Dodge Dart/Plymouth Valiant

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Comments

  • argentargent Member Posts: 176
    Both AMC and Chrysler offered the aluminum-block sixes as options out of caution. They wanted to put the aluminum engines out before the public, but they didn't want to take the plunge by making them standard and potentially tarnishing the reputation of their whole car line if the engines didn't work out. By comparison, Chevrolet did exactly the opposite when they introduced the aluminum-block/iron-head Vega engine. It turned out to have the same problems that torpedoed the Rambler and Mopar engines, but because it was initially the only engine, it put the Vega in a bad light. By the time Chevy offered the "Iron Duke" four to try to assuage the concerns, the damage had been done.

    The Buick 215 V-8 is still exceptionally light for its displacement -- about 320 pounds, which is still impressive today (by comparison, that's about the same as a modern Audi 3.0L V-6). The all-iron V-6 (which started off as 198 cid) was a bit more than 100 lbs. heavier, which still wasn't outrageous compared to the straight-sixes of the time, though. The iron-block 300 V-8 in '64 (which still used the aluminum heads) was about 460 lbs., the all-iron version from '65 on something like a hundred pounds more than that. But again, that was still in the same ballpark as the Chevy small block or the Mopar 318/340. The iron Buick engines weren't the lightest around, but they weren't unusually heavy for the time, either. The later Pontiac 301 was much lighter, but the machining for thinwall castings had improved greatly in the intervening decade, and the 301 just wasn't as beefy. Engineers in the early-mid sixties were generally more conservative about how thin they wanted to cast iron blocks, fearing durability problems.
  • argentargent Member Posts: 176
    I looked it up, and the AMC aluminum-block six was offered from 1961 to 1964. It was 196 cid, with iron heads. It was optional on '61-'63 Rambler Classic Deluxe and Super (550/660), and standard on the '62-'63 Classic 400 (770), although you could substitute the iron-block six for no cost. It was an across-the-board Classic option in '64, and was dropped after that.

    The Mopar slant six offered the aluminum block only in 225-inch form (there were apparently engineering prototypes of aluminum 170s, but none were sold) as an option on Valiants and Lancers from 1961-1963. It was dropped early in the '63 model year.
  • grbeckgrbeck Member Posts: 2,358
    I always wondered why a tiny outfit like AMC would invest precious development dollars in an aluminum-block version of its six while offering its ancient flathead six until the mid-1960s! AMC would have been better off making one version of a more modern overhead-valve six standard across the board.
  • rbentonrbenton Member Posts: 30
    AMC was rather healthy in 1961, it beat Plymouth in sales that year. So AMC was into expansion that point. The engine was an aluminum version of the old Nash 6, not a version of the Typoon 6 introduced in 1964 (199, 232, 258 et al family. )Today it lives on as the 4.0 L six in Grand Cherokee's.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Americans were considerably behind the Europeans in alloy engine development, and their effort were usually disastrous. Even the Italians were building very reliable alloy engines in the 50s and 60s.
    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    This just in.................

    Some Darts Coming Up In Value!

    The January 2003 issue of Sports Car Market has an interesting article on collectible Dodge Darts, 1968-69 V8s.

    For #2 cars (very very nice, local show quality), projected prices are:

    340 Dart GT $15K-20K
    383 18K-23K
    440 25K-35K
    Hemi $50K-75K

    The Hemis were built by Hurst-Campbell and they only made 80 of them

    Sports Car Market says the 6 cylinder cars have no collector potential as they are very common and base level automobiles, and that the Scat Pack Darts will not have the following and desireability of the Chevys and Mopars of the era, due to their "humble origins". I think that means that a Charger started life as a more upscale and well-equipped car.

    Still, it goes to show that even the most pedestrian car in an automaker's lineup, if equipped with the right motor and cosmetics, can find new life as a collectible.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Shifty....scrolling back....yep, you said it...

    " Italians were building very reliable alloy engines in the 50's and 60's"

    My memory must have suddenly failed me! :)
  • argentargent Member Posts: 176
    Well...I think it might be fairer to say that the Italian engines of that time weren't unreliable BECAUSE they were alloy. When I see people talking about typical trouble spots of Alfa engines and such, the specific aluminum-related problems that the American engines experienced (bad head gaskets, electrolysis, contamination of heater cores and radiators) don't seem to be high on the list.

