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Comments
1) when I turn the wheel I hear a clunking noise. This only happens when I'm at a low speed since it doesn't make the noise unless I turn the wheel one quarter turn either direction.
2) I've noticed an underlying scraping/ grinding noise while idling or at low speeds. I can't hear it at speed, but that could just be because it is drowned out by other noises.
These issues only started recently, once the weather got warmer and more humid. Does anyone have this/ these issues? If so, what was the fix? I'll be going to the dealership soon.
Mazda corporate has said their is a fix for it, and that if a dealership is unaware of it they should call the technical hotline. If your dealership says they called the hotline and were told there was no fix you should ask your service manager for the name of the person on the hotline and contact Mazda corporate. I will be taking my car in for this problem and another soon. Please let us know how your experience with your dealership goes, and (assuming they fix it) how well the work turns out.
The other noise is gone this AM, after filling up yesterday. Starting to wonder if the problem isn't due to bas gasoline. I filled up at a different station last time, way out in the sticks, and that's about when the problem started. Seemed to stop with the fillup, but time will tell.
Not only do the observations support this, but also discussions (and comments by experts) on the web's premiere oil and fluid websites, like Bob, the Oil Guy's.
Go with it - your car will live longer and healthier.
1. I start the car and it revs high (1750 rpms) and gradually over a few minutes decreases to (1000 rpms) and if leave sitting for several more mins., it drops to what is idle after running engine for hour or more (~750 rpms). Is this normal? cause my old car, never reved high like that for a few min before hitting idle. Now if that was all that happened, fine, but it also vibrates some (not violent but definatly noticable) when on its way down from the high rpms which has me concerned. Is this normal for a mazda 6s AT v6?
2. If the above does not happen, the engine when started cold, revs up, then drops, drops, drops, and the engine stalls, causing me to restart. Which im not sure if its a related problem to the first but since they both involve cold start rpm issues, just opposite extremes, I belive it does (correct me if im wrong).
If you need anymore info, please just ask.
Thanks,
John
If you dont mind me asking, how long does it take your car from a cold start to rev down to normal idle rpms? Mine seems to take a few minutes, to get to 1000 rpms and idle appears to be 750 rpms on my car. It takes another 5 min to get the last 250 rpms down.
Also can you feel your car vibrate when cold starting and then it idles down? its usually breif, but the fact that i can feel it concerns me.
Thanks,
John
Granted, most of the Mazda 6 UOAs I've seen so far have been from the colder, mid-atlantic area - but we've had a few very favorable UOAs from members driving their 6's in Texas and CA as well. All with Mobil's 0W20. Run a cycle of it and post your own UOA to add to the already large knowledge base of how the 6 and 3's engines perform under different driving, weather and fuel conditions, with different oils.
Regarding the stalling issue, you may need a PCM (car computer, in lay terms) update (like an Operating System Upgrade). Take it to your dealer. They may also check for pending codes that may show one of your MANY sensors that ensure things start up and continue to run smoothly may have failed - there's the EGR and PCV valves, the MAF sensor and the O2 sensor, to name a few.
There is a known PCM issue with older 6i's that was eliminiated with an update, there may be something similar for the s as well.
I should also mention that mazda is being awesome with regards to computer issues, because the 6 is the first vehicle (IIRC) in the Ford/Mazda stable using the new (not 'required until 2006/7) CAN-II system instead of the existing OBD and OBD-II systems/interfaces. It literally has thousands of configurable variables and sensors, and LOADS of programming and memory built in (at least that's my semi-layman's interpretation). There are bound to be a few hitches, including stuff like 90% of mechanics' scanners being unable to pull codes when you get a CHeck Engine Light (until they all buy new, soon to be mandatory, equipment), but I think its worth it as long as Mazda keeps us in the loop, and sends out frequent updates to the dealer, and the dealership service managers know to try an update based on the nature of the complaint. Teething issues for a very good (emissions, engine management and many other standpoints) new system.
