Volkswagen Passat Maintenance and Repair



  • krzysskrzyss Member Posts: 849
    As noted earlier the user's manual for VW was ammended. It is not OK to use 5W30. The oil must meet VW specification 502.00 (if I am not mistaken). Search edmunds and you find link to pdf on VW site.
    All approved oils are synthetic, mostly 5W40 and 0W40.

  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    You wrote:
    The only 5W30 synthetic oils vw recommends:

    - Pennzoil-Quaker State European Formula Ultra
    -Quaker State Full Synthetic European Formula Ultra
    -Valvoline Synpower

    If you check Valvoline's website, you'll find that Synpower 5w-30 (as available in the US and Canada) is NOT 502.00 compliant. Only 5w-40 Synpower is compliant. Also Valvoline MaxLife Synthetic 5w-30 is compliant. VW got it wrong in the sludge letter.
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    You wrote:
    Also, to get to the oil filter, you'll need to remove the coolant reservoir. You don't need to disconnect it - just unscrew the screws and move it to the side to access the oil filter.

    And I am sure others will reiterate this: Make sure you use a VW oil filter (should be a rather large one) and use 5w40 or 0w40 motor oil. 5w40 is available at NAPA and 0w40 at various places (I know Advance Auto Parts carries it).

    I know when you remove the filter, a lot of oil comes out, so be prepared to soak it up with something. You'll see what I mean when you get it off.

    Couple of alternatives and pointers - As an alternative ot moving the coolant reservoir on the 1.8T, I've seen VW techs at my dealer unscrew the clamp on the air intake hose at the manifold and move it to gain access to the oil filter. It works at least as well as moving the coolant tank, if not better (only one thing to unscrew and you're less likely to lose the hose clamp versus dropping one of the coolant tank screws.

    Another tip I observed at the dealership - the techs use a large plastic cup (like a "big gulp" cup) to capture the oil that leaks when removing the oil filter. They loosen the filter a bit and then place the cup around the filter and then unscrew the filter. Works quite well - virtually no engine clean up required.

    Lastly, for the first time DIY'ers - don't confuse the transmission drain plug with the engine oil drain plug. Don't laugh! I've read it over and over on a few other dedicated Passat forums around the web.
  • mikevfrmikevfr Member Posts: 1
    Where can I find a fuel door for my 2001.5 Passat GLS. Mine is cracked. Thanks, MK
  • pass4xpass4x Member Posts: 2
    Hi I also have been reading this and other forums, but only after I bought my Passat 2004.5, 1.8T GLS 4Motion Manual drive. I have more than 9000 miles on this car because I love driving this car instead of the Chrysler T&C which is my second car which has become my secondary car now. I have no issues with this car which I bought end of Sept. 2004, but my issues are with the dealers and sludge build up in the engine. The dealer I bought the car from put regular 5W30 oil and after 5000 miles I took it to another dealer for oil change and they put synthetic according to VW directive but 10W40, I suspect because the car became sluggish until engine warmed up and I was getting less gas mileage. I am going to wait for VW response before taking for next oil change. So if you are looking for a solid fun to drive car you know my answer. I was using a Subaru legacy AWD before and it started showing signs of age so I had to get rid of it.
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    I have a better idea...Order the VW 502.00 spec oil yourself and have the dealer put it in (like I do). That way, the dealer has the record of the oil change and you have the proof that a VW Spec oil was used (via your receipts). Make sure the dealer enters the specific type of oil that was used into their maintenance records (just for added insurance).

    The VW 502.00 spec oil that I use for my wife's 2003 Passat GLS 1.8T is Castrol Syntec 5w40. Here's a link to the site where I order it from:

    It goes for $7.15/bottle. Think of it as sludge insurance (or VW warranty insurance). Sometimes you just have to take matters into your own hands...
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    I do the same thing, but I buy my 5w-40 Valvoline Synpower (it's on the 502.00 approved list and the approval is listed on the label) from NAPA auto parts. $4.69 a quart as of last week.
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    That's an even better idea... Thanks for the tip...
  • pass4xpass4x Member Posts: 2
    Thinking of doing the oil change myself, went to VW dealer and got oil filter( asked for oil filter for 2004 passat sedan) part #06A 115 561B. Looking in my car I have part #068 115 561 which is a slightly bigger filter. Which part # you have for the filter. AutoZone nearby have Mobil1 5W30 synthetic.
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    Make sure you keep every bit of documentation as to type of oil used, mileage intervals, dates, etc., so VWoA can't pull a fast one in case you have any future warranty issues.

