Mazda6 Maintenance and Repair

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  • 1txbanker1txbanker Member Posts: 8
    I purchased a new 2004 Mazda6s with the V6 and the 5MT back in September. Since then I have noticed that occassionally I have to take out the rear floor mats to allow the carpet to dry out to avoid the smell of mildew. I do not have kids so no one rides back there. I discovered the smell of mildew this morning after a week of no rain. I pulled the floormats and sure enough, the right rear was wet on the underneath side. The last time the car was wet was on Saturday when I washed it with a hose. I fear I have a leak somewhere, but have looked for one and can't find it. Has anyone else had this problem?

     

    Again, the water seems to be coming from underneath the carpet. I am very concerned.
  • may31may31 Member Posts: 2
    I had the same problem but since they changed the defective throttle part there have been no reaccurances. (knock on wood)
  • bluem6ibluem6i Member Posts: 77
    Check the window seals, particularly, the rear window. I had a 94 Saturn with a rear window leak and the water ran down inside the "C" pilar and puddled in the back seat floor pan. Also check to see if the headliner is wet around the rear window.

     

    You could get inside the car and have someone else spray the hose around the windows as you look for and feel for the leak.
  • karyakartakaryakarta Member Posts: 17
    Hello All

     

    I have a few questions for you:

    1. I am thinking about installing an aftermarket remote starter on my car (2003 Mazda6 2.3 automatic). Any good, cheap, reliable brand that you recommmend? Currently, I already have a good aftermarket alarm installed in my car, and I have no wish to get rid of it. Is it possible to add another moodule on top of an existing alarm system? I don't mind having to have two remotes with me.

    2. I am also thinking about trying to change the mazda6 oil myself. I was told by the service manager at Don Miller Mazda (in Madison, WI) that the process is a lot more complicated than any other Japanese car (e.g. Toyota Camry). Is it ture?

    3. How many quarts of oil do you put in?

    4. What is the grade of oil do you use? I am planning on either using a Mobil One Synthetic oil 0W20 or a Valvoline Durablend 5W30.

    5.What is your interval between oil changes? Does using a synthetic or semi-synthetic oil warrant you not to change your oil as often as conventional oil? I have seen BMW and Benz being required to change their synthetic oil every 12,000 miles.

    6. Does anyone know the extra advantage on buying a K&N air filter? I am unable to decide whether to buy a $60 dollars K&N air filter or a $15 Fram Air Filter.

    7. Last of all, What is exactly a brake moan? My car's brakes are always making noises whenever I try to make an ordinary complete stop.

     

    Please number your responses according to the questions. I would like to thank you guys in advance and wish everyone a merry christmas and a happy new year! Cheers!!!
  • karyakartakaryakarta Member Posts: 17
    Does anyone ever install a Pioneer GPS AVEC-N1 or similar kind of built in motorized navigation system with touch screen? A local shop is asking for $2200 to custom installed a Pioneer AVEC-N1 on my car. Basically, they are going to take out the curent face plate on my mazda6 and get rid of the existing radio system. Then, they will cover all the holes from the radio/CD button and repaint the whole face plate, while making sure that the opening on the center console is just big enough for the pioneer system. Does anybody else have a better suggestion/recommendation?
  • karyakartakaryakarta Member Posts: 17
    Hello All

      

    I have a few questions for you:

    1. I am thinking about installing an aftermarket remote starter on my car (2003 Mazda6 2.3 automatic). Any good, cheap, reliable brand that you recommmend? Currently, I already have a good aftermarket alarm installed in my car, and I have no wish to get rid of it. Is it possible to add another moodule on top of an existing alarm system? I don't mind having to have two remotes with me.

    2. I am also thinking about trying to change the mazda6 oil myself. I was told by the service manager at Don Miller Mazda (in Madison, WI) that the process is a lot more complicated than any other Japanese car (e.g. Toyota Camry). Is it ture?

    3. How many quarts of oil do you put in?

    4. What is the grade of oil do you use? I am planning on either using a Mobil One Synthetic oil 0W20 or a Valvoline Durablend 5W30.

    5.What is your interval between oil changes? Does using a synthetic or semi-synthetic oil warrant you not to change your oil as often as conventional oil? I have seen BMW and Benz being required to change their synthetic oil every 12,000 miles.

    6. Does anyone know the extra advantage on buying a K&N air filter? I am unable to decide whether to buy a $60 dollars K&N air filter or a $15 Fram Air Filter.

