CNN Headline News is replaying a story regarding Smart Money Magazine's updated new-car buying guide. They rated the RX 330 as the Best New-Car Value within the Luxury SUV category. The MDX came in 2nd place, followed by the FX35.
When observing the winners in all of the various categories, I noticed that the European manufacturers, particularly BMW, did very well within the various sedan, wagon, and sports car categories. However, they were a complete no-show within the SUV categories. (I guess not everyone agrees with VW that the Touareg is such a good value?)
Anyone know if the rear windshield wiper can be pulled out and away from the window more than 2 inches without having to hold onto it? I didn't want to force it, just in case I end up breaking or snapping it. On my toyota suv, the rear windshield wiper can be pulled out and away from the window without having to hold onto it when cleaning window, etc.
I have occasional rattling coming from the rear seat sliding bracket area if I slide the rear seats all the way back and I drive on uneven surfaces. I think it may be due to no weight on top of the bracket. If I slide the rear seats forward as far as it can go, I haven't noticed any rattling. Anyone else experience this?
Interesting rattle observation by rx4me. Perhaps this is the source of my mysterious rattle. I will have to experiment based on your comments.
I have the same question about the windshield wiper. It seems to me it could be a bit more user friendly...especially since the dark tint windows are hard to keep clean.
I too have a rattle but I think mine is coming from my lift gate or spoiler. You may want to squeeze in the hatch (yes, it can be done) and see if the noise is actually coming from behind the seat in the hatch area. I have my car in the dealer today and they will hopefully find the noise. I will let you know what they find.
1) As I've mentioned before, we had a rattle under the floor just behind the driver seat. It was a tapping sound that occurred only at highway speeds, apparently due to wind turbulence. I isolated the source to be the unsecured corner of a plastic cover underneath, near the driver-side "B" pillar. (It's extremely easy to see this plastic cover plate, if you take a look underneath near the driver's door.) The service technician attached a couple thin strips of foam insulation to the edge of the cover, where it was tapping against the car's chassis. Problem solved.
2)We have a minor rattle due to the rear cargo cover. I emphasize "MINOR". The noise level is so low that it's barely worth mentioning, even for a picky listener such as myself. The cover rattles slightly when it is open. When we close the cargo cover, the rattle disappears.
Put some two sided tape on the back of the license plate or place a small paper towel behind it. Bet one of these approaches will stop the rattle-it did for me.
I use my rear cargo door a lot. I am driving the RX300 which has a key entry. I suspect I will miss this when I purchase the 330 as many times I did not lock the rear door while locking the rest of the car.
If you live north of the snowline, as I do, Seattle area, now would be a good time to think serious about disabling your A/C compressor. On my RX300 I simply unplug the refrigerant pressure sensor switch just in front of the radiator. In older models I always unplugged the A/C compressor clutch circuit.
WHY ???
Most modern day automotive A/C systems, most especially those of the automatic climate control variety, will automatically engage the A/C system to help dehumidify the incoming airstream (you wouldn't DARE be in recirulate at this point!).
At moderately cool outside temperatures, down to about 45F, this can often be a great advantage. But below these temperatures the efficiency of the A/C to dehumidify the incoming airstream declines precipetously, until at just above freezing, ~35F, there is NO dehumidification capability whatsoever.
With outside temperatures below 45F your system should never be in recirculate, and should ALWAYS remain in the mode wherein outlet airflow is significantly heated and routed through the footwell outlet ducts, with a portion bled off to the windshield defrost/defog/demist ducts. This latter air flow is there, by factory design, to help (hopefully) keep the interior of the windshield above dewpoint, the point at which condensation begins to form.
If you have a manually operated system then it will be up to you to remember to monitor the outside temperature and be sure the system has the proper airflow routing, footwell only, as the outside temperature declines.
If you happen to have one of the automatic climate control systems designed or manufactured by NipponDenso in Japan, or Denso USA, in the US, Toyota and Lexus for instance, it will be "biased" toward "cooling" mode (airflow outlet to the face and upper body) regardless of COLD outside temperatures and your personal discomfort due to radiant "cooling" from the COLD surrounding landscape.
