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Mazda6 Maintenance and Repair



  • cop414cop414 Posts: 68
    I'm is the same "club" with the clutch judder. Keep me posted with any info. Also see my posts #'s 925, 926, 960, 1003.
    This is quite frustrating. I can never duplicate this at the dealer, but as I have posted before, it happens at times when I let the clutch out, resulting in what feels like front wheel hop.
    There seems to be no rhyme or reason to it at all. I did get in writing from the dealer that Mazda would cover the clutch for 75K since I have been reporting a problem. If you didn't already I would think you should call Mazda and at least make them aware of the problem. Hopefully a fix will be on the way soon if they get enough complaints. You can email me if you get any info.
  • chronobchronob Posts: 22
    Can do, cop414. My dealer couldn't replicate it either. Maybe I should have him stay over at my house so he can feel the shudder when I pull out of my driveway each morning.

    I emailed Mazda corporate today about this problem, so if they get back to me I'll post it here. I'm also waiting to hear back on the steering column vibration problem, for anyone who has that one, too. They told me a solution has been devised, but they didn't get back to me when I asked if it was being issued as a technical service bulletin. They just said to go to my dealer about it. That would be the same dealer that couldn't detect this problem, either.
  • moose54moose54 Posts: 20
    First of all your dealership is using the wrong viscosity of oil (10W-30), it should be 5W-20. Mazda recommends oil change intervals of 5,000 or 7,500 miles depending on type of driving conditions, not 3,000 miles. You shouldn't need a tune-up every 15,000 miles nor a transmission fluid change. Glow plugs do not pertain to gasoline engines, only diesel engines. To find the proper maintenance intervals refer to the owner's manual.
  • microrepairmicrorepair Eastern MassachusettsPosts: 508
    Does Mazda really recommend 5W-20? I personally would not use it if I lived in So. California; that's the oil to use in the northern states where it gets cold.. I live in Mass. and have always used 10W30 in all my cars with no problems whatsoever. Except for a little slow cranking when the temp gets down to +5 degrees F. or lower.. Not the kind of temps you'll see in Irvine, CA.
  • moose54moose54 Posts: 20
    I understand where you are coming from. The owner's manual states 5W-20 as the recommended oil and shows a temperature range chart that goes up to 120 degrees for that viscosity. The oil-filler cap also shows 5W-20.
  • microrepairmicrorepair Eastern MassachusettsPosts: 508
    specifies 5W20 I would use it in the winter up North. But if I lived in SoCal or AZ or Florida, etc. I would use nothing thinner than 10Wxx. But being a mechanical engineer, I want as much oil sticking to the bearing surfaces as possible. Just one of those quirks us engineers are famous for..
  • chronobchronob Posts: 22
    Good news on both these issues. Mazda corporate told me:
    "In regard to the steering wheel column concern, there isn't a Technical
    Service Bulletin (TSB) at this time. However, the dealers have received
    a repair procedure.

    In regard to the clutch chatter concern, there is a fix for this, and
    the dealers can contact out technical hotline for further assistance if
    necessary. A TSB may be coming, but this can be taken care of
    regardless of a TSB issued or not."

