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Comments
I replaced it with Ow-20 mobil1 within 200 miles.
Anyway - I assume the closer-tolerances things also holds some water, and I've decided to use the recommended weight only. A lot of people, however, have put forth credible arguments for the use of 5W30 (at least during initial break-in and warm days)
Of course, I switched to Mobil 1 0W20
For anyone who's interested, my second oil change will happen this weekend, after almost 5K miles on the first change (1200; now 6100). Mazda OEM filter and Mobil1 0W20. I will be sending a sample out for an analysis (UOA) to determine how well the engine has broken in. I will post the results here (and elsewhere!).
There are numerous discussion groups that handle this issue and many more, if you're interested in the learning more about oil.
Thanks
Also, I hear a ticking sound whenever the wipers move up. Is this expected?
The dealer has put a lot of felt tape in the center console, but it still rattles everytime I hit a bump. Has anybody found a solution to this?
Thanks for your help.
Mazda shipped the converter via overnight freight from California to central KY. I'll let you know if it works. If it does, then those of you with smell problems may want to check into this yourself.
When I drove the car over a bumper or a pothole at low speed I did notice a deep sound coming from the back wheels, just like something it's rolling inside the trunk. Somebody told me that calipers and pads may be responsible for this.
I am also full of a lot of rattling noises coming from everywhere(dashboard, door panels, sunglasses compartment)
The mpg it's in my opinion too low for a 4 cyl. engine. I got an average 25-25.5 mpg, combined city & highway(I use to drive 90% on the highway)
I have to learn how to live with this new Mazda "wonder" :-)
Best regards
My headliner did make tiny rattle sound, but a "judicious" thump over the area where the sound emanated fixed it permanently.
The tick or "click" you hear when the windshield wipers are on is normal. You should hear it every time the wipers leave their resting position. It is the electronic relay that you are hearing, which is position behind the dashboard.
Read bobistheoilguy
I wanted to know why "this" person wants to switch?
u never know when u can be surprised
Regarding the rattle, it comes only on uneven roads from the center console area. Something like the console chrome piece moving up and down. I am not sure if this happens in cars of every make. I wonder if more felt would help. There's only one dealer within 50 miles, and this is all he says he can do. Has anybody successfully resolved this problem?
I remember reading about the sunglasses holder making rattles that sound like they're in the dash. Sure enough, he opened the sunglasses holder and held it while I drove. Guess what? No rattle! They are finding a way to fix it right now. Hopefully, I should have my car back tomorrow with a new window regulator and HVAC blower fan in addition to a 10-page repair order telling me how they couldn't duplicate many other problems and that the exhaust leak noise and non-sealing defrost registers are "normal."
What version do you have? (I've got a Redfire 6S with all the packages)
How many miles did your car have on it when you bought it? (mine had 430--a dealer trade they told me, which was true, but the original dealer was only a 100 or so miles away)
You said you got a good deal. So did I--paid 300 over invoice.
Very minimal rust on mine--only detectable with a Q-Tip. Yours?
They (at least Ford) did a complete volte face on recommended oil a few years ago, retroactive on older engines as well, saying 5W20 was required. Caused a few problems for people with Ford engines that were fully seated and used to 30 weight. They then came out with a quick TSB to allow 30 weight oils as well.
My rust is plainly visible in the vertical weatherstripping channels. Pull the weatherstripping back on the horizontal channels and rust is found. The rust has bubbled and flaked-off the paint in areas. Pretty bad considering it hasn't rained since the spring.
The only issue I would be concerned about is the rust in the doors. Mazda has admitted to the problem and is working on a solution, which should be within a month. Check your car over thoroughly before taking delivery. Go to:
http://www.4doorzoom.1hwy.com/m6_rust.html
You will see where the problems are occuring and what to look for.
Upon signing the deal for my '04 6S today, I was tracked down by Mazda internet person I had emailed last night. I also called before hand and go the same answer from the 1-800 #. Thanks jstandefer ! You the man. I took q tips (you had to see the guys face when I did this,,,,priceless) and check the car over,,,no rust! YIPPIE< and the car was ooutside and dirty so I know that it saw the elements. I also checked for the smell factor,,,didn't smell but ran that by the lady also who said that Mazda is aware of that problem and working on it, and they're are no recalls on it at the moment.
So the deal is as far as what I was told today, the 6s's built between 1-03 and 7-03 have the rust problem,,,because they used a soapy substance to ease the installation of the weatherstripping, which did not react well with the paint. I was told that this lubrication substance was discontinued after July 03, so if anyone has a build after that please look on the inner door jam label and make sure. As far as I am told cars built after that should not have the rust problem. I gather all you all should go to your dealers and have them remove all the weatherstripping and clean it, and have them use something other than the soapy substance that was used in the first place good luck.
As for my new car, I pick it up tomorrow! I am getting a an '04 s w/5 speed, sports, luxury, Bose, sunroof, ULEV, and side air bags & Curtains,,,,,wish me LUCK! THe only option I didn't get that i wanted was the auto dim mirror, but I have friends that tell me they didnt like it on their maximas and other cars so oh well, no compass,,no big whoop.