    And make sure you change the oil every 5000 miles (and not one mile over) to keep all of your bases covered.
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    I'd ditch the Mobil 1 5w-30 since it's not 502.00 compliant. It's just not hardy enough to stand up to the 1.8T engine.

    If you're a Mobil 1 fan, use the 0w-40 variety - it has the 502.00 spec approval right on the label. NAPA and Pep Boys carry 5w-40 Valvoline Synpower, as an alternative.

    The "068" larger filter is part of the anti-sludge solution cobbled together by VW. It slightly increases the total oil capacity of the 1.8T engine (which has an incredibly small oil sump considering it's a turbo).

    I personally don't think using the original filter (06A) will really hurt you, as long as you're using the proper synthetic oil (502.00 approved) and sticking to an oil change interval of 5,000 miles or less. But if I had my druthers, I'd go with the bigger filter (which was OEM to the early 1990's VW diesel engines).
  • bill1975bill1975 Member Posts: 19
    Hi, and thanks for your reply. Small details like you mentioned arent a big deal to me provided I really enjoy the car and how it drives. And I do with the Passat. To me, reliability means that it will start and run when I need it too. Provided the engine doesnt seize, or the transmission doesn't drop out, I'm usually ok with a couple of burned out lights here and there. Those arent as critical to me. However, with some of the horror stories Ive hear online, I don't know. I assume these are just folks complaining because they couldnt take care of their care. Although VW's are more fragile and sensitive to abuse and lack of maintenance. Then again if I'm looking at "gripe sites" (i.e. - I'm probably getting a skewed picture.
  • maddog_ncmaddog_nc Member Posts: 1
    Salutations all! I am writing because I talked to my girlfriend last night and her VW dealer charged her $250 to replace one headlight on her 2003 Passat! They told her that the light encasement could not be removed to just replace the bulb...they said the whole light had to be replaced! I was writing to see if that is true, does the whole light have to be replaced?! I do not have her owner's manual so I cannot research this on my own. I cannot imagine $250 for one headlight!!!

    Thanks in advance for any help.
  • gepeszgepesz Member Posts: 1
    Would anyone tell me what PO302 code stands for? I have a 99 Passat 1.8L Turbo that was scanned and this code came up. I want to know what expenses I look forward. Thanks...
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    They must be charging a hell of a lot for labor - the bulb is a $13 item....
  • jaybrown_22jaybrown_22 Member Posts: 1
    $250 does sound outrageous for replacing a headlight. is it not covered under warranty? i own a 2002 passat and i've had to replace both headlights 3 times. the dealership changed them out for free because they were covered under warranty. has she had any other problems with her car. the only problems i've had are the headlights and interior rattling. everything inside rattles, even when i drive over the smallest bump or road paint striping. it's really annoying, but i don't think there's anyhing i can do about it. can't wait to get rid of it.
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    $250 to change a bulb? You're sure that the headlight wasn't cracked or something? No water in it or anything?

    I can tell you categorically that the halogen bulb can be replaced without changing the entire headlight. It's a little bit of a chore, but the bulbs can be removed without removing the headlight from the car. There are online instructions on some of the other internet forums for the Passat (rules here prohibit me from giving you a link).

    I hope she got kissed...

    Oh, and BTW, the owner's manual for the '03 will refer you to the dealer for headlight replacement. There are no instructions (I know - I've got an '03). It's another of the great outrages about the Passat owner's manual.