Again, it will be up to you, as the driver and therefore "protector" of yourself and your passengers, to be extremely vigilent and ALWAYS over-ride the system from "automatic" outlet airflow control mode, to footwell and defrost/defog/demist mode manually when outside temperatures decline below 45F.
Now.
If the outside temperature is below 45F and IF the interior of your windshield beings to fog over, even ever so slightly, you need to take IMMEDIATE action.
1. Turn the temperature control all the way UP, to MAX HEAT. 2. Turn the system Blower all the way to MAXIMUM speed. 3. THEN.... Change the system outlet airflow mode to defrost/defog/demist.
So, why did this happen, why did the windshield start to fog over?
First, let's assume you followed the above instructions and the system was in heating mode, footwell and defrost/defog/demist airflow mode, and NOT IN RECIRCULATE!
At, say, 65MPH on a really cold day your windshield is being quite thoroughly chilled with the COLD airstream impinging on the outside at 65MPH even though there is a significant level of warming airflow from the system flowing its interior surface.
But now you just picked up two sweaty and wet snow skiers and you're headed back down the mountain. Or you were headed up to the slopes and your passengers became stressed out (sweating profusely) due to the ice and snow covered roadbed and the sometimes unavoidable side-slipping of the vehicle.
Cracking a rear window slightly will almost always help move the cool dry air through the vehicle.
If you have not disabled your A/C for wintertime driving there may be yet another cause for the windshield fogging over.
Your A/C system was running but now isn't.
1. It may have shut down of it's own accord, automatically, a few moments ago, due to declining outside temperatures, 35F or below. Many modern systems will do this automatically, with no warning or obvious indication to the operator.
2. You may have just previosuly used the defrost/defog/demist mode, unaware that this mode automatically activates the A/C system to assist in dehumidification. Once you return the system to normal operation the A/C will shutdown provided you have used the control functionality to turn it off.
3. You may have just noticed that the temperatures have declined and manually turned off the useless A/C.
But why would any of these actions lead to windshield fogging to the point of being a real safety issue??
Long story, but first a short version.
When the A/C is operating it will almost always "gather" airborne water vapor onto the evaporator vanes. As more and more moisture accumulates it will eventually become dropletts large enough that gravity overcomes viscosity and then run down the face of the evaporator and out the drain provided for this purpose.
When the A/C compressor is first shut down the temperature of the evaporator surfaces will begin to rise. And remember ALL system inlet airflow, fresh and recirculated, comes through the evaporator. So that thin film of moisture, the film of moisture that had not yet gained enough mass to overcome viscosity, will begin to evaporate into the atmosphere within the passenger cabin.
BINGO!
Cold windshield, high atmospheric humidity.
The windshield begins to fog over!
Modern day exacerbating circumstances...
1. New, less efficient refrigerant.
With the advent of the use of the new less efficient refrigerants automotive designers were fored to come up with ways to make up for the loss of efficiency.
The most obvious way, and the one most often chosen, was to make the evaporator itsself a lot more efficient. The evaporator in my 1984 T-bird had about 2500 square inches of evaporator cooling surface. The one in the newer vehicles is more typically in the range of 10,000 square inches.
More evaporator surface area = more moisture left over to humidify the passenger cabin once the A/C is turned off.
2. Reduce the cabin atmosphere's "exhaust" outflow.
On a minute by minute basis, the less "conditioned" air that leaves the controlled environment the less incoming airflow that must be cooled.
3. Lower the system blower speed.
The slower the airflow moves through the evaporator vanes the more "heat" it gives up. A lower blower speed also results in even less exhaust outflow due to blower induced pressure differentials.
The Lexus car series is very well insulated for sound deadening and wind noise. MY 92 LS400, in fully automatic mode, could be using recirculate for 90% of the flow in the winter or summer, with the indicator light showing "fresh" mode.
Why is it so imperitive to NOT run the climate control system in recirculate mode? Seems this would reduce the amount of moisture brought into the cabin.
I've had several cars with automatic climate control systems, and I've never had a problem with the windshield fogging up when I allowed the system to run with the A/C compressor on. I don't know if that means I've been lucky, or if these cars all limited the time period when they temporarily shut down the A/C?