I don't know about that explanation of the rust. We have collected build dates from 9/02 to 7/03, so that seems to match. But, many of us have found the paint near the weatherstripping channels to be really thin with plenty of imperfections such as bubbles, fisheyes, and milking. There are several places on mine where I can see the primer through the paint!
Plus, if this "soapy substance" is interacting with the paint, then why aren't we experiencing rusting in the weatherstripping channels? They seem fine... it is the gap between the weatherstripping channels and the door frame that is rusting!
Love your post title!
I'm not buying this explanation for a second, that's some bs they came up with to try to calm people down. Just look at the photos on the mazda6 rust webpage - not only the areas near weather stripping are affected, also as mentioned many times this rust starts UNDER the paint.
My advice to you guys is to call the 1-800 number and see what they tell you about the "soapy" "lube" on the weather stripping.. I wondered about the trunk hinges too after seeing the pics and the weatherstripping does come down on that area,,,,maybe I am just being optimistic,,,,?
I got the Steel Grey BTW,,,,
and,,,maybe this whole rust thing is a combination of the lubrication causing a retention of water/dew on an area that was poorly painted due to another issue, what do you think? I know im reaching but it could be possible,,,if this is a wide scale problem,,it can always be rectified with a wide scale solution,,,repeat after me,,,,class action law suit,,,,,but i wouldnt go there just yet,,,i say everyone that has rust send a letter demanding an answer and if its not rectified then a CA can be explored,,,im sure many law firms would love to sink their teeth into this one if need be....
I know it's far fetched but it's just another way to look at what jbah's Mazda reps told him. It would also explain how the rust is forming from underneath the paint if in fact the "soap" statement is true.
Mazda's "soap" theory may be right but we just don't have all the details yet.
zoom zoom rust,?,,blah,,,,i really feel for you guys
Break in: How long before I can start really driving this car? (by this i mean,,getting on it a little bit) 1500 miles? When should my first oil change be? 2000 miles? I was only told by the dealer to drive the car at variable speeds but they didn't specify how high I should take the RPM's,,,just wondering?
Wax: I would like to put a first coat of wax on before the winter here in NYC,,,when should I do this? How long should I wait before putting wax on if the car was assembled in Sept?
thanks,,,
Varying your speeds, and revs, and not revving too high, too frequently or for too long at a time all seem like smart things to do. Do so to the extent you safely can, giving your driving needs, style, constraints and safety (you don't want to merge onto a freeway super slowly in 5th gear BECAUSE you're running the car in!)
As for the rest ...
a. I switched to synthetic Mobil 1 0W20 at 1250-ish miles. Then changed again last weekend at around 6K. People have waited longer, others less. Some have stayed with Mazda's Motorcraft blended oil, some have switched to slightly different weights/vicosities (synth and dino) etc.
b. I first waxed mine (built May or June 03, bought end June 03) on the 11th of July, 03. I did not use an abrasive wax, or cleaner - just a good mild (car) soap wash, followed by simple, light coat with Meguiar's Gold Class.
Read some detailing fora and discussions as well as oil discussions here and elsewhere, and make your own (better-informed) decisions and choices. You'll feel better about it, and love the car more for it.
What is this "sailboats"?
The sailboats are the area above and behind the rear door that connect the top of the car to the body. That is where the orange peel is most evident, however, it can been seen in the door panels also.
I was talking to an older friend of mine who is well versed with many cars, a benz freak who tells me that any new car he had he never babied too much. I will resort to driving normally without redlining the motor or being abusive. Like you said. u don't want to be re-ended while trying to merge just to not get on the car a little bit. Last night some cop put his lights on behind my, thinking I was being pulled over,,,he wasn't even though he switched lanes to get behind me,,,what this was for? I don't know. Maybe he was envious even though i was only doing 60 in a 50. I got off the next exit and he kept going,,,thank god.
I have the car about 28 hours know and I think I am going to camp out in it tonight,,,,just kidding. I really really am happy with this car so far,,,its so silky smooth and refined. I am so glad I am not drining around in a MUNDANE altima, accord or camrygrampa car. I think all of us are on the same page about this car,,,it seems the other car companies aren't making cars for me aside from BMW and Audi, which I can not afford. I wanted a new car so this one fit the bill.
For the 5 speed manual owners on the board,,,do you notice the clutch engages pretty high? Is this normal,,,I know the car has to break in before adjustments, just wondering if this is because it's a hydraulic clutch or something?
regarding the speakers,,,my BOSE suits me fine,,,I am glad my rear speakers are lower cause when my mother gets in the car sometimes, she will ask me to lower it anyway. The front sounds great and thats all I car about. The Bose speakers have significantly less distortion than the stock speakers. I played some hard drum n bass in the dealership and knew the stock ones werent for me,,,,,
all the best,!
A new kind of rattling has come in the interior now. It seems to start near the center console, and move to the back of the car, after which it starts again at the console and repeats the cycle (this might be some sort of resonance).
The dealer scratched a trim piece while taking my center console piece out the last time, so he ordered a new one. It seems like that trim piece is not available separately, but only comes with the whole dash, so he says he might have to replace the whole dash. Is this a good idea?
actually they did take help of REAL audiophiles.
and what you see(hear) is the result of that.
they are "filler" speakers aka surround speakers in a high end system.