Pontiac Grand Prix: Problems & Solutions

chaser499

I have a 99' GTP Sedan, and can't stand the bad ride, so I had a local mechanic change out the factory struts and mounts. But still don't see much of a difference. Is there any suggestions as to what type or brand of struts to by? I'm not looking to lower the car, just would like to have a more comfortable ride. Thank you.

pontiac97

What is the most miles anyone has seen this motor and trans go without any MAJOR repairs? Major meaning, opening the motor or trans up?

pontiac97

I replaced all 4 struts and mounts at 143,000 in july of 2002 on my 97, and used MONROE, i've used monroe for the past 20 years for shocks and struts and never had a problem, they always seem to have a good warrenty as well. basically no questions asked, just have reciept and upc flap from boxs.

blupanther

I just bought a used Grand Prix with 78000 miles on it. I have noticed that it shifts hard when I drive it and am worried that it might indicate a problem with the intake manifold. The mechanic does not hear anything so we are in an endless round robin of no solutions. Anyone with any experience with this (when the gears change, it makes a little jerking motion like it is shifting hard - hope that helps make it clear) please help!

mrrogers

Change your transmission fluid and filter. Since you can't get all the fluid out the first time, drive the car 1,000 miles and change your transmission fluid and filter again.

If you like the car, upgrade to synthetic transmission fluid. This should put you back in business. Let us know how you make out. Good luck.

blupanther

Thank you so much!

pontiac97

I agree change fluid, my 97 seems to do the same, at times, it doesn't shift hard just shutters around 30-40mph but have not had any problems and iam at 206,000. After 150,000 i change fluid and filter every 25,000 (apprx.every 10 months)using regular fluid, never used synthetic though??

rwhowes

Hi

My 2000 Grand Prix GT is doing the same thing. Talked to some boys in the business and the story is the same, the transmission is dying. What is happening is that their is a leak, valve, seal, bushing..., inside the tranny and the computer is picking up that the pressure has dropped inside of the tranny, it then tells the pump to increase pressure which in turn causes your tranny to sift hard, this is extremely hard on the gears inside the tranny as well as linkages outside of the tranny. This will cycle each time that you shut off the car, other words the computer will reset its self and the problem should go away for a while until the computer picks up the problem again and increase the pressure again, eventually it will shift hard all the time, if your engine light is on your are getting to the later stages of the problem. My car is doing it about every 2 to 3 hundred miles, right now I just shut off the car and the problem goes away, the end is near... keep in mind I am not driving it hard at all, hopefully I can nurse 2 to 3 months out of it before I have to replace it. I understand that this is common on the trannies that are in this car, 4T65E, the GTP has a heavier transmission then the GT so if you could find a good used one it might be cheaper than the $2500.00 that I have been quoted, this is in Canadian currency. Good luck, hopefully this is not your problem and it is just a sensor.

alcan

This is usually the cause:

http://www.transmissionspecialty.com/parts/parts/84754-34K.htm

mrrogers

Do you have to remove the transmission to do this repair?

alcan

Nope, just have to take half the car apart to get at it:

Valve Body Replacement
Removal Procedure
Tools Required
• J 28467-A Engine Support Fixture
• J 28467-90 Engine Support Adapter
• J 36462 Engine Support Adapter Leg Set

Disconnect the battery ground (negative) cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnect/Connect Procedure in Engine Electrical.
Remove the throttle body air inlet duct. Refer to Air Cleaner Assembly Replacement in Engine Controls.
Install the J 28467-A .
Install the J 28467-90 .
Install the J 36462 .
Remove the engine mount struts. Refer to Engine Mount Strut Replacement and Engine Mount Strut Replacement in Engine Mechanical.
Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
Remove the left front wheel. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
Remove the left engine splash shield. Refer to Splash Shield Replacement - Engine Body Front End.
Remove the stabilizer shaft brackets from the lower control arms. Refer to Stabilizer Shaft Link Replacement in Front Suspension.
Remove the left tie rod end from the steering knuckle. Refer to Steering Knuckle Replacement in Front Suspension.
Remove the wheel speed sensor harness connector. Refer to Wheel Speed Sensor Replacement in ABS.
Remove the left lower ball joint from the left lower control arm. Refer to Steering Knuckle Replacement in Front Suspension.
Disconnect the left drive axle from the transaxle. Refer to Wheel Drive Shaft Replacement in Drive Axle.
Secure the drive axle to the steering knuckle/strut.