    At the very least, I'd complain about this to the service manager or even VWoA. This would be the last time I darkened that service department's doorway.
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    I would go and buy the bulb and either a) install it yourself or b) find a reputable private VW mechanic to install it for you. Steer clear of the dealer at all costs...
  • passatownerpassatowner Member Posts: 16
    It's covered under warranty as long as she's under 50,000 miles. And the whole light DOES NOT have to be replaced; even if it did, it's covered under warranty, too. I've had both of my headlight bulbs replaced FREE OF CHARGE since my 2002 Passat is under 50,000 miles.
  • bindhubindhu Member Posts: 20
    What about the skid plate ; is it absolutely necessary to put it back into place or can we without it. A mechanic took it off saying it did not serve any purpose except render the oil change difficult but i kept it, i would have to look for the screws and bolt though.
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    It's not a skid plate. Most people call it the belly pan. It does a couple of things: noise reduction; keeps dirt and water out of the engine compartment and belt area; assists in cooling by the venturi effect; it also keeps the front wheel liners from rubbing against the front tires when driving at speed.

    You can get the attachment parts at your dealer or at ESC Tuning -

    And if the mechanic threw away the attachment hardware, I'd send him the bill for the replacement parts 'cause it's gonna cost you $40+.
  • chispichispi Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem but haven't found it anywhere. If you find anything please let me know.

    Thanks!! ;)
  • japherjapher Member Posts: 10
    It was just plain old mineral oil - I think Chevron. I plan to use 5W20 in the future.

    Thanks for the tip.
  • japherjapher Member Posts: 10
    I thought I'd pose this question to the forum to tap whatever wisdom is out there.

    I've been using mid-grade (89 octane) and even regular (87 octane) in my 2004 1.8T sedan, with no ill effects whatsoever. There is no knocking, no decline in performance, no decreased fuel mileage.

    I've read that car manufacturers often specify premium gas to give their engines an aura of being more exotic and higher performance. Further I've read that use of regular does not hurt the engine, void the warranty, or have any other detrimental effect, provided there is no pre-ignition. Any thoughts on the matter would be appreciated.
  • fish8fish8 Member Posts: 2,282
    Well.....I don't mean to be harsh, but if you continue to treat your Passat in the manner you are doing you WILL have problems, especially sludge issues. VW calls for specific Synthetic Oils to be used because Turbo engines run HOT and Synthetics don't breakdown as fast as regular Dino oil. If you continue to "try and save money" you WILL do damage to your enigine. The worst part will be that the engine WILL NOT be covered under the extended warranty provided to all 1.8t owners. So, bottom line, be prepared to spend over $5,000 on a new engine.

    As far as your gas choice: I think you MAY be right as to whether regular gas (non-premium) will hurt your engine. I believe the 1.8t engine will compensate for inferior octane gas. But, you are losing performance when you use 87 or 89 octane. I guess my question is: Why buy a VW Passat when you can't or won't maintain it as the manufacturer specifies? If you can't afford the synthetic oil or premium gas, buy a Honda or Toyota. That is something I have NEVER understood. People buy a high(er) performance car and then skimp on gas which only save you about $2.50 per fill up. It's not that much money your saving if you really look at it.

    As far as your statement "I've read that car manufacturers often specify premium gas to give their engines an aura of being more exotic and higher performance".
    Where did you read that? That is a bunch of crap. These days, manufacturers are trying to extend service intervals, require regular gas vs premium to try and save the car buyer $$. It's a great marketing tool to tell potential buyers that oil changes are only need at 15K miles (Porsche's).

  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    You plan to use 5w-20 in the future? The 1.8T engine calls for 5w-40 Synthetic! You are gonna kill that engine in no time with 5w-20.
  • fish8fish8 Member Posts: 2,282
    I guess you had the short post version!!!! ;)
  • 4itgog4itgog Member Posts: 15
    My former 99 Passat had the lowest drag coeficient of all cars except the Honda Impact, at .27.
    The skidpad greatly reduces drag under the car, and should result in better gas milage.
  • japherjapher Member Posts: 10
    I'm on solid ground on both the oil and gas issues.

    The owner's manual states "..... If engine oil viscosity grade SAE 5W-40 is not available, you can also use SAE 5W-30." The next paragraph discusses the designations that must appear on the container - VW500 oo, etc. The oil I bought had the API Service SJ designation, which is shown in the manual. There is no mention of synthetic oil.

    However I wish I had used the larger VW oil filter.

    As for the gasoline grade, my owners manual states: "Do not use any fuel with octane ratings lower than 87 AKI ......."

