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Comments
I bought the car used a couple of months ago and I noticed this happening 2 days after I bought it.
Is there anyone out there with the same year and model that is doing the same thing?
thanks
Thanks!
Now, if you're just getting little jerks, this may not be it. The service bulletin addresses owners' reports that it feels as if the car has been rear-ended--shift shock. Show your dealer the quote below, which comes from a Mazda service bulletin sent to all dealers.
"With engine in the fully warm condition, and during light throttle acceleration, 1-2 shift shock may be felt at certain times. Also, as 4-3 downshift shock maybe experienced during braking conditions. A revised TCM calibration is available to improve this concern. 1. Using WDS B30 or later software, reprogram the TCM to the latest calibration. Filename TCM cal. P/N SW-AJ58TG000 AJ58-G 2. Remember to erase all DTC's after reprogramming procedure. 3. Road test vehicle to relearn KAM and verify no MIL illumination occurs"
I bought a Mazda6 wagon (5-speed), in April 04 and recently had it in the shop because the "check engine" light would not turn off. Diagnosis came back that there was an electrical problem that was traced back to the throttle sensor. The throttle would have to be replaced. The part was back-ordered so we took the car back, waiting for the new part to come in. Dealer assured us this was a minor electrical glitch -- nothing more.
My wife was driving the car this morning at highway speed when every light on the dashboard came on at once -- at the same time, she lost power completely from the gas pedal, though the engine was apparently still running and the car was in gear. She's being towed to the dealer as we speak. So the plot thickens...
I haven't seen a service advisory for throttle problems as of yet. Please let me know if this rings any bells with this group.
--Bill Warren
Silver Spring, MD
There seems to be an occasional dripping sound which sounds like it's coming from the passenger side, perhaps behind the glove box? Anyone else experience this sound? Yes, the AC is running.
There is a very annoying rattle when the moonroof shade is open. If I put my hand in the gap, I can make it stop, but it's a bit difficult to drive that way :-) Anyone else here? I suppose I could try to jam something in there to make it stop. It pretty much makes the moonroof unusable.
Finally, I went to shift from auto to manual-matic yesterday and the shift knob twisted on me. Never had this happen before, but now it seems a little loose. Is there an adjustment for this? I'm not sure how it is attached.
I just had a visit to my (useless) dealer, who after keeping the car for 1.5 days did nothing but change the oil and claim that my hard downshifts are "normal", and that there is no fix (yet) for the cold-stall. So I'm not too anxious to head back there yet.
Thanks in advance for any help you can provide. I love these forums and the good advice that's offered here. I'm tracking those posted TSBs, in case those issues arise.
The only other complaint I have is when I turn off the A/C (too cold sometimes), an unpleasant odor comes through the vents along with the humidity - stinks!
Also, when the dealership changes the oil, I have burning oil odor for awhile - are they doing it wrong?
When I first check the (4 cyl) engine oil level with a cold engine, the oil is at the add mark. After that first check, the oil shows above full, like I've pulled oil into the dipstick tube. Can I only get an accurate reading in the morning?
...how limited is rear vision in the wagon, with its tiny windows set high and high fender shoulders filling the mirrors?
...how wonderfully sensitive the steering is, yet requires close attention to prevent wandering out of lane?
...that you can't rev the engine in AT Park to check for odd noises or the exhaust note?
...that the AT seems set to an economy mode (early upshifts)? Or did I read somewhere that the AT has something that learns my patterns? (Hope not or it will go crazy with contradictions, too.)
...that there's a bit too much of Big Brother making us do its "right thing" in a Mazda? (Witness the recent questions about rough shifting.)
Was the Fan on?
The rear visibility in my wagon is excellent, in my opinion.
Isn't sensitive steering going to require more attention, since small inputs will have a greater effect than otherwise?
I don't have an automatic transmission so I can't comment.
Ditto.
I have no idea what you mean. If I should let it, my 6 is a willing partner in going at extra-legal speeds and taking the turns and twists a bit hotter than might be prudent.
