Mazda6 Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • slickdogslickdog Member Posts: 225
    Many hydraulic clutches do have a mechanism for adjusting the master cylinder pushrod to change the amount of free play in the pedal, I'm not sure about the Mazda6. I would encourage the dealer to share details of their diagnosis with you, in the event that this happens again.
  • ebeth2721ebeth2721 Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same kind of problems with my 6 plus the fan was running to loud and the dealership told me that it was normal. After telling them about this forum they agreed to replace it and it is quiet now. My check engine light has came on about 6 times now, I have 23,000 miles on my car and it is a 2003. The dealership is now saying that they think it is a fuel problem. I wanted to try to pursue the lemon law but i wanted to find out if it depends on how many miles your car has on it and how old it is.
  • dv8erdv8er Member Posts: 8
    At last, I have finally resolved my back-end noise.

    A month ago, instead of making the previous "whirring" noise, it instead made more of a high pitched whine/ air siren noise. I took it to the dealership the following day (it would not make the noise then), and after a short discussion with the tech, they agreed to look at the back-end again. They replaced the fuel pump, and it has not made the noise since.

    FYI- most dealerships are NOT frequently stocking this item, so expect either some time for repair, or for the dealership to have it FedEx'd in.
  • lefthandmanlefthandman Member Posts: 47
    Anyone else dealing with a squeaky clutch pedal? This squeak in my car occurs each time I engage or disengage the clutch. It's currently not loud enough to hear over music, the climate control fan or when I'm driving with the windows open, but definitely getting louder. I asked the dealer to investigate and a technician supposedly lubricated it, but to no avail. I also crawled under the dash with some WD-40 but no luck that route either. It's getting pretty irritating hearing a 'squeak ... squeak' during each gear shift. Would appreciate anyone's advice, thanks.
  • inc4phinc4ph Member Posts: 1
    My Mazda6 diesel, april 2003, 145500 Km, began to stall around 90 000 Km !
    In the beginning, it happens once a mouth maybe. Then twice. Lately and finally today it stalls all the time. Today I got enough, and went on line to see if other had the same problem. And it seems to bee.
    The dealer has twice run a computer test and it shows nothing. They say it´s
    the main pump (2000 $), but other specialists says it not. I have been told it could be "the low pressure diesel pump"(700 $), "the low pressure diesel indicator"(1800 $), "Engine computer" (3400 $). If I were sure I would pay one of them! In the garage they say, that if it´s not the part they change that fails, the can´t take it back!!
    The car has been serviced every 20 000 km up till 100 000 at Mazda, but in a way, I have controlled. Just oil change with filter here, and then brakes there, and so on. Not the "Mazda" way with wind screen washer, controlled lights, oiling the doors and so on. Now they claim, I have´nt followed the Mazda program and no
    warranty helps.
    Now i´ve read, it could be a TB problem. I don´t know really what to do now.
  • slickdogslickdog Member Posts: 225
    I've noticed this summer that when I depress or release my clutch pedal I hear a slight creaking sound, much like the noise an old rusty storm door spring makes when expanding/contracting. It seems to come more from the engine compartment as it's most noticeable when I'm going slowly next to a wall like at a fast food drive-thru window. Not sure if this is similar to what you're hearing or not.
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Member Posts: 1,230
    *raises his hand slowly*

    Yeah, I've got the creaky "storm door spring" clutch too! Not sure if it's the same problem as LHM, but dog, your description nailed it!

    Haven't worried about it too much. Probably because it's still under warranty, and I guess I'm just attributing it to the heat/humidity that summer brings.

    But I could be wrong...
  • rochma09rochma09 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2004 Mazda6 with tan interior cloth. Recently it rained, and after it stopped raining I opened up my back passenger door and some water dripped on the seats, leaving a water stain. I tried removing it with some cloth cleaner & warm water, but it just made the water stains larger (from the cloth). Any suggestions or answers on how to fix this? Thank You!
  • mazda6iguymazda6iguy Member Posts: 365
    I am thinking of getting Sirius Sattelite radio, probably a JVC portable for my 2003 Mazda 6i. If any of you out there had one installed, how does it look? I am concerned about keeping the car looking nice and a clean install.
  • brianm4brianm4 Member Posts: 33
    2003 Mazda 6s, 28,000 miles.
    I have a similar but different problem with my cooling fan. The fan will run for 2-3 minutes after I turn the car off. At first it was during hot days, but now it is all the time. The temperature gage does not indicate an increased temp.
    This happened about 10,000 miles ago, I had the dealer take a look when I had one of the recalls repaired and the dealer told me "they adjusted the sensor". Well it's back, and I have another recall notice (about 10 months old) that needs to be taken care of.
  • brianm4brianm4 Member Posts: 33
    2003 6s, 28,000 miles

    After just 28k miles, my tires seem to have a lot of wear, aprox. 1/8" tread left. I have rotated the tires twice (10k and 20k miles).