    So, let your dealer know, and get your problems fixed.
  • ericzoomericzoom Posts: 213
    I would like to know if anyone has any info. on using synthetic oil for the car? I used mobil 1 for many years in my old car and I never had any engine problems.
  • Does anyone experience a strange noise when you turn into a parking spot? It sounds like it is coming from the brakes or front end. Planning to bring this problem back to the dealer again. This will make 10 problems total. I need some Yellow paint for this Lemon!
    Did anyone get this problem fixed?
  • cop414cop414 Posts: 68
    chronob-Can you be a bit more specific on your information. I was told the same thing several weeks ago and when I called the 800 number they said that they have no idea what I was talking about. Any kind of service bulletin numbers or who you spoke to about the problem. I'm happy that there is a fix, but Mazda has yet to admit it to me. Please let us know how and where you got this info so that when I call Mazda again I don't hang up up the phone with another headache. Thanks for your help and info.
  • accord7accord7 Posts: 96
    I've read a number of complaints about the cloth seats fraying, coming apart or something of that sort. Does anyone have any photos of this problem? I'd like to determine if this is a real serious issue that will only get worse, or if it can be treated with a stiff brush occasionally and be fine. Thanks in advance for any replies.
  • chronobchronob Posts: 22
    The woman's name and title are Lisa Lasky,
    Specialist, Customer Assistance E-Business. We corresponded via e-mail. Her exact words to me on the clutch problem were "In regard to the clutch chatter concern, there is a fix for this, and the dealers can contact out technical hotline for further assistance if necessary. A TSB may be coming, but this can be taken care of
    regardless of a TSB issued or not." I've read elsewhere that this probably involves replacing the clutch disc and flywheel, if not the entire clutch assembly. That's all the info I have on it.

    I suggest you call your dealership's service manager and repeat Lisa's exact words to him. If he still won't accomodate you, you ought to call Mazda corporate back and explain the situation.
  • I have had my 6 for almost 7 months and I have had enough of all these problems. I;m thinking of using the Lemon Law on this unit. Did anyone have success going this route?
    Please advise...
  • Mazdafool: Find an attorney- is a good start. They will take care of everything and you will have your money back in less than 6 weeks, so you can buy a real car. In the worst case you will keep your lemon and they will give you couple grand for the inconvenience, pain and suffering caused for a defective automobile.
  • buggywhipbuggywhip Posts: 188
    Yes, I concur--10W30 oil is more than adequate for the Mazda6 in any climate. I've always used it in my cars with splendid results. It's lots easier to find than the 5W-grades. 10W40 oil, however, should be outlawed--it's worthless.
  • zorzor Posts: 24

    I'm glad to hear that you have had good luck with 10W30 over the years, but if Mazda does specify 5W20 for the 6, it has probably been engineered for that viscosity. Using another viscosity may be at one's own peril.

    That being said, after a 2,968 mile break-in period on my favorite car of 20 years, I flushed my engine with synthetic oil and used Mobile 1 15W50 (at my own risk) for the next 283,854 miles. My recommended viscosity was 10W40 (not available to the public as a synthetic when I started on Mobil 1) and the change interval was 10,000 miles. Synthetic oil seemed a good idea, given that long change interval, something indescribable about the feel of the engine, and my need for high revving to launch onto the highway from short ramps or from stops during construction. I also used Slick 50 engine treatment to reduce wear at start-up. The engine is still strong, quiet, efficient, peppy, and clean.

    I took a risk, and it paid off. One can't always expect that to happen. I suspect that Mazda has reasons for the 5W20 specification. That's what I will use if I buy the 6.

  • bigdadi118bigdadi118 Posts: 1,207
    Here is what I saw from Mazda's FAQ webpage ...

    Does Mazda recommend the use of synthetic oil?

    No. Mazda does not recommend the use of synthetic oil. To determine which oil should be used for your specific model, consult your Owner's Manual.
  • prionaceprionace Posts: 8
    Ok, walked out to my car (1 week old) this morning after not driving it yesterday. We'd been through snowy, rainy, salty (what they put on the roads.. well, a salt substitute) weather. I was surprised to see a rust like looking coating on the disc brakes. Is this the brake dust everyone's talking about or was the car not rustproofed properly on the brakes? It did seem to stick for a second when I put it in reverse, before starting to roll back...

