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When observing the winners in all of the various categories, I noticed that the European manufacturers, particularly BMW, did very well within the various sedan, wagon, and sports car categories. However, they were a complete no-show within the SUV categories. (I guess not everyone agrees with VW that the Touareg is such a good value?)
I have the same question about the windshield wiper. It seems to me it could be a bit more user friendly...especially since the dark tint windows are hard to keep clean.
If that's not it make sure its nothing below the rear deck around your tire changing tools.
1) As I've mentioned before, we had a rattle under the floor just behind the driver seat. It was a tapping sound that occurred only at highway speeds, apparently due to wind turbulence. I isolated the source to be the unsecured corner of a plastic cover underneath, near the driver-side "B" pillar. (It's extremely easy to see this plastic cover plate, if you take a look underneath near the driver's door.) The service technician attached a couple thin strips of foam insulation to the edge of the cover, where it was tapping against the car's chassis. Problem solved.
2)We have a minor rattle due to the rear cargo cover. I emphasize "MINOR". The noise level is so low that it's barely worth mentioning, even for a picky listener such as myself. The cover rattles slightly when it is open. When we close the cargo cover, the rattle disappears.
I use my rear cargo door a lot. I am driving the RX300 which has a key entry. I suspect I will miss this when I purchase the 330 as many times I did not lock the rear door while locking the rest of the car.
WHY ???
Most modern day automotive A/C systems, most especially those of the automatic climate control variety, will automatically engage the A/C system to help dehumidify the incoming airstream (you wouldn't DARE be in recirulate at this point!).
At moderately cool outside temperatures, down to about 45F, this can often be a great advantage. But below these temperatures the efficiency of the A/C to dehumidify the incoming airstream declines precipetously, until at just above freezing, ~35F, there is NO dehumidification capability whatsoever.
With outside temperatures below 45F your system should never be in recirculate, and should ALWAYS remain in the mode wherein outlet airflow is significantly heated and routed through the footwell outlet ducts, with a portion bled off to the windshield defrost/defog/demist ducts. This latter air flow is there, by factory design, to help (hopefully) keep the interior of the windshield above dewpoint, the point at which condensation begins to form.
If you have a manually operated system then it will be up to you to remember to monitor the outside temperature and be sure the system has the proper airflow routing, footwell only, as the outside temperature declines.
If you happen to have one of the automatic climate control systems designed or manufactured by NipponDenso in Japan, or Denso USA, in the US, Toyota and Lexus for instance, it will be "biased" toward "cooling" mode (airflow outlet to the face and upper body) regardless of COLD outside temperatures and your personal discomfort due to radiant "cooling" from the COLD surrounding landscape.
Again, it will be up to you, as the driver and therefore "protector" of yourself and your passengers, to be extremely vigilent and ALWAYS over-ride the system from "automatic" outlet airflow control mode, to footwell and defrost/defog/demist mode manually when outside temperatures decline below 45F.
Now.
If the outside temperature is below 45F and IF the interior of your windshield beings to fog over, even ever so slightly, you need to take IMMEDIATE action.
1. Turn the temperature control all the way UP, to MAX HEAT.
2. Turn the system Blower all the way to MAXIMUM speed.
3. THEN....
Change the system outlet airflow mode to defrost/defog/demist.
So, why did this happen, why did the windshield start to fog over?
First, let's assume you followed the above instructions and the system was in heating mode, footwell and defrost/defog/demist airflow mode, and NOT IN RECIRCULATE!
At, say, 65MPH on a really cold day your windshield is being quite thoroughly chilled with the COLD airstream impinging on the outside at 65MPH even though there is a significant level of warming airflow from the system flowing its interior surface.
But now you just picked up two sweaty and wet snow skiers and you're headed back down the mountain. Or you were headed up to the slopes and your passengers became stressed out (sweating profusely) due to the ice and snow covered roadbed and the sometimes unavoidable side-slipping of the vehicle.
Moisture = higher humidity + a cool windshield surface = condensation.
Cracking a rear window slightly will almost always help move the cool dry air through the vehicle.
If you have not disabled your A/C for wintertime driving there may be yet another cause for the windshield fogging over.
Your A/C system was running but now isn't.