    The interesting thing to me about both the Mopar aluminum Slant Six and the Rambler six was not that they were playing with aluminum, but that they applied it to their six-cylinder engines, rather than their V-8s. Both Chrysler and AMC must really have thought that the trend towards compacts and economy cars was going to continue, because up till that point six-cylinder engines were nowhere. Every American automaker had seen the perils of not offering a V-8, and the damage it had done to makes like Kaiser, Hudson, and even Packard (which got one, but way too late). A lot of the mid-range brands (Olds, Buick, Mercury) didn't even offer a six in the late 50s or early 60s.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 26,088
    ...that they really did think the trends towards economy cars and smaller styles would continue. In 1960, the Dodge Coronet was replaced by the Dart, on the 118" Plymouth wheelbase instead of the "traditional" 122" Dodge wb. By 1961, the high-volume Chryslers were on the 122" wb, instead of their regular 126", and in '63, all the Chrysler-badged cars were on that wheelbase.

    Then, look what they did to the full-sized Dodge and Plymouth for '62. Almost accidentally, they "invented" the intermediate! I heard that the '62 DeSoto was also supposed to be downsized. I saw some pics of it online somewhere, and it was actually quite attractive, compared to the '62 Dodge (which I find ugly in a cool sort of way) or Plymouth (which is just flat-out ugly!)
  • grbeckgrbeck Member Posts: 2,358
    Andre: My opinion of the 1962 Plymouth versus the 1962 Dodge is the exact opposite of yours! After seeing photos of the original, full-size prototypes in Collectible Automobile, I'd say the 1962 Plymouth, as originally planned, was unique, but not ugly. The Dodge, on the other hand, was still pretty bad.

    The Plymouth and Dodge used styling themes from the 1960-62 Valiants and Lancers, which were some of the most, um, unusual cars ever put into production (from a styling standpoint) by an American manufacturer. They aren't boring and homely (most Ramblers) or gaudy and tortured (most 1958-59 full-size domestic cars). The long hood/short deck proportions, fender blades, bold grille, "shoulderless" body sides and six-window greenhouse on such a small car make for a very interesting design. Not necessarily beautiful, but interesting.
  • wq59bwq59b Member Posts: 61
    Old friend of mine in CA is restoring his dream car: a '60s Ferrari V-12. He had to design & construct his own elaborate jig that slowly applied increasing pressure to break the heads free from the block, the electrolysis was so bad. Every day he'd go out to the garage and tighten his series of bolts to steadily increase the pressure.

    He ALSO found he had to build a 'double' engine stand to support the bare V-12 block on BOTH ends, otherwise it would WARP if only supported on one end! Nice, eh?

    There's a lot of mystique surrounding Ferrari's... and likewise a lot of myth. Quality engineering of their '50s & 60s street cars is apparently one of those myths.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    No myth---these engines are race-track proven. All alloy engines need great care when being worked on, even 2003 cars. Even iron blocks need care. You let a crank or cam from a slant six drop off a bench and it'll break right in half sometimes.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Growing up in So. Calif, nobody ever used anything but water in their radiators. Maybe we would add a can of anti-rust but that was it.

    When my parents bought their '62 Buick Special with the aluminum engine, they were given strict attention that coolant had to be used!

    Otherwise, the aluminum would flake off and plug the radiator. Now, we never had a problem but others (who used wate) did, and the engines got a bad reputation they really didn't deserve.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    It's not a good idea to put anything delicate in the hands of the American public.
  • andys120andys120 Member Posts: 23,675
    I remember being at Sebring in '67 and talking to a guy from Fla who had an English Ford Anglia. He told me he had never put antifreeze in his cars. I guess it was common outside the snow belt.

    Of course, even though I was from NY I had never put A/F in my car either (VW Beetle-lol).

    2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93

  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 26,088
    ...I let my Dart go for a few months without antifreeze, and just ran straight water. The seam in the top of the radiator where the top of the tank goes on had burst, and I didn't have the time nor the money to get it fixed. So I just ran it with water for awhile, and constantly checked the level. Once it started getting cooler though, around October, I finally decided to get it fixed.