I also don't understand why you wouldn't use the dash button to turn off the A/C compressor rather than making a semi-permanent disengagement to the A/C system under the hood? I would like to have the capability to draw upon dry compressed air in an emergency.
In the manual, it says that 87 is required and 89+ is recommended (might be wrong). What do most of you use? I am about to get my first fill-up, so I am curious to know which to use Thanks a lot for the advice
Our human metabolism is a major source of humidity. Put four adults in a car for a reasonably long journey with the temperature below 35F (no A/C) and recirculate on and within an hour the interior humidity will be unbearable.
Fresh incoming airflow, especially in cold weather when the humidity is usually low, helps to reduce the humidity within the cabin, assuming an easy and unobstructed outflow path is provided.
wwest: Thanks for the replies. If you run the climate system in normal mode, but adjust the airflow so that most/all of it blows up out of the dash onto the windshield, doesn't the A/C dash button still control the compressor?
Mark: Last I read, the Highlander doesn't have a 7-seat option. I've seen several reviews that say the RX 330 is not primarily intended as a family hauler. If you want a 3rd row seat, Lexus wants you to move up to the GX470.
The Highlander does have a 3rd row option - every new ad mow mentions it. Lexus seems to be moving to a sportier look and feel (and image) with the RX330. Since it has a 3rd row option with its two other SUV's, they don't seem to be in any rush to add it as an option on the RX330. If they did it would be for small children only - even the 3rd row in the GX is pretty tight.
Hi I just put a $1000 deposit on a special order RX 330, AWD, premium pkg (not prem plus), heated seats, and wood wheel. My dealer tells me delivery will be about 90 days but he will have a better idea in a few weeks. Has anyone special ordered and how long has it taken? I'm wondering if it will arrive sooner since it will likely be built in canada.
Ordered mine on 9-11-03. Received a phonecall yesterday that it will be in in about 2 weeks. When I ordered, the sales manager told me that Canadian rx's won't be shipped until first of the year. During yesterdays phone call the salesman said that Canada is shipping now and he does't know which I am getting. Hope it's not uppa us.
Sure it would work, routing the airflow to the interior of the windshield without putting the system in demist mode, but I have no idea how one would go about accomplishing that without makeshift exterior ductwork.
No, no, no! Sorry for the confusion. My question was much simpler than that. Instead of using the climate control system in full "auto" mode, use the airflow direction control (on the dash) to manually direct the air flow out of the top of the dash (instead of through the dash vents or floor vents). From my perspective, it seems this is an easy way to get airflow to the inside of the windshield without the A/C compressor engaged.
No need to have them do this before taking delivery - you can have it done at any time if after driving it you think there is a need. Most owners have no complaints about the shifting. The update is a fix for only those that do.
<Sarcasm On> YES!! It is a must! In fact, even jeffmust would say this is a must! Refuse delivery without it! Don't put your family in danger. Be prepared to change to the FX35 Sport if they refuse!! <Sarcasm Off>
Actually, I would like to see a survey of how many RX 330 owners have had this TSB service performed. My guess is very few. As an example, just one month ago my dealer was not aware this TSB existed.
In short, no, it is not a "must". Although I plan to eventually have this service performed, I'm not in any big hurry. Yes, I like to drive this family wagon with some enthusiasm, but I don't notice any significant issues whatsoever -- just an occasional slow downshift reaction when driving at low speeds.
If you do ask to have the TSB performed before delivery, please report back and let us know the dealer's response. Thanks!
I started a poll in another clublexus forum, and from the 20 so far responders, 7 responded with "YES - Noticeable Improvement"; 9 respoded with "NO - Not Yet, but will on my next service"; 2 responded with "NO - I will not get the ECM update"; 0 respoded with "YES - No Improvement"; and finally 2 respoded with "YES - Can't Tell The Difference".
I had the TSB service performed two weeks ago during my 1000 mile service. I was having problems with a very choppy shift into second and a noticeable hesitation and jerk when I re-accelerated after coasting at 10-15 mph. The TSB seems to have helped. The shift into second is much smoother. I still have a slight hesitation, but nowhere near as bad as it was. The service advisor said I was the first person to ask about the TSB. He even thanked me for bringing it to their attention.
