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Comments
Since the Mazda Tech Line gave my service manager the brush off when he called in about the clutch ("if you can't duplicate the problem, then it must be normal operating issues"), I called MazdaUSA to talk with them about it myself.
They gave me the same line I have been hearing all along. Denial that there is a problem with other cars, and that if the problem cannot be duplicated consistently, they can't fix it.
How do I combat this attitude? The problem happens enough in the course of a day that I am gun shy about pulling into traffic, yet I can't duplicate it consistently.
I told MazdaUSA that I know for a fact that other people are getting clutch components replaced for the same issue. They "noted" that in my "file".
Very frustrating. I feel like I've got this great car, but I haven't been able to take advantage of it's full potential because of this.
BTW - All I have ever driven is clutches. I know how to drive a clutch well. My Mazda 626 has 150,000 miles on it and the clutch is still in fine condition.
Thanks for listening...
Leaving work in the light rain but serious humidity, I unlocked the car and again the pass indicator didn't flash. I jumped in and used the turn signal but this time it worked. WTF? Anyone else have this issue?
Thanks!
'04 6s
Mazda called my dealership today and told them that they have indeed been replacing the clutch plate with a new part in cars that have been experiencing the clutch chatter problem. I interpret the word "new" to mean a different part rather than simply replacing the old one with same part. The service manager said something about this being a "clutch counter measure".
I've got to give Mazda credit on this. They sent the part to the dealership today, and my car should be fixed next week.
I will let you all know how it turns out.
I ended up buying a Honda Accord 4 cyl. AT instead and have no regrets. I can tell you that there is absolutely no lag in accelerating the Accord which also has drive by wire. Mazda really should fix this problem which could also be caused by an automatic transmission that's poorly matched to the Mazda's 4 cylinder engine.
I think Mazdas are great cars but there really is (or was) a problem with initial acceleration......Richard
Also, the Mazda 6i needs a 5 speed automatic--the transmission is probably an old Ford design which isn't the worst thing in the world but it's clunky compared with the Accord's smooth-shifting 5 speed. Along those lines, I had a Ford once and that's enough!
Also, my Accord EX-L has 4 wheel disk brakes which are quite good and the handling and ride in the Accord are more like the Mazda than the Toyota Camry which I also tested and rejected because it felt too soft and mushy. The Accord was the best balanced car and that's why I bought it.
Still, I'll always like Mazdas after my experience with the Protegé........Richard
I have to agree that the Accord has better acceleration, but it also has a bigger engine that gets better mileage. The 6 beats the Accord hands down in handling and styling though. I own a 6i 5MT with sport package and has previously driven an Accord EX-L for several months. Both cars are good choices, but the 6 has better driving dynamics. I think the EX-L is actually cheaper than a full-loaded 6i, let alone the 6s.
It's hard to compare prices because Honda sells clearly defined models that are fully equipped rather than Mazda's option packages that were somewhat confusing.
My '04 Accord EX-L 4 cyl., AT, side curtain airbags (standard) cost me, at the start of that model year, $22,700 including transportation, but before tax, license, and $50 in doc and other fees. Current prices for 2004s seem to be about $1000 to $1500 less with so little time left in the 2004 model year.
The Accord EX-L is a fully equipped car with too many features to list here, but it can be compared to the Mazda 6i with whatever option packages apply.
Please note that even if the Accord costs more, its resale is higher and much of that extra cost will come back when the car is sold or traded. When I sold my excellent, '91 Mazda Protege, I got a decent price; however, similar Honda Civics were priced significantly higher by Kelly Blue Book and others. In my opinion, the '91 Mazda Protege was a much better car than the '91 Honda Civic--I test drove the Civic at the time. The 1991 Civic was in its last year and the Mazda was a much newer and better car, but people are willing to pay more for a used Honda.......Richard
It is, and maybe the solution to problems is to trade for an Accord
(OK, I know I shouldn't have done that--don't be too angry with me)
As for the oddness of Subaru people, Subaru purposely markets to certain lifestyles. Maybe the "odd" lifestyle is one of them.
This is not a comparison board, nor is it a place to assess the traits of owners of various makes/models. I'm sure those having problems with their 6 would appreciate it.
Thanks for your cooperation.
Were you experiencing any problems with your washer jets by any chance? What year is your 6s?
I went to use the windshield washers this morning and the pressure was extremely low. It was so low that the fluid barely hit the bottom of the glass. A humming sound was audible through the radio as well telling me that this might be a bad pump instead of just the bottle.
Anyone else seen this?