Caution: Failure to disconnect the intermediate shaft from the rack and pinion stub shaft can result in damage to the steering gear and/or damage to the intermediate shaft. This damage may cause loss of steering control which could result in personal injury.

Remove the pinch bolt at the intermediate steering shaft. Refer to Intermediate Steering Shaft Replacement in Steering Wheel and Column .
Remove the intermediate shaft from the steering gear. Refer to Intermediate Steering Shaft Replacement in Steering Wheel and Column.
Disconnect the three-way catalytic converter pipe to the right (rear) exhaust manifold. Refer to Catalytic Converter Replacement in Engine Exhaust.
Support the right side of the frame with jackstands.
Support the left side of the frame with jackstands.
Remove the transaxle mount bracket. Refer to Automatic Transmission Mount Bracket Replacement .
Remove the transaxle mount. Refer to Automatic Transmission Mount Replacement .
Remove the engine mount lower nuts. Refer to Engine Mount Replacement in Engine Mechanical.
Loosen the right side frame to body bolts. Refer to Frame Removal in Frame and Underbody.
Remove the left side frame to body bolts. Refer to Frame Removal in Frame and Underbody.
Adjust the jackstand to the lower left side of the frame.
Position the drain pan under the transaxle.
Remove the wiring harness connector.
Remove the case side cover bolts (56-58).
Remove the case side cover pan (53).
Remove the case side cover gasket (54).
Remove the oil pump. Refer to Oil Pump
Remove the valve body bolts (374-381 and 384).
Remove the valve body (300) while keeping the spacer plate (370) with the transaxle.
Remove the ball check valves (372 and 373) from the valve body.
Remove the spacer plate (370) and gasket.
Remove the ball check valves (372) from the case cover.
Inspect each check valve seat in the spacer plate (370) for excessive peening. Place a ball check valve (372) on each seat and use a flashlight in order to look for visible light between the valve and the seat.
Inspect all components removed from the transaxle. Refer to the Transmission/Transaxle/Transfer Case Unit Repair Manual.

ldono31

I just brought my 2000 Grand Prix GT to the transmission shop for the same whining noise at 3000rpm. (Mine only has 70k on it) The shop told me that that it some "teeth were sheered off the spline" and it will cost about 2300. to rebuild the tranny. I know this is not what you wanted to hear, but I recommend bring it to a repair shop ASAP before any more damage occurs. The tech said he sees this problem a lot with these types of transmissions, but not with only 70k. Good luck.

jacob98

I recently replaced my battery. After doing so, my turn signals( front and back) do not work as well as my brake lights. My back up lights function correctly and so does the third brake light in the back window. I have checked all fuses and replaced all bulbs. Still nothing. --- I was curious if anyone has a wiring diagram and possibly a list of replacement fuse sizes for other problems(missing hazard light fuse and missing ABS fuse from glove box).

bobklotz

Hello my name is Bob Klotz. I have a problem with my 99 Grand prix.
On hot days with the windows rolled up, after work I try to open the
windows and nothing happens, not a sound just the sound of me hitting the
switch. I checked fuses there good. The next
morning when things cool down
windows work fine. This happens more often to the passenger side. This only
happens when inside the car gets hot by the sun? The Pontiac dealer never
heard
of such thing. Can you help?
Thanks for your time.
Bob Klotz
bloodklotz@hotmail.com

msmith2

I bought a 2005 Grand Prix GT on January 4th. The first incident that put it in the shop was - while driving at 55mph car started pulling (ex. holding back). I could not accelerate past 55 mph - it just would not go. Also the rear passenger door had an air leak and the front passenger window went up extremely slow.
Ok - the dealer fixed the problems. Said the loss of power was due to the computer resetting itself or some BS - said there was a "loss of communication".
I said, O.k whatever and prayed this car wasn't going to turn out a problem child like my previous 2000 Grand Am. Well it gets better...
last week while driving, doing about 60mph- my car totally dies. The driver display unit went out (yet the radio stayed on - don't get that!), the gages all dropped to zero, my wheel locked up , as well as my brakes. After almost getting rear ended, I had to coast until there was a place to pull to the side of the road. I turned the car off and then restarted it - then it was fine.
I was extremely pissed! I took it to the dealer. They could not find anything - they shrugged their shoulders and called it an isolated incident. I also called GM - they didn't seem to think it was a big deal either, but I don't think they liked me mentioning that it's going to happen again one day & someone will probably hit me in the rear end & God forbid,if my daughter or I get injuried - can I sue GM???
Although the dealer acts like this is nothing because they found nothing - I still don't think this is acceptable for a brand new vehicle - or any vehicle! Has anyone ever heard of such a thing? Or does anyone have an suggestions? I would appreciate it. It's not a very good thought that my car "might" just die on me instantly while I'm on the belt way!