I agree with kcr2. My Lexus was behaving exactly as theirs was. The TSB made a tremendous difference. It is still not the smoothing shifting car but second gear is much much smoother. I just drove a loaner this week that obviously had not gotten the TSB. It shifted noticebly rougher. I would recommend everyone get it during their next scheduled service visit. It takes about 30-45 minutes.
installed the software for changing shift points 2 weeks ago during my 5000 mile checkup. I complained about the poor shifting at 10-15 mph in this forum about 6 weeks ago and was advised by one of you of the bulletin and asked the service to do it. He advised me that once the change was made, it cannot be restored to the original setting. I told him bull. If it performs poorly I'd camp at his doorstep until it was right. Well it did the job beautifully. It shifts great in all ranges including the slow speed. I recommend to anyone having the problem to do the change. They all know about the bulletin & I sincerely thank the person who originally published it.
Is this TSB given any publicity outside of these automotive forums? I wonder if the dealers are providing this information to every RX 330 owner who comes in for service? I'm guessing that most owners are not made aware of this TSB unless they read these forums, or maybe if they complain about their shifting. (Is it on the Lexus owners web page?)
Hopefully, my local dealer is now fully aware of this service. If not, I'll bring them a copy of that TSB! If the advisor plays dumb, I'll make like the Borg. ("Resistance is futile.")
Actually, I'm still not in any big hurry. I may wait for the next oil change. Our shifting doesn't seem to be all that bad.
I actually tried to have the service done at my 1000 mile check-up. The service writer was well aware of it, but that evening their mechanic who apparently does this type of work was not on duty, and the guys back in the shop could not get the update "to take." They said to call back and schedule another appointment in the daytime. Since the shifting seems to be OK - earlier I had detected some rough shifting from 1st to 2nd - I'll probably wait until the next service unless the rough shifting comes back. Maybe by now the night shift techs have figured it out.
Can anyone tell me what brand of tires come with the standard 17 inch rims? I'm not sure if they're Goodyear Integrity, Michelin LX4, or something else . Also, if anyone could post or email a picture of the standard 17 inch alloy wheels (I've never seen them) I'd appreciate it.
I thought Lexus sends out a postcard telling the owners to make an appointment for the service. As for registering to Lexus website, they send out nothing but ads.
My 2000 RX300 has this noisy wind deflecter when the sun roof is opened. It pops up in front and is very noisy. By holding it down with your right hand, the noise goes away. Has Lexus corrected this probem on the RX 330?
I test drove three RX's before I purchased mine. Two had Michelin tires and one had Goodyear. Mine was delivered with Michelin but I asked the dealer to switch them for Goodyear (which, to my surprise, the dealer actually did).
I actually re-posted the TSB number a few weeks ago so I thought I should weigh in with an update.
I had the update installed at the 1000 mile check-up. I noticed a BIG difference right away although Queenie occasionally "kicked" into third gear. This problem resolved itself within a few days as the car adjusted to my driving pattern. Now, the transmission is so much smoother that I hardly notice it.
Based on my own experience....if I was to purchase a second RX today, I wouldn't take delivery of it until the transmission update was installed.
can i ask a question? what are you all talking TSB - im plannign to purchase RX 330 and Im interested to know what TSB awnd if i need to get that doen or even mention it when I talke to the dealer again. thanks
I took Queenie on her first "big" road trip this week. I drove roughly 400 miles to Des Moines and back on I-80 through Eastern Iowa. Based on discussions on this board in recent weeks, I took a few notes.
*Engine noise is MUCH louder when the engine is cold. I didn't notice it near as much once I was on the road and driving for awhile.
*Outside temps ranged from 45-55 degrees. I set the "auto" temperature at 78 and the airflow stayed on my feet 100% of the time.
*I stopped to fill-up when I was down to 1/4 of a tank on the gas gauge. It took only 13.8 gallons to top off the tank.
*I averaged 22.5 mpg on the highway with calm winds yesterday (for what it's worth...this section of I-80 is full of rolling hills). I averaged 21.8 on the highway in stiff winds today.
*My combined city/highway average was 21.1 on the trip computer but only 20.5 when I hand calculated it.
