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A month ago, instead of making the previous "whirring" noise, it instead made more of a high pitched whine/ air siren noise. I took it to the dealership the following day (it would not make the noise then), and after a short discussion with the tech, they agreed to look at the back-end again. They replaced the fuel pump, and it has not made the noise since.
FYI- most dealerships are NOT frequently stocking this item, so expect either some time for repair, or for the dealership to have it FedEx'd in.
In the beginning, it happens once a mouth maybe. Then twice. Lately and finally today it stalls all the time. Today I got enough, and went on line to see if other had the same problem. And it seems to bee.
The dealer has twice run a computer test and it shows nothing. They say it´s
the main pump (2000 $), but other specialists says it not. I have been told it could be "the low pressure diesel pump"(700 $), "the low pressure diesel indicator"(1800 $), "Engine computer" (3400 $). If I were sure I would pay one of them! In the garage they say, that if it´s not the part they change that fails, the can´t take it back!!
The car has been serviced every 20 000 km up till 100 000 at Mazda, but in a way, I have controlled. Just oil change with filter here, and then brakes there, and so on. Not the "Mazda" way with wind screen washer, controlled lights, oiling the doors and so on. Now they claim, I have´nt followed the Mazda program and no
warranty helps.
Now i´ve read, it could be a TB problem. I don´t know really what to do now.
Yeah, I've got the creaky "storm door spring" clutch too! Not sure if it's the same problem as LHM, but dog, your description nailed it!
Haven't worried about it too much. Probably because it's still under warranty, and I guess I'm just attributing it to the heat/humidity that summer brings.
But I could be wrong...
I have a similar but different problem with my cooling fan. The fan will run for 2-3 minutes after I turn the car off. At first it was during hot days, but now it is all the time. The temperature gage does not indicate an increased temp.
This happened about 10,000 miles ago, I had the dealer take a look when I had one of the recalls repaired and the dealer told me "they adjusted the sensor". Well it's back, and I have another recall notice (about 10 months old) that needs to be taken care of.
After just 28k miles, my tires seem to have a lot of wear, aprox. 1/8" tread left. I have rotated the tires twice (10k and 20k miles).
I am now starting to hear a little squeak from the breaks.
Anyone else replaced breaks at less then 30k miles?
My tires a starting to look worn, less then 1/8" tred.
I have not replaced them, but keeping an eye on them.
I love my XM radio !!!
Mazda's Proteges also had issues with brake calipers; the dealer recommended a lubrication of the brakes. I suspect this is not uncommon with many other cars using disc brakes. I have had all four of my brakes on my Protege5 cleaned and lubricated (approx. U$70) and plan to do this regularly as a preventative measure.
Hidden Hitch Part 60988
I can explain the quarterpanels. They just look like they're pushed in so that was easy enough to push back in. But I cannot explain the incredible rear-ending feel like I was hit from behind. Each time this happens it gets worse.
I took it to Mazda today they said "surprisingly" oh you got rear ended. I had to explain it to them what happened and I thought they were going to call the men in white shirts for me. They couldn't reproduce the problem. It's not reproducable and I don't know what conditions this happens (so far at random). Does anyone have any theories? I like the car just fine but this has me really worried it is unsafe.
Thank you.
Thanks
(sorry, it's in German). I myself own a (new) Mazda 6 2.3 Active since sept. 2002 and am very satisfied with it. I find it a very reliable car with enough power under the hood, however I hoped Mazda would tune up the 2005 Mazda 6 2.3 with some extra HP: they didn't . During the first year my airconditioning broke completely but was repaired under guarantee. These things can happen with any car. Not necessary to mention the things that broke down in cars much more expensive from family and friends. Besides that: no problems at all.
Curt Mfg.
Or Hidden Hitch:
Hidden Hitch
I guess you have to find your own installer if you don't want to DYI.
Thanks
I believe that we can program the keys ourselves, instead of going to the dealer. I'll have to dig for the instructions, but I'll let you know if I find anything...
You need 2 original keys, though, so if you only have one, head to the dealer.
If you do have two working keys, and need to program a third, this should work.
Programming Instructions:
1. Using key 1, turn the ignition to ON position and observe illumination of the security light.
2. After the security light turns off (about 3 secs), then turn the key to the LOCK position within 4 secs and remove it.
3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 with key 2.
4. Repeat steps 1 and 2 with key 3 (key to be programmed)
5. If the security light stops blinking after 3 secs after being on the ON position; it works.
I haven't attempted it myself, but the instructions are from a reputable source. Besides, it's probably a good thing to know anyway, especially if you're prone to losing keys, like I am!
Good luck.
If your remote is the following:
Visteon Model 41805
FCC ID KPU41805
Step 1: Open drivers door and leave open.
Step 2: Lock and unlock the driver’s door using the power door lock switch on the door.
Step 3: Insert key into the ignition.
Step 4: Turn key to on position and return to off position. (IMPORTANT - use ON position NOT ACC position). Do this 3 times within 10 seconds. Leave key in the ignition.
Step 5: Open and close the driver’s door 3 times. (Door should be left open after this step).
Step 6: ECU should respond by locking and unlocking the doors.
Step 7: Press any button on remote #1 twice. ECU responds by locking and unlocking the car doors.
Step 8: Press any button on remote #2 (etc.) twice. Each time the ECU will respond by locking & unlocking the doors.
Step 9: Remove the key from the ignition and the ECU will respond a final time with a series of door locks and unlocks. You're done!
Good Luck.
The guy in the service department told me that this procedure would take about 1 hour, as he had to download some kind of program.
Enjoy your 6! A year and 15K miles later, I still have a smile on my face! :shades:
I know its a 2 minute trip, but how long does an accident take ?
I am not the preachey type , but buckling a seat belt takes a second , max.
Take it to the dealer.
There are no fuses to pull or wires to cut for this one.