ocmike3

I had a similar situation on a truck several years ago. It turned out the switch was faulty. It expanded enough in the heat to break the connection with one of the wires.

wolffie110

Yes.. just happened again last weekend. Luckily my wife was with me so now I know I am not going insane... She also noticed that the onstar/compas/thermometer located on the rear view mirror reset at the same time. I mentioned to the dealer, but he looked at me like I had horns. Wonder if it has anything to do with the ONSTAR service??? Not noticed any correlation between weather and temp...

ocmike3

They used a heat gun/hair dryer to diagnose my faulty switch. The only correlation I could think of between the switch and OnStar might be a faulty/unwanted ground somewhere, causing a sudden drain in the electrical system.

neeilly

49000 on a '01 GT, I was going out to pass and dropped the hammer, the car shifted down, but the acceleration was weak and it seemed to work pretty hard. The SES light came on and the car shifted back up, the SES light went out. Road tested later and tried some hard accelerations and the same occured. Research has lead me to believe it may be the pressure control soleniod. Can anyone confirm/deny or have any other ideas as to what it could be?

mrrogers

Please see posts #119 and #120.

ianz

I also like to know the answer.
I have a 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix SE. The clock and radio frequency are on the same LCD. Everytime, when the car key is turned on positon, the clock will be on. Two days ago, the display is off but when I started the engine, it came back. However, the next day, the clock was off forever and the radio frequency was also off. Because the radio is still working I assume that there must be something wrong with the LCD. Does anyone know how to fix this? Thanks very much for your advice.

tedescm1

lemon law.................

pinky68

does anyone know what is a good wax to use. i have a 2004 pontiac gtp adn want a good shine . any recomendations

tkajohns

Just recently my GT performance has been off. It seems like when I am on the highway, and I try to pass someone, the car hesitates, the the RPMs jump to 7000, and then it hesitates again, then slowly kicks in. It only does it when I floor it, if I am driving normal, it seems to change gears no problems (auto). I took it too transmission shop and they didnt see anything, no codes or anything, and I havent had any engine lights. But he could duplicate the problem, but he didt know what it was. Any thoughts

mrrogers

You could try changing the transmission filter and fluid. I hope you are not in the situation described in posts # 119 and 120.

tkajohns

I took it to the dealer today and some good news, it turned out to be fuel filter and the catalytic converter, surprise was that they replaced the catalytic for free, something about emissions warranty. So i got lucky. Now the car drives faster than when I bought. Thanks for the help.

ocmike3

I have used a lot of waxes in the last 30+ years. Zaino is a little more work (actually not if you did it right in the first place), but the results are the best I've ever had.
http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc

chandler1

Sounds like a front wheel bearing - you'll probably have to replace the whole hub.

cjohn1

New to this forum so bear with me...

The horn on my 2004 GP GT works fine at city speeds but on the interstate the horn only works intermittently.

Anyone else have this problem or one similar?

Thanks

kk01gtp

I have changed my frnt left wheel hub 2 times in the last 2 months. I haven't hit anything or done anything drastic. My GTP is really failing me since i hit 75K. Does anyone know why this problem keeps re-occuring?
I need answers fast, cuz the car is gonna drain my wallet!

clint21

I'm very apologetic towards your scenario- sell or force a buyback would be my best advice- i had the same thing happen to me- was driving 35 mph , full steering column lock, car stalled, brakes didn't go out ( good thing- i was driving around a lake). They stated many different reasons along with isolated incident as well as many non-sense theories, puddles, bumps in road, etc. I got an attorney, worked for free (made gm pay his costs) he got me back about 9700 dollars from the 12000 i gave them- the car was 1 year old and had 25000 miles, i hope this helps- its a good feeling that your not insane, hope this helps any questions just post them on this board.
-problems on my 04 GT2 (forced buyback)
-transmission- stuck 3rd gear, power steering failure, window regulator, steering grommets & clips, three new pcms needed, two re-flashes, headlamps out, stereo out, ignition. car stalled 30 times, trans went out 3 times, car revved constantly while stopped, the car is not built very well.

