Oil Changes
I have a 99 ford escort and was wandering how often i have to do an oil change. I have 107,000 kms on it and drive at least 70km a day.
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It still runs great. I change the oil every 3000
miles.
The oil naturally drained out when the filter was punctured, but I didn't even think of this as a potential benefit at the time...I was just thankful he got the filter off!
I had to do that trick again, about 10 years later. The oil filter on my '79 Newport was on too tight, and instead of twisting off, it crumpled up! The top part of the cannister twisted, but the base did not, causing it to twist, kinda wasp-waisted, in the middle. I remembered Granddad's old screwdriver trick, and it came off without a hitch.
Thankfully, I think that was the last time I put an oil filter on too tight!
An icepick (I think there's some similar tool called an "awl", too) would be fine for draining an oil filter. If you ever need to use a screwdriver to get a filter off though, make sure you use one long enough to punch all the way through both sides of the filter, so you'll have the leverage to get it off.
Also, oil filters serve absolutely no function, except maybe to impede the flow of oil.
Do what??!!
Someone actually said that?
Hmmm, I have alot of data that says otherwise.
This vehicle has an engine oil life monitor. The GM Oil Life System will show when to change the engine oil and oil filter. This will usually occur between 5,000 km (3,000 mi) and 12,500 km (7,500 mi) since the last oil change. Under severe conditions, the indicator may come on before 5,000 km (3,000 mi).
Vehicle should not be driven more than 12,500 km (7,500 mi) or 12 months without an oil and oil filter change. The system will not detect dust in the oil. So if the vehicle is driven in a dusty area, be sure to change the oil and oil filter every 5,000 km (3,000 mi) or sooner if the "CHANGE OIL SOON" indicator comes on. Reset the system when the oil has been changed.
RESETTING PROCEDURE
Turn the ignition to ON without starting the engine.
Fully push and release the accelerator pedal slowly three times with-in five seconds.
If the "CHANGE ENG OIL" light flashes for five seconds, the system is reset. If the light does not flash, repeat the procedure.
Can you provide please. Personally, in todays engines and with todays oils I am heavily leaning to stating that filters are pretty much useless and for catastrophic failures only. They basically capture no contaminants and due at times impede flow. The oil does all the work.
So, if you have "actual real life studies" and data please provide.
To compile it would be a ton of work, but let's look at it from the standpoint of the engine.
Most filters are what, 15 micron, so anything smaller than that goes thru the system. 15 microns will go thru the clearances of the bearings, so they usually pass thru and are suspended in the oil. Anything larger than the 15-25 micron won't pass thru the clearances, so they will do damage. When you figure the clearances, they are more than the 15 micron.
Hydraulic systems on the other hand require 5 micron filtering, because of the closer tolerances in the valving, motors and pumps. So alot of hydraulic filters filter 5 micron and above. The design principle is that the 5 micron particles will pass between the tolerances of the valves and pumps, anything large should be captured in the filter and not go thru the system.
You can pull apart any oil filter and see the results of the +15 micron particles.
Now, about what has been proven in real life studies. The trucks that I work on are extreme duty trucks, range from 1 tons to 120,000 lb haulers. They all get oil analysis done on them.
In extreme cases (hauling in high heat, extremely dusty and smokey conditions hauling machinery into fire areas) on the heavy haulers, there has been occasion where the oil filter became plugged and the oil bypassed. In those instances, the silicate, copper, lead and tin content spiked.
silicate is dirt and water. copper, lead and tin are bearings. You can pretty much draw a conclusion from that.
We simply do not have those.
Now I know that isn't something that happens alot, but my point is, that it is better to have an added edge to protect your engine.
I think those old oil filters were a different design, too. There used to be something called an oil bath, but I don't know what it was. My buddy's '55 DeSoto Coronado had one. My '57 Firedome has a round cannister that you have to take off, and there's a drop-in filter. Real pain in the butt to change...you have to get all the little gaskets lined up just right or it'll leak like crazy. I could almost understand it if people didn't change these things!