    That damn seam burst 4 times within 2 years, but the last time was almost 8 years ago, so I guess it's going to hold this time!
  • argentargent Member Posts: 176
    There's apparently a specific reason for the downsized '62 Mopars. Short-lived Chrysler president Bill Newberg heard that Chevrolet was bringing out a radically smaller car, so he stomped into Chrysler styling and ordered them to scrap everything they were doing and design smaller cars for the '62 model year. They had to do this on a rush, so they ended up basing it on some of Virgil Exner's wonkier "S-body" designs (among other things, I think part of the aesthetic problem with those cars is that the Valiant/Lancer styling didn't play well on the larger bodies).

    As it turned out, of course, Newberg was ALMOST right. Chevrolet did introduce two smaller models, but they weren't the full-sized line -- they were the '62 Chevy II and '64 Chevelle/Malibu. Both the intermediate Ford Fairlane and the Chevelle/Malibu line did well, so if Chrysler had introduced smaller cars IN ADDITION TO, rather than instead of, its big-car line, they probably would've been all right. But as it was it became one of Chrysler's biggest blunders ever, and one of the things that got Newberg the sack.
  • argentargent Member Posts: 176
    FWIW, I was wrong about the weight of the all-iron Buick V-8 (the 300-cid derivative of the aluminum 215). It was quoted at 467 pounds, up from 318 pounds for the aluminum engine. The weight I've seen for the original 198/225 V-6 (which was always all-iron) was 414 lbs. (the 70s/80s revival may have been a bit heavier with beefier components, putting it in the 450-pound range). Both were still quite light for all-iron V-8s, especially for that period -- compare that to about 470 pounds for a Ford 260 and about 535 pounds for a Chevy 283. Note that the 198/225 V-6 comes out poorly from sharing its architecture with the V-8; the "economy" of that engine was purely in its manufacturing costs, not pounds-per-horsepower! The same was true of the Pontiac slant-four made from half of the 326 V-8; it was only about 40 pounds lighter than the 326, which was far from the lightest of the smaller-displacement GM engines.

    By comparison I think the Mopar 225 Slant Six weighed about 475 pounds in cast iron.

    (I'd mistakenly assumed the all-iron Olds 330 and all-iron Buick were similar, but they're not -- the Olds was 567 pounds, fully 100 pounds more than the Buick.)
  • grbeckgrbeck Member Posts: 2,358
    Newberg was fired because of corruption involving Chrysler's suppliers. Apparently he and other executives either had an interest in or were receiving kickbacks from outside suppliers.

    It was quite a scandal at the time. But he was gone before the 1962 Dodges and Plymouths bombed in the market. He wasn't there to take the fall for his decision.
  • wq59bwq59b Member Posts: 61
    Car Life in their feature story on the '62 225 V-6 stated it weighs 370 withOUT flywheel. This is only 46 lbs more than the aluminum 215 V8 (also without flywheel). Since the 215 was called a "monumental step forward" in developing 155 to 185 HP on 324 lbs, the V-6 is not bad at all from being derived from it, IMO, tho of course it does not match it being cast in iron.

    According to my info, Pontiac's 195 "Indy 4" weighs 479 lbs without flywheel while the 389 weighs 675 lbs as a 4bbl. I cannot see how it would be possible to eliminate one bank of 4 cylinders from a V-8 and ONLY lose "40 lbs"!!

    The 195 (1961) was based on the 389: it shared the same bore... not to mention the 326 didn't appear until 1963.

    Finally- the reason the Pontiac 'smaller-displacement' 326 is heavier is mostly because it it NOT a small-block; it shares the same block as the 350, 389, 400, 421, 428 & 455: just the bore & crank journal sizes change.
  • ndancendance Member Posts: 323
    but I seem to think that steel is actually lighter than aluminum when viewed in a strength vs. poundage manner. I imagine it's just difficult (or expensive) to build thin walled shapes for things like heads...perhaps there is also a heat dissipation problem. Dunno...I just have in my noggin that there is nothing particularly superior about aluminum in terms of trickness.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 26,088
    ...that for sheetmetal applications, aluminum weighed half as much as steel, but you needed it twice as thick if you wanted it the same strength. So basically it was a draw, although you could get away with it in areas that were non-structural and didn't need to support a lot of weight.

