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Pontiac Grand Prix: Problems & Solutions
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http://www.ackits.com/forum/index.cfm
Info - Automatic Transmission Shift, Engine Driveability Concerns or Service Engine Soon (SES) Light On as a Result of the Installation of an Aftermarket Reusable, Excessively Oiled Air Filter #04-07-30-013 - (Mar 5, 2004)
2004 and Prior Cars and Light Duty Trucks
2003-2004 HUMMER H2
First, Inspect the vehicle for a reusable aftermarket excessively oiled air filter. DO NOT repair under warranty if concerns result from the use of a reusable aftermarket oiled air filter.
The installation of an aftermarket reusable, oiled air filter may result in:
Service Engine Soon (SES) Light On
Transmission shift concerns, slipping and damaged clutch(es) or band(s)
Engine driveability concerns, poor acceleration from a stop, limited engine RPM range
The oil that is used on these air filter elements may be transferred onto the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor causing contamination of the sensor. As a result, the Grams per Second (GPS) signal from the MAF may be low and any or all of the concerns listed above may occur.
When servicing a vehicle with any of these concerns, be sure to check for the presence of an aftermarket reusable, excessively oiled air filter. The MAF, GPS reading should be compared to a like vehicle with a OEM air box and filter under the same driving conditions to verify the concern.
Transmission or engine driveability concerns that are the result of the installation of an aftermarket reusable, excessively oiled air filter are not considered to be warrantable repair items.
Other than that, the caliper on that rotor is defective.
Thanks for the response about the brake issues!
http://www.lemonaidcars.com/up_june_december2002.htm
My wife and I own Gran Sports. Her '00 seems much faster off-the-line than my '98. Her's has 35,000 miles and mine has 53,000. The throttle response at idle also appears to be much better with her's than mine. Both cars have never had a tune-up. I wonder if worn spark plugs or a clogged PCV could cause this problem? Both cars have been using Shell's V-Power gas, so I think I can rule out dirty fuel injectors. I recently had my tranny overhauled, but even that didn't seem to help. Both cars are getting maximum S/C boosts of 6-7 PSI. I was thinking of taking it to our Buick dealer for a complete engine diagnosis. I'd appreciate any suggestions. Thanks.
The rubber piece below the bumper where the two black grills are has a tear in it.
I assume the upper and lower piece come as one assembly. What I need to know is how to remove this front assembly and how to put on the new one. It would be helpful to have some pictures to refer to. I think I can do the job just knowing the process to removing this front assembly. Thanks for your help
A/C wiring harness at 45K - $450 to fix
Radaitor leak at 50K $100 to fix
a/c compressor at 60K $1000 to fix
passenger power window broken 3 times - once under warranty $400 to fix each time
a/c thermostate conrol $150 to fix
Tie rods need to be replaced at 63K - dealer refused to relace - $250 to fix
I am glad my next car will be a honda
Thanks
Of course, it's always a good idea to check and see if your heat gauge is actually accurate.
My daughter has a 94 Grand Prix GT 3.1 with 84,000 miles on it. Mechanically it runs great. The problem is getting it started. When turning the ignition key most of the time it starts right up, but sometimes you get nothing, no clicking, nothing. If you keep trying to start it, it will eventually start. Sometimes 2,3 or 5 attempts to get it to start. The battery is good, the terminals have been cleaned. This problem was originally noticeable about 2 years ago, I replaced the starter and cleaned the ground connection.
The same problem occurred, I then put the original starter back. The problem is getting more frequent now and I would like to get it repaired. Any suggestions would be greatly appricated. Thank you.
BTW-the sound goes away when i take curves to the left.
When accelerating b/t 2500 - 3000 rpm
I hear a ticking / rattling noise coming from the engine. It is most prominent after cold starts, but sometimes lasts for over an hour.
Of course when I brought to the dealer, it made the sound the whole way there but failed to make it with the tech in the car.
Any ideas what this could be?
Also, what is a PCV valve's function, is it important to replace, and when should it be done?
My 94 Grand Prix with 3.1 L V6 may have been demonstrating this "piston slap" noise problem since new. It has always had valve noise when cold, and the past 4 years started burning more oil. Of course this is a 11 year old car with 111k miles now so I really don't expect much other than to try and find a reasonable way to salvage it for my son that wants it for his last year of high school and driving to college. A couple mechanics say just drive it running rough as it is until it conks out (especially rough in the winter, takes a long time to warm up and even semismooth out) - they figure it needs either a valve job, at least valve guides or maybe rings. Not worth a fix in the $1000 range for a car not worth $2000. But hard to find another car I'd trust in that price range, I have even considered dropping in a newer 3.1L from the junk yard as the basic car is in pretty good shape (but who knows what shape that's in?).
Your lemonaid link gives me a server error. Is there any other way or easier way to fix this problem?
I've posted before (#76), but didn't get any help. Same car, an updated question.
I think I have eliminated just about everything, except the ignition switch. I even tried a new key with the same resistance as the original one.
Someone once told me, you can eliminate the resistor on the ignition key if you measure the resistance in ohms across the key (1.13k in this case), get an inline resistor, cut a wire from the ignition switch and install the resistor.
If anyone knows of this method, could you please post. Also, if this is the case, would I have to remove the resistor on the key itself.
Thank you for your time. Mike.
I'm thinking it might be something with the struts, but I'm not sure. When I go over a bump, it kind of groans like somethings rocking back and forth...and then eventually settles after about 2 or 3 groans...depending on the size of the bump.
Any ideas? Is that a strut problem?
Thanks.
Going on 78000km - only problem so far lost first and second speed on blower switch - replaced under warranty. Best car I have ever owned - 3.8 SC engine great on gas - average 29/31 on highway and I have a very heavy foot.
This will answer your question. Ignore the part of the diagram that shows a remote start. No, you don't have to remove the chip from the key. The colors on my Olds were orange and black. Best thing to do is put your key in the ignition and when you dig and find the two very thin wires coming down the steering column, put a meter across them ( you may have to snip one ) to double check that you are measuring the right resistance.
http://www.directechs.com/techtips/pdfs/resources/security/direct- ed_techtips/1049.pdf
This is most likely due to cold and possibly ice/salt in the strut bearings at the top of the strut tower. It is expensive to fix.
If it's the bearing plate, although annoying, it's not dangerous. Question: After you turn, if you let go of your steering wheel, does your steering re-center more or less on its own? If so, the plates aren't too bad yet.
If you feel like your car is bouncing, it's time for new struts. If you aren't having steering issues and the noise doesn't bug you, just replace the struts. If you plan on keeping the car a long time (a few more years) and want it back to normal, do the bearings too.
Brian
I'm not a radio expert but if the radio/cd player work in general, and its only the display that is out, i would think the display has bit the dust. There are a few radio-repair places on the internet, that would probably cost as much as going to your local Best Buy type place and dropping in a new stereo (no i'm not recommending Best Buy). But if you want the stock look, I would Google for gm delco stereo repair or something like that.
Brian
stopping for traffic lights and sometimes while driving 50mph. Starts right up and may stall unpedictably more during stopping. Sometimes problem goes away for 1 hour or so. Dash engine service light only comes on rarely and for only 10 minutes to 1/2 hour and turns off. Right now still have this
stall problem and no service lights are on. What is
wrong anyone have an idea?
Thank You
The vacuum hose for either the boost control solenoid or MAP sensor, probably MAP sensor. Will cause driveability problems as you describe. Fix it. Quick tip, ALWAYS correct any known problems before further diagnosis.