Hit the step button until the display goes to Miles to Service and hit reset. If you reset to factory settings, it will change all the custom selections you have made, like going back to 6,000 miles between service. I have my service interval set at 4,500 miles. I did my first oil change, however, at 3,000 miles.
:sick: My 2004 Pacifica (23,400 miles) was hit on the left front fender at an intersection- Driver that ran the red light was travelling @ 35MPH 2 months ago. My Pacifica "held" its ground and I wasn't hurt - just shook up...Initial repairs cost $6600. Her insurance has paid for all body work thus far but we recently discovered a transmission leak (ATF+4 fluid) that we traced to a "crack" in the transmission casing. If I'm successful in making the insurance company replace the entire transmission with a new one instead of just the casing, what "diminution of value" should I expect, if I try to resell it? Or, after $10000 in repairs, what do you think it's worth now? Even though it's in excellent driving condition again, how soon should I have it fixed? => I understand the ATF+4 is flammable - I would not like to "go up in flames" at another intersection... :confuse:
I do not think that a replacement transmission hurts your resale value. The initial repair is probably tied to your VIN number by your insurance company, and that will impact your resale value. I suggest that you get the transmission replaced as soon as the insurance company pays off, and enjoy the car. I am at 600 miles on my 2006, and it is starting to grow on me daily.
Actually, I was turning into the parking lot where I work; I was making a left turn and applying the breaks to slow down as I was driving down a slight grade. As I was turning I quickly noticed that steering became very hard as well as the breaking; the vehicle had STALLED! The vehicle's plate says it was built in May 2005. I have Chrysler Pacifica Limited 2005. I have an appointment to bring in the vehicle in two days.
Well, I took my vehicle to service and the computer had logged the event; it was a fault in the AIS. They ordered a new part and replaced the faulty part. I had two days to drive the vehicle before I took it into service and I didn't experience another STALL; I even tried to reproduce the STALL, but could not. Hopefully, I shall never experience another stall. Service suggested that the vehicle could have stalled due to the faulty part at anytime, not just when coming to a stop or even while breaking while turning.
Service seemed interested that I make routine use of the auto-stick. I use it to keep the car in a specific gear while climbing or entering the highway as well as to down-shift to slow down without breaking.
Lately, I've been putting in 87 octane gas and using SNAP or STP Octane boost. Other times I've used both mid grade (which is called for in the manual) and premium gas.
My wife has a 2005 Pacifica Touring. Since new, I felt that it was rough when shifting in gear (drive / reverse, not using the autostick). It could be described as a knocking noise. We also have a 2006 Honda Odyssey which I don't feel is very smooth when putting it into gear.
It was your fault because you drove a defective car. What if you had caused a crash when you drove over the loose bumper. Whose fault would that have been?
I have been unable to open the fuse box under the hood, I just don't seem to understand /operate the latch thing properly. I haven't needed to yet, but I can visualize the day when maybe I need to, and won't be able to do it.
Anyone else out there have this difficulty? :confuse:
I will do my first oil change this weekend on my 2006 Pacifica as it will be at 3,000 miles tomorrow. On my previous GM car, I could get AC oil filters at the local auto parts store. I do not see any Mopar filters on the shelf. I like the Mobil1 filter, but they are pricey for a 3,000 mile change. Should I go back to my Chrysler dealer, or is there a better alternative? I have heard bad stories about Fram filters.
The Fram filter stories come down to three issues: 1. The Fram filters do not contain as much filter material as the OEM filters. 2. The bypass spring in the Fram filters is weaker than the OEM filters, so they have a tendency to bypass before the OEM filters do. 3. The wall thickness of the Fram filters is less than the OEM filters, so they have a tendency to burst before the factory filters do. I believe Edmunds has a thread on this subject.
My own observations are that the Fram filters start letting the oil darken from whatever it's carrying sooner mileage wise than the Purolator Premium or Pure Ones did. The Pure Ones stayer clearer longer. I've tried different filters since reading bobistheoilguy's report a couple years ago.
I have a Fram oil filter on my Pacifica right now, I have never heard of bad reports about Fram. As a matter of fact, Fram oil filters have been on my last 6 or so cars.......
The cool thing about Fram is that they are rubberized so you can screw them on and off without an oil filter wrench.
Buy the Fram and drive , I say........the number, I believe is PH 16, it will set you back less than $7.
NEVER NEVER NEVER buy the Mopar (Chrysler) gas cap (I mean the one with key, if you want to replace the keyless one).
It's the crappiest I ever saw. A nightmare to use, potentially impossible to remove at the gas station. I put it in garbage yesterday after paying CAN$ 25 for it to my beloved dealer a couple of months ago. I got from the general hardware store (Canadian Tire) a perfect one for CAN$ 20.
Hey, I don't mean to be rude or anything, but I am 49 years old, college educated, and I will continue to use Fram filters because I do not know what a blown engine even looks like. I have even used Fram filters on two Renaults over the years, (80,000 total miles, and I have NEVER had an oil or oil related problem..........).
Hey , you know what? Tell Bob the oil chimp this........If you change your oil EVERY 3,000 miles, you can use a paper coffee filter if you want to............Enough said on this subject........................... :mad:
:sick: Has D-C ever issued a service bulletin on this? Every dealer I talk to knows about this problem (although they have differing levels of success fixing it). Reviewing this thread, I don't see a single definitive fix - maybe there are several? My local dealer has worked on mine 3 times already.
Mine stalls more frequently in the rain/high humidity, and the problem usually only happens when the engine is cold. It just doesn't seem to hold idle or low revs. That also explains the stalling during turning and stopping that many others reported. I now only use "top tier" 91 octane gas, with moderately improved results.
