By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
also, anyone see arctic blue metallic on the 3 series yet?
Good point about the nuts and bolts. I thought that might be the case, but hadn't checked yet. Sounds as though I will need to purchase tire changing tools for my BMW - a torque wrench and perhaps also a jack (I think my Honda's jack may be designed to fit over protruding jacking points on my Honda). I suppose that I could find what I need at my local auto parts store, or does my BMW require something special?
While I have never seen or used a torque wrench before, I believe that it is for purpose of tightening the lug bolts to the BMW recommended specification for the new 3. Does anyone know what that # is? Will a cheap torque wrench do the trick or are they too inaccurate? In a quick check, I found some in the $30 range and some in the $200+ range. I assume that the $30 variety would be for do it yourselfers, while the $200+ variety would be for professionals, but I'm just guessing.
The biggest problem I have is with hesitation while the transmission figures out what gear to be in after slowing down or stopping. A few times now the car has simply sat still when I've given it the gas and then took off when it finally engaged a gear.
Keeping the transmission in sport mode alleviates most of the trouble, but I don't particular care to drive with the engine constantly turning 2700 or more rpm and always winding the engine up to 4500 when accelerating.
When in regular drive mode the transmission does a quick shift at about 2000 rpm when accelerating from a stand still. The effect is for the car stop accelerating before you even get through and intersection. This is very annoying. It doesn't short shift the other gears like this.
For now I use sport mode anytime I slow down or stop and then once the car gets moving I switch it back into regular drive mode.
The manual shifting is useless. Today I was turning left in front of traffic. I manually downshifted to 1st and then hit the gas to go. The car didn't move. The rpm's ran up to about 3500 and then the transmission finally engaged a gear.
It think it was a mistake to put a 6-speed automatic on this car. I think it would have been better served by a wider ration 5-speed. In 5-speed the transmission only has to downshift 1 or 2 gears when transition from slowing down or stopping. A close ratio 6-speed has to downshift 2 to 3 gears in the same situation exacerbating the problem.
I also own a 2006 Jetta TDI with a 6-speed DSG automatic. It does not suffer from the same issues.
I use my automatic in manual mode all the time. So far I find it very pleasant. You said that you were in 1st gear and hit the gas and car didn’t move? And it moved only at about 3500 rpms? I am not sure if it is how it is supposed to be. But from my experience (I never drove real manual before) when using manual mode of my automatic (325i) I start with 1st, hit gas, it starting to move (slowly, not like a rabbit:)) and at about 2000 upshift to 2nd gear. And than I upshift all subsequent gears at about 2800 – 3200 rpms. So far I find it to be the smoothest shift from gear to gear.
I tried recently G35 and I must admit it is much faster. When you hit the gas (also automatic trans in manual mode) it just jumps out instantaneously. Maybe this is what you experience in your Jetta 6-speed DSG?
If anyone knows the “correct” way of shifting bmw automatic in manual mode –please advice.
mike
If anyone knows the “correct” way of shifting bmw automatic in manual mode –please advice."
Mike, it's got nothing to do with the shifting. The G35 is simply a much faster car than the 325 off the line. It's got a lot more horsepower and torque. Equipped with automatic transmissions, the G35 does 0 to 60 in about 6 seconds flat, while the 325iA does it in the mid-7s. That makes for a big difference in feel when you jump on it from a standstill.
Totally agree with you. G35 has much more juice. I had it for a day or so as a loaner while my 325i was in the shop for software update. Despite that G35 felt much faster, I still could not count minutes and seconds until I finally got back to my baby –325i
Anyway – any advice on the proper way of using manual mode of the automatic trans?
mike
I wonder why a BMW dealer gave you a G35, a strong competitor to the 3-Series, as a loaner car. What's the background for that? Supreme confidence? Arrogance? Stupidity?
You'll have to look to others for advice about using the manual mode of the auto trans. But as I understand it, it doesn't matter so much what you do, because the manual mode does not have true manual functionality. If ever you mess up, the computer will override your mistakes. So basically, you can do no wrong and you can do no damage. I haven't played around with mine yet. I'm nervous to do so during the break-in period, lest the car get broken in with some whacky inputs from a person who never had a manual car as a daily driver. The last time I drove a stick was about 25 years ago - a pickup truck for a delivery job. Every once in a while there was no automatic and I had to drive a manual (even if I barely knew how). I looked forward to it and dreaded it at the same time. Fun but scary, especially on hills in stop and go traffic. I got nervous when cars got too close behind me.