    7. Last of all, What is exactly a brake moan? My car's brakes are always making noises whenever I try to make an ordinary complete stop.

    8. Does anyone ever install a Pioneer GPS AVEC-N1 or similar kind of built in motorized navigation system with touch screen? A local shop is asking for $2200 to custom installed a Pioneer AVEC-N1 on my car. Basically, they are going to take out the curent face plate on my mazda6 and get rid of the existing radio system. Then, they will cover all the holes from the radio/CD button and repaint the whole face plate, while making sure that the opening on the center console is just big enough for the pioneer system. Does anybody else have a better suggestion/recommendation?

      

    Please number your responses according to the questions. I would like to thank you guys in advance and wish everyone a merry christmas and a happy new year! Cheers!!!
  • fitguyfitguy Member Posts: 220
    Regarding K & N filters, I have one on my Expedition but not on my Mazda 6S (too new)- I increased mileage by about 1.5 mpg on the Exped and got noticably better performance, esp when towing. I would be careful about putting one on your 6 if it's still under warranty- increased airflow of the K & N has a tradeoff of less filtration. There's an interesting test of K & N

    vs. paper filters on this website: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

    I will probably stay with the paper element for my M6 and just change it more frequently.
  • hus28hus28 Member Posts: 8
    I just purchased an 04 Mazda 6 5-door with the V6 engine up in New Hampshire. After driving the car home I noticed that the space behind the rear passenger tire and the wheel well was very tight. I could barely get my finger around the tire. I just took the car into the dealership (Talarico) and they said that there was no problem with the car and that the 3/8" +/- spacing was adequate. I guess this is where the gas tank is located. My big concern is that if I run over something and it gets stuck in that area it can cause hazardous damage to the gas tank and the tires will not last. If I decide to throw a large oven (for example) in the trunk the entire frame will go down and the gas tank will hit the tire. I think this is a real hazard and wanted to know how I could find out what the federal regulations are for spacing between the tire and the wheel well.

     

    Also, if you guys can check your cars and tell me if you are concerned with this as well. The dealer told me that no one else has mentioned this problem.
  • pj23pj23 Member Posts: 158
    I have an '04 wagon, and I noticed the same thing with my rear passenger side tire. I haven't asked for it to be checked out, as I haven't had a problem yet in the 12,000 miles I've put on the car. I'll try to remember to check the ones on the dealer lot the next time I'm there for service.
  • hus28hus28 Member Posts: 8
    Thanks for the reply. I checked the other 04 and 05 models on the lot and they were pretty much the same.

     

    Can you check the inside of the rear passenger tire and see if there is any wear on the tire.

     

    I live in NH and am concerned with the snow that gets stuck in the wheel well after it snows. Usually the snow hardens and this can also wear the tire down.
  • rattlerrattler Member Posts: 7
    Is brake squeal common at low temperatures (~20-35F)? I've been hearing it on my 6i for the past few days, even though dealer inspection says brake status is "Green".

     

    I also hear the squealing while turning into a parking spot and applying the brake. This happens under hot and cold conditions.
  • grahambgrahamb Member Posts: 47
    While that installation would make the avic-n1 work, it would disable the LCD screen in the 6 that displays the time and climate control information...this may or may not be a big deal to you, probably depends on if you have the automatic climate control, or the manual.

     

    This happens because the main circuit board for the lcd is integrated as part of the head unit. The only really successful install that i've seen involved relocating the mazda head unit to the trunk, and running the proper wires from it to the LCD.

     

    Installer probably does not know about this, so it may wind up being more expensive, or just done incorrectly.

     

    There is a kit in the works that will make all of this easier, but it's release date keeps getting pushed back. It was supposed to come out this week, but was pushed back to early next year.

     

    good luck.
  • slickdogslickdog Member Posts: 225
    1. Don't have much to say about remote starters, I'm not really interested in them.

     

    2. I wouldn't say changing the oil is a lot more complicated, just different. The Mazda6 engines have a cartridge type oil filter, instead of a self contained spin-on type filter. Apparently Mazda has a special tool for removing the filter housing, but I see mention on other Mazda6 forums of using socket or strap filter wrenches successfully. It looks like there is also a cover on the underside of the engine compartment which needs to be removed to gain access to the filter and drain plug. No big deal, just an extra step. Some other makes have this as well.

     

    3. You can find this in the back of your owner's manual, you need 4.5Q when you replace the oil and filter in a 2.3L engine.