Finally, I have a question for this group. Has anyone experienced speaker problems while in ASL? I mainly listen to CD's but on this trip I listened to FM for awhile (I do not have the Levenson system). At 65mph I noticed the passenger side speakers buzzed with distortion with the bass set at 5. It was only slightly better when I backed it down to 3. The speakers don't seem to buzz at lower speeds when I am listening to CD's but it still does when I am listening to FM. I could only partially recreate the sound for my husband while I was parked in the garage when I blasted the sound (above level 30). Since I was parked, ASL was not engaged. I suspect the ASL is contributing to the speaker issue but I'm not convinced this is the entire cause of the problem. I am pretty sure the speaker connections are solid (otherwise I would think the speaker would cut-out entirely... which it is not doing).
Any ideas?
BTW...My husband says I must mention to this group that I am a radio journalist and possess what he calls "the most sensitive ears known to man."
TSB TC005-03 is a Lexus Technical Service Bulletin for reprogramming the electronic computer module for the transmission shifting logic. (I hope I am writing that correctly!) In my opinion, it is a service bulletin that is not widely known, but it appears to be gaining momentum. I am still skeptical whether we will all receive a postcard from Lexus informing us of this procedure. It is definitely worth mentioning to the dealer, as it appears to improve the responsiveness and smoothness of the shifting, as reported here by others. If the dealer does not perform this service before delivery, he should be able to perform this upgrade during your free 1000-mile inspection.
lovemylexus1: You mentioned the "passenger side speakers buzzed." Do you know for sure whether the distortion is heard from more than one speaker, or is there a chance it is caused by a single speaker? The reason I ask is that my first guess in these types of scenarios is that you have one bad speaker. But if you've already played with the fader control and confirmed that the distortion can be heard in more than one speaker on the passenger side, then this suggests a problem with the head unit or amplifier (which may help explain the effects you believe are due to ASL). The odds are very low that you would have 2 bad speakers with the same exact problem.
If the problem is with one speaker, then it doesn't surprise me that the FM stations provide more buzzing than a CD. In general, FM signals will have a higher degree of distortion than a CD. Unfortunately, there is also more variation involved with FM, such as signal strength, and possible distortion caused by the broadcast station. In any case, I've read other instances where a speaker, for whatever reasons, appears fine at lower volumes, but distorts at higher output levels, particularly due to bass and/or distortion.
I don't know as much about Lexus, but it certainly isn't a big surprise when a bad speaker shows up in some of the German cars. The guy who originally owned my previous '99 328i had his door speaker replaced shortly after he took delivery, due to similar reasons you described above. The problem went away after a new speaker was installed.
Several people have posted about their gas mileage calculation vs. what the car reports.
Keep in mind that the automatic shutoff on the gas pump is not calibrated at all. That variation affects your mileage calculation. If you go 300 miles on 15 gallons, a 1/2-gallon variation in where the pump shuts off will skew your calculation by 0.7 mpg, as an example.
The pump will tell you accurately how many gallons you pumped in, but you have no way of knowing if you have filled the tank to the exact same level this time as you did previously.
... but you have no way of knowing if you have filled the tank to the exact same level this time as you did previously.
That's a good point. If, instead, you work with cumulative miles driven and cumulative gallons of gasoline pumped into the tank then those variations will average out over time and give you an accurate measure of mileage.
When I use navigation system on my RX330 the vertical street names are flickering a lot. The horizontal street names are OK. Anyone has this problem? I will bring my car to the dealer next week.
When turning off my engine, I noticed recently that my dash screen has a horizontal line on it. I don't recall seeing that before, unless I just never noticed it. I know it's there as a divider line when the engine or accessory is in the 'on' position, but don't know if it's supposed to still be there when turned off. Anyone know if this is normal?
To ryca & grampajoel Where do you have your rx330 have this tsb service? Mine has the same problem with the trans. Drop off for service today, the service consultant just call and say the technician found no problem at all. I mention about the Tsb-TC005-03 but the consultant say it only apply to ES300 not the RX330. Mine dealer is Lexus watertown and it locate in Boston.
