Volkswagen Passat Maintenance and Repair



  • huffy46huffy46 Member Posts: 2
    I drive 100 highway miles per day and the shaking might happen just once during the trip. I had one occasion when I had two but this is rare. I drive in a slightly hilly area, but nothing very steep. I cannot for certain tell you if this happens going uphill or in a flat area. I do drive an automatic. I the past two days I haven't noticed any shaking. Thanks
  • fixup_99fixup_99 Member Posts: 1
    Should I be doing this at the dealer (too expensive) vs any other mechanic?
  • jimstumbojimstumbo Member Posts: 3
    I had mine done at a local car shop that specializes in foreign cars. Much cheaper than the dealer. Had all of the front suspension replaced right before that. Spent around $3000 for the suspension and the timing belt. 13 days later, someone rear ended me and totaled the car. Insurance company gave me nothing for the $3000 I had spent on all the repairs less than 2 weeks before. :mad: :cry:
  • bjssbjss Member Posts: 51
    Hi all - have a Burning Oil smell coming through vents, particularly strong when stopped and idling. Just had Valve cover gasket replaced (as apparently it was leaking). Now it must be something else leaking oil (none on floor, but must be hitting manifold). Plan to take back to dealer, however, any other thoughts on what it might be? Assuming dealer will say it's not the Valve cover gasket. 02, Passat wagon, 1.8T, 75K.
  • edu6edu6 Member Posts: 1
    The water comes from the engine compartment,take the cover panel close to the windshield,under the hood.Below the wiper motor there is a drain hole,has to be clean so water will not accumulate and filter inside the car.The space that you have to work is very small,but not impossible to reach,after the first time you will see how easy you can fix that problem.I understand it happens to many VW ,specially the ones are parked under trees.I hope this info can help you ,Ed
  • stoopidstoopid Member Posts: 1
    I've been told my enough people now that starters are easy to replace that I'm going to try it. I have a 2003 Passat 1.8T, I'm pretty sure I've located it, but haven't found any information online to verify it.

    Does anyone have a quick second to help me identify the starter and advise me on how to remove it? I'm pretty strapped right now, otherwise I'd go buy a Chilton's book.

  • blitzg99blitzg99 Member Posts: 12
    I have a 2003 VW Passat with 66k miles on it. The last few days I noticed that the oil temperature gauge fluctuates a bit between 170 and 190. Earlier it always used to stay constant at 190 after the engine has been running for some time. Last few days I see that it goes to 190 and then keeps changes between 170 and 190.

    Is this something of concern and needs to be fixed immediately.Any helpful comments will be greatly appreciated.

  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    First, that's not the oil temperature gauge - it's the coolant temperature.

    Now, let's get a little more information to help you. What is the car doing when the gauge drops? Are you coasting down a hill? Are you at highway speeds and see it gradually drop?

    As I see it, you have two possibilities - 1) the temperature sensor for the gauge is bad (it happens on Passats). 2) the thermostat is bad.

    I have an '03. I started to notice that the temperature of the air from the heater was not the "melt your sneaker" hot anymore. Further, I noticed that this was occurring at highway speeds, but even worse if I coasted down a hill at highway speeds. Turned out my thermostat was sticking open ever so slightly.

    GIve more details of when and how this is occurring and I'll bet we can narrow it down for you.
  • blitzg99blitzg99 Member Posts: 12

    Thanks . You're right. It is the coolant temperature gauge that fluctuates.Once the engine warms up it reaches 190 then goes down a bit to 170 and then stays between 170,180 - 190. It happens on both highway or local roads. We are in the Twin Cities and do not have much hilly roads up here. Earlier it always used to stay at 190 constant after running for a few minutes.

    I have not seen much of a difference in the temp. of the heated air but will pay more attention now that you mentioned. Does this require immediate attention.