tonysenese

I have replaced the hubs on my 1999 grand prix gt several times since about 75000 miles. If you did the work yourself, it is possible the hub was the problem. I have had this happen with a "new" out of the box after market (non-GM) hub assy. It also seems that as the cars gets older, all the front end suspension pieces need replacing, especially if you ever drive it very hard. I have replaced both CV axles, the lower ball joints, struts, and torsion bar bushings. I drive HDPE courses at Watkins Glen and LimeRock in the car and it kills these parts. Fortunately, you can do the work yourself with a good set of ratchets and some patience.

lbatchelar

I have a GP 2000 and the key gets stuck in the ignition. I had a new ignition replaced but still the key won't come out. I try everything from moving the steering wheel to moving the car back and forth in gear. I will then drive it around the block and the key will come out. Any comments.

kennrry

I am also having the same identical problem with a 2000 Grand Prix. Took in to Rinke Pontiac, Warren Mi over two visits they replaced the shifter assembly, ignition switch and wiring harness down the steering column for 900.00. The third time I turned off the car the key was stuck again in the ignition. I'm now trying to do some research on my own so when I take it back I'll have something else for the technician to trouble shoot. It is an intermittant problem. I'm registered here at Edmunds as Kennrry. Let's try to stay in touch until the problems are solved.

mytfast

Hi- Don't know if you're still having the intermittent starting problem but I had a similar problem on another car a number of years ago. The problem wound up being a bad battery cable which became coroded internally between the wire strands and reduced the flow of current from the battery. We took a razor cutter & made a slit length wise to expose the wiring inside & you wouldn't have belived the internal corrosion. Although pretty frustrating, it was a cheap fix.

mrrogers

My wife's 98 Regal had a similar problem. Turned out to be the switch that does not let you remove the key unless you are in park. It is located in front of your shifter. Hope this helps. Good luck!

cornellpinoy

Do you remember if it was the positive or negative cable that was corroded? Did you have any corrosion on the battery terminals at any point in time? What led to you to check the cables? Was there still enough power for the lights and horn to work with the bad cable?

I have a '94 Olds with the 3.1 that has an intermittent starting problem. I may have to check the battery cables. Thanks for the tip!

tax33

My alternator went out twice, battery changed twice. at one time on the highway occasionally, all my dash lights would go out, the rpms went really high as well, took into the dealerships no one could figure out the problem and finally someone linked it too the battery, replaced it and it was fine. Also the tensioner belt pulley is plastic, i was away from home, and the plastic piece burned right off, the belt fell of, steering became hard , engine started heating up, luckly the problem didn't cost me too much, but im just pissed at the fact why would GM have a plastic part in near the engine, I love my car, don't want problems keep coming up on me, anyone any suggestions over all with your grand prixs, is there anything i should worry about, I do take care of it, all sythetic, oil, transmission fluid. 98 grand prix gt 3.8 , with 130k km, my 94 grand am, never no engine problems, only oil and regular maintenace, and taht has 290K km, what do think

chandler1

I bought a 2001 Grand Prix GT (3800) in Guelph. Half way home the radio cut out, the power door locks began to lock and unlock repreatedly (all by themselves) and the dash lights (idiot lights) all lit up. I changed the alternator (dealer told me it was overcharging) and there were no other fault codes in history.
I've had the car 3 months now and I'll go for 2 or 3 days with no problem then all of a sudden, the whole cycle begins again - radio out - locks locking and unlocking - dash idiot lights coming on. A new wrinkle just appeared the other day - the engine starts to cut out - no power. Dealer says he can't do anything unless the car acts up while in the garage. Any ideas gang?

pyro007

I am having the same problem in my 04 grand prix, the first time it happened while pulling into a parking lot, the car just started stalling and the dic thing said charging system failure, the car died, I turned it back on and it was fine, the dealer wasn't sure what it was, but replaced the alternator, after that the car started stalling whenver forg lamps, rear defroster and the fan were on, dealer kept it for two days, replaced the pcm. That problem got fixed, but now just yesterday after pulling out of my driveway and starting to drive, the car cut out, and i almost flew out of the windshield due to it stalling, taking it in on wednesday, hope they take care of it!!

