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Oil Filter Change
I have a 2012 Highlander with the 2 GR-FE V6 engine. So far.the instructions were after replacing the O rings thighten the filter hand tight. Then to give an extra 1/2 to 1/3 turn the BUT the filter housing was alredy seated on the block. I figured the O ring had slipped to a different grove. I removed the filter but the O ring was in the proper spot. I reinstalled the filter and went by the instructions on the box that said "hand tight and then torque to 9.5 ft lbs. But, I know the filter housing is still tight on the block. (I used all Toyota parts). On our other toyota there were tabs on the filter housing that kept the housing secure.
Did I do the oil filter change right?????
Did I do the oil filter change right?????
0
Answers
Did you use a torque wrench and torque the cap in place or just tighten it? Otherwise there us no way to know if you really did it right or not without seeing first hand what you did. It's not a very complicated procedure but there are mistakes that can be made.
Which does not make any sense to me.
Was this the right way to do it????
I always got them a little tighter than what they recommended by giving the filter an extra half turn or so. I never had a problem getting them back off either.
I remember the 36 MM rear axle nuts on VW bugs called for some oddball torque number I believe it was 238 Ft. Pounds. Who could afford a torque wrench in those days?
238 pounds is TIGHT so we just made sure we put them on TIGHT and never had a problem!
Thanks for the info
Also, most dealers now have dedicated service bays that do oil changes while you wait.
But, hey, if you've had good luck with the chains, stick with them! Some are much better than others I'm sure.