    Hopefully all it is is brake dust and I can have ease of mind, but it doesn't sound like what most people have been talking about...
  • kphunk23kphunk23 Posts: 3
    I just test drove the Mazda6s hatchback automatic yesterday and I absolutely feel in love with it. I'm still not 100% sure on buying the car yet. I want to do some more homework on it and I want to ask you all for your opinion and advice on buying this car. Should I get or not? Are there significant problems with the 2004 models. I have read about some problems with the 2003 and i know they have been fixed in the 2004 but are there any more problems i should be aware before i proceed any farther in purchasing this car? Thanks

    PS - If i do get it i will get the following:

    Lapis blue Mazda6s Auto Hatchback
    Bose package
    Luxury pacakge
    safety package
  • mazda6smazda6s Posts: 1,901
    Brake discs will rust if the car sits for any period of time without driving. It's normal, so don't worry about it.
  • prionaceprionace Posts: 8
    Danke mazda6s

    Never having been able to so easily see the brakes before on one of my cars it was a shock.

    The Mazda6 is a car that's showing me how little I know about cars in that it's the first one I've owned that makes me want to learn. ;)
  • mazda6smazda6s Posts: 1,901
    "The Mazda6 is a car that's showing me how little I know about cars in that it's the first one I've owned that makes me want to learn."

    Yes, I think that's part of Mazda's evil plot. ;)
  • cop414cop414 Posts: 68
    All with clutch shudder-My redfire 6i is back at the dealer. I suggest all with the clutch judder/shudder to review posts # 1003, 1009, 1010, 1015, 1018 and 1020. I'm hoping for a total clutch/flywheel replacement. Srvc. mngr told me that he has called Mazda for the fix, but as of yesterday they have not gotten back to him. Somehow I feel like a guinea pig here. Oh, well, as long as it gets fixed I really don't care. I'll let all know soon, hopefully.
  • arockwelarockwel Posts: 33
    If you are having problems with brake squeal, apparently Mazda hasn't heard of this problem before. At least based on the e-mail I just got back. Read this part of the e-mail:

    "...Currently, I have not heard of any concerns with the brakes on the MAZDA6. However, I will document your comments for our corporate record and they will be forwarded to the Product Planning Department for their information....

    Heather Drake
    Specialist, Customer Assistance E-Business... "

    So, please send Heather an e-mail if you're having this problem. Send it to:
  • mazda6smazda6s Posts: 1,901
    Sometimes the info from those people is unreliable.

    Haven't we seen incorrect info from Heather Drake in the past?
  • bunk1968bunk1968 Posts: 119
    I have been looking at many different cars to purchase and recently I thought I would take a look at a Mazda6 after seeing great things written about it in one of the Mazda Protege5 chat lines and in Edmunds reviews, BUT WHAT IS ALL THIS ABOUT at this board?? RUST IN DOORS AND ON AND ON ABOUT PROBLEMS, IS THIS CAR AN UNSAFE BET?? Does anyone out there have a non biased inteligent viewpoint for me? I found a 2003 Mazda6 with 19000 miles on it for $16500 and I did not think it was a bad deal? It has ground effects, heated seats, moonroof, spoiler, 6cd changer,... everything but leather, BUT NONE OF THIS MATTERS IF THESE CARS HAVE BUGS TO BE WORKED OUT?? Is it not worth taking a chance on a 2003 Mazda 6?? Is a 2004 a better bet? I just can't afford a 2004 right now. Maybe I should just stick with a rough riding Protege5 or a 2001 Prelude that I found?
  • bunk1968bunk1968 Posts: 119
    As I had mentioned on another Mazda6 board, I have found a 2003 with 19000 miles on it for $16500, but in the add it says that the owner has used only synthetic oil. Is this something to worry about in buying this used car??
  • chronobchronob Posts: 22
    I broke one of my own rules by purchasing a car in its first model year, and that has meant dealing with first year recalls and build issues. I love driving this car, but it does have some problems. My own personal opinion - pass on a 2003 model. Wait until you can afford a 2004
  • livaudaislivaudais Posts: 55
    Trying to determine a car's reliability from these boards is like trying to determine the health of a populace by checking its emergency rooms. Check any car's Problems board, and you'd never buy the car. Does it matter if I tell you that my '03 6s has been almost perfect? It shouldn't. Check some independent references, like CR. And expect that any first year model is going to have some bugs to be worked out.

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