    Thanks in advance for your help. Appreciate it.
  • krzysskrzyss Member Posts: 849
    Mine does the same thing.
    It stays 190 but when coasting down hill it drops one notch. When I start using power again it climbs back.
    I got MIL (check engine light) and per Auto Zone it is cooling system efficiency problem.

    Do you think broken thermostat could do this?

  • blitzg99blitzg99 Member Posts: 12
    I am not sure what the problem is. Could be the thermostat. I talked to the service guys at the local VW dealer who said it will not need immediate attention. What are you doing about this? Pls. let me know,


  • vwdawgvwdawg Member Posts: 162
    bjss: I had same issue on my Jetta 2.0, but the problem turned out to be a leaky oil sender unit. Not sure it that would be the same with the 1.8, but take a look. I think the dealer may have done the wrong repair...a 1.8 with 75k should be not leaking through the valve cover, but I suppose it's possible. Good luck...vwdawg
  • vwdawgvwdawg Member Posts: 162
    This seems to be an old forum item, but I see Ed responded recently. My understanding re: water leaking into the floor area is that it's usually a plugged drain for the sunroof. Water will soak the into the floor carpeting and ruin the computer module which is mounted under the carpet. Ed, is this the same drain you are talking about? I'm not sure how the ABS was ruined, but I quess anything's possible with a VW. vw dawg
  • bjssbjss Member Posts: 51
    Thanks vwdawg - ended up taking it to an Independent VW shop for some additional work (rear brakes/rotors) and asked him to look at the Valve Cover Gasket. He showed me and it was clear the work was not done (cover was dirty with oil and fairly obvious it had not been removed). Work was done last Dec and I have only driven it 700 miles since then. If it was done, it clearly would be in much 'cleaner' shape.
    Took back to Dealer today to have them check the burning oil smell and possible leak...will not spring the independent shop on them until after I hear the verdict.
    BTW - while the car was on the lift (at independent shop), I noticed some Hydralic fluid leaking from the motor mounts - not excessive, but something to be handled within the next year. :mad:
  • bjssbjss Member Posts: 51
    Update - Dealer called, said it was a faulty Valve Cover Gasket...replacing with new today...avoided a potentially nasty situation :)
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469

    All I can tell you is that was the behavior of my car and the thermostat was found to be sticking open ever so slightly. Once it was replaced, I the Temp gauge behaved as it always did and the heat output of the HVAC returned to thermonuclear levels.

    Initially, I noticed the car's interior wasn't getting as warm as it used to on the same settings, same external ambient temperature range. Then I started noticing the gauge would slip a notch or so on long coasts downhill (we got lots of hills here in SW PA).

    The day I took it into get repaired, the ambient temp was -1 degree F. It was the first really cold day of the winter last year. I was very glad I had heated seats that day. The cabin just wouldn't warm up very much.

    Driving home from the dealer, the temp was 10 degrees F. I took my parka off after a couple of miles of driving.
  • krzysskrzyss Member Posts: 849
    Thermostat is cheap enough fix (I think) that I will ask mechanic to do this.

    My temperature gauge used to dance before the sender unit was replaced during the recall. However it was different dance. It was going from 190 all the way to the left (cold) and then back to 190.

  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    I looked at my spreadsheet of maintenance and repair reocrds - looks like the thermostat R&R cost $180 (thermostat, gasket & coolant) back in December of 2008 for my 2003 1.8T. The car had 58,011 miles on it at the time of repair. Good luck with yours.
  • biomajor4biomajor4 Member Posts: 2
    Hey guys,

    I am a recent college grad with a 2003 1.8T AUTO Passat that I've had since high school. Frankly, I am in love with everything about the car...except reliability (of course). I have read most of these Edmunds pages to know there are many troubled Passats and came to the conclusion that I would just explain my car's situation and see what everyone's thoughts were.

    Had absolutely no problems until at 60,000 miles, dealer fixed an oil leak and replaced the cam tensioner seals and valve cover gaskets.