The reason that I got g35 loaner from a bmw dealership is easy. The dealership do not have a fleet of loaners for it’s customers. What the owner decided to do is to have Enterprise Rentals to be located right in his building and have an agreement with Enterprise that he will pay fixed rate for all the cars rented to his customer. So dealership owner is not in control what Enterprise is renting out and frankly he does not even care as long as his customers are provided with a car. So, this is how it happened.
DL
Go to your local auto parts store.
I bought torgue wrench + jack + extention for socket.
Believe I paid apprx. $70.00 for everything.
My torgue wrench is odd numbers so I torqued @ 90lbs.
I changed over my 4 snows last week, took me 40 mins.
Thanks for your info. I like one-stop shopping.
And thanks for the encouragement - just a 40 minute job.
David D
I have the arctic metallic and think the color is fantastic. Everyone who has seen my car loves the color. It's a hard color to describe because on cloudy days it looks like a blue/gray and on sunny days it looks like a light blue and certain times of the day it may take on a light sea green appearance. By the way it looks like it will hide the dirt well but I cannot comment on that since I have washed my car twice in the two weeks since I picked it up.
Cheers,
chillnyc
The E90 manual transmission has a hill holder that engages the brakes for up to a couple of seconds until you bring the clutch up to the engagement point. Also, the clutch has a delay valve that helps prevent clutch wear if you give it too many revs before the clutch is engaged. You might find the E90 with a manual enjoyable or at least tolerable.
Good to know. Now if only I could find someone with a manual E90 who would give me a refresher course and then let me try it out.
However, there are some forums out there with people who have retrofitted xenon headlights. Replacing the whole headlight assemblies, ballasts, etc... Something you'd have to do yourself. Not sure of the success rate, but I've heard of it being done.
I am a life long stick driver. The only 2 vehicles I have purchased for myself with automatic are a Nissan Murano and the 325i.
The Murano has a CVT which is fabulous. No delay, the vehicle goes when you give it gas. A CVT has a little trouble from a standing start, but in all other situations it works wonderfully.
With a stick you have a hard connection between the tires and the engine. With a traditional automatic you have an automatic clutch, torque converter, etc.
When you take your foot off the gas in an automatic the rpms will drop. When you reapply the gas you have to wait for the transmission to re-engage. No rpm drop or wait with a stick.
The Jetta has DSG automatic which is a manual transmission with a computer controlled clutch. Actually 2 clutches. It behaves a lot like a manual transmission.
My wife who is a life long automatic driver is happy with the BMW transmission and hates the Jetta transmission.
The automatic in the 325i was compromise purchase so my wife would want to drive it. I didn't realize what a mistake I made.
If I could get a manual transmission 325i I would. Unfortunately we can't afford to take the loss on the car and also they are quite hard to find.
I can't trust the 325i to go when I want it to. I am more confident pulling out in traffic in the 100hp Jetta than in the 215hp 325i.
The 325i has a lot of potential, but I'd have to rank it pretty much near the bottom of the cars I have had as it is.
dealer started me out with the "we will work with u a little, but not many xis out there, so no great deals".
any idea what I can expect relative to MSRP. i am buying, not leasing..
thanks
Ummm, as a point of fact, whether you pay cash, finance via a traditional loan or lease a car, the price is the price is the price. First you negotiate the purchase price of the car (for BMWs a good target is $1,000-$1,500 above invoice, --to hell with the MSRP--), then you negotiate the financing after that. If you are being told otherwise, find a different dealership.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Basically, it is an automatic and it was mistake for me to get one. If I could've gotten a stick I would have. I've always wanted a 3-series, but this experience has soured me on BMW's. Unfortunately there really aren't any other choices except the G35 and it gets bad gas mileage.
We've made the decision today to get rid of it ASAP. Any suggestions for a good web site to sell a BMW on?
Maybe someone else can suggest a good website you could use to sell your BMW. I have no experience with that.
You have no idea how sorry I am and how much I wanted the 325i. That is part of the problem. I really wanted this car and I can't stand it because it could be a really good car.