     

    4. Haven't changed my oil yet, but I'll probably stick with the Motorcraft 5W20 for now, and perhaps go to the Mobil1 synthetic in the future if I feel like spending the extra $$$. The Motorcraft (apparently what Mazda uses) seems to be highly regarded by users on other Mazda6 forums, and of course there are always a lot of Mobil1 fans about.

     

    5. Both my cars get their oil changed at about 6K miles, which works out to twice a year, spring and fall. Depending on the conditions you operate your vehicle in, Mazda specifies either a 5K or 7.5K oil change interval. Personally, I'm not comfortable straying outside of that range no matter what type of oil I use, but others may feel differently.

     

    6. Many who use K&N filters swear by them, but I have never invested in one. I'm not convinced the horsepower and acceleration they supposedly add would be all that noticeable, but they do have the advantage of being reusable for something like 10 years.

     

    7. I haven't experienced brake moan on my car, but others seem to be having problems with it. I don't recall if anyone has posted the diagnosis or cure for their brake moan problem here.
  • troybentroyben Member Posts: 42
    Rattler, I am having the same exact problems on my 03 6i, 16K miles. I'm bringing it in to the dealer on Dec 28 for service, leaving it overnight so they can road test in morning when it's the worst. I think there is a TSB for the moan you get when turning into a parking spot. Will let you know what happens.
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
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  • m6hatchm6hatch Member Posts: 3
    I have 1200 miles on my 2005 M6 Hatchback. About a week ago, the check engine light came on. I took it to the dealer who said I most likely had a loose gascap. However, I did inquire about possible fuel tank leak issues since I was confident that the cap was on properly. 2 days after leaving the dealership, the light came on again, so I took it to a different dealer. The new dealership diagnosed the problem as the charcoal canister leak, and they ordered a new part. I love the way the car drives, but this issue is getting a little annoying. I hope that the problem will be fixed once the new part arrives.
  • jpzengerjpzenger Member Posts: 4
    My Mazda 6 was just totalled in a high speed rear collision by a hit and run SUV. I walked away with a couple scratches. The crash also pushed me into two cars in front of me. The passenger compartment was completely intact.

     

    The next day, I called up my dealer and said "I want another one just like it." This time, I'm getting the side air bags too.
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Member Posts: 1,230
    Wow! I hope everyone was okay. I hope they find the (bleep) in the SUV that bolted. Did you get his license plate?

     

    I was glad that they made the side airbags standard for '05. My dealer took an extra week to find my 6S, specifically because I wanted the side airbags. With all the idiots on the road these days, any extra protection is worth it!
  • jahnu04jahnu04 Member Posts: 58
    A week after buying my new wagon I noticed a scratch on leather surface on the top of the steering wheel. The scratch is less than an inch long with a small thread out and it is perpendicular to the driver.

     

    I did not take any sharp objects inside the car and certainly not my nails. I think the scratch was there when I bought the car (can't prove it!).

    If it was my nail, then I suppose the leather will be all shreds in a year.

     

    When I first spoke to the salesperson she said its under warranty we will fix it, but when I took it for service, the service manager said there was no defect in the vehicle, well, that is the claim they are going to make. He said, he can have an expert look at it and will be at my expense.

     

    Is there anything that I can do in this regard or should I just let it go.

     

    Winter time it gets dark too early and so did not notice it when I took the delivery. Also when you buy a new car I think its difficult to examine every inch of the vehicle. It is just a surface scratch with a thread out and its not deep, but just did not want to see it on a week old car.

     

    GK
  • sweetsixteensweetsixteen Member Posts: 40
    I have had my 04' mazda6s for about 5 months now and am relatively happy with it. Theres always the occasional quirk, but nothing that I cant deal with. Within the last couple of weeks, my car has had problems shifting between 2nd and 3rd. It is an extremely rough transition (even in full automatic mode) and is getting me a little worried. The other problem I have is everytime I release the brake pedal, there is a "crumpling" sound. Theres a few possible causes for this but I wanted to see what you guys think. I know these topics have been discussed before, but I wanted to see if anyone has had their problems fixed. Thanks.
  • karyakartakaryakarta Member Posts: 17
    Thanks for your reply. May you kindly tell me if you know the maker of the kit for custom audio system on mazda6? A website will do too. Thanks
  • jahnu04jahnu04 Member Posts: 58
    I have been hearing a "clunking" sound on my Mazda6 wagon, it sounds like a metal hitting another metal and it is from the front. I hear it a minute after the engine is shutdown. Any ideas?
  • jpzengerjpzenger Member Posts: 4
    In a post above I described an accident in which my Mazda 6 performed very well in a serious accident. It was rammed from the rear at high speed and then pushed into 2 cars in front. Here's more info:

     

    Right before my accident, the Mazda 6's ABS worked beautifully and stopped me on a sheet of ice. Unfortunately, the SUV behind me didn't stop. The SUV went completely over my Mazada6's rear bumper and totally crushed the trunk and the whole area around the gas cap. My back seat was completely intact (fortunately, there was no one else in my car).

     

    The SUV driver drove off, but had the name of his contracting company written across the back of his vehicle. The police and my insurance company are about to nail him.

     

    MZ6Greyghost:

     

    A minor correction to your post. The side air bags are an option in 2005, but are in many more vehicles than in 2004. In 2004, you had to buy all kinds of other options in order to get side air bags. ABS was made standard for 2005 -- without increasing the invoice price from 2004.
  • aic24aic24 Member Posts: 1
    1st. Yes it there is trouble changing gears but It warms up pretty quickly. 2nd. There was a brake recall and i had the same problems. Mazda changed my brake pads for free and that corrected the problem.
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Member Posts: 1,230
    Oops, that's right... The ABS was made standard, not the side airbags. Must be all this holiday cheer that's fogging my thinking... :-)

     

    Still glad to hear everything was okay. I myself witnessed a similar "Domino effect" rear-ender accident yesterday. That was due to ignorance, not the weather.

     

    Good luck with your new 6, jpzenger, and Happy Holidays to all!
  • fitguyfitguy Member Posts: 220
    Very happy to hear that mz6greygost had a safe experience- side bags/curtains are great but if the body cage caves in you've still got problems. I think when the IIHS gets around to testing the M6 with side bags it will rate 5 stars easily. For those hearing that the 6 will not handle snow well- don't (totally) believe it: I just drove mine (w/sport pkg. & 17" low profile Michelins) in one of the worst Noreasters I've been in in a while. 2-4 inches of slushy snow on mostly unplowed highway, nearly 5 hours from CT to MA. The 6 does very well if you respect it's limitations (it ain't no Subaru!) and keep it moving slow and steady. The only time the Michelins showed a lack of grip was when we stopped at a rest area to clear icy wipers- I had to feather the gas to get it moving (in about 4" soft snow); after it was rolling it was fine. No different than the Accord orPassat (I had bth previous). I've been on some tire boards where people blast the Michelins as worthless in any snow whatsoever: bunk!- if you know how to drive in snow, these tires are o.k. considering they are really summer performance tires. If I lived further North and drove in snow all the time, I would spring for snow tires; but with occasional snow the M6 isn't bad "outa the box".
  • jahnu04jahnu04 Member Posts: 58
    Fitguy:

     

    You are absolutely right. I live in Minnesota where icy and snowy roads are common. A week back we had icy conditions (terrible road condition)and there were around 280 accidents in the twin cities, my MZ6 wagon did a good job, not once did I feel that wheels were slipping/sliding. I have been here for a long time now and driven in snow even with not so great tires, never had any accidents in snow. I think the Michelins are doing a good job. I did notice the difference going from Firestone tires on my camry to Michelins on MZ6, especially when moving from a stop light.
  • tbertber Member Posts: 1
    I had that problem last week. I had to scrape out all the wheel wells front and back. Can the snow really wear down a tire?
  • hus28hus28 Member Posts: 8
    How long have you had your car? Can you check the inside tread on your tire and see if there is excessive wear on it.
  • bobcat6bobcat6 Member Posts: 1
    I have the same clutch shudder problem. 4 cyl engine. 24,000 mi. Cold shudder situation, exactly as you describe. Damp mornings make it worse. I really have to rev it up and slip it more, otherwise it shudders.

     

    I have a noisy fan motor, tick, tick tick....sounds like blades are hitting something, getting worse. You say you have a recall letter on the fan motor for a Mazda 6?
  • rattlerrattler Member Posts: 7
    Lately I've started seeing that when I turn the steering wheel a bit while driving on the highway, the car doesn't seem to turn "that much"...doesn't feel as responsive as the new car. I have 2003 6i, and it's around a year old.

