All is well now. Runs like a top and no charge as he felt terrible about the issue. Thanks again to everyone for the help.