Comments
When observing the winners in all of the various categories, I noticed that the European manufacturers, particularly BMW, did very well within the various sedan, wagon, and sports car categories. However, they were a complete no-show within the SUV categories. (I guess not everyone agrees with VW that the Touareg is such a good value?)
I have the same question about the windshield wiper. It seems to me it could be a bit more user friendly...especially since the dark tint windows are hard to keep clean.
If that's not it make sure its nothing below the rear deck around your tire changing tools.
1) As I've mentioned before, we had a rattle under the floor just behind the driver seat. It was a tapping sound that occurred only at highway speeds, apparently due to wind turbulence. I isolated the source to be the unsecured corner of a plastic cover underneath, near the driver-side "B" pillar. (It's extremely easy to see this plastic cover plate, if you take a look underneath near the driver's door.) The service technician attached a couple thin strips of foam insulation to the edge of the cover, where it was tapping against the car's chassis. Problem solved.
2)We have a minor rattle due to the rear cargo cover. I emphasize "MINOR". The noise level is so low that it's barely worth mentioning, even for a picky listener such as myself. The cover rattles slightly when it is open. When we close the cargo cover, the rattle disappears.
I use my rear cargo door a lot. I am driving the RX300 which has a key entry. I suspect I will miss this when I purchase the 330 as many times I did not lock the rear door while locking the rest of the car.
WHY ???
Most modern day automotive A/C systems, most especially those of the automatic climate control variety, will automatically engage the A/C system to help dehumidify the incoming airstream (you wouldn't DARE be in recirulate at this point!).
At moderately cool outside temperatures, down to about 45F, this can often be a great advantage. But below these temperatures the efficiency of the A/C to dehumidify the incoming airstream declines precipetously, until at just above freezing, ~35F, there is NO dehumidification capability whatsoever.
With outside temperatures below 45F your system should never be in recirculate, and should ALWAYS remain in the mode wherein outlet airflow is significantly heated and routed through the footwell outlet ducts, with a portion bled off to the windshield defrost/defog/demist ducts. This latter air flow is there, by factory design, to help (hopefully) keep the interior of the windshield above dewpoint, the point at which condensation begins to form.
If you have a manually operated system then it will be up to you to remember to monitor the outside temperature and be sure the system has the proper airflow routing, footwell only, as the outside temperature declines.
If you happen to have one of the automatic climate control systems designed or manufactured by NipponDenso in Japan, or Denso USA, in the US, Toyota and Lexus for instance, it will be "biased" toward "cooling" mode (airflow outlet to the face and upper body) regardless of COLD outside temperatures and your personal discomfort due to radiant "cooling" from the COLD surrounding landscape.
Again, it will be up to you, as the driver and therefore "protector" of yourself and your passengers, to be extremely vigilent and ALWAYS over-ride the system from "automatic" outlet airflow control mode, to footwell and defrost/defog/demist mode manually when outside temperatures decline below 45F.
Now.
If the outside temperature is below 45F and IF the interior of your windshield beings to fog over, even ever so slightly, you need to take IMMEDIATE action.
1. Turn the temperature control all the way UP, to MAX HEAT.
2. Turn the system Blower all the way to MAXIMUM speed.
3. THEN....
Change the system outlet airflow mode to defrost/defog/demist.
So, why did this happen, why did the windshield start to fog over?
First, let's assume you followed the above instructions and the system was in heating mode, footwell and defrost/defog/demist airflow mode, and NOT IN RECIRCULATE!
At, say, 65MPH on a really cold day your windshield is being quite thoroughly chilled with the COLD airstream impinging on the outside at 65MPH even though there is a significant level of warming airflow from the system flowing its interior surface.
But now you just picked up two sweaty and wet snow skiers and you're headed back down the mountain. Or you were headed up to the slopes and your passengers became stressed out (sweating profusely) due to the ice and snow covered roadbed and the sometimes unavoidable side-slipping of the vehicle.
Moisture = higher humidity + a cool windshield surface = condensation.
Cracking a rear window slightly will almost always help move the cool dry air through the vehicle.
If you have not disabled your A/C for wintertime driving there may be yet another cause for the windshield fogging over.
Your A/C system was running but now isn't.