    Now at 72,000 miles. Recently went to the dealer for ignition coil recall. During the complimentary inspection they told me the FR/RT CV boot needed to be replaced as well as the serpentine belt. My car started to make a squealing noise in the dash when the heat is on and I figure that is why?

    I figure if I pay to have the serpentine belt replaced I might as well doing the timing belt/water pump kit as well. (Thanks edmunds forums!)

    KBB value of my car is $3700. CV boot + new tires + Timing belt + Water pump is maybe $1500 in Chicago.

    Should I do all these repairs and cross my fingers the car holds up or dump it while I'm ahead?

    The car handles like a dream and at I have yet to drive a car that rode as well or that I comfortably fit in (6'4" with no sunroof).

    If you think I should replace it, can anyone recommend a replacement car they've found is similar to the Passat?

    I'm tired of being worried to take my car long distances and face a large financial decision so any advice would be a huge benefit. Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    You have no choice. You are already pushing your luck to the max with the timing belt on this engine. Personally I wouldn't drive it another 100 miles until this were done.
  • chuckhansonchuckhanson Member Posts: 16
    I have a 2005 Passat TDI Station Wagon. I have 99,700 miles on it. I have no idea what it could be sold for. I judge the value to me based on the cost per mile of operation and reliability (ready when I am). I am totally satisfied with this car and will purchase a new one for my wife when she decides to trade her 1999 Audi A6, which I don't expect to be too soon since it only has 91,000 miles on it.

    Thus far I replaced the timing belt and water pump as recommended at 90,000 miles, CV boots and tires at 70,000 miles. Brake pads and belts have not been changed since inspection shows them to still be in good condition. In addition to this there was a recall on a break light switch that was taken care of on one of the routine maintenance stops. Gossett VW in Germantown, TN has provided all oil changes and repairs. The maintenance above has been scheduled and I have had no down time on the car.

    On the highway the car gets 40+ miles per gallon and 32 in the city. At $2.60 per gallon for diesel the cost per mile is $0.065 per mile. Maintenance including oil changes has been $0.033 per mile. This is a total cost of $098 per mile not counting the cost of the initial investment. I paid $20,000 for the car at the end of 2005. Amortizing this over 200,000 miles will equate to another $0.10 per mile. The cost of insurance has been $700 per year for 4 years (99,700 miles) or $0.028 per mile. The total cost at 200,000 miles will be $0.226 per mile. I consider this to be an acceptable cost for a good quality car. This brief analysis demonstrates that the capital cost of a car is by far the largest cost and can only be minimized by amortizing the cost over a lot of miles. Maintenance is cheap in comparison. In this day of rising fuel cost, one must really question the wisdom of owing huge cars that consume 93 octane gasoline running at 12 miles per gallon.

    What is your experience with the TDI?

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    edited February 2010
    Sounds to me like now is a very good time to make these transitions---TDI resale is generally very good right now, especially if you don't run up the miles anymore. The Audi at 99K is also ripe for trade IMO, and the new TDI Sport Wagon is a pretty nice rig.