1. It may have shut down of it's own accord, automatically, a few moments ago, due to declining outside temperatures, 35F or below. Many modern systems will do this automatically, with no warning or obvious indication to the operator.
2. You may have just previosuly used the defrost/defog/demist mode, unaware that this mode automatically activates the A/C system to assist in dehumidification. Once you return the system to normal operation the A/C will shutdown provided you have used the control functionality to turn it off.
3. You may have just noticed that the temperatures have declined and manually turned off the useless A/C.
But why would any of these actions lead to windshield fogging to the point of being a real safety issue??
Long story, but first a short version.
When the A/C is operating it will almost always "gather" airborne water vapor onto the evaporator vanes. As more and more moisture accumulates it will eventually become dropletts large enough that gravity overcomes viscosity and then run down the face of the evaporator and out the drain provided for this purpose.
When the A/C compressor is first shut down the temperature of the evaporator surfaces will begin to rise. And remember ALL system inlet airflow, fresh and recirculated, comes through the evaporator. So that thin film of moisture, the film of moisture that had not yet gained enough mass to overcome viscosity, will begin to evaporate into the atmosphere within the passenger cabin.
BINGO!
Cold windshield, high atmospheric humidity.
The windshield begins to fog over!
Modern day exacerbating circumstances...
1. New, less efficient refrigerant.
With the advent of the use of the new less efficient refrigerants automotive designers were fored to come up with ways to make up for the loss of efficiency.
The most obvious way, and the one most often chosen, was to make the evaporator itsself a lot more efficient. The evaporator in my 1984 T-bird had about 2500 square inches of evaporator cooling surface. The one in the newer vehicles is more typically in the range of 10,000 square inches.
More evaporator surface area = more moisture left over to humidify the passenger cabin once the A/C is turned off.
2. Reduce the cabin atmosphere's "exhaust" outflow.
On a minute by minute basis, the less "conditioned" air that leaves the controlled environment the less incoming airflow that must be cooled.
3. Lower the system blower speed.
The slower the airflow moves through the evaporator vanes the more "heat" it gives up. A lower blower speed also results in even less exhaust outflow due to blower induced pressure differentials.
The Lexus car series is very well insulated for sound deadening and wind noise. MY 92 LS400, in fully automatic mode, could be using recirculate for 90% of the flow in the winter or summer, with the indicator light showing "fresh" mode.
I've had several cars with automatic climate control systems, and I've never had a problem with the windshield fogging up when I allowed the system to run with the A/C compressor on. I don't know if that means I've been lucky, or if these cars all limited the time period when they temporarily shut down the A/C?
I also don't understand why you wouldn't use the dash button to turn off the A/C compressor rather than making a semi-permanent disengagement to the A/C system under the hood? I would like to have the capability to draw upon dry compressed air in an emergency.
Our human metabolism is a major source of humidity. Put four adults in a car for a reasonably long journey with the temperature below 35F (no A/C) and recirculate on and within an hour the interior humidity will be unbearable.
Fresh incoming airflow, especially in cold weather when the humidity is usually low, helps to reduce the humidity within the cabin, assuming an easy and unobstructed outflow path is provided.
Were it not for the extremely hazardous nature, driving BLIND, of these rare occurances it wouldn't be worth mention.
Thanks,
Mark
Mark: Last I read, the Highlander doesn't have a 7-seat option. I've seen several reviews that say the RX 330 is not primarily intended as a family hauler. If you want a 3rd row seat, Lexus wants you to move up to the GX470.
I ordered mine (Flint Mica with Gray) fully loaded (NAV+RSES) on Monday. Dealer told me 3 to 4 weeks (may be earlier).
When I ordered, the sales manager told me that Canadian rx's won't be shipped until first of the year. During yesterdays phone call the salesman said that Canada is shipping now and he does't know which I am getting.
Hope it's not uppa us.
I ordered mine (Flint Mica with Gray) fully loaded (NAV+RSES) on Monday. Dealer told me 3 to 4 weeks (may be earlier).
Actually, I would like to see a survey of how many RX 330 owners have had this TSB service performed. My guess is very few. As an example, just one month ago my dealer was not aware this TSB existed.