    I dunno how they get away with it in engines though. The Vega's 4-cyl had iron cylinder liners, and I think my Intrepid's 2.7 does, too. Nowadays they also have the technology to make aluminum alloys that are much stronger while still being light-weight, but I don't know how they did it back in the old days.

    One of the guys in one of my Mopar clubs put an aluminum slant six in his Canadian Valiant. He rebuilt it himself and from what I heard it leaked like a Vega!
  • jrosasmcjrosasmc Member Posts: 1,711
    If a Chevy 283 V-8 weighs 535 lbs., then how much does a 350 or 396 weigh?
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 26,088
    ...I found this link on the web awhile back that lists weights of various engines:

    ftp://rohan.sdsu.edu/pub/mml/archive/Engine/engine-weight-fyi.txt

    It lists the Chevy smallblock (305, 350, etc) at 575 lb. It doesn't list a 396, but the 454 is listed 675 lb.

    In comparison, the Mopar smallblock (273, 318, 340) is only 525 lb, although for some reason the 360 is 550. The big block 361/383/400 are listed at 620 lb, and the 413/426Wedge/440 are listed at 670.
  • argentargent Member Posts: 176
    One thing that's confusing about these numbers is that some are with accessories, some without, and some are dry weights. The dry weight of the Chevy 265/283, with accessories but no flywheel, was 530-535 pounds. The 327/350 was a bit heavier -- it had a somewhat beefier block casting to take the larger bore (I read that Chevrolet recommended against trying to bore out a 265/283 block to 327/350 size). Because the Chevy small block was offered in so many variations (different manifolds, etc.) I suspect that makes a precise weight for any given engine more difficult to pin down short of putting one on a scale. The 396 weighed 685-690 pounds dry, and the 427/454s would be very similar (in iron, that is; the aluminum ZL-1 was at least 100 pounds lighter).

    I know the Pontiac 326 was not a small block, which is why I said "small displacement" rather than "smallblock." It was an underbored 389 with lighter pistons and crank, so it was only a little bit lighter than the 389. In terms of pounds per cubic inch, that put it at a disadvantage compared to the Chevy or Buick engines of similar displacement. I guess since the 195 did come before the 326, it would be more correct to say it was based on the 389, but they're all very closely related. ROAD AND TRACK in '61 quoted the weight of the 195 at 557 pounds with all accessories; I've seen another figure of about 20 pounds less than that, which may have been without accessories. My understanding was that even though the slant-four had four fewer cylinders than the 389, because it shared the entire crankcase and crankshaft, it ended up being a LOT heavier than if it'd been a clean-sheet engine.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 26,088
    ...even have a big block? Just about every Pontiac engine I've seen, from the 326 on up to the 350, 389, 400, 428, and 455, all look the same to me. Even the 301 looks the same size. For lack of a better word, I always just called the Pontiac engines a "medium" block!
  • argentargent Member Posts: 176
    It'd be fairer to say "when did they first have a small block," because as we were saying, the Pontiac V-8 was substantially the same from its introduction through the 455. It started at 287, got bored out to 317 in '56, to 347 in '57, to 370 in '58. In '59 they stroked it to 389. The 421 was a bored and stroked 389, the 326 an underbored version. They were bored a bit more to 350, 400, and 428 for '67, and finally the 428 was stretched to 455 in the early 70s, which was about the limit of its capacity. So most V-8 Pontiacs through the 70s used variations of the same basic, relatively large, engine.

    The 301 was genuinely a smallblock, substantially lighter and considerably less beefy.
  • wq59bwq59b Member Posts: 61
    Pontiac's 301 was indeed a different (and unloved) block, but externally it was still within an inch on overall dimensions- making it also NOT a small-block. Yes it was notably lighter, but 2 markedly different external block sizes from one manufacturer are what determines if there's a 'small-' & 'big-block'- not weight.

    Actually, Pontiac's V-8s were within an inch dimensionally from Chevy's big blocks, so while I've heard "medium block" with regards to Pontiac V-8s before, technically they are more so big blocks (tho again: the terms are comparative).

