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Now, 6 months and 2 oil changes later, I heard the same clicking. I checked my oil level and sure enough I was low... oil levels were below minimum. I had to add 2 qts to get it just past minimum. Again, got my oil changed and everything is fine.
Has anyone else experienced anything like this where your oil level gets to low levels 3000 - 5000 miles after an oil change? Now I don't have any leaks... external ones, anyway. Could oil be leaking somewhere I wouldn't see it?
I drive daily in stop-go traffic on the way to/from work going about 70 miles 5 days a week and am a failry aggressive driver, is that contributing? Any thoughts would be appreciated.
The Duratec V6 is VERY sensitive to oil levels in the motor, and there have been a fair amount of cases where entire engines had to be replaced due to low oil levels. I can't remember the exact specifics, but it has to do with the bearings between the rod and the crank...
I'd make it a habit to check the oil once per week. There is no oil level light on the motor, but there is a light for oil pressure. Chances are if that light goes on, your engine is toast.
As for the oil leaking... I'd have a trusted mechanic look over the motor, including the seals, to try and determine what's going on. I've got an '04 6S and I drive 50-60 miles/day aggressively, without any significant oil loss. Chances are there's a leak...
Hope this helps.
Also, If one would want to buy a Acura EL (not offered here) in Canada, what would be the potential pitfalls?
1) the sqeek I heard from the front brakes was from a loose clip. the clip had worn a groove in the rotor. Dealer turned the rotors and replaced the brakes for free. YES!
2) I complained that I heard weird wizzing noises from the front dash. The dealer found I had a bad bearing in the pretentioner. They replaced the pretentioner and the surpentine belt for free. YES!!
3) I complained that I had no zoom zoom zoom and a lot of throttle lag. The dealer gave the throttle a Software update and it ZOOMS better than new. Huge impact.
I celebrated by spending $200 on 35% window tint all around. Looks great!
On the service side vw was great........of course nothing major was ever wrong with the car so what can I say.
I'm probably crazy for considering buying one, but I still really like the M6. There are attractive prices on 2005 models that have been sitting on dealer lots for awhile.
Does anyone have an opinion?
Point is, you're taking a risk no matter what kind of car you buy, whether it's a Toyota or Pontiac. If you want a fun-to-drive sedan that looks sexy to boot, get the 6! You won't regret it!
Again, I love the 6 wagon........The handling,styling and engine performance are right there with some of the higher priced Audi's and Volvos.
For the 2005 report, the J.D. Power team compiled responses from more than 62,000 buyers and lessees of new 2005 model year vehicles. The survey respondents were asked to rate their vehicles after the first three months of use.
The exhaustive questionnaire touches on 135 different attributes, spread across nine categories. They include ride quality, handling, braking, engine and transmission performance, plus a vast array of typical problem areas on new vehicles.
The annual Initial Quality Survey also establishes an overall score in Problems Per 100 Vehicles (or PP100, its well-established yardstick) for the various nameplates, and it hands out awards for overall plant quality worldwide.
NAMEPLATE RANKINGS
Lexus - 81 PP100
Jaguar - 88 PP100
BMW - 95 PP100
Buick - 100 PP100
Cadillac - 104 PP100
Mercedes-Benz - 104 PP100
Toyota - 105 PP100
Audi - 106 PP100
Infiniti - 109 PP100
Hummer - 110 PP100
Hyundai - 110 PP100
Honda - 112 PP100
GMC - 113 PP100
Lincoln - 113 PP100
Acura - 116 PP100
Industry Average: 118 PP100
Jeep - 120 PP100
Mercury - 120 PP100
Nissan - 120 PP100
Chrysler - 121 PP100
Chevrolet - 127 PP100
Ford - 127 PP100
Mitsubishi - 129 PP100
Pontiac - 129 PP100
Dodge - 130 PP100
Mini - 130 PP100
Scion - 134 PP100
Saab - 136 PP100
Saturn - 136 PP100
Subaru - 138 PP100
Kia - 140 PP100
Volvo - 140 PP100
Porsche - 147 PP100
Volkswagen - 147 PP100
Land Rover - 149 PP100
Mazda - 149 PP100
Suzuki - 151 PP100
Source: J.D. Power and Associates 2005 Initial Quality Study
Thanks-Mark
Keeping it simple may not work in the auto industry. Most consumers seem to prefer a well-equipped car at a discount rate rather than a basic car at a decent price. Call it human nature, greed or a great deal but many of us want everything for nothing. In defence of the auto industry, many products with ever increasing amounts of incredible components are outstanding for the price; an Echo hatchback is an excellent vehicle in its category; I happen to prefer another category and so dream of the Mazdaspeed3.
I thought I read somewhere that the poor ratings for the RX-8 were due to complaints of engine oil consumption. Kind of like how the Hummers were thrown to the bottom last year due to complaints of poor fuel mileage.
Anyone else remember this?