     

    Anybody else experience this?
  • rattlerrattler Member Posts: 7
    Troyben, what came out of the visit to the dealer for the brake squeal?
  • yamahar6_rideryamahar6_rider Member Posts: 9
    i went to mazda Canada the head office for mazda and i told them all about my problems that im having with my car and the dealer ship...

     

    1st thing, about my gears well they call the a different dealer ship and got me appointment to see them.. what they did is (i will type what the wrote down for me) removed battery and tray, disconnect shift cables, try shifter inside vehicle good, lube shift cable and transmission shift mechaiism gk2c-46-500e, ko503 arx 1.1 sc 24dc 9w note: if reoccurs may require transmission to be removed...

     

    2nd thing.. when did this recall come about brakes? i may have to call my dealer and find out more...

     

    3rd thing mazda canada told me to NOT put in Synthetic motor oil in my car because it brakes the seals on your pistons and some other problems for long term use.. he told me only put Synthetic in it if you are going for long drives but in the city driving leave their oil in it because its HIGH end oil already... they told me to remove my Synthetic oil next oil change...
  • ericzoomericzoom Member Posts: 213
    As far as the 3rd thing goes,that sounds like their feeding you a bunch of BS.In any driving situation synthetics have been proven to have better stability and flowing properties.I and many other members have been using it in their cars without any documented problems.
  • yamahar6_rideryamahar6_rider Member Posts: 9
    Yea this happens to me too.. only when i turn my car into a parking spot.. the only time it DOESNT squeal when its rainning out, when they can wet, any other time then that always squeal...
  • yamahar6_rideryamahar6_rider Member Posts: 9
    Hey man!

     

    go call or go to your dealer and ask them, and can you please reply back to this website and tell me what they are saying about the oil because my OLD dealer told me not to say anything to mazda canada..... also they told me something about their oil filters that they cant handle 12,000km without being changed.. they recommend only 8000km for the next oil change..
  • troybentroyben Member Posts: 42
    After leaving the car at the dealer overnight, they couldn't come up with anything! Of course the weather warmed up in Chicago area that night into the 40's, so the brakes stopped squealing. As for the moan when turning into parking spots, they said Mazda did recommend a cold weather trans fluid, but the dealer didn't recommend since we don't have extreme cold in Chicago for extended periods of time. So basically it was a waste of time.
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  • carguy58carguy58 Member Posts: 2,303
    Everybody is complaining about having clutch problems with their MZ 6 on these boards. Thats weird Consumer Reports actually gave the MZ 6 a bullseye for the transmission for model years 03 and 04 meaning excellent reliability. I guess most MZ 6's are sold with AT's outnumber the number of MZ 6's sold with MT's. The brake sqeauling Mazda has to fix this. CR gave it a white circle for its first year meaning average reliability for the brakes. For CR to give the brakes a white circle for one model year means there are lot of problems with brakes with the MZ 6.
  • likaglovlikaglov Member Posts: 82
    I took my 8-month old 04-Mazda6s-AT to the dealer for it's second oil change and to have them work on my punch list. They spent two days with the car and I think they did a LOUSY job. Can anyone comment on the validity of the issues below? Do I need to contact Mazda corporate or just another dealer?

     

    1) Sulfur smell. Last time they said they would replace the Cat Converter this time. But this time they claim I don't have enough mileage yet (6000) and Mazda will only replace it after "enough miles for break-in". They did not know what the number was.

     

    2) Shift Shock. Dealer updated TCM, I have not confirmed this fix.

     

    3) Display gear # while in Drive (like in Manual). Dealer said this cannot be done - although some M6's have this feature.

     

    4) A/C always on with ACC. Dealer claims this is normal operation. Even when it is 10 degrees outside the A/C is running (while using ACC). This is STUPID! Is it really designed that way? Isn't the gas mileage bad enough without it?

     

    5) Driver's side seat-heater doesn't always work. Dealer repositioned harness so it wouldn't get pinched by the seat. It still shuts off after a couple of minutes and will not start again (by toggling switch). Is there a sensor there?

     

    6) Rattle in moonroof when shade is open. Dealer claims they could not reproduce. They must have had the radio blaring! It did it at drop-off and after pick-up. Guess I'll stop by and make them get in next time I'm out there.

     

    7) Peeling tape under rear spoiler. HEY, they fixed this!!!

     

    Sounds like it's time to find another dealer! Thanks in advance for any replies or comments.
  • tweet651983tweet651983 Member Posts: 32
    Likaglov,

     

    (1) I too had the sulfur smell, at 6,100 miles it seems to be happening much less and is less noticeable, might happen once every two weeks.

