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Engine oil jelling

pass4x4pass4x4 New YorkPosts: 2
edited January 2015 in Subaru
2011 Subaru outback with 49000 miles. Regular oil changes every 5000 miles with Subaru filters.
After the last oil change at 45000 miles the engine started shuddering when reversing from garage at @48300 miles. Once warmed up drives okay. Within a week it threw up code 0028 and found engine oil jelled up. Drained, flushed and replaced oil. I replaced the oil pressure switch and solenoid just in case. Code came back with less than 1000 miles after oil change. Anybody else having similar problem. Can't understand the reason for jelling. Have been using Castrol GTX 5-30 all the time with Subaru OEM filters.

Comments

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 61,456
    edited January 2015
    What does the engine look like inside? Has valve cover and pan been off? Was the intake valve control solenoid replaced? The oil you use seems to meet specification.

    the only other thing I can think of to cause this might be coolant contamination. This would not be a surprise on a Subaru 2.5L engine, even as new as 2011 (although not as common as earlier engines).

    So by all means while you're dealing with this, test for leaking head gaskets.

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  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 20,197
    What years and which engines were affected with that head gasket problem? I know it was pretty widespread.
  • pass4x4pass4x4 New YorkPosts: 2
    Intake valve control solenoid LH and oil pressure switch was replaced. Oil filter with the jelled residue was given to a Subaru mechanic and he ruled out coolant contamination. After clearing the code I have driven @ 150 miles and the code did not come back so far. I checked the oil today and it's consistency is thicker. I am suspecting bad oil and thinking of replacing with synthetic. Should I flush the engine again before doing that.?
    {Both oil changes from 5 gallon containers bought from a superstore}
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 61,456
    You might consider dropping the oil pan and cleaning that out, along with the oil pan screen, and then using a synthetic oil. Using a "flush" would depend on what you find in there. I don't like flushes but if it's really mucky in there you don't have much choice---and at this point, you don't have much to loose if it's really gummed up inside.

    It's only 1.7 hrs to R&R the oil pan so not too bad.

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  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Posts: 4,677
    You should get the oil manufacturer involved, send them a sample for testing, and send one to a lab like Blackstone to have an independent analysis done on the oil. http://www.blackstone-labs.com/
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