Loren
My M6 just passed 10K miles without a single problem, so I guess I got one that bucks the CR ratings (so far). The car isn't perfect; none are- I still am lukewarm about the shift performance of the auto 5 spd and don't like the greasy brake dust, although the brakes stop fine. But overall, a very good car for the money and still a hoot to drive!
Good points. Often a few posters on a website can create a false or incomplete impression of a vehicle. This impression then influences others who may not consult other sources. Let's aim for a balanced discussion and not only the gripes of an individual. This is not to advocate censorship but to argue for balance. That's why we need Consumer Reports, JD Powers and other tools.
Loren
Here's something that may help you ...
http://www.caranddriver.com/article.asp?section_id=30&article_id=9569
Note the source of the data in this survey of vehicle quality. Then note what car is in a 3-way tie for best small car, as voted by the OWNERS of the car.
Meade
I now have a large dog and am thinking about getting a wagon. Thoughts re: the 6 wagon, anyone? :confuse:
'17 Chevy Volt Premiere
'17 Chevy Volt Premiere
I live in Minnesota, where it snows heavily, I have driven the Mazda6 wagon on snowy days and its fine. It drove better than the car it replaced, 95 camry.
Had initial minor problems with the car in the first month, but the dealer service is excellent and they took care of it. I have put more than 7000 miles on it, love driving the car and handling is great.
I would certainly buy another Mazda from the same dealer. I am very happy with their service. I have owned Nissan and Toyota's before, but cannot stand their crappy service.
I bought a 2004 Mazda6 wagon in Aug 04 and have been very pleased. I've put almost 15K miles on it. Have driven it in a few inches of snow but not on ice. It handled well. My only complaint is that the A/C fan doesn't seem to work properly anymore, but I'll have that fixed at the 15K checkup. It's a wonderful road trip car, very comfortable. And a good dog car - we have a 100-pounder and an 85-pounder - tho I don't take advantage of the dual position cargo net like I thought I would. I generally put one dog in the back seat and the other in the cargo area.
The Mazda is a dream to drive and is esp. fun on winding mountain roads. It hugs the road like no other car I've had, much better than my '96 Honda Accords (we had both a wagon and a sedan). The sound system is super, the engine is quiet (unless I punch it), controls are nicely placed. Some have complained about road noise from the tires, and they do whine on certain roads, but not enough to bother me.
What I really love about this car, tho, is how good looking it is. I read somewhere that the Mazda designers were trying to make it look like a big cat about to pounce, and I think they got it right. In the 10 months I've had this car, traveling across the state and as far as 800 miles away, I can count on one hand the number of Mazda6 wagons I've seen on the road. Don't understand it, but it's nice not to see myself coming and going as I did in my Honda.
Thank you for any responses and the quicker the better.
I have just purchased a 6i mtx, and was reading the owner's manual.
In the spec's section, the spec'd antifreeze is given only with a specification number.
What is the correct antifreeze in plain English?
I purchased a brand new Mazda 6(2005) in February, and the car's engine has stalled twice on me when I am at a stop light. I have brought the car back to the dealership both times and they say that they can't diagnose a "intermittent" problem without being able to replicate it. They have made no fixes to my car, and I can't get them to really take this seriously. I have also tried Mazda corporate, and they are backing up the dealership's response.
Here is the scenario for both instances, early in the morning when driving to work I'll stop at a stop light. Once the light turns green, I'll press the gas and the engine will have turned off. So I feel like I am driving in neutral, no acceleration. I never lose electrical power, and the car starts right up again without any problems.
My concern is that I live in a metropolitan area, and came very close to getting rear-ended the last time this happened. Has anyone experienced similar problems?? Mazda claims that no other 2005 - Mazda 6 has logged similar problems..I can't be the only one??
Faulty TBs are known with 6 owners, but Mazda doesn't want to admit they have a problem, considering I've heard they're on their THIRD manufacturer of TBs.
Have the dealer check it out, along with the connections and wiring. It could be a simple as a loose connection, all the way to a faulty TB.
This is what happens with electronic throttles, there are bound to be bugs...
Regarding your earlier comment:
Faulty TBs are known with 6 owners, but Mazda doesn't want to admit they have a problem, considering I've heard they're on their THIRD manufacturer of TBs.
If possible, would you please elaborate on this (source of info, etc). The only major complaint I have about my M6 S is the vague clutch action and imprecise throttle at low speeds (example: trying to launch the car from standstill on a hill). I've stalled the car numerous times on an incline, and I suspect my M6 has a mis-adjusted or faulty throttle-body unit. I like my Mazda dealer a lot, and if I'm going to complain about this I'd like more info beforehand. -Thanks, appreciate it!
I really wish I could be more help. One more thing, are you sure it's not just a symptom of the "dynamic" clutch?
Guess I'll monitor my car's clutch/throttle symptoms and visit the dealer if it gets worse. Not sure what a 'dynamic' clutch is, but I do know my M6 S has been suffering from an intermittent 'irritating' clutch :mad: (and a touchy throttle with a mind of it's own - see Issue 2 below).