     

    (2) My build date was 2/2004, I don't know if I am affected, but I have not noticed a problem.

     

    (3)My 6S displays the gear number in Drive, I'd like to turn this feature off, but my dealer told me that it cannot be turned off.

     

    (4)I agree, a bad design.

     

    (5)Be glad you got the leather, my beige cloth is wearing very poorly. This is my only complaint on this car, otherwise I am very happy.

     

    (6) & (7) no moonroof or spoiler so I cannot comment.
  • ericzoomericzoom Member Posts: 213
    I think the later build dates have the gear # displayed in auto.My car's date is 11/03 and i don't have the display.

    I have 6800 miles and never had the sulfur smell at all.

    Are you saying the A/C is on all the time? I can shut mine off at any time.
  • likaglovlikaglov Member Posts: 82
    I can shut off the A/C, but that also shuts off the ACC as well. Which means it no longer automatically adjusts fan speed, vent direction, etc. If the ACC is being used, there is no way to turn off the A/C (even when it is running the heater). Make sense?

     

    There are times when this is handy, like defrosting the front windshield, but once it switches the vent to feet (or face) it should turn the A/C off.
  • ebeneben Member Posts: 26
    That's not the way my wagon's ACC acts; if I turn on auto, set temp, then turn off AC, it still controls vents and fan speed. If I later override vent or fan speed, auto is then off.
  • baggs32baggs32 Member Posts: 3,229
    Does the little green light on the auto button go off as well as the word "Auto" on the display? Mine does when you turn the A/C off in auto mode. I never really left it off of auto long enough to see if it would still control the fan and vents though.
  • likaglovlikaglov Member Posts: 82
    I'm curious about the wagon too...

     

    My green light and "auto" indication go off, when pressing the A/C button in my sedan. Same thing happens if you switch the fan speed or vent direction manually. You must then press "auto" again to get it back to automatic mode, but this turns A/C back on.

     

    Considering I'm only getting 19 MPG (mostly city driving) I would like the A/C off in the winter :-)
  • qddaveqddave Member Posts: 164
    In all the cases where the AC light stays on, is the AC compressor actually running all the time? I mean, the whole point of having ACC is to let the system control the quality (read; temperature AND humidity) of the air. That's what ACC (automatic climate control) means. If it was just supposed to control temperature, it would be called ATC (automatic temperature control) But just because the AC light is on doesn't neccessarily mean the compressor is engaged.
  • baggs32baggs32 Member Posts: 3,229
    In all the cases where the AC light stays on, is the AC compressor actually running all the time?

     

    Can't say for sure if it's on all the time but you can hear it cycling on and off at stoplights.

     

    I expected this system to work like the ACC in my dad's '96 Sable and his '87 Taurus before that. You hit the button for auto mode and plug in a reasonable temperature. That's it. The cabin stays that temp at all times and the A/C only comes on when needed and indicates when it does.

     

    The one in the 6, at least mine anyway, has to be cranked up to about 75F before any reasonable amount of heat comes out. When it's 40F outside, the inside temp is set to 72F, and cool air is blowing through the dash vents things tend to get a little ugly when the wife and kid are onboard.

     

    Another thing I don't like about it is how the system defaults to the fresh air A/C mode in the summer. I can switch it to recirc mode without shutting the ACC function off (just like the manual says) but it changes it back the next time I start up. I sit in city traffic twice a day and don't like smelling exhaust all the time.

     

    It's kind of a "my way or the highway" type of system and I don't think I'd ever opt for it again in a Mazda unless some changes are made.
  • likaglovlikaglov Member Posts: 82
    That is a good point, but I'm pretty sure the compressor is running the whole time (I'll open the hood and take another listen). I'm also pretty sure there ISN'T a humidity sensor in the car, though.
  • likaglovlikaglov Member Posts: 82
    baggs32 - I agree completely!

     

    I have the same issue with cabin temp. I have to crank it up to 80 to get warm air to come out. Otherwise it's blowing cold air on my feet. My wife HATES it and I thought it would be easier to use (than manual control) - WRONG.

     

    With computer controls these days, there is no excuse for a 1980's vintage ACC. It should be MUCH smarter. Problem is, it's hard to override as you've mentioned. It still wants to do it's own thing...

     

    I must admit it does cool the car in the summer.
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