The reason stated was that Mazda reimburses the dealer for 3 rental within 90 days.
This was my fourth visit and hence "no-rental".
Spoke to the service advisor to the cashier to the service manager to the GM. All said "NO".
I called up Mazda customer service and they will file a complaint with the Dealer.
Who is right here? Does Mazda really refuse to reimburse the dealer for the rentals?
And post the name of the dealershp so the online community can totally ignore them for all future service/warranty needs!
Joe
I had the same problem. At 6,000 miles they told me it was operating normally. I just took it in at 9,000 and ask them to check it out. It is very loud when it runs and often will run 1 to 2 minutes after the car is shut off (almost sounds like the car is still running). It was so loud that people would ask me if there was something wrong with the car. The problem was the control unit for the fan was bad, now that they have replaced it, it is so quite! It's like driving a new car. I have had this car for over a year and the noise of the fan was very irritating. Hope this helps.
I have a question to all. Have you noticed that when you turn off all controls, AC is off and the automatic climate control is off it still seems the AC is running. I can feel cold air coming out of the vents and I can see condensation dripping from the condenser. Is this common? Is there a fix?
Other wise the car has been great so far. Damn I think I might go for a ride!!! ZOOM ZOOM
Have noticed the unpleasant odor and humidity coming through the vents when turning off the a/c. The burning oil odor is caused by the oil hitting the exhaust manifold which sits below the oil filter. When removing the oil filter some oil may hit the exhaust manifold and is not cleaned off, thus the odor. I, as well as many 6s owners, have experienced the same thing.
On my last dealer visit, I complained about my pulsating brakes and, at first, they said it was a maintenance issue and probably wasn't covered by the 4 year/48,000 mile bumper-to-bumber warranty. I said if it wasn't covered, don't even bother fixing it. They fixed it.
I read the posts comparing the Mazda6 to a FOCUS. There IS no comparison. After a few months of driving my 6, I drove my girlfriend's Focus. Scared me! Focus' handling is sloppy and unstable and acceleration is SLOOWWW but I forgot I was in a 4 cylinder.
I'm spoiled now - I used to buy GM products but they don't compare with what I have now.
When I told the new salesperson how disappointed I am that I'm going to have to wait more than 4 months for this car, he offered to do a search across the region for a car just like mine. No luck, of course.
I'm concerned that (a) they never placed my order, altho he said the car has already been built (so it's going to take 7+ weeks simply to deliver it here???); and (b) they won't abide by the deal I made since it was signed by a former employee and there's no manager signature on it. I know the 2005s cost $300 more. If the dealer doesn't abide by the deal, that means I don't have to either, right? And can get my $500 deposit back? What are the odds that they'll let me have this 2005 (if indeed there IS a 2005 on order) at the same deal? I'm very disappointed and not sure what to do now. I feel like I got royally jerked around.
Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
It appears your dealer has been less than helpful and somewhat inept. I would be talking to another dealer in your area. Call up and ask to speak with the Sales Manager and explain what happened. Maybe they can spec change a car they have on order to meet your specs. It is too late for a 2004, unless they can locate one. Also, the packages have changed for 2005...
you found the right car, just not the right dealer.
For what it's worth, my M6 was ordered in May, built in July and delivered to the dealer on the last day of July. My advice is go talk to the manager and get everything cleared up; I don't think your salesperson knows what he's talking about.
Good question.
First there is the very noisy exhaust. When car is started "cold" (car stayed overnite in the parking) the exhaust gets very noisy like if the pipe or muffler was pierced. After about 30 seconds the sound gets to a "okay" level, but it is very annoying.
Second and most importantly, there's the rough shifts. We have a couple of stop signs in a row around my house and I cannot believe it every time I try to accelerate after a stop. The transmission knocks and the car painfully starts to move. I've checked with the manual mode and the tranny stays in hi gear quite a bit after you start decelerating for the stop sign. Is it normal to be in 4 when moving at around 40 kmh (25 mph)????