    As far as lbs/CI of an engine... if you go too far you get a weaker block in the name of 'boasting rights' that won't withstand power upgrades as well as a heavier block. I'd much rather have a heavier block and not worry about upgrades.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 26,088
    ...what is a big block and what isn't, anyway? I always thought it was just marketing...if a car line offers two different block sizes, then there you go. One rule of thumb I've heard was that if the bore was 4 inches or larger, then it was a big block. Well, that would technically make the Chevy 302, Ford 302, Pontiac 301, Mopar 360, Olds 350, and probably many others "big blocks".

    The main thing I noticed about the Pontiac 301 was that it looks like it has that same l-o-n-g upper radiator hose that my Catalina's 400 has. I always thought it was just the same basic block, but hollowed out and weakened to within an inch of its life in the interests of light weight and fuel economy.

    As for "medium blocks", if there is such a thing, I've heard the DeSoto Hemi referred to as such, probably because the Dodge would be the "small" Hemi and the Chrysler would be the "big" Hemi.

    And then how would you compare the old 318 poly "wide block"? It's called a smallblock, but that sucker just looks huge, especially compared to the later 318's and such. At a quick glance, it looks as big as the Mopar big blocks to me, with the exception of the jagged-shaped valve covers and distributor in the back. Maybe most of that thing's bulk is in the heads?
  • wq59bwq59b Member Posts: 61
    The big block/small block terms -- as I have come to learn-- are merely designators used unoffically to tell the differences between one manufacturer's engines. In other words- basically the same thing as your 2nd sentence... the difference being it was seldom used in marketing/advertising besides that done by Chevy. It does not refer to either bore size nor displacement, but exterior length x width x height measurements.

    Pontiac's 301 was NOT the same block as the 326--455 block. BTW, the previous Pontiac V8s (287/317/347/370) also were NOT the same block as the 326--455 block but external dimensions (as with the 301) were similar.

    I don't have the dimensions of the early Dodge or DeSoto Hemi's handy. Here's what I do have regarding MoPar V8s:

    273, 318, 340, 360 -- 24" x 29" x 27"

    361, 383, 400, 413, 426W, 440 -- 29.5" x 30" x 29"
     
    331, 354, 392 -- 29" x 31" x 31"
     
    426 HEMI -- 29" x 32" x 32"

    Obviously there will be variations with different years/equipment. For example, the early 331s had an obvious extended block; made the casting about 6 inches longer! Also, in a pic I have the 392 is an inch or 2 longer than the late 331 & 354. But the figures are probably averaged enough to show a clear small block/big block difference, I think.

    As far as a 318 wide block would go: I think as long as the other 2 dimensions were consistant with the regular 318 it could still be considered a small block. Remember; technically these are unofficial terms rather than black-n-white definitions.
  • ndancendance Member Posts: 323
    ...and I always thought that a 350 Chevrolet small block weighed 350/283 as much as a 283.

    Now that I think about it, a MK IV 427 is going to weigh less than a 396...

    and a 1955 265 is going to weigh less than a 1956.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 26,088
    The fuel line on the Carter is on the front side, while on the Holley, it was on the engine side and curved around to the front. But both brands fuel lines went to a fuel filter in the same location, so it was easy to either bend the line to fit, or substitute a fuel line from the other brand.

    From that description, it sounds like my '69 Dart GT had the Carter carb and not the Holley. But it's been 15 years since I wrecked that car and 13 since I got rid of it, so my memory could be getting fuzzy.

    Still, I remember getting good fuel economy out of it...maybe 15-18 in local driving and 22-23 on the highway at a steady 70-75, a/c running full blast. The only thing I remember is that car absolutely HATED cold, damp weather. It could be snowing and that car would run fine, but in damp, rainy weatehr where the temps were around 40-50 degrees, it was almost impossible to kee running.

    After I totaled that '69 I got a '68 Dart with a 318-2bbl. I remember one day, going to the gas station, and seeing a guy with a '74 or so Valiant. We started chatting about our cars, and I found out his had a slant six. This was during a time when fuel prices were expensive...probably $1.30-1.40 per gallon! :P I commented that while I like the power of the V-8, I sure envy the fuel economy of the slant six right about now. I told him I was only getting around 13/17. That's when he said "Hell, that's about all I get!"

