Are you an EV owner who has received a shockingly high quote for repairs? A reporter would like to speak with you; please reach out to [email protected] by Friday, May 26 for more details.

Leaking ford 351 oil pan????

peatmoss1peatmoss1 Member Posts: 6
edited March 2014 in Ford
Greetings gearheads,

I have a 1995 F250 4X4 with the 351 V-8. The oil pan leaks and has a patch welded on it. The last attempt was to put some J-B-WELD on it and it still seeps oil. Question is, how hard is it to put a new pan on and what's involved?? Also a good source to buy the new pan.
Thanx in advace for any replies!!


  • vidtechvidtech Member Posts: 212
    oil pans are a pain to change.usually,the engine needs to be raised and sometimes steering linkage needs to be separated just to have the room to remove the old and install the new.i would still use the ford dealer for the part.if you can find an aftermarket they are usually thinner than the original.if you go aftermarket,check jc whitney.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    To remove:
    1. Drain the cooling system.
    2. Remove the bolts attaching the fan shroud to the radiator and position the shroud over the fan.
    3. Remove the upper intake manifold and throttle body.
    4. Remove the nuts and lockwashers attaching the engine support insulators to the chassis bracket.
    5. If equipped with an automatic transmission, disconnect the oil cooler line at the left side of the radiator.
    6. Remove the exhaust system.
    7. Raise the engine and place wood blocks under the engine supports.
    8. Drain the crankcase.
    9. Support the transmission with a floor jack and remove the transmission crossmember.
    10. Remove the oil pan attaching bolts and lower the oil pan onto the crossmember.
    11. Remove the two bolts attaching the oil pump pickup tube to the oil pump.
    12. Remove the nut attaching the oil pump pickup tube to the No. 3 main bearing cap stud.
    13. Lower the pickup tube and screen into the oil pan.
    14. Remove the oil pan from the vehicle.

    To install:
    1. Clean the oil pan, inlet tube and gasket surfaces.
    2. Inspect the gasket sealing surface for damages and distortion due to overtightening of the bolts. Repair and straighten as required.
    3. Position a new oil pan gasket and seal to the cylinder block.
    4. Position the oil pick-up tube and screen to the oil pump and install the lower attaching bolt and gasket loosely.
    5. Install nut attaching to number 3 main bearing cap stud.
    6. Place the oil pan on the crossmember.
    7. Install the upper pick-up tube bolt. Tighten the pick-up tube bolts.
    8. Position the oil pan to the cylinder block and install the attaching bolts. Tighten to 10-12 ft. lbs. (13-16 Nm).
    9. Install the transmission crossmember.
    10. Raise the engine and remove the blocks under the engine supports. Bolt the engine to the supports.
    11. Install the exhaust system.
    12. If equipped with an automatic transmission, connect the oil cooler line at the left side of the radiator.
    13. Install the nuts and lockwashers attaching the engine support insulators to the chassis bracket.
    14. Install the upper intake manifold and throttle body.
    15. Install the fan shroud.
    16. Fill the crankcase.
    17. Fill and bleed the cooling system.

    Aren't you sorry you asked now? LOL
  • dana23dana23 Member Posts: 1
    First of all is the oil pan punctured or crushed
    where it leaks? If its crushed replace it with a new pan from the dealer there not that expensive in comparison to a motor. If its a puncture, drain it and try braising it with some braising rods.To pull the pan you have to remove fan,motor
    mounts, starter,and probably a few other things
    that you will find along the way.
    And while your there put a new oil pump in it.By
    the way that engine is going to have to be jacked up very high.Pay to have it done
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Are you serious??

    sounds like an eight hour job!
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Pretty close call, Mitchell time is 6.5 hours. That's assuming everything goes like clockwork and every fastener comes out without breaking, seizing or otherwise screwing up your day.
  • peatmoss1peatmoss1 Member Posts: 6
    I had no idea it was a 6.5 to 8 hour job to change the pan!!! Maybe I'll try to find someone to braze it, if that doesn't work I'll farm it out to someone with more than the limited backyard mechanic skills that I have. I assume it had rust pinholes and someone did a terrible weld job on it. THANX
  • vidtechvidtech Member Posts: 212
    as a preventative measure,when i see rust blistering on the pan i smear a little grease on it.the silicone sealant used as a gasket does a terrific job but oil pans seem to rust out as a result.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    All flames have been deleted as well as responses to those flames. Notices going out later.

    thank you, enjoy the discussion.

    Shifty the Host
This discussion has been closed.