Issue 1: the clutch pedal's take-up or engagement point does not seem to be static, but seems to vary from shift to shift.
Issue 2: I can have my right foot on the accelerator at a constant pressure while dis-engaging the clutch from a standstill, and the engine will surge without any input from my right foot (particularly in reverse, or when starting from stop on an incline). That, to me, indicates a problem with the throttle body.
I'd appreciate any insight from other M6 S (V6) owners with the manual tranny and similar symptoms and/or complaints, thanks. -Lefthandman
Not so in my case. When I took it in for the 5000 mile checkup they replaced the TB under warranty without my even knowing I had a problem-- I just mentioned the CEL was on.
'17 Chevy Volt Premiere
That, my friend, is the "dynamic" clutch that you, me and just about every other Mazda 6 owner with a manual has to deal with. It's a common occurrence with just about every manual-shifting 6 owner that I've met or chatted online with. Not only does it vary from gear to gear, sometimes the take-up varies in the SAME gear, depending on heat and humidity. I'm so used to it by now, I don't even notice it anymore. My wife does, but she doesn't drive it nearly as much as I do.
Issue 2: I can have my right foot on the accelerator at a constant pressure while disengaging the clutch from a standstill, and the engine will surge without any input from my right foot (particularly in reverse, or when starting from stop on an incline). That, to me, indicates a problem with the throttle body.
Again, you're not the only one with that either. Some people think the "surge" is an emissions-related thing, others think it's simply the electronic throttle having a slight "lag" in it sometimes. Chances are, the throttle body isn't the problem, unless the stall/stutter triggers a CEL.
Is the surge only 500-750 RPM, or does it surge higher?
Given this day and age, these things shouldn't occur, but it doesn't bother me for two reasons:
1. Driving (or learning to drive) stick shift on this car will make you look like a pro driving any other stick shifter sans an 18-wheeler, and
2. It's been a year and 15K miles, and I'm still too busy grinning from ear to ear to even CARE about the quibbles.
I figure all cars have SOMETHING that acts up, but I love driving my 6 too much to even think about trading up...
Yeah, you're right. If the CEL is triggered, the car keeps a log of the problem code, which is read by the techs at the dealer.
It's funny how other problems usually "cannot be duplicated" or magically disappear when the car enters the dealer lot...
To answer your question, the throttle surge on my vehicle only occurs at or just above idle (500-750 rpm). I agree with you about driving the M6 (a blast), but I guess the poor throttle and clutch operation bother me because I like to shift - and opted for the manual for that reason. Ironically, the throttle and clutch in my '87 VW operated much better than my M6, even with a couple hundred thousand miles on it. That's an area where the Germans (and most European cars), IMO (in my opinion), still outshine the Japanese and Americans - manual transmission and clutch operation...but just my opinion
My last Mazda, a 626, actually exhibited similar clutch/throttle behavior, although more subtly than my M6 wagon, perhaps due to the smaller engine and the mechanical throttle?
Issue 1: I agree with mz6greyghost that the clutch inconsistency may be caused by heat/moisture. I've actually observed similar behavior in other cars before, so it's not just Mazda. I don't know about your clutch, but mine definitely acts more fussy during the first few shifts in the morning than it does when it's all warmed up.
Issue 2: If I load my engine too much too quickly at low RPM, it briefly surges up a few hundred RPM as you describe. Furthermore, I've noticed that if I don't do anything about it quickly enough, the engine speed will actually bounce up and down until I have the clutch all out, which gets really interesting because the car will sometimes start bucking a bit. I suppose it's better than just stalling, though. It's easy to remedy with either a bit less clutch or more throttle when the surging starts. I've found that it's most likely to happen in the morning when the clutch/tranny/engine aren't warmed up. My 626 did not have an electronic throttle and did the same exact thing, so I believe it could be the ECM (ECU, PCM, whatever... pick 'yer favorite acronym) that's responsible. Perhaps it's a method to cut down on stalling, or an emissions thing as mz6greyghost suggests?
I too have learned to live with the clutch/throttle quirkiness as I'm usually having too much fun with the car to care all that much, and it really doesn't happen most of the time anyway (usually just when I'm tired and not as tuned into the car's behavior).
You're not the only one that thinks the Germans are better at manual gearboxes/clutches either, but we'd have to pay a price premium for that German engineering now, wouldn't we? Not only that, but you might be trading off the clutch quirkiness in the Mazda for nasty electrical gremlins or some such thing in the German car!
The shift point is right at the tippy top of the pedal travel.
The dealer says the shift point (free play) is not adjustable on the Mazda 6 as it is a hydrolic clutch - sounds strange. He also says the clutch doesn't slip.
How do I get the clutch to stop slipping before it wears out? Shouldn't this be a warranty issue?
The car - with a new clutch - should be back today.
The question remains, "Is the Mazda6 clutch free-play adjustable?