    I'm basing this opinion on the presumption, which of course can be challenged, that running two German cars over 100K and out of warranty is somewhat risky.
  • vwdawgvwdawg Member Posts: 162
    hello bio: I own the same vehicle, except it's a 2002. Great handling, styling and ride, but a host of annoying problems, including constant CEL, front suspension, CV boots, coils, etc. Mine has 77k, so I've been thinking about that timing belt change, as Shiftright mentions. I've owned five VWs, and I've lost some faith in the brand due to my Passat experience. I didn't even mention the potential for oil sludging. Be sure you always use the VW-approved oil spec such as Mobil 1 0W-40 or similar, or you could be in for major engine trouble. I think you may have already answered your own question when you said you're "tired of being worried to take my car long distances". That's not a good thing for a $25,000-30,000 vehicle with only 72k miles. I would say go with a Camry or Accord, but you might die of boredom! How about a an Acura TL or an Infinity GSX? Asian dependability with some zip, although the fuel economy won't be quite the same. Good luck. wvdawg
  • campermancamperman Member Posts: 53
    I agree; Biomajor has answered his own question. I have no faith in my Passat and have had it for sale for 2 months. Can't even get anyone interested in looking at it. I finally got tired of worrying about it so I bought a new Nissan. If I can't find a buyer in next month I'll give it away. Interesting that we find some cars boring and others exciting. The Passat is one of the most boring cars I have ever owned and is the most unreliable and most expensive cars to repair I have ever owned. I will never own another.If someone wants a reliable car which won't bore you to death take a look at the Nissan 370Z. But get the stick shift and you know you will be driving a fun car.
    I wish the Saab was still available with a good company in the background. The Saab with a manual shift was the best car I ever owned and there was nothing boring about that car.
    Good luck to all who own Passats.
  • vwdawgvwdawg Member Posts: 162
    Hi Chuck: I owned a 2005 Jetta TDI wagon for a bit under three years, and it proved to be the best of the five VWs I have owned. It's hard to complain about 42-44 MPG highway mileage. Unfortunately, with four kids in college and private high school, I just got tired of a $500/month car payment, so I sold it with around 55k miles, and for a very decent selling price. Other than a couple of warranty items (one new wheel bearing and replacement of defective window mechanisms), I never had to do anything other than change the oil. My understanding is that the Passat and Jetta TDI engines typically run a long time without major repairs (as long as you use the correct, VW-spec oil!). Since I only had mine for 55k, I guess I can't verify that, but my experience with the Jetta was extremely positive. Good luck! vwdawg
  • hsilv58hsilv58 Member Posts: 2
    I just leased a 2010 Passat and immediately found that water poured out of all 4 doors after a rain causing all passengers to get their feet wet. I took the car to a dealer and the service rep and the mechanic witnessed the problem and also tested another car with the same result, only to be told that there was no fix for it, therefore the car is considered to be working as designed and that I must learn to live with it.
    I truly do not believe that the President of VW and the chief designer would allow their family to be subjected to this kind of treatment and would make sure that a solution would be found quickly for loyal VW owner.(My 3rd. VW)
    This situation is more than just water coming out of the doors:
    1. Water coming out of the doors getting your feet wet.
    2. I live in Ga and temperature goes below 32 degrees and water will freeze in the doors. What happens to the workings to the windows and other working parts???
    3. Rust and mildew can form.
    Has anyone also found the same problem with their Passat or any other VW???
    Please advise.
    Thank you
  • biomajor4biomajor4 Member Posts: 2
    Did you go with the 370z, camperman?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    You mean water is IN the doors, and it comes out the bottom when you open them? Or do you mean that when you open the doors, water drips off the roof and onto your feet?

    If you see a substantial amount of water IN the doors, then either the squeegee (rubber horizontal seal that seals the window as it rolls into the door) is defective or misaligned, or the moisture barriers inside the door might have been forgotten at the factory.

    Bizarre situation on a new car I must say. Doors do have drains for very *tiny* amouts of water that might accumulate but this kind of water intrusion is simply not right.
  • campermancamperman Member Posts: 53
    Not yet. I am reorganizing things for retirement and will be selling 2 VW's, house and 40 years of accumulated "stuff". I was looking for something with manual shift to tow behind my motorhome but I just couldn't see a 370Z back there collecting road dirt and stone chips. And it didn't think a tow hitch on the front would be an improvement. I hope sometime through the summer once all the dust settles, that the 370 will magically appear in the driveway of a new house.
  • vwdawgvwdawg Member Posts: 162
    hsilv: Unbelievable story...something obviously out of whack here. This dealer should be fired on the spot...find another one that actually takes pride in the VW brand. "Live with it"? What a crock of s--t! If this is VW corporate's position on this problem, it looks like they don't have any interest in repairing the dismal reputation of the Passat. My understandilng is that VW uses computer modules under the front seat carpeting. If that's true, you'll soon be having some major electrical issues when the moisture destroys those electronics. Good're going to need it. vwdawg
  • watkinstwatkinst Member Posts: 119
    Subaru Legacy everything the Passat wanted to be. Coworker bought his 01 passat the same week I bought my 01 GT legacy. Legacy has been to the shop 3 times in 160,000 miles- not counting oil changes. It even towed a small boat all over the West coast for 5 of those years.