    91 AKI is recommended, but not required.

    Unlike you, I have trouble understanding why people would willingly pay extra money for NO perceivable benefit. I can not tell any performance difference between a tankful of premium, and a tankful of regular. So why would I voluntarily fork over an extra $4.00 a fill-up (price difference in my area) for something that provides no benefit?
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    You wrote:
    I've been using mid-grade (89 octane) and even regular (87 octane) in my 2004 1.8T sedan, with no ill effects whatsoever. There is no knocking, no decline in performance, no decreased fuel mileage.

    I don't think you can measure the performance accurately enough to determine this. However, Car and Driver did the measurements: you can find the full article on their website:

    link title

    Here's their bottomline:

    "The results were more dramatic with the test cars that require premium fuel. The turbocharged Saab's sophisticated Trionic engine-control system dialed the power back 9.8 percent on regular gas, and performance dropped 10.1 percent at the track. Burning regular in our BMW M3 diminished track performance by 6.6 percent, but neither the BMW nor the Saab suffered any drivability problems while burning regular unleaded fuel...."


    "Cheapskates burning regular in cars designed to run on premium fuel can expect to trim performance by about the same percent they save at the pump. If the car is sufficiently new and sophisticated, it may not suffer any ill effects, but all such skinflints should be ready to switch back to premium at the first sign of knock or other drivability woes.

    Good luck (me thinks you will need it!). ;)
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    You wrote:
    "The owner's manual states "..... If engine oil viscosity grade SAE 5W-40 is not available, you can also use SAE 5W-30." The next paragraph discusses the designations that must appear on the container - VW500 oo, etc. The oil I bought had the API Service SJ designation, which is shown in the manual. There is no mention of synthetic oil. "

    You need to pick up the latest brochure at the dealer on this very topic. It's pretty darn adamant that 502.00 spec oil must be used in all 1.8T engines from 1998 through 2004. That means synthetic, BTW. It goes on to say you can use non-compliant oil but only up to a half quart, if no other oil is available and the dipstick is at or below the bottom of the crosshatch section. This supersedes the owner's manual.
  • krzysskrzyss Member Posts: 849
    I think you are quoting unammended version of users manual.
    VW sent a letter to owners of 1.8T Passats that stats that only 502.00 (?) spec oils could be used. It happens that this list has mostly 5W40 and 0W40 oils (1 or 2 5W30 if I am not mistaken) but no 5W20 is present.

    So ...
    VW does not say that you need synthetic oil but the only oils that meet VW spec are synthetic ones.

  • krzysskrzyss Member Posts: 849
    by just 3 minutes ;-)

  • fish8fish8 Member Posts: 2,282
    You can quote the owners manual all day long.....but, bottom line is, VW has updated the owners manual with supplemental material along with letters to ALL 1.8t owners which clearly states that if you do not use the synthetic oil VW recommends, oil sludge damage will NOT BE COVERED. So, sure, you can go by what your outdated owners manual says, but when (and it will) your lights on your dash start blinking and flashing giving you a warning, be prepared to fork over allot of money for a new engine. Because VW will not uphold your extended engine warranty.

    So, you asked, why would I be willing to spend more money of premium gas and Synthetic oil? Cause thats what VW recommends for my car to run the way it was engineered to run.

    No need to apologize (not that you have) just sounds as though you are a little under informed. Hopefully, we have helped you become a more informed Passat owner.

    I do have a question for you........why do YOU think VW recommends Synthetic and premium gas in there 1.8t cars? Do you think it is just to cause the owners to spend more $$??

    Good luck
  • japherjapher Member Posts: 10
    Yes, apparently I am under informed on the oil issue. I picked up my Passat on 2 October, 2004. It is an '04 model. I was not advised of the synthetic oil issue at that time, nor have I received any correspondence from VW. That's too bad and does not reflect well on VW.

    Thanks for the information. My next oil change will be with the VW specified synthetic.

    Have they fixed the issue for the 2005 model year?

    Thanks for all the comments on the regular/premium gas as well.
  • fish8fish8 Member Posts: 2,282
    You're welcome!!