Very good info in there. I am begining to see after spending a day looking around different sites, the rpm issue is normal (very releaving to know that). But Since my car vibrates during this, is that vibration considered normal? I'll admit its not violent or anything like that but you can feel it. Or possibly is this a new car issue (ie i am under 700 miles).
As far as part 2, will take it in to a local dealer (will need to pick one out since i bought the car in another town). Maybe the update will fix this.
Thanks!
Liven up your evening and join your fellow enthusiasts every Tuesday from 6-7pm PT/9-10pm ET for our Mazda Mania Chat!
The chat room opens 15 minutes before the scheduled chat time, so come early and get a good seat! Hope to see YOU there on Tuesday!
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PS-This replacement is under way within a week that I called Mazda USA and told them that I was now concerned about my safety!!?? I can't say if that's related to the ordering of the new parts, but it does make me wonder.
My theory is it's because that's one of the things that gets the NHTSA moving, and may lead to a recall. Nobody likes to do a safety-related recall because of the bad press it generates. They'd much rather call it something else, like "customer-satisfaction campaign" or some other euphemistic term. Many TSBs in the past few years should have been recalls IMO (I think anything related to the power systems, brakes, suspension, safety equipment etc. should be recalls). I think the NHTSA has been a bit more lax (or more stretched) of late.
Respectfully yours,
Quinn Adkins.
And even downshifting into 3rd or 4th in the high 60s or 70s (resp.) does not cause a mileage hit - at least not the kind inherent in the V6.
Not to mention the 6i 'seems' to have better balance at the limit, being 200 lbs lighter up front, and this opinion is backed by numerous V6 owners I know.
The V6 sounds incredible, however, and does have a thrilling amount of greater mid and high-end power. But if you're asking whetehr the 6i is adequate - most owners (of a 5 speed at least) will respond with an emphatic YES!
This, however, is a much debated issue (with a few pseudo-fixes that are easy, but in some people's opinions - merely placebos!) It still is a poor excuse - this noticeable hesitation (search for throttle lag, elsewhere!)
However, rest assured that you will
a. Notice incredible improvements as the engine/clutch etc wear in (this engine, and the 4, wear in VERY well, with continuously improving gas mileage, responsiveness and top end!)
b. Find yourself compensating automatically (bad pun) over time
A lot of people have also noticed improvements in their ability to compensate (or ignore) this by switching to synthetic fluids (Mobil 1 0W20 SuperSyn for oil, and Redline MT 90 for the tranny are the most popular). Not to mention this will mean you will start to enjoy synthetic's other numerous advantages over dino oil!
The A/C merely exacerbates it, and is probably not the cause of the bogging itself. If you don't notice it with the A/C on, it'll only get better, and soon enough will be less noticeable even with it on!
Another thing to do is to ensure that your car's PCM has the latest software update from Mazda. They perennially tweak parameters and eliminate problems, and any dealer/service manager worth his salt should be able to take care of this quite easily and quickly for you.
In order to get to the clutch apparently they have to remove the entire front sub-frame. An effect of this can be that your front alignment will be off afterwards (as mine is), so be sure you have them check your alignment after the clutch repair before you pick up your car.
On a side note, my service manger said that if this repair hadn't been under warranty it would have cost upwards of $1,000. He's probably exaggerating a little, but not much. No wonder Mazda isn't issuing a TSB on this.
How long did it take for your parts to come in? Mine were ordered last Wednesday-clutch, flywheel and cover.
Also-any idea if these were updated parts or exact duplicates of the original components?
Thanks in advance for the info.
Technically the wheels track straight, but my steering wheel is wayyy off to the left, so they need to realign with the steering wheel in the right position.
I don't know if they are the same parts as stock, or totally different. It's my impression that they are different than the stock clutch parts, but I can't be sure. Wouldn't surprise me if they were the same.
Mazda Mania
Liven up your evening and join your fellow enthusiasts every Tuesday from 6-7pm PT/9-10pm ET for our Mazda Mania Chat!