    I guess that's an indication of how far downhill the emissions controls and other strangulations took engines in the 70's. :sick:
  • richardlrichardl Member Posts: 9
    Anybody out there know where I might obtain a replacement dashboard for a 69 Ply Baracuda. The car has only 32,000 original miles, but spent 20+ years in a limestone mine where the humidity apparently mottled the plastic trim on the dashboard dials. It is presently being restored, but we can't seem to find a dashboard in good clean condition. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 26,088
    Well, I don't know where you're located, but the Mopar Nationals is coming up July 7-9, at Carlisle PA. There are plenty of parts vendors there so it would probably be one of your better bets.

    There are also a few online Mopar club/mailing lists you could join, and put out a message saying what you're looking for.
  • richardlrichardl Member Posts: 9
    Thanks for the reponse! I'm in Pittsburgh, PA, about a 3 hour drive from Carlisle, and I think I might just do that! Thanks again.
  • kosarinkosarin Member Posts: 14
    i got my son a '71 dart last year that ran but i've already sunk about a grand in it to keep it going...sucker won't start and i'm mechanically inept (almost made it a carbeque when i tried hooking a wire from coil to battery!)...question is, should i sell "as is"?...sink more $$ into it?...or donate to charity?...also, if anyone knows a good but cheap mechanic in d.c. area who knows these cars, please drop me a line...thanks!
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 26,088
    Where in the DC area are you? I'm in Prince George's County, Bowie/Greenbelt area, and I know a few mechanics. Can't say any of 'em are really cheap anymore though, and sometimes it gets harder and harder to keep these older cars running. Something like a Dart or Valiant though, is about as simple as it gets with respect to mechanical stuff.

    I don't know if it's worth it to donate to a charity, because these days you can only write off what the charity actually gets for the car when they sell it. Used to be you could actually write off the book value of the car, but too many people abused that, so the gov't started cracking down and now they make the charities keep more paperwork and records.

    As for sinking more money into it, it depends on what all is wrong with it, and what condition it's in. For instance, if the only thing that's not making it run is a $2.99 ballast resistor, or a burnt-up set of points, then by all means get them fixed. But if it needs an engine rebuild or has a bad tranny, and the body needs a lot of work to boot, then you'd just be throwing more money away.

    BTW, what's wrong with it now? You say it won't start, but will it do anything? Does the engine at least turn over, but not fire up? Or are you just getting nothing?

    You might also try joining an on-line Mopar club, where you could probably get a lot of tips from other members that might be able to talk you through your problems, or if nothing else, find someone who'd want a car like that.

    A '71 Swinger isn't quite in the league of something like a Hemi Roadrunner when it comes to popularity, but they definitely have their following. Heck, I kinda like them myself.
  • kosarinkosarin Member Posts: 14
    thanks for your response...i'm in fairfax county....engine cranks and guy who sold it to me came by and concluded it was ignition switch...he rigged up a wire from coil to battery terminal to start it (cautioned to have someone crank it before you touch it to battery terminal or it would screw up points)...i replaced switch but it didn't seem to help then tried doing the wiring trick and that didn't work either: wire got hot, and small fire started (blew it out)...any thoughts?....thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yep I'd replace that ballast resistor and give the car a good tune up. These old Darts are as simple as a woodstove. While you have the spark plugs out, give it a compression test.

    As for "keep or sell", it really depends on the condition of the body and interior. No sense sinking money into a really ratty car that's not worth too much even in nice condition.
  • timssantafewiftimssantafewif Member Posts: 4
    I am trying to find some help in trying to figure out the value of a 1969 Plymouth Valiant. It needs a paint job but runs. My daughter wants to buy this car and it will be her first car but I am one confused Mom. Can anyone tell me what to look for and give me some good advise? I am a single Mom and cars are not my thing. :confuse: Any help will be appreciated.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    If it runs well and has good tires and passes a mechanical inspection, I'd say with bad paint probably anywhere from $800--$1,200 should be plenty.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 26,088
    are the usual rust-out areas. Rear quarter panels, around the rear wheel openings, rocker panels, around the rear window, etc. Also, Darts, Valiants, and the '64-69 Barracuda were notorious for leaking into the driver's footwell. The fresh air intake vents in front of the windshield tend to welcome leaves, twigs, and all sorts of other junk that gets down inside the cowl. There are drain holes on either side to let the water run out, but these tend to get clogged. Water builds up and sloshes into the car.