    Unfortunately, there really isn't an issue to fix. I am sure, from now on, VW will specify synthetic oil for the remaining current style Passats and the new body style Passat's with the 2.0t engine. From the beginning, VW should of specified Syn oil over standard Dino oil. Good luck with your Passat and enjoy!!!
  • mrjettemrjette Member Posts: 122
    I really wish VW would simply stamp "Synthetic Oil Only" in the plastic cover on top of the engine! Mine says "TDI" already, and looks quite nice. Stamp it in 1 inch letters next to the oil fill cap. I assume each engine has a customized cover, so it could be specified by engine requirements.

    Then, this entire issue would be put to rest! :)
  • japherjapher Member Posts: 10
    I didn't answer your question in your final paragraph.

    On the gas issue, I think there are a couple of likely explanations:


    If you want to maximize the performance of your Passat, premium is necessary. I think the gain is marginal, but I don't argue that it isn't there. Now I am not in the habit of racing my Passat, and rarely do I feel a need to eke out every last bit of acceleration as I pull away from the stop light or merge on to the highway. But, if this is important to you, then by all means, buy premium.


    Please don't be too quick to dismiss this, because I believe a person would have to be a little naive to think it isn't considered by the manufacturer. Marketing considerations are the prime consideration for corporate decision making.

    A car in which premium is the recommended fuel will indicate to at least some buyers, that it has a sophistication beyond the competition that requires only regular. VW prides itself on its German engineering, and part of that means a more state of the art powerplant. State of the art powerplants must require premium - so goes the thinking.

    I am NOT arguing that there is no benefit to using premium. But I am skeptical that it is worth the additional cost for the average driver. My own experience supports this line of thinking.

    As for the oil issue, I didn't know that VW recommended synthetics until I read it in this forum. VW did not communicate it to me.

    That being said, I do think the level of concern expressed in this forum may be a wee bit exaggerated. Having done a little research, I find that the number of vehicles that have actually experienced the oil sludge problem is some small fraction of one percent. Most of those vehicles did not have their oil changed at the recommended intervals. Perhaps this number will go up as the effected group of cars age.

    And having said that, yes, I plan to switch to synthetics for future oil changes. Synthetics offer other advantages beyond the elimination of the sludge factor - decreased engine friction with a small operating efficiency increase and perhaps a slightly longer life. As I tend to keep my cars for long periods - 10 or 12 years, this is important to me.

    By education and profession I am an engineer. Rarely do I accept things at face value. I want to go deeper and understand the reasons beneath the surface. Life would be less complicated if accepted everything that I was told, or that I read, but that is not my nature.

  • klh3klh3 Member Posts: 18
    Well said,
    I put premium in my 05 Passat GLX V6 because that is whats recommended which is $3.00 more per tank then regular.
    Which equals:
    $2.20 Haagen-dazs Almond Bar
    $3.20 Starbucks
    $2.25 Happy hour well drink
    $5.33 #2 In-Out Burger
    in the big picture of things it's really no more than what I throw away elsewhere.
    just my $.03 :)
  • minamoraminamora Member Posts: 5
    Hi! A local dealer is advertising a 1999 VW GLS V6 passat (68k mi). The asking price is $8,999, although I want $8,000 incl. TTL if everything "looks good."

    The CARFAX shows no problems; only one owner. All service documented. Edmunds has ~$7,300 FMV trade-in/~$10,600 retail. Does this look like a good buy?
    This is my first car purchase, and I don't want to get fleeced.

    Also: When do you say, "could I take this car to my mechanic to have it checked out first?"

  • ihatevwpassatihatevwpassat Member Posts: 2
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    #7749 of 7750 Re: 06 passat- a no show [markcincinnati] by altair4 Apr 04, 2005 (1:24 pm)
    Bookmark | Reply

    ...And don't forget to factor in the steep decline in the value of the dollar versus the Euro. It's going to make all European assembled cars more expensive.

    #7750 of 7750 money pit passat by ihatevwpassat Apr 04, 2005 (2:42 pm)
    Bookmark | Reply | Edit | Delete

    I am here to advise EVERYONE to STAY AWAY from purchase of a Passat. It is a highly expensive pile of junk!!!

    I am so angry that I am ready to drive my '99 Passat thru a dealership window.
    It has bled me dry in the 3 years I have had it (bought it from a dealer w/ 32,000miles on it) in SPITE of how carefully and dutifully I have taken care of it. The problems started the second year of ownership and I now have 92,000 miles on it.