Do you recall whether your Pacifica stalls with the AC on or the AC off or both? I am a newbie owner of a 2006 Pacifica with 4,000 miles. It has not stalled for me. As the weather has cooled, I have begun driving the car without AC for the first time. I notice that the idle speed is lower without the AC on. When I put the AC back on, the idle speed increases.
I too have a 2005 pacifica touring about 3000 miles on it just got it in september and it has been in 3x for service due to stalling! Has Anyone had issue with this at a higher speed? I am concerned for my families safety. Also I will be filing this as a lemon with the state of ohio. if anyone knows how to fix this let me know please. My dealership can not find the problem nor have they heard anything about it.
Hmmm, hadn't noticed that. I'll check next time it happens - experience tells me it will happen again. I noticed another thread out there where they talk about keeping the fuel tank >1/2 full, and that's what my dealer told me yesterday as well. I guess the car's just not safe unless it's gassed up?
My wife has a 2005 Pacifica. I usually do all of my own oil changes, but since this is under warranty I have the dealer do it on this vehicle. I give them a 5 quart container of Mobil 1 and they charge $19.21 with tax to change the oil, provide the filter and wash and vacuum. The best part is that since it is my wife's car I do not even have to drive it to the dealer. She does. I just buy the oil.
I have a 2006 Pac Touring (I LOVE this car ). I wanted to put a K&N filter in, but since it's a 2006, the filter size is not listed anywhere either online, or in K&N manuals.
I am sure it is the same size that would fit a 2005 Pac, but I am just looking for some confirmation. Any one happen to know? I've been looking for info for 3 days online and can't find out.
I just installed the K&N AIR filter on my 2006 (I am guessing that is what you meant to say, if not I apologize). Used the 2005 model without any problem.
The filters in this test were tested for both flow and filtration. The pressure drop across a filter is a good indication of its ability to rob the engine of needed airflow and hence power. Obviously the air filter with the least pressure drop is the highest performing.
I too am a scientist and like the test, but have problems with it. I would never assume anything as in Obviously the air filter... The highest performing filter is the highest performing filter on a car. You would have to run performance tests of some type on different cars to make this statement.
The test goes on to say that the regular paper filters filter better. The question is "are the premium filters good enough". How good do you need? Again, this can only be tested on a car presumably by the rate of engine failure caused by particulate from the intake and no where else.
None of this is easy to do scientifically with stastical confidence.
Have about 55K on my two year old pacifica, love it! After the dealer fixed a faulty check engine light on the 3rd try a new problem showed up. While driving the fuel gauge will shut off, causing the warning chime to sound. A few seconds later the gauge will work again, showing how gas is left. Sometimes it does it about 5 time in succession, other times it will be fine for a couple of weeks. Recently it is doing it every drive. Dealer charged $85 to tell it will cost $600 to replace the sending unit in the gas tank. Any others have similar problem. The cost of the fix seems high for a car less then two years old.
One or two years ago I heard lots of people complaining about such a gas gauge behavior. I think a free software upgrade fixed it. I don't know about your car though ...
It's weird you have to pay US$85 for diagnostic. I always predicted that these extremely complex cars will cost a fortune to fix when they become old. In 16 years I never paid one penny for diagnostic, when fixing my 1989 Volvo 240 wagon.
Why ... why ... why ... they don't make them anymore ?!?
I have a 2004 Pacifica. Has anyone had any problems with it knocking when you start it or while you are driving? I have had to have mine towed twice for this.
At around 40000 miles my perform service light came on on my dash. It comes on when the car is first started, stays on for a few seconds, then goes off. This is the first Pacifica I have owned, & I can't find anything in the owners manual ( unless I missed it) so what service needs performed? Do I need to take it to a mechanic to get the light to go out, or can I replace whatever needs replaced & the light will go out? I am moderately mechanically inclined & could do alot on my own. Thanks for any feedback.
Hey, I too have an '04 White pacifica with 31,500 miles, I have not had any lights like you describe, if you have kept up with the oil changes, air filter changes, and check your fluid levels, you should be OK. I would get out the owner's manual and keep to the "B " , or more aggressive service interval, for oil /air filter changes........Likely, it is nothing serious, it is probably a dealer item, though. I don't think anything is seriously wrong , provided you have kept up with maintenance..........
We had the same problem. The dealer charged us $70.00 to perform a software upgrade. that fixed the problem at approx 29000 miles. Go for a second opinion with another dealer. best of luck, Norm E.
I change my oil every 6-7months so because of the long interval, I decided to spend the extra money and use synthetic (Mobil 1). Some might argue that synthetic users waste their money. But it's my money so to hell w. it. I use Mobil 1(~$6.00/quart) for motor oil and Purolator PureOne (~$6.00/filter) for my oil filter.
I too have a 2005 Pacifica touring right now it has about 17000 miles on it. I have had a stalling problem for several months now and have had it at the dealer twice. The first time the service department told me that the car has two fuel injectors and when you make a turn the gas sloshes to one side and causes the car to stall. I swear that is what they told me. The second time they hooked it up to the system and of course didn't find anything wrong with it. I too have a child and am concerned for his safety. I am going to speak with the owner and have him either replace the car or buy me out of my lease. I can't drive a car that I can't trust.
Technical Service Bulletin TSB 1803905 addresses the stalling problem. My 2006 Pacifica has not stalled since I had the TSB done. For more information you can read my post #4 in the Edmunds' Chrysler Pacifica Starting/Stalling forum. Good luck!
I have an 04 pac