theupsetter

I bought this car used in 2003. ONE month later I had to have the transmission replaced. I'm so glad I bought an extended warranty. I had the serpentine belt replaced yesterday because it was cracked. I thought this may have been the cause of the noise, because it would make it even when I turned the wheel. As soon as I made a left turn this morning, it started right up. It's a constant whining sound. I really like the car, but this is getting old. Anyone know what this is about? I'd like to have an idea of what it might be before I take it to a dealer. :mad:

ktell

I am shocked that there are not more replies to this message! This is not just a Pontiac problem but a GM problem with their 3800 engines. It is a problem with the upper intake plenum gasket that GM refuses to recall. The low coolant light came on and took it in to our GM dealer because it needed an oil change anyway. $669 later, I got my car back. Luckily I didn't hurt the engine but it did ruin the water pump. I asked the service manager why this plenum part is not a recall and he said that it was GM's call to make and that it probably hasn't been recalled because it isn't a safety issue. Not to mention that GM dealers are making millions on repairs because of this faulty part. My Lumina only has 72K on it. I recently purchased a 97 Grand Prix with 70K and a 3800. I asked the dealer if this engine was going to do the same thing and his answer was, "most likely!"
BUYER BEWARE OF THE 3800 SERIES II ENGINES! I have coworkers who have had the same problem with their engines! One of them was much worse than mine because their engine froze. The other tried to restart their engine and cracked the starter. This is not a Pontiac or Lumina problem - but a GM design problem with the upper intake plenum gasket. GM refuses to do anything about it. Naturally, when I bought my 99 Lumina I also bought the extended warranty - but it ran out 3 months prior to this failure.

mphxaz

Hi ktell

On the 2001 Pontiac GP with the 3800 II engine there was a recall (Campaign # 03034) which corrected a potential for coolant leak at upper intake throttle body gasket. My dealer replaced throttle body fasteners as described in campaign 03034.

I had this recall service done in August of 2003. I'm not sure how many other GM vehicles were mentioned in the recall. This recall sounds like it might address the problem you have mentioned. You might want to check into it.

By the way, I love my '01 GP GT. It's been great so far.

pyro007

I feel you. I'm going through the same BS with my 04 Grand Prix. It all started last year in the winter. I was driving to the bank and after pulling into the parking lot, the car started stalling, the light dimming, the engine revving and the chime came on sawyin charging system failure. THe funny thing is two seconds later it kicked backup like nothing happened. So i took it to the dealer, they kept it for 2 days, and after not being able to find anything replaced the alternator. Soon thereafter the car would start stalling and saying charging system failure after i would turn on the fog lamps, rear defroster and the fan, so i took it in again, they kept it for another two days, replaced the pcm this time, i thought it was goind to be all good.
It wasn't, last week i pulled out of my driverway, shifted into drive, pressed the accelerator and started driving. THe car didn't even go a yard, it just cut out, the chime and the message came on again and i almost flew out of the windshield cause it pushed me forward so sudden. Half a second later, the car kicked back up and everything was back to normal.
I'm taking it in tomorrow again, hope they fix it finally. :lemon:

houseslsmn

I recently bought an 01 GT with 101k miles from a family member. The car has been well maintained. I drove it home and parked it in my driveway. Last week after sitting for a couple weeks I tried to start it and it fired right up, idled for about 5 seconds and died. This repeated about 20 times. I left it alone and tried again the next day. It started and ran fine. Now it does it intermittently. Anybody have anything like this before?

storm3

I had a similar problem with my 99 GTP. It was a large inline resistor for the fuel pump that had burnt up. On mine it was located under the front right fender. There is a GM bulletin out about this that says to relocate the resistor to the firewall. If that looks ok, you may also want to check your Mass Air Flow Sensor.

stinkweed2522

Just wanted to jump into this mix and let you all know that I'm having the same problem as well on my 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix SE. My Key gets stuck in the ignition and I have to really wiggle it back and forth (like to turn the car on and off) and it usually finally comes out. I would rather hear what fixes the problem for sure then to spend the kind of money you did for no results. That is too bad you had to drop the 900.00. Thanks Kennrry! I will post if I find out anything. I have some other postings in other forums as well.

jenkay

I havew a 2001 Grand Prix, I thought it might be a transmission issue, I just took it today and the computer is saying that I need a software update. I have an appt tomorrow to see if this fixes the hard shifting. I will let you know if it fixes the issue.

ronbo

I have a 98 Buick Regal and the key is stuck in it RIGHT NOW!!! Sometimes it comes out, and sometimes it doesnt'. Can you tell me what you had to do to the switch (and where it is?) to get the key out? Thanks so much...

mrrogers

On my wife's 98 Regal, the dealer replaced the switch that is located in front of the floor shifter. Evidently the switch confirms that the car is in park so the key can be removed. It is a fairly involved job as the console has to be removed to get to the switch.