I've tried to check for any recall on Mazda site using my VIN but I cannot "log in". I think there is a TCM update available but I don't know if my car is too "recent" for that update. Has anyone of you (with the same symptoms) found an "acceptable" solution to these problems???
Thanks!
If your car has a build date of 6/03 it is not too recent and my 6 cylinder with automatic is in 4th at 25mph. Try surfing web for info regarding TCM update. There is no recall, but a Mazda Repair Information (MRI) that addresses the shift shock issue that many owners have dealt with. Good luck!
While driving in a previously unknown and hilly section of the country one day I needed to pass several pieces of several pieces of farm equipment and a following truck. The car has plenty of power and it seemed like a long clear area ahead. So, out I go, pedal to the floor. Now I'm over 50 years old and have had lots of driving experience. This should have been a no-brainer. I'm also used to automatics that up shift when the engine reaches a certain rpm level or corresponding vacuum level. So, with the pedal fully depressed the transmission downshifts as it should. I'm am moving rapidly around the vehicles when two things happen. (1) a vehicle comes into view much closer than I had expected and moving quickly toward me, and (2) the engine reaches redline without up shifting and, hitting the rev limiter, coughs, spits and sputters - losing power at a critical time. I was able to brake and pull back in before becoming a hood ornament and took the vehicle to the dealer.
The dealer tells me that there is no malfunction. They have tested it, diagnosed it with their computerized tools and all of the rpm change levels are within spec. There is no issue. They have even contacted Mazda's central service organization. Yet, the problem is repeatable.
Either this is a critical design issue, or a malfunction. Writing Mazda direct gets me more defense and more driving instruction.
Am I way off base here? Should a transmission design allow the engine to lose power when it is most critical, or should it up shift to protect the engine while maintaining power and acceleration? Has anyone else reading this had that experience? I've posted in the sedan area and have had three respond with similar experiences.
Any advice on how to pursue? All I am after is Mazda to examine the design. If it's broke, fix it. If it isn't, fix my car which is obviously malfunctioning.
Now that the problem is known I can deal with it by patting the accelerator while passing, but being taken by suprise is a real shocker!
I bought my Mazda 6 last August (2003), and have had it in the shop over 8 times for this problem (35 days) during the past 12 months. Mine will suddenly downshift instead of upshift, or upshift instead of downshift. When it happens, I hear a loud "thud" and am thrown forward, feeling like I've just been rear-ended. But of course, none of the dealerships (and I've gone to 4 different ones) can replicate the problem, therefore there must not be one. They continue to re-flash the computer with "updates." I'm wondering if the computer isn't run off an old version of Microsoft that keeps "crashing."
Furthermore, I've already had the front rotors, the fan assembly, and the fuel assembly replaced - IN A 1-YEAR OLD CAR! In my research, it sounds like "shift-shock," however, my most recent service advisor is beginning to question the possibility of a faulty traction control kicking in at inappropriate times. Unfortunately, I'm looking into the Lemon Law. I love the car, but cannot get it to work the way it should.
Good luck.
I have also had this problem for going on a year now. I have had it in the shop at least 8 times for this problem alone (and I've had a few others, too). Mine will suddenly downshift instead of upshift, or upshift instead of downshift. When it occurs, I hear a loud "thud" and am thrown forward, feeling like I've just been rear-ended. The 4 dealerships I've taken the car to have checked for "shift-shock," but since they can't replicate the problem in the 2-3 miles they drive it, they tell me there isn't a problem. They have re-flashed the car at least 6 times now with recent updates, but it continues to do it.
I love the car, only wished it worked. I'm beginning to look into the Lemon Law.
Good luck on yours.
Another thing that I would like to mention is the Cabin Air Filter. After looking at websites and looking inside the car, I finally found it. Just in case anybody else is looking for it, the cabin filter is located behind the Glove box. The filter itself is flimsy. Maybe it was made that way for easy removal and installation. Trying to remove it requires you to twist and squeeze the filter because there is a bar that somewhat blocks the filter door.
Second, it's normal to be in 4th at down to 22-25 MPH. (Read your manual.)