    One other area I'd check is underneath up front, where the torsion bars are mounted to the sub-frame. This is a long rod that runs from the lower control arm in the suspension and and joins into the structure of the car a couple feet back. If this area where it joins is rotted out, the car is probably pretty much shot. It wasn't a common problem back in the day, but you are dealing with a car that's 37 years old!

    The only other thing I can think of is to check the engine. I'm presuming it's a slant six. There were two sizes that year, a 170 that put out 115 hp and a 225 that put out 145. In modern net hp terms, that's more like 85-90 hp and 110, respectively. They're both reliable, sturdy engines that should last forever, but the 170 slant six would be a dog, and in today's traffic would probably be pretty scary. Especially in instances like highway merging and such. The 225 version is much better suited to highway driving. 0-60 is nothing to brag about by today's standards, maybe 13-14 seconds, but it has no trouble at higher speeds.

    The slant six is also reasonably economical. I had a '69 Dart with the slant six, and got around 15-18 around town, and 22-23 on the highway. Now if this car has a 318 V-8, that's a whole different story. I had one of those too (actually still do, but it doesn't run). They had 230 hp (around 160-170 net I guess), and would probably do 0-60 in about 9 seconds.

    Now 9 seconds might not sound like much, as there are many entry-level 4-cyl models that'll do that these days, 9 seconds was just "different" somehow back then. It was less composed and sophisticated, and a little bit more raw, exciting, and dangerous. Very easy to spin the back wheels, and you'll learn what fishtailing is very quickly! And, unlike your typical modern 4-cyl where performance suffers big-time once you start loading the car up with your friends, you could almost tie a Honda Civic to the back of a V-8 Valiant or Dart and it wouldnt' care! Fuel economy would also suffer with a V-8. Now I've heard people claim to get 20+ mpg on the highway with V-8 Darts and Valiants, but I was never able to break 18. But then, oddly, I had a 1979 Newport and a 1989 Gran Fury copcar, both with 318's and both much heavier cars, and they had no trouble breaking 20 on the highway! :confuse: The Dart's 318 was much more powerful than the Newport's though, and I suspect maybe the Gran Fury's, too.

    Also, by that time, there were no high-performance versions or "special" versions of the Valiant. They just came in a 2- or 4-door sedan, and I think were offered in cheapo basic or uplevel "Signet" trim. There were no hardtops or convertibles.

    One other thing you might want to look at...the wheels. Some of these cars were still sold with tiny 13" rims, although 14" rims were much more common. If that's what this one has, at some point down the road you might want to look into getting some larger optional 14" rims. They might not be that easy to find nowadays locally, although in these days of the internet it shouldn't be hard to track some down. Just make sure you specify the 4" bolt pattern. Most Chrysler cars had a 4.5" bolt pattern, but compacts used the 4", although from around 1973 onward, models with disc brakes used the 4.5".

    As for tires, when it comes time to get new ones, if you have the 14" rim, I'd recommend a 205/70/R14. Stock was a bias ply tire that I think roughly equated to a 195/75/R14. Going one size wider and one size lower-profile improves handling considerably, without sacrificing the ride. And it's not so wide or low-profile that it would cause too much trouble in wet weather, or encourage your daughter to re-enact "Speed Racer".

    Oh, and one last thing...if your daughter gets this Valiant, I'd highly recommend that she join an internet Mopar club. While these cars are very simple and easy to work on, and mechanical parts are still quite common, it's not so easy anymore to find a mechanic that will work on them, and it's just good to have a network of friends into the same type of cars, that can help her out when the car gives her problems. And as old as it is, it WILL give her problems, no matter how often you hear people brag about how durable and bulletproof these cars were.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    What he said!

    And if she's used to a modern car's steering and brakes, she's in for a shock. But she'll get used to it in a few days if she's careful.