    I am the only driver. I don't drive it in rush hour traffic (I live in a sparsley populated area and am close to work.)
    Over half the miles are freeway drives on the weekend.

    And STILL it is constantly breaking down----computer resets (4x in 3 yrs.)or part replacements. For instance, in the last 12 months ALONE I have had these expensive repairs:

    1.Control Arms (no, VW has not remimbursed me for this repair I had done b-4 the recall)
    3. Oil Leak
    4. Temperature Sensor
    5.Ignition Module

    There must be others out there w/ just as lousy an experience.....and I even owned 2 different air-cooled VW vans from the 70's which ran FAR BETTER than this in spite of going 120,000 miles in each one!!!!!

    I can't afford to NOT repair it since I can't sell it this way but I can't afford another car either as my down payment has been spent on repairs. OOOOOOO, I am so angry!

  • krzysskrzyss Member Posts: 849
    shame on you !


  • vicki2vicki2 Member Posts: 2
    It sat at the dealer for a week before it leaked and they found out it is a cracked "water flange". Said that after it leaked, there was a chalky residue left on it even after the liquid evaporated, but that in driving it over there, that would blow away so there was no trace of it. The reason it didn't show up on the pressure tests (they say) is that the pressure closes the "flange" all the way instead of forcing the fluid out. The guy who finally found it (they called in a "Euro Expert" :P , whatever that is), said that it is a fairly common problem with European cars (wonder why the VW dealer didn't realize it, then?) but hard to diagnose because it only happens intermittently.
    Weird, but I thought I'd follow up on this, in case someone else has the problem.
  • chase99chase99 Member Posts: 1
    Where can I find info on the control arm recall you are referring to? When did it come in to place?

  • aussiecateaussiecate Member Posts: 1
    I am hoping someone can help me know what to do. I have a 2000 Passat, GLS that has been a really big lemon. Since I bought it 16 months ago, with only 30,000 miles on it, I have spent over $1300 fixing the emissions, have replaced the rear brakes and rotors and now have three lights flashing on the dashboard ASR, ABS and Brake - all at the same time. I took it to the dealer and was charged $180 to be told that they don't know what the problem is, and to bring it back this week. They tell me it is safe to drive, but most of the time I am now driving with a red light on the dash telling me to STOP due to BRAKE FAILURE. I am sick of pouring out money on this car!!
    Has anybody else had this problem, and can you suggest possible solutions?
  • djcdjc Member Posts: 10
    I read a message the other day about someone (in Florida I think) that refurbs ABS Modules for the Passat. A phone number was given in the message. I can't find it now - can anyone point me to the message #?
  • ajpalaajpala Member Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a 2001 VW Passat GLS automatic with the turbo engine. I purchased from a non-VW dealership. After driving for a while, I noticed that the acceleration from stopping into first was very abrupt. I took this in and they indicated that this is not an issue, just German turbo engine. "Try pressing the pedal down harder." However, the acceleration is very jerky and feels like a transmission issue. The change is not abrupt from other gears - 2 to 3, etc. Just on initial acceleration. It's very uncomfortable.

    Does anyone have a similar issue or know what is the problem?
  • lexielexie Member Posts: 45
    I experienced similar problem with my 2001 Cavalier on three separate occasions and they all involved jerking, lunging and shifting gear between first and second gear. Below is roughly $4000 to $5000 of worth of repair :lemon: Most of it was covered by warranty but I hope that these are not your problems.

    Overdrive torn - replaced tranny
    Radiator crack and leaking fluid into the transmission causing it not to build pressure - almost required a new tranny.
    Body valve and shift solenoid need serving.
  • cosmocosmo Member Posts: 203
    Go to Search in Edmunds Forums Volkswagen Passat Discussions and enter "tiptronic lag". This may be what you are experiencing. markcincinnati's posts on this topic are very informative.
  • dickiedriverdickiedriver Member Posts: 2
    we owned a passat 1.8T basic model 1998-2002 which we loved except for the front seat comfort. Since 2002 we drive an audi a6 quattro which has beautiful front seats- otherwise the passat was more fun to drive. So, does the passat GLX 4 motion have audi seats or passat seats in front?
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