    The passat has been in the shop every 6 months and has 70,000 miles on it. He loves the car but is tired of bumming rides to the dealer to pick it up :-)

    If it makes you feel any better the new VW's are way better than the pre 2005's

    My wife has the 1.8t - Jetta terrible engine but we'll probably replace it with a new TDI Jetta way better car!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    So your Legacy didn't blow the head gaskets?
  • watkinstwatkinst Member Posts: 119
    Nope - the issue your referring too is an external gasket leak which Subaru corrected in all affected cars overnight at no cost to the owners. I had a minor leak at 80,000 miles out of warranty and Subaru fixed no questions asked and had the car ready 7am the next morning after a 3pm drop off. That was 80,000 miles ago not a issue since.

    Pre -2000 engines had other HG issues crop up at high miles then again my old Toyota went through three head gaskets before I sold it.

    The 2005 and newer VW's are light years better than they were pre 2005. Wifes 2001 jetta looks new just broke 55,000 miles - its been a disaster doors coming loose - rattles from loose interior brackets - coilpack failures - leaks. Failed idle sensor which stranded us etc - etc.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Yeah, failure rate on Subie headgaskets up to about 2001 was close to epidemic proportions. They install improved gaskets and recommend a coolant additive. Most 2.5L in these year ranges will blow the gaskets around 130K or so, almost for sure. Few escape but some do.

    Passats of course (used ones) we have to watch timing belts and sludging.
  • watkinstwatkinst Member Posts: 119
    Keep in mind that this was an external leak - not an internal "blown gasket" very - very big difference!

    The leak was external meaning coolant leaking out of the head down the side of the engine and onto the ground. Not into the engine where it damages cylinder heads and such like a "blown Head gasket" does.

    This took place from around 99 to 2001due to the gasket used.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    edited February 2010
    Not so big a difference. I still had to haul the engine out, external leak or no, even though you can do it in the car. And by the time many drivers noticed the coolant leak, the coolant was gone, and with a severe overheat you really have to peek inside the engine---so pull it, freshen the heads, etc.

    That's the thing with these weaknesses we see in various cars---if not addressed immediately, they turn into far worse things. Would I stretch a Passat timing belt to the very limits of lifespan? No way. Would I neglect to use synthetic oil in the turbo engine? No way.
  • watkinstwatkinst Member Posts: 119
    edited February 2010
    Yes most people don't go poking around when they smell coolant but they sure get all bent out of shape when their car goes up in a cloud of smoke in the middle of rush hour traffic.

    I had a heater hose fail on my landcruiser it took me nearly a day to figure out where the heck the coolant was coming from. Took me another 3hrs to fix it with $10 worth of parts. It could have been a full engine replacement easily if I didn't notice and check the coolant.

