New Toyota Corolla 2015 vs CPO Toyota Corolla 2011-2013?
I am on the market for my first car, and I am an anti new car person, but all of my analysis points me to the fact that getting a new Toyota Corolla is better. Please look at my analysis and tell me if I have forgotten to account for something.
Basically, my absolute requirements are Electronic Stability Control (ESC) which limits me to cars that are relatively new, circa 2010 or later. I also absolutely need cruise control as I regularly drive long distances (>200 miles), so I cannot take the base L model. My preferred requirements will be a backup camera.
I have been comparing New vs CPO Toyota Corolla:
New
- Truecar.com price around my area is about $18,000. Is this inclusive of all fees, registration and taxes?
- The LE models come with backup camera as standard for the 2015 models.
- The fuel efficiency is much better at 29/38 for LE or 30/42 for LE Eco, and the LE Eco is also about $18,000 according to Truecar.
CPO
- The CPO cars range from 2011 to 2013 models and have a listed price on cars.com from $12,000-14,000. Is this inclusive of all fees, registration and taxes?
- Mileage is about 20-50k miles
- The models before 2013 have terrible fuel efficiency at 26/34.
Currently there is about a $4k price difference ($18k vs $14k) between New vs CPO.
With the increased fuel efficiency of the LE Eco 2015 model, assuming I drive the car for 12,000 miles over a 10 year period, and with an average gas price of $3.0-4.0/gal, I save $2000-2666 on gas. That closes the price difference to $2k.
Then, for a CPO car, I have to get a mechanic to check it out, I have to anticipate costs of fixing up the car, and also installing an aftermarket backup camera, because models prior to 2014 do not have backup camera. That might cost another $1k conservatively.
The last thing I am unsure of is if Truecar.com prices are all inclusive, and whether or not I need to add more to the cars.com price. Of course, one could argue that the cars.com price can be negotiated down. How do I adjust these prices to reflect the total price paid? Will it make a difference in the end?
So, we are down to a $1k difference between New vs CPO. Since I have to add another $2k for fuel costs (over 10 years) for the CPO car, and another $1k for fixing it up.
Can anyone explain to me why would they take the CPO option when the overall cost of ownership over a 10-year period is only $1000?
Basically, my absolute requirements are Electronic Stability Control (ESC) which limits me to cars that are relatively new, circa 2010 or later. I also absolutely need cruise control as I regularly drive long distances (>200 miles), so I cannot take the base L model. My preferred requirements will be a backup camera.
I have been comparing New vs CPO Toyota Corolla:
New
- Truecar.com price around my area is about $18,000. Is this inclusive of all fees, registration and taxes?
- The LE models come with backup camera as standard for the 2015 models.
- The fuel efficiency is much better at 29/38 for LE or 30/42 for LE Eco, and the LE Eco is also about $18,000 according to Truecar.
CPO
- The CPO cars range from 2011 to 2013 models and have a listed price on cars.com from $12,000-14,000. Is this inclusive of all fees, registration and taxes?
- Mileage is about 20-50k miles
- The models before 2013 have terrible fuel efficiency at 26/34.
Currently there is about a $4k price difference ($18k vs $14k) between New vs CPO.
With the increased fuel efficiency of the LE Eco 2015 model, assuming I drive the car for 12,000 miles over a 10 year period, and with an average gas price of $3.0-4.0/gal, I save $2000-2666 on gas. That closes the price difference to $2k.
Then, for a CPO car, I have to get a mechanic to check it out, I have to anticipate costs of fixing up the car, and also installing an aftermarket backup camera, because models prior to 2014 do not have backup camera. That might cost another $1k conservatively.
The last thing I am unsure of is if Truecar.com prices are all inclusive, and whether or not I need to add more to the cars.com price. Of course, one could argue that the cars.com price can be negotiated down. How do I adjust these prices to reflect the total price paid? Will it make a difference in the end?
So, we are down to a $1k difference between New vs CPO. Since I have to add another $2k for fuel costs (over 10 years) for the CPO car, and another $1k for fixing it up.
Can anyone explain to me why would they take the CPO option when the overall cost of ownership over a 10-year period is only $1000?
0
Comments
Nope. I think new is the way to go, especially with a Corolla.
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2024 Kia Sportage Hybrid SX Prestige
Nope. I think new is the way to go, especially with a Corolla.
Completely agree - it is the new way.