In short, no, it is not a "must". Although I plan to eventually have this service performed, I'm not in any big hurry. Yes, I like to drive this family wagon with some enthusiasm, but I don't notice any significant issues whatsoever -- just an occasional slow downshift reaction when driving at low speeds.
If you do ask to have the TSB performed before delivery, please report back and let us know the dealer's response. Thanks!
Hopefully, my local dealer is now fully aware of this service. If not, I'll bring them a copy of that TSB! If the advisor plays dumb, I'll make like the Borg. ("Resistance is futile.")
Actually, I'm still not in any big hurry. I may wait for the next oil change. Our shifting doesn't seem to be all that bad.
Thanks for all the feedback!
I had the update installed at the 1000 mile check-up. I noticed a BIG difference right away although Queenie occasionally "kicked" into third gear. This problem resolved itself within a few days as the car adjusted to my driving pattern. Now, the transmission is so much smoother that I hardly notice it.
Based on my own experience....if I was to purchase a second RX today, I wouldn't take delivery of it until the transmission update was installed.
thanks
*Engine noise is MUCH louder when the engine is cold. I didn't notice it near as much once I was on the road and driving for awhile.
*Outside temps ranged from 45-55 degrees. I set the "auto" temperature at 78 and the airflow stayed on my feet 100% of the time.
*I stopped to fill-up when I was down to 1/4 of a tank on the gas gauge. It took only 13.8 gallons to top off the tank.
*I averaged 22.5 mpg on the highway with calm winds yesterday (for what it's worth...this section of I-80 is full of rolling hills). I averaged 21.8 on the highway in stiff winds today.
*My combined city/highway average was 21.1 on the trip computer but only 20.5 when I hand calculated it.
Finally, I have a question for this group. Has anyone experienced speaker problems while in ASL? I mainly listen to CD's but on this trip I listened to FM for awhile (I do not have the Levenson system). At 65mph I noticed the passenger side speakers buzzed with distortion with the bass set at 5. It was only slightly better when I backed it down to 3. The speakers don't seem to buzz at lower speeds when I am listening to CD's but it still does when I am listening to FM. I could only partially recreate the sound for my husband while I was parked in the garage when I blasted the sound (above level 30). Since I was parked, ASL was not engaged. I suspect the ASL is contributing to the speaker issue but I'm not convinced this is the entire cause of the problem. I am pretty sure the speaker connections are solid (otherwise I would think the speaker would cut-out entirely... which it is not doing).
Any ideas?
BTW...My husband says I must mention to this group that I am a radio journalist and possess what he calls "the most sensitive ears known to man."
As always, thanks for the insight of this group.
If the problem is with one speaker, then it doesn't surprise me that the FM stations provide more buzzing than a CD. In general, FM signals will have a higher degree of distortion than a CD. Unfortunately, there is also more variation involved with FM, such as signal strength, and possible distortion caused by the broadcast station. In any case, I've read other instances where a speaker, for whatever reasons, appears fine at lower volumes, but distorts at higher output levels, particularly due to bass and/or distortion.
I don't know as much about Lexus, but it certainly isn't a big surprise when a bad speaker shows up in some of the German cars. The guy who originally owned my previous '99 328i had his door speaker replaced shortly after he took delivery, due to similar reasons you described above. The problem went away after a new speaker was installed.
Keep in mind that the automatic shutoff on the gas pump is not calibrated at all. That variation affects your mileage calculation. If you go 300 miles on 15 gallons, a 1/2-gallon variation in where the pump shuts off will skew your calculation by 0.7 mpg, as an example.
The pump will tell you accurately how many gallons you pumped in, but you have no way of knowing if you have filled the tank to the exact same level this time as you did previously.
That's a good point. If, instead, you work with cumulative miles driven and cumulative gallons of gasoline pumped into the tank then those variations will average out over time and give you an accurate measure of mileage.
tidester, host
Where do you have your rx330 have this tsb service? Mine has the same problem with the trans. Drop off for service today, the service consultant just call and say the technician found no problem at all. I mention about the Tsb-TC005-03 but the consultant say it only apply to ES300 not the RX330. Mine dealer is Lexus watertown and it locate in Boston.