    If the car is a V8, I'd definitely have it checked for a cracked front frame rail, especially if the car steers "funny".
  • timssantafewiftimssantafewif Member Posts: 4
    Thank You for your Help. I am printing out all of the postings so I can make sure that the mechanic takes a look at all of it. I appreciate the help on the pricing too.
  • timssantafewiftimssantafewif Member Posts: 4
    Thank You for your Help. I am printing out all of the postings so I can make sure that the mechanic takes a look at all of it. I appreciate the help on the pricing too. It is a 4 door 225 Slant 6. I really appreciate all of your help. This car thing is quite a undertaking. I am going to have a good friend that runs the service department at a local car dealership look at it mechanically for me but I do like to know what I am getting in to. Thank you so very much.
  • timssantafewiftimssantafewif Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the help. It is greatly appreciated. Thank you for the advice.
  • st66gtst66gt Member Posts: 1
    I just purchased a 1966 Valiant that has been upgraded to a 318 V8 and basicly the engine, exhaust and transmission is in prime condition. My debate is what to do on the interior. It has the original back seat & dash but nothing else. The guy I purchased it from was given front & back seats from a Cobalt that look pretty cool but should I customize the interior or should I look for original seats, etc. and where would I get them from. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Oh, get comfortable seats by all means, but I'd suggest period (60s-70s) buckets from some other Mopar rather than seats out of a modern car. The original seats are just back-breakers. You want something firm with a little bolstering on the sides, but not something so modern as to be jarring. eBay is your place to go, or the parts section of Hemmings Motor News. You can always take your used seats and have them rebuilt and covered to match the rest of the car's interior.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 26,088
    My '69 Dart GT had bucket seats, and they were pretty comfortable. They actually had a noble attempt at side bolstering! When that car got wrecked, I held onto it for parts for a couple years, and the seats were one thing I stripped out of it. I had them in my '68 Dart 270 for awhile.

    Normally, you'd think bucket seats would be more comfortable than a bench, but sometimes they're not. I have a friend who had a '66 Charger, and the seats in that thing were HORRIBLE! They were narrow, not very well-padded, pretty flat as I recall, and the backrest was way too low. It only came up about to the bottom of my shoulder blades. If I got rear-ended in that car, I'd be toast!

    Oh, if this car originally had a bench seat, and you want to put buckets in, you're going to have to drill two extra holes on either side. When I did that with my '68 Dart, I had to shim the seats on the inner side, because there was a support bracket on the outer part where the bench seat bolts went through the sheetmetal, but nothing on the inner part. With factory buckets, they would've added a support bracket towards the middle.

    Now I probably didn't do it the safest way in the world. I just drilled the holes and then used some pieces of wood to shim it. Then underneath, I just sprayed some undercoat stuff on to keep the fresh holes from leaking or rusting.

    As for seats in general, any '63-66 Valiant or Dart interiors should swap in. However, if the car is a 2-door, the vinyl side panels in back seat from a Dart would be too long. The Dart rode a 5-inch longer wheelbase back then, and unlike many GM and Ford cars of the era, that actually translated into a bigger back seat with more legroom, but that also meant that the vinyl side trim panels had to be longer in the Dart. In 4-doors, I think the back doors were the same size, but the back seat was just moved further back between the C-pillars, so you just had more exposed plastic in the C-pillar trim.

    While the 1967-76 Valiant/Dart/Barracuda was a new design (well, as new as was possible; back then they always found a way to carry over as much of the old designs as possible. :blush: ) but is about the same size inside. I doubt that the door panels would fit, but the seats might swap in.

    Where are you located? The Mopar Nationals in Carlisle, PA is coming up July 7-9. They have tons of vendors there selling old and new stuff, so you might be able to find something there that catches your eye.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You really need to weld in new seat brackets, but it's not as hard as it sounds. You can work from underneath, welding in say a 4" X 4" steel plate that has a nut already attached (welded) to it. So once in place (and you'd better get the hole pattern right!) you just bolt it in with some lock tight and then double-bolt it underneath. That's all the factory did anyway.

    I loathe bench seats because they fatigue your body. You are constantly using your back muscles to stay straight on curvy roads. It's exhausting over time.
  • pushbutton318pushbutton318 Member Posts: 1
    I have a brand new autolite battery in my '64 Dodge Dart GT, and the batt. keeps dieing when I try to start the car. I've checked all the connections and they're fine, and my alternator seems to work. It could be my voltage regulator or the battery i bought is too small(cca=630, ca=750). Any input would help.
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