    New fancy high tech cars with plastic covers over the complicated bits under the hood are no different you still need to pay attention to them. Though most people get ticked off when something small goes from no big deal to really big deal in a hurry.
  • pdstcorbinpdstcorbin Member Posts: 4
  • pdstcorbinpdstcorbin Member Posts: 4
    My Passat doesn't seem to ride as nice as it used to. It even squeeks over bumps. I'm assuming I might need to replace the struts and shocks and maybe the monts. The car has 52K miles and that seems a bit soon to me to replace these suspension parts. Does anyone know of a good place to buy the parts at a reasonable price?
  • dvwdvw Member Posts: 5
  • dvwdvw Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2008 2.0T Lux (dual auto climate control), and I've noticed this winter that I can feel very slight, gentle occasional wafts of cold air against my face while driving at higher speeds (45+) when the heat is on. It seems to happen regardless of whether or not the engine temp is hot or cold. Front passengers have noticed it, too. If you place your hand by either the dash vents or the windscreen (defog/defrost) vents, you can't feel anything at all - very bizzare. Otherwise, the heat works fine. The only thing I've tried is manually turning off the auto defog A/C - no effect.
    Anyone else?
  • jnharris49jnharris49 Member Posts: 1
    Interesting someone earlier mentioned the Thermostat replacement cost is $180. I have the exact same issue as you (back and forth betwwen 190 and 0) on my 2000 Passat Wagon and my mechanic says it's an 8 hour job!! He says you have to go throught the timing belt to replace it. I have no clue.
  • campermancamperman Member Posts: 53
    I believe I mentioned the cost of the thermostat was $180. My mechanic wouldn't even estimate the cost of labour but said he would likely have to carve out the best part of a day. He told me to forget it. I was not prepared to put another $500 + into this junk heap. I have driven 5,000 mi since then. But the car is for sale and I hope nothing else goes wrong while it just sits in the driveway waiting for a buyer.
  • krzysskrzyss Member Posts: 849
    Thermostat replacement seems to fix wandering needle (190 -> 170 -> 190).
    Cost with oil change (my own filter and oil) ~182.00.
    1.5 hour job per my mechanic claim,

    Thanks for solution.

  • emanuele1emanuele1 Member Posts: 5
    i am an owner of 2006 VW passat. this is my second passat i leased an 04 passat and never had a problem and i loved it. this 2006 problems is never ending, it only has less 29000 miles and wipers have broken everytime it snow and frozen rain. i call VW becasue i wanted extended warrenty on the wipers. there response was the wipers are not made to be USE IN FROZEN RAIN OR SNOW. i could not believe what i was hearing. so i told her what happens when i drive the car and it starts snowing, her response was pull over until it stops. i talk service mgr and he told me 60% of VW have this problem. my second issue is the EPC light always goes on, and dealer always tells me story have the car is driven hard. i told the only has less 29000 miles and all my services is done at your dealership. the driver of the call is my 64 year old mother. i research these problems and i found it is very common, but VW answer is retarded about the wipers. i expected better from a germay company, but i rather have toyota cars in future atleast they are working with the owners.
  • krzysskrzyss Member Posts: 849
    If your windshield is 32F or colder water will solidify into ice and any wipers will have problem removing it.
    Do you turn on heat and blast it into windshield during such weather?

  • chuckhansonchuckhanson Member Posts: 16
    The experience you had with your 04 is the same that I am having with my 2005. As I posted before, my experience is that this is the best car I have ever had. My car has spent its share of time in Chicago during the dead of winter. I was expecting real problems with the diesel but didn't have any. Sure it makes more noise when you start it at 20 below zero but when it warms up it is ok. I learned to select deicing fluid that matches the weather conditions.

    The first time I drove to Chicago from Memphis in the winter the whole windshield washer system froze. I put it in the garage and let it thaw, drained the fluid and replaced with the proper fluid, flushed all the lines and filled it again. No problems after that. It is important to turn your wipers off before you leave the car and don't turn them on again until your windshield is free of ice.

    If you take these precautions, you should not have problems.