Maybe I'll try dropping a Viagra in the bottle...
Speaking of which, I'm due for my first oil change and am wondering if there are any PCM updates for my car. Is there any way to find out what the current versions are and verify if the dealer actually checks them?
I've also had some issues with very rough downshifts, especially when braking harder than normal, but sometimes out of the blue. Feels like the engine is throwing itself around in there. Anyone else experienced this?
I'm mostly happy with the car, but still getting used to an AT (after 12 years of driving MT).
Thanks in advance.
I had the door sash recall fixed 4/5 months ago and I just noticed all these white specs last month. Anyone think this is related to the recall or something completely different.
Replies would be appreciated.
Let me say I do love my 6 immensely, but let me honestly say there is one thing that I have noticed during aggresive driving that is quite annoying. I have the 6s, 3.0L, 5 speed AT. Try this: go around a corner in second gear - typical, right? If you are going around 20 mph, and want to downshift into first for some extra go - since we know the low end torque is marginal, at best - by the time the engine quickly hits redline and you are ready to shift into second, it refuses to do it!! I know there is not an automatic upshift when you hit redline like some SportShifts - which is great for enthusiasts. Upon checking the owners manual, there was a note that said something like "to protect the engine you can't downshift more than 2 gears at a time. Wait a few seconds and then make your third downshift." The engine computer seems to implementing this "safeguard" with the 2-1-2 shifts close to redline, however that is contrary to protecting the engine! You do get the extra kick you wanted, but the car continues to bounce off the rev limiter for a couple second before allowing you to upshift to second! You either wait, or lift off the gas and then shift into second, like a MT car. I thought this was a fluke, but it does this continually in that scenario, almost as if there's a computer bug that is exposed in that instance. Anyone else seen this??
Anyway, one last note for 6 owners out there. I also noticed the car didn't really accelerate well on the highway in gears 3-5. Dropping into thrid and flooring it around 70 mph didn't help matters much, because the tach needle would climb very slowly. Road & Track test numbers (Feb 2003) 0 to 100 mph test numbers confirm this - it goes from being 1 sec behind the Altima and Accord at 60mph to 6 seconds by 100. Almost as if the car was being stiffled for air. I live in South Florida, so the summer heat/humidity doesn't help at all. So I ordered a K&N air filter - they didn't stock them in Pep Boys, AutoZOne, and the like so I got it direct from K&N's website. Wow!, its like the car went from being asthmatic to having marathon-runner lungs! It accelerates strongly to redline now in every gear. I did let up after hitting 100 though....I STRONGLY recommend this modest($55) and simple do it yourself upgrade. I look for 3.5SE Altimas every chance I get now!!
Hot 6
Of course, the service dept. couldn't duplicate the rattle at low RPM or the brake noise on slow, tight turns.
I am so grateful to have found this board. Like someone said earlier - gotta love the internet!
Zoom, Zoom!
My employer had hired a contractor to clear the brush in the lot next to where everyone parked. They brought in one of those huge brush mowing rigs. Luckily, someone was outside at the time and observed that when they were mowing, they were too close to the cars at the back of the lot, and were throwing up thousands of tiny little pebbles which were blasting the cars like a mini sandstorm.
Everyone's car looked as you described. 100's of tiny little paint chips, all on one side of their car.
Could something like this have happened?
Still 0 problems and an infinite number of smiles with the car!
Take the car in for this update (takes a few minutes - depending on how busy the dealership is).First confirm with your dealership that they have the newest version of the software - many are released - perhaps 1 a month, if not more. If your dealer is clueless, or pretends to be, its time to find a service manager/dealer elsewhere a little more up with the times
Oil changes and filters - never trust the quick-lube places. If you can't do it yourself, take it to a trusted local mechanic. There are NO aftermarket filters for the cartridge filter system employed byt he 6i.
The 6s has numerous replacement filters available - corss-reference the car and available filter lists at your local auto parts store. Some aftermarket filters are better than the (quite nice) stock/Mazda/Motorcraft 6s filter. Try the K&N - it has a bolt for easy removal and access.
If you must take it to a quicky-lube place, buy and take along your own filter, and ensure they use 5W20 oil (not 5W30 or 10W30). 0W20 synthetic is also perfectly acceptable.
I have a pretty heavy foot so I would not be the best judge on gas mileage. I don't think it has improved. However, as I am coming out of a Chrysler 300M that got even worse gas mileage (again with the heavy foot combination), its better than that.
Did you notice the same 2-1-2 shift issue? Does anyone think that may be, or can be, improved with a software upgrade?
Hot 6