1. It may have shut down of it's own accord, automatically, a few moments ago, due to declining outside temperatures, 35F or below. Many modern systems will do this automatically, with no warning or obvious indication to the operator.
2. You may have just previosuly used the defrost/defog/demist mode, unaware that this mode automatically activates the A/C system to assist in dehumidification. Once you return the system to normal operation the A/C will shutdown provided you have used the control functionality to turn it off.
3. You may have just noticed that the temperatures have declined and manually turned off the useless A/C.
But why would any of these actions lead to windshield fogging to the point of being a real safety issue??
Long story, but first a short version.
When the A/C is operating it will almost always "gather" airborne water vapor onto the evaporator vanes. As more and more moisture accumulates it will eventually become dropletts large enough that gravity overcomes viscosity and then run down the face of the evaporator and out the drain provided for this purpose.
When the A/C compressor is first shut down the temperature of the evaporator surfaces will begin to rise. And remember ALL system inlet airflow, fresh and recirculated, comes through the evaporator. So that thin film of moisture, the film of moisture that had not yet gained enough mass to overcome viscosity, will begin to evaporate into the atmosphere within the passenger cabin.
BINGO!
Cold windshield, high atmospheric humidity.
The windshield begins to fog over!
Modern day exacerbating circumstances...
1. New, less efficient refrigerant.
With the advent of the use of the new less efficient refrigerants automotive designers were fored to come up with ways to make up for the loss of efficiency.
The most obvious way, and the one most often chosen, was to make the evaporator itsself a lot more efficient. The evaporator in my 1984 T-bird had about 2500 square inches of evaporator cooling surface. The one in the newer vehicles is more typically in the range of 10,000 square inches.
More evaporator surface area = more moisture left over to humidify the passenger cabin once the A/C is turned off.
2. Reduce the cabin atmosphere's "exhaust" outflow.
On a minute by minute basis, the less "conditioned" air that leaves the controlled environment the less incoming airflow that must be cooled.
3. Lower the system blower speed.
The slower the airflow moves through the evaporator vanes the more "heat" it gives up. A lower blower speed also results in even less exhaust outflow due to blower induced pressure differentials.
The Lexus car series is very well insulated for sound deadening and wind noise. MY 92 LS400, in fully automatic mode, could be using recirculate for 90% of the flow in the winter or summer, with the indicator light showing "fresh" mode.
I've had several cars with automatic climate control systems, and I've never had a problem with the windshield fogging up when I allowed the system to run with the A/C compressor on. I don't know if that means I've been lucky, or if these cars all limited the time period when they temporarily shut down the A/C?
I also don't understand why you wouldn't use the dash button to turn off the A/C compressor rather than making a semi-permanent disengagement to the A/C system under the hood? I would like to have the capability to draw upon dry compressed air in an emergency.
Our human metabolism is a major source of humidity. Put four adults in a car for a reasonably long journey with the temperature below 35F (no A/C) and recirculate on and within an hour the interior humidity will be unbearable.
Fresh incoming airflow, especially in cold weather when the humidity is usually low, helps to reduce the humidity within the cabin, assuming an easy and unobstructed outflow path is provided.
Were it not for the extremely hazardous nature, driving BLIND, of these rare occurances it wouldn't be worth mention.
Thanks,
Mark
Mark: Last I read, the Highlander doesn't have a 7-seat option. I've seen several reviews that say the RX 330 is not primarily intended as a family hauler. If you want a 3rd row seat, Lexus wants you to move up to the GX470.
I ordered mine (Flint Mica with Gray) fully loaded (NAV+RSES) on Monday. Dealer told me 3 to 4 weeks (may be earlier).
When I ordered, the sales manager told me that Canadian rx's won't be shipped until first of the year. During yesterdays phone call the salesman said that Canada is shipping now and he does't know which I am getting.
Hope it's not uppa us.
I ordered mine (Flint Mica with Gray) fully loaded (NAV+RSES) on Monday. Dealer told me 3 to 4 weeks (may be earlier).
Actually, I would like to see a survey of how many RX 330 owners have had this TSB service performed. My guess is very few. As an example, just one month ago my dealer was not aware this TSB existed.