    Chuck Hanson
  • vwdawgvwdawg Member Posts: 162
    emanuele: As Chuck says, don't leave your wipers on when you turn off the car. Also, even more importantly, when you use your Passat on winter mornings, and there is snow or ice on the windshield, be sure to BREAK THE WIPER BLADES FREE from the windshield. Failure to do this is what blows fuses and damages motors and wiper mechanisms. Regarding the VW comment that the "wipers are not made to be USE IN FROZEN RAIN OR SNOW", I'm not what that person actually said, but ff they truly meant this, then VW should not be selling cars in cold weather states. They might as well say "Shut up and deal with it, because that's the way our cars are made"...not the first outrageous comment from VW that I have heard. I own a 2002 Passat, the fifth VW I have had, not to mention one of the worst vehicles I have owned. My four Jettas were good cars (2005 TDI was one of the best!), but the Passat has really soured me on the VW will be awhile before I buy another one. Good luck...VW Dawg
  • bronsonbbronsonb Member Posts: 170
    Ok - so I have a bit of a long saga, but I'll try to make it brief. Our 1999 Passat V6 has 150,000 miles and have become our backup airport car.

    My wife took the Passat for an airport trip a week ago. All was fine for the drive down, and I had driven the car the entire week before the trip, and it was fine all week. She left the lights on in the parking lot, and when she returned two days later, the car was dead. The parking lot attendant gave her a jump start, and although the car started quickly, the idle was VERY rough.

    She tried driving it, and it was very herky jerky, and she brought it back to the parking lot as she was afraid to get on the highway. We eventually had it towed to our home.

    I started poking around and found that first off, the battery was shot. It was bone dry in three cells and had low water in three others. I filled it up, and although I could jump start it, it would not hold a charge.

    I replaced the battery yesterday, and now the car starts OK but then wants to stall almost immediately. If I rev it up a little, I can get it to idle, very roughly, at around 700 - 800 RPMs. It often wants to stall. If I rev it a few times, I am able to get it to idle roughly but then it will run for a good 20 - 30 minutes. If I shut it off, it will again start back up , so I think the alternator is OK.

    Anyway, if I attempt to rev the engine, around 1400 - 1600 RPMs, it starts "porpoising" revs high/low --up to 1800...down to 1600...again and again and again, unless I really rev it up to 3000 or 4000 RPMs.

    I checked all of the spark plug wires, and they are all plugged in well (unplugged and replugged each one). We are, of course, getting a check engine light (steady on) but no other lights.

    I tried driving it around the block, and I can't get it over 25 MPH without it going all herky-jerky again. And it wants to stall at each stop sign. So I am afraid to drive it to an auto parts store to get the codes read. But I might just try that if nothing else works. I added some gas treatment, and I am getting some black gunk out of the tail pipe, but the idle has not improved.

    To add to the mystery, when I was testing the alternator and new battery yesterday, I noticed that neither the AC nor the radio now work. Both worked fine before. The fan works, and the light on the AC button comes on, but no cold air (it was 75 degrees yesterday when I checked). Radio is completely dead -- no "SAFE" notice or request to enter the radio PIN since I changed out the battery.

    So I am stumped. A neighbor says he has a friend who might be able to loan me a code reader, but I am wondering if all of the problems are related (rough idle, AC out, radio out) or if it's just a series of failures. I didn't witness how the guy jump started the car, so I don't know if he did it right or if he might have fried something in the process.

    So...any ideas? I don't want to invest a lot in this car. We were just going to keep it because the trade value was so lousy. If I can't get it fixed inexpensively, I will donate it to an organization that fixes up cars for the needy.

    Any advice or ideas will be appreciated. Thanks all.
  • chuckhansonchuckhanson Member Posts: 16
    Well unfortunately this may not be just a VW Passat problem. My wife has a 1999 Audi A6 (a very similiar car to the Passat). The car was in the body shop getting some dings removed. The battery ran down and the shop person jumped the battery and burned up the throttle body. About a thousand dollars later it was a good as new. The symptons you describe are similiar to hers.

    On another occasion the same car developed a leak in a seal somewhere around the rocker arm covers. These seals prevent oil from leaking into the spark plug well. When we had the plugs removed they were sitting in a pool of oil that finally soaked the spark wires and they stopped conducting. Car ran rough like you described. I managed to get it to the shop and 600 dollars later it was a good as new.

    Hope you find an inexpensive solution.

    Chuck Hanson
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