Chrysler started using the spin-on type oil filter that is so common today in 1958, on the wedge-head big-block engines. I don't know who actually first came out with it, though.
What kind of filter would a 1950 Buick have had?
nasty, dirty, evil, tarry creatures those oil bath filter cans were. I can imagine the air filter unit would be even worse, but I seem to remember that car had a dry filter for air.
ish. much nicer to pour the old oil out of a spin-on, feel how much heavier it is than the new one, and how much dirtier the oil is coming out the center hole than out the edge holes (the direction of filtering in recent Fords I have owned.)
I have no doubt the filter is catching things I would not want sprayed on one side of the rod bearings.
you're into hot philosophical discussion time as to whether you should dump the factory oil early or leave it in. chevy says leave it in. a large number of posters on this board including me figure on dumping factory oil and filter early, anyplace from 500 miles to 2000.
if you're headed out on a trip of a couple days and will be back in town before you hit 5000 miles, it will be changed then at GM standards.
if you wanna be a creaky old crank and try for 300,000 miles on the engine, change it before you leave and use a new GM oil filter as well.
K&N oil filters, if you are going for reusable, their great. If you are looking for performance enhancement, not gonna be much.
The additives, don't waste your money.
http://www.ftc.gov/opa/2001/02/zmax1.htm
Thank you.
Fpasos
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
best advice... read the maintenance section of the owners manual thoroughly. somewhere in there they will say how to zap the button. if you have the oil change and complimentary 17 point inspection done at the dealer, of course, expect (and demand if it isn't done) that they should clear the tickler.
And, in anyone's opinion, how is the escort on gas?
TB
if you hear the same hum for a couple seconds, and then it stops, it is your fuel pump. if it takes a second or two to start, and continues, it's likely the blower motor for the heat and a/c.
this is alleged to be perfectly normal, and the reason you have a CD full of tunes in the first place with you
Well, all I have in my car is a radio, anyway. No CD player and no tape player... It sucks but that's ok....as long as my car works. I'll try your advice! And you say this is perfectly normal for my car to do this? I hope so because it's really annoying!!
Hope I don't sound too stupid....I know absolutely nothing about cars...lol!!
I am considering buying a 2002 5-speed Chevy Prizm from a private seller. It has 20000 miles on it, clear title, CARFAX shows it was registered as a private party vehicle in the town the seller is from.
Now my question: the seller claims to have done all the oil changes himself at 3k intervals, with synthetic oil, too, but he did not keep the receipts. He has no problem with the mechanic of my choice going over the car in detail and confirming (or disproving) his statements. I trust this mechanic since I worked with this little shop for several years.
Is it reasonable that a mechanic can determine whether oil was changed regularly on a car of this type? I am not talking every 3k miles - 4 or 5 times over 20k miles would have been nice. Thanks for you input,
you see, a little excess suspicion can be a powerful influence causing severe doubt and worry.
there is always a risk in a used car, always. there is no absolute satisfaction because there is always a way to fake something. if the oil is "dirty" in this car now, an oil analysis should be neutral... and your mechanic can arrange for one to bolster his professional opinion on the state of the car now. but if the seller "just wanted to be sure the next owner has a good start in my little baby," and has only 30 miles on this oil, it won't say much.
since you have come to trust your mechanic, it's really in his hands. for the most part, prism owners keep 'em for years and run 'em until there is no more to give, and everybody I know with one swears it's the best car they've had, or one of the best. if the car has been hammered, your mechanic should be able to tell from the outboard running gear (wheels, shocks/struts, exhaust dents and condition of the hangers, tie rods and ball joints) and by sniffing the tailpipe with a gas analyzer. if the clutch is beat up, that's a clue... if not, THAT's a clue.
it will be hard to prove conclusively it was babied, though.