In short, no, it is not a "must". Although I plan to eventually have this service performed, I'm not in any big hurry. Yes, I like to drive this family wagon with some enthusiasm, but I don't notice any significant issues whatsoever -- just an occasional slow downshift reaction when driving at low speeds.
If you do ask to have the TSB performed before delivery, please report back and let us know the dealer's response. Thanks!
Hopefully, my local dealer is now fully aware of this service. If not, I'll bring them a copy of that TSB! If the advisor plays dumb, I'll make like the Borg. ("Resistance is futile.")
Actually, I'm still not in any big hurry. I may wait for the next oil change. Our shifting doesn't seem to be all that bad.
Thanks for all the feedback!
I had the update installed at the 1000 mile check-up. I noticed a BIG difference right away although Queenie occasionally "kicked" into third gear. This problem resolved itself within a few days as the car adjusted to my driving pattern. Now, the transmission is so much smoother that I hardly notice it.
Based on my own experience....if I was to purchase a second RX today, I wouldn't take delivery of it until the transmission update was installed.
thanks
*Engine noise is MUCH louder when the engine is cold. I didn't notice it near as much once I was on the road and driving for awhile.
*Outside temps ranged from 45-55 degrees. I set the "auto" temperature at 78 and the airflow stayed on my feet 100% of the time.
*I stopped to fill-up when I was down to 1/4 of a tank on the gas gauge. It took only 13.8 gallons to top off the tank.
*I averaged 22.5 mpg on the highway with calm winds yesterday (for what it's worth...this section of I-80 is full of rolling hills). I averaged 21.8 on the highway in stiff winds today.
*My combined city/highway average was 21.1 on the trip computer but only 20.5 when I hand calculated it.
Finally, I have a question for this group. Has anyone experienced speaker problems while in ASL? I mainly listen to CD's but on this trip I listened to FM for awhile (I do not have the Levenson system). At 65mph I noticed the passenger side speakers buzzed with distortion with the bass set at 5. It was only slightly better when I backed it down to 3. The speakers don't seem to buzz at lower speeds when I am listening to CD's but it still does when I am listening to FM. I could only partially recreate the sound for my husband while I was parked in the garage when I blasted the sound (above level 30). Since I was parked, ASL was not engaged. I suspect the ASL is contributing to the speaker issue but I'm not convinced this is the entire cause of the problem. I am pretty sure the speaker connections are solid (otherwise I would think the speaker would cut-out entirely... which it is not doing).
Any ideas?
BTW...My husband says I must mention to this group that I am a radio journalist and possess what he calls "the most sensitive ears known to man."
As always, thanks for the insight of this group.
If the problem is with one speaker, then it doesn't surprise me that the FM stations provide more buzzing than a CD. In general, FM signals will have a higher degree of distortion than a CD. Unfortunately, there is also more variation involved with FM, such as signal strength, and possible distortion caused by the broadcast station. In any case, I've read other instances where a speaker, for whatever reasons, appears fine at lower volumes, but distorts at higher output levels, particularly due to bass and/or distortion.
I don't know as much about Lexus, but it certainly isn't a big surprise when a bad speaker shows up in some of the German cars. The guy who originally owned my previous '99 328i had his door speaker replaced shortly after he took delivery, due to similar reasons you described above. The problem went away after a new speaker was installed.
Keep in mind that the automatic shutoff on the gas pump is not calibrated at all. That variation affects your mileage calculation. If you go 300 miles on 15 gallons, a 1/2-gallon variation in where the pump shuts off will skew your calculation by 0.7 mpg, as an example.
The pump will tell you accurately how many gallons you pumped in, but you have no way of knowing if you have filled the tank to the exact same level this time as you did previously.
That's a good point. If, instead, you work with cumulative miles driven and cumulative gallons of gasoline pumped into the tank then those variations will average out over time and give you an accurate measure of mileage.
tidester, host
Where do you have your rx330 have this tsb service? Mine has the same problem with the trans. Drop off for service today, the service consultant just call and say the technician found no problem at all. I mention about the Tsb-TC005-03 but the consultant say it only apply to ES300 not the RX330. Mine dealer is Lexus watertown and it locate in Boston.