The chat room opens 15 minutes before the scheduled chat time, so come early and get a good seat! Hope to see YOU there on Tuesday!
Mazda Mania Chat Room
PF Flyer
Host
Pickups & News & Views Message Boards
One question to the board: the people who have the clutch problems, how long have you been driving a manual transmission car and what are your driving conditions like?
The problem that these cars are having with their clutch's is not caused by driver error or abuse. There is simply a defect in the parts or manufacture. My clutch, flywheel, etc. was just replaced even though the dealer could NOT duplicate the problem and the car was nearly two thousand miles past the limit of the clutch warranty (12,000 miles). What does that tell you? Mazda knows there's a problem there's just no reason for them to publicize it as long it remains a small percentage of vehicles. Or until it causes someone to have trouble accelerating into or out of traffic and gets broadsided by a semi and killed. Then it will become a recall. hopefully those with the problem clutches will not ignore the symptoms.
My car goes in tomorrow (Tuesday) for clutch and flywheel. I was told that it would take 6-8 hours.
I just want it to be fixed.
As far as the question of how long I've been driving a MT-First car I ever learned to drive was a Plymouth Valiant-3 speed on the column-half a dozed motorcycles including dirt bikes as well as street bikes, 69 GTO, AMC Pacer, Chev. Spectrum, all MT-a total of 27 years of driving with a clutch, and I've never ever had problems like this. My GTO would do what feels like the same thing-but the marks on the roadway made it very clear that this was wheel hop. I can see where one would think from the described problems that this could be a case of "operator error", but I can assure you that it isn't.
I called the service mngr today and asked him if the replacement was the same as OEM, or has it been changed at all to stop the problem. I think he answered me honestly when he told me-I really don't know. Time will tell.
2) I meant no disrespect to drivers out there >BUT< there are people who have been driving sticks for a very long time and they are just driving with bad habits. Pubdef, like you my clutches last a really long time. I have a clutch the is 75K (with atleast 5 years and 70+ track days) and it still looks like new. Matter of fact I am installing it into my brother's car this weekend. Based on what you are saying, as long as Mazda knows that owners are having this problem then I will have my dealer replace the clutch, clutch cover and flywheel soon after I pick up the car.
3) Last question: up to what build date Mazda6 does this affect?
Thanks!
The only time that I could ever replicate the judder is after a good run on the interstate while taking my daughter back to college, getting off at one certain exit and making a certain turn. I've always been able to duplicate it 100% at that point.
When I get the time I'll make that trip just to check it out, but so far so good. It's taking some time to relearn how to drive it the way it should be driven. It's amazing how I can tell that I've been taking it easy on it just to not have the studder. I cringe when I am at the point where it used to happen, but now there is just a smooth takeoff. Only time will tell though.
Oh, and a PS on the list of my cars with MT-my very first-a Pontiac Ventura-three speed on the floor-loved that car!!
CL
CL
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/recalls/recallsearch.c- - fm
There are documented complaints for both, but only 3 of them on the 2004 model. You can search here:
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/complain/complaintsear- - ch.cfm
TSBs are here:
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb/results.cfm
CL
Why keep driving in the hope that sometime during break in it will go away? It might not go away, and all that time you would be foregoing daily pleasure in driving your car. This is likely no big deal; why have your feelings about your new car colored by a two-bit rattle or hum?
Anyone have any experience with this? I thought it was a simple lube issue but apparently not. It does seem less pronounced in warmer, more humid weather.
Thanks.
Just bought a 6 wagon and on the trip back home we were playing with all the switches, of course. Well, from what we can tell the seat heaters are temperamental beasts. They'd work fine sometimes and other times we got nothing. It was an 800 mile trip home, so we had plenty of times to try them out, but we couldn't really find a pattern. I noticed one of the car mags (maybe Car and Driver?) had one editor who couldn't feel anything out of the seat heaters while others felt them fine. So is this a common problem? And has anybody had it fixed?