I put a 383-stroker Chevy in a '76 Luv with a TCI Streetfighter Turbo 400 and a custom Ford 9" rear - we fabricated subframe connectors because we knew she'd be dancing otherwise.
I think what they wanted to know in this topic was a reliable source for replacement engines....a good rebuilder.
I always get the willies when someone asks me that, as I have no idea how to judge the standards they use to rebuild engines. If it were my factory, my rebuilt engines wouldn't be very cheap.
have a pretty good reputation with no failures that I know of, in normal use. I know a racing buddy who blew up a Ford 5.0, but that's different - but still covered by their warranty.
GM Goodwrench works well and I've supervised installation of hundreds, with special experience in big blocks going into motorhomes.
I would stay FAR away from the remans at Pep Boys and Autozone, because just like the garbage tools they sell, the engines are made by the lowest bidder.
I agree with Mr Shiftright. Pretty scary when you can get a reman for $799. You have to wonder just how few new parts they actually used in that engine.
I can tell you that with a good machine shop, press, boring equipment and valve bench, I have rarely had less than 20 hours into a rebuild. Figure that at minimum $50/hour, that is a grand just in labor. Add quality parts to that figure and the figure jumps to around $1700 easy. Add any special stuff and that number starts to multiply real fast. But then again, the "special stuff" voids the warranty and I add overheat indicators to the block.
fleet, It was a Twist with a Tuck & Roll. You see, the problem is, when the frame twists, if it twists too far, something breaks. When that happens, it wants to completely twist all the way over. Then comes the roll part. Over and over and over. Ouch! Looked way cool though. LOL!
I've cussed and wrenched many long hours over several decades, but never have I wedged a big engine into a spot it didn't belong. I've just been content to "get by" fixing whatever and improving it beyond the manufacturer's "failure." >:o]
Comments
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Unfortunately, the frame didn't fair to well off the line.
Chubby was famous for "The Twist."
First time he got on it he broke the windshield!
Seems the whold car twisted!
I put a 383-stroker Chevy in a '76 Luv with a TCI Streetfighter Turbo 400 and a custom Ford 9" rear - we fabricated subframe connectors because we knew she'd be dancing otherwise.
Insane, wicked fast.
I always get the willies when someone asks me that, as I have no idea how to judge the standards they use to rebuild engines. If it were my factory, my rebuilt engines wouldn't be very cheap.
GM Goodwrench works well and I've supervised installation of hundreds, with special experience in big blocks going into motorhomes.
I would stay FAR away from the remans at Pep Boys and Autozone, because just like the garbage tools they sell, the engines are made by the lowest bidder.
Pretty scary when you can get a reman for $799.
You have to wonder just how few new parts they actually used in that engine.
I can tell you that with a good machine shop, press, boring equipment and valve bench, I have rarely had less than 20 hours into a rebuild.
Figure that at minimum $50/hour, that is a grand just in labor. Add quality parts to that figure and the figure jumps to around $1700 easy.
Add any special stuff and that number starts to multiply real fast. But then again, the "special stuff" voids the warranty and I add overheat indicators to the block.
fleet,
It was a Twist with a Tuck & Roll. You see, the problem is, when the frame twists, if it twists too far, something breaks. When that happens, it wants to completely twist all the way over. Then comes the roll part. Over and over and over. Ouch! Looked way cool though. LOL!
>:o]