    I am now starting to hear a little squeak from the breaks.

    Anyone else replaced breaks at less then 30k miles?
  • brianm4brianm4 Member Posts: 33
    I have a 2003 6s, 28,000 miles.
    My tires a starting to look worn, less then 1/8" tred.
    I have not replaced them, but keeping an eye on them.
  • bullseyejoebullseyejoe Member Posts: 7
    I think you should get XM instead !

    I love my XM radio !!!
  • mazda6iguymazda6iguy Member Posts: 365
    I am considering Sirius because Howard Stern is supposed to go over to Sirius next year.
  • slickdogslickdog Member Posts: 225
    Yep, I'm waiting to see if mine stops creaking when it gets cool and dry outside again in the fall. When it's really hot/humid I can actually feel something like a slight vibration (hard to describe) in the pedal when it creaks, but nothing severe enough to worry about in my opinion. Sometimes these sorts of things disappear over time anyway.
  • slickdogslickdog Member Posts: 225
    My wagon does this too. If I open any of the doors during or shortly after a significant rainfall, there is water sitting inside the small channel in the top of the door weatherstripping, so a bit of it drips onto my seats. I haven't noticed water stains yet, but I have the grey cloth so perhaps it's less noticeable. Either that or my pants have been soaking enough of it up that it isn't staining! The other thing I have learned is to open the doors slowly during/after it has rained, because if I fling them open too quickly, the water in that weatherstrip groove flies off the top rear corner of the door and onto my clothing. Of course, that can make for an embarrassing situation if the water hits you in the wrong place! :surprise:
  • ct6sct6s Member Posts: 3
    Hi - I have a 2005 6s with a spoiler and I can't find a bike rack that will fit over it. I've tried a few different brands but nothing works. Any suggestions?
  • cdnp5cdnp5 Member Posts: 163
    Get a trailer hitch or a roof mounted model. You don't want a trunk mounted model as they "can" damage your car. You may spend a little more money up front but you won't be thinking that after you have many scratches and/or dents in the trunk of your car.
  • mazda6smazda6s Member Posts: 1,901
    Did you check out the Saris Bones?
  • ronnustworonnustwo Member Posts: 1
    My Mazda6 seems to have brake problems after only 15k. It appears that the front passenger side caliper is frozen, as the rotor is so rusty that it is rough to the touch. It seems as if the pads aren't even being squeezed on the rotor, and it squeaks like crazy. I have an appt. to bring it in next week - anyone else with a possible frozen caliper?
  • rochma09rochma09 Member Posts: 2
    I hear ya on the water spots in the wrong spots! Thank you for the tip. :D
  • mazda6smazda6s Member Posts: 1,901
    It's kind of an unusual problem. Just be happy you're still under warranty and it you don't have an out-of-warranty BMW 325 with a frozen caliper. :surprise:
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    My Mazda6 seems to have brake problems after only 15k. It appears that the front passenger side caliper is frozen, as the rotor is so rusty that it is rough to the touch. It seems as if the pads aren't even being squeezed on the rotor, and it squeaks like crazy.

    Mazda's Proteges also had issues with brake calipers; the dealer recommended a lubrication of the brakes. I suspect this is not uncommon with many other cars using disc brakes. I have had all four of my brakes on my Protege5 cleaned and lubricated (approx. U$70) and plan to do this regularly as a preventative measure.
  • ct6sct6s Member Posts: 3
    I tried the Saris Bones but it skims the spoiler and I don't want to risk it with the weight of bikes. I'll look into a hitch - Thanks!
  • mazda6smazda6s Member Posts: 1,901
    Hidden Hitch for Mazda6:
    Hidden Hitch Part 60988
  • gcroadiegcroadie Member Posts: 1
    I got my 2004 Mazda 6 in March, and I love it, but since I've gotten (even since the day I drove it) it jerks when it goes into 2nd gear, but ONLY 2nd gear...the saleman said that's how it drives, but I don't know if he was just trying to sell it to me or just didn't notice the jerk. I've noticed that if I'm goin 20mph or higher before it hits 2nd gear is doesn't do that. I'm not sure if it's my transmission since it doesn't always jerk, and it's only at 2nd gear when does anyway. If anyone has any suggestion please write back! Thanks! :confuse:
  • msubulldogtxmsubulldogtx Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Mazda 6 that I got in September. Since then the car has jerked violently on three or four ocassions when I was at a stop...the latest being at a stoplight. The jerk feels as though one is rear-ended and it was so bad that my neck literally hurt. I've never had whiplash but I can imagine what it felt like. I also had a mark from the seatbelt on me. When it happened I looked in the rear view mirror immediately. Nobody was there. I wasn't rear ended. Yes I know this sounds very strange. Here's where it gets stranger. When I got home (about a mile away) I got out and looked at the car and the two rear quarterpanels under each taillight had popped loose. It looked like they were going to fall out if you pulled on them.

    I can explain the quarterpanels. They just look like they're pushed in so that was easy enough to push back in. But I cannot explain the incredible rear-ending feel like I was hit from behind. Each time this happens it gets worse.

    I took it to Mazda today they said "surprisingly" oh you got rear ended. I had to explain it to them what happened and I thought they were going to call the men in white shirts for me. They couldn't reproduce the problem. It's not reproducable and I don't know what conditions this happens (so far at random). Does anyone have any theories? I like the car just fine but this has me really worried it is unsafe.

    Thank you.
  • deedee13deedee13 Member Posts: 8
    My 2003 Mazda 6s has been doing that (harsh shift from 1-2) since I bought it (now have 28,000+ miles). And only when it was fully warmed up (after 20 miles); it never did it when cold. I complained to the advisor at the Mazda dealer and he said there is an TCM update that corrects it. They did the update and it IS corrected. However, a little of the zoom-zoom is gone and sometimes it hesitates for a second before shifting. Like another recent poster, mine sometimes shifted so violently from 1-2 that I first thought I was being rear-ended (shift shock). I learned to baby it into 2nd gear so it wouldn't do it anymore but I couldn't leave it that way forever. Go get the update. You'll be glad you did.
  • drmandrman Member Posts: 2
    Do you have a wagon? I'm having a heck of a time finding a rear rack for my wagon due to the spoiler. Every one I've seen, the straps want to go over the spoiler, which scares me. I'd hate to have to spend the extra $$ for a roof rack because we won't use it much but it's starting to look like we have no choice.
  • petermkpetermk Member Posts: 16
    Hi! I just bought a 2005 Mazda6 and I have the following question. When I put the key in and turn it on, the check engine light comes on, then it disappears when I start the engine. Is that normal or my car has some kinda problem? I read in the manual that a car definitely has a problem when that light is on while driving, but it says nothing about the light being on when I turn the ignition key on.

    Thanks
  • mazda6smazda6s Member Posts: 1,901
    How about a hitch rack?
  • ericzoomericzoom Member Posts: 213
    Yes that is normal,as long as the light goes out right after startup. It's just part of the diagnostics. :)
  • dogodogo Member Posts: 1
    Strange since the ADAC (the German Automobile Association), being the largest Automobile Association in Europe, found out that in the whole year 2004 the Mazda 6 had the least problems of all cars: http://www.adac.de/Auto_Motorrad/pannen_und_maengel/pannenstatistik_2004/mittelklasse/defa- ult.asp?ComponentID=113328&SourcePageID=113507%230
    (sorry, it's in German). I myself own a (new) Mazda 6 2.3 Active since sept. 2002 and am very satisfied with it. I find it a very reliable car with enough power under the hood, however I hoped Mazda would tune up the 2005 Mazda 6 2.3 with some extra HP: they didn't . During the first year my airconditioning broke completely but was repaired under guarantee. These things can happen with any car. Not necessary to mention the things that broke down in cars much more expensive from family and friends. Besides that: no problems at all.
  • 10chad200610chad2006 Member Posts: 6
    had car for less then 24hours,ac busted-feon(or what every is in ac now)all over the place.needs new ac vaporizer-they have to take 2doors off and the whole dash.that makes my new car, not new.it will take 5 or 6days till i get my 1day old car back!not happy with mazda at all!
  • drmandrman Member Posts: 2
    Yes, I should have mentioned I'm considering a hitch mount as well. Actually, now that's where I'm leaning. I'd have to get a trailer hitch installed first -- any suggestions?
  • mazda6smazda6s Member Posts: 1,901
    I installation doesn't look too diffcult for a DYI job. I like the hitch products from Curt Mfg:
    Curt Mfg.
    Or Hidden Hitch:
    Hidden Hitch
    I guess you have to find your own installer if you don't want to DYI.
  • petermkpetermk Member Posts: 16
    I bought my Mazda6 from Koeppel Mazda (Queens, NY) on Saturday and brought it back on Monday morning to have my keys programmed. They told me it would take like an hour or so, but I had to go to work and they told me I would be able to pick up my car in the evening. I returned in the evening and it appeared that they didn't do anything at all. So, my question is... can only the dealer where I bought the car program my car keys or it can be done at any other authorized Mazda dealer?
    Thanks
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Member Posts: 1,230
    Any other dealer will do fine. All they need is an original key.

    I believe that we can program the keys ourselves, instead of going to the dealer. I'll have to dig for the instructions, but I'll let you know if I find anything...
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Member Posts: 1,230
    Ahh, found it!

    You need 2 original keys, though, so if you only have one, head to the dealer.

    If you do have two working keys, and need to program a third, this should work.

    Programming Instructions:

    1. Using key 1, turn the ignition to ON position and observe illumination of the security light.
    2. After the security light turns off (about 3 secs), then turn the key to the LOCK position within 4 secs and remove it.
    3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 with key 2.
    4. Repeat steps 1 and 2 with key 3 (key to be programmed)
    5. If the security light stops blinking after 3 secs after being on the ON position; it works.

    I haven't attempted it myself, but the instructions are from a reputable source. Besides, it's probably a good thing to know anyway, especially if you're prone to losing keys, like I am! :)

    Good luck.
  • petermkpetermk Member Posts: 16
    Hmmmm.... I think I should have said that I needed to have my remote controls programmed.
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Member Posts: 1,230
    Oops, my bad, but I've got the instructions for that too!

    If your remote is the following:
    Visteon Model 41805
    FCC ID KPU41805

    Step 1: Open drivers door and leave open.

    Step 2: Lock and unlock the driver’s door using the power door lock switch on the door.

    Step 3: Insert key into the ignition.

    Step 4: Turn key to on position and return to off position. (IMPORTANT - use ON position NOT ACC position). Do this 3 times within 10 seconds. Leave key in the ignition.

    Step 5: Open and close the driver’s door 3 times. (Door should be left open after this step).

    Step 6: ECU should respond by locking and unlocking the doors.

    Step 7: Press any button on remote #1 twice. ECU responds by locking and unlocking the car doors.

    Step 8: Press any button on remote #2 (etc.) twice. Each time the ECU will respond by locking & unlocking the doors.

    Step 9: Remove the key from the ignition and the ECU will respond a final time with a series of door locks and unlocks. You're done!

    Good Luck.
  • petermkpetermk Member Posts: 16
    Interesting....

    The guy in the service department told me that this procedure would take about 1 hour, as he had to download some kind of program.
  • audia8qaudia8q Member Posts: 3,138
    instead of opening and closing the door (step#5) you can just push the plunger on the door sill three times. It's easier than swinging the door.
  • petermkpetermk Member Posts: 16
    I tried it and was able to program the remotes myself. Thanks a lot!
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Member Posts: 1,230
    Glad I could help....

    Enjoy your 6! A year and 15K miles later, I still have a smile on my face! :shades:
  • mitchinpamitchinpa Member Posts: 40
    Does anyone know how to turn off the annoying seat belt reminder chime on the Mazda 6? Owners manual says it can be done by the dealership. Nothing worse than making a 2 minute trip to the store and having to fight with a seat belt, or listening to that chime every 60 seconds. Thanks in advance!
  • gussguss Member Posts: 1,167
    buckle up ! If you are in PA it's the law. It also may save your life.

    I know its a 2 minute trip, but how long does an accident take ?

    I am not the preachey type , but buckling a seat belt takes a second , max.
  • mitchinpamitchinpa Member Posts: 40
    I know it's the law guss, but it's still my choice to use them or not. Whether I am breaking a law or not, that's my choice, and I can and will deal with any consequences. I do use them for normal driving, but for short trips, on neighborhood streets, it's more of an inconvenience to me. Anyone else with a solution to the annoying chime?
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Member Posts: 1,230
    Only one...

    Take it to the dealer.

    There are no fuses to pull or wires to cut for this one.
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    Thanks guss. Driving is a privilege not a right.
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