There just isn't anything else out there I want.
You could always sell the Automatic and get a 325i manual.
That is the exact opposite of me...I want everything.
My wife says I’m always looking for the next best thing...I try not to read too much into that.
Based on the experience of myself and everyone I know who has ever owned a VW, the following are words to live by:
"If only everything in life were as reliable as a VW, you'd never get on a plane again."
If you like your jetta, maybe an a3/a4 2.0T. Nice torquey engine.
I hope that I don't get in trouble for mentioning the other site. :confuse:
This is the same dealer who tried to charge us $337 to install the mud flaps and grocery gripper that were part of the deal.
I'm not ruling out a 325i stick, but I'm not too keen my experience with BMW in general.
I like the Jetta for what is, but it is not a car I want.
We looked at the A4 and like it a lot, but it ends up costing the same as a 3-series and is FWD. The A3 is too small for me. That said the A4 is a someting we're going to look at again. The AWD drive versions are too much and we have no need for AWD in Florida.
What I want is RWD sports sedan with a stick and as few nanny devices as possible. I want something that is fun to drive and won't kill me on gas. Do you know if you turn off the stability control in the 325i you can't use the cruise control?
Cars I'd consider: Miata (no place for my bass or golf clubs), Mustang GT (fun but not a car I want to spend 25,000 miles a year in), 350Z(might work, but reliabilty issues), G35 Coupe (more money than I want to spend).
Most likely I will not find a car a like enough to spend the money on and get an FJ Cruiser or Jeep. There are at least fun in there own way.
Please don't be offended, but I just have to say, you're an odd character.
The BMW 3 is virtually the only car that fits the bill for what you say you really want. If I was in your position, I'd find a way to either work out a deal on trading for a new manual 3 or keep the one you have. In the long run I think you'll enjoy the 3 more than anything else.
The 3's transmission adapts to how you drive. Maybe you need to give it some more time. And maybe push it harder. You said you were meticulous in breaking it in. Maybe you were a little too easy on it.
Anyway, if you trade, at least one benefit is that you will probably avoid a sizeable chunk of sales tax (depending on FL law. In TX sales tax is only charged on the diff between sale price and trade allowance.)
.02
Thanks for the info. Can you still close the armrest compartment with this setup?
I hate the FM transmitters too as some signals tend to cause static especially when you're travelling.
Was wondering if you could post some photos of the setup.
Thanks,
sd
To be a car I'd keep I'd have to get a couple of grand more in options to get some BASIC needs like a folding rear seat or appropriately sized tires and I still wouldn't have adjustable lumbar support for the seats.
It would be the right car for me if it was properly executed and supported.
As for the adaptive transmission: How does it adapt? Does it adapt in D mode or only in S mode? What happens if two different people regularly drive the car?
I might be an odd character in that I am a consumer that doesn't just accept what manufacturers supply. The car market is one of global cosumerism and marketing to the masses. The 325i is smooth and quiet with great brakes and looks, but ultimately it is bland, very bland.
Promise to make some pictures tonight.
Yes, I can close the armrest compartment without any problems. It was also my biggest concern since I bought this thing without seeing it first. But it turned out to be ok.
mike
Thanks for your reply. This is not only my first BMW, but also my first time to have a car that has this feature. Even after hearing your explanation, I still think that this is one safety feature that I'd prefer to do without. How many times are you on the road and the temperature drops and the wet road you are travelling on may start freezing up? And on those few occassions every winter, are there really any times that you would not have recognized the potentially dangerous road conditions for yourself, without a warning sound? The car's computer shows the outside temperature in the dash. Isn't that and your own common sense good enough? Throughout the whole winter and even late autumn and early spring, just about every time I get into my car it will greet me with that annoying sound when the outside temperature is 37 or less. Seems to me that this feature is annoying and false positive 99% of the time and potentially helpful 1% of the time.
I can't complain about much else!
Sure, if you go in with that attitude.
European invoice on a stick 325i is $25,645. Walk in and tell 'em you'll write a check if they sell you a car for $1000 over that ( euro delivery ). Eventually some dealer/salesperson will say "ok."
Then you sell your car personally, if no one will give you a decent trade. If your bimmer is a desirable one, you might come out ahead, who knows?
dave
link title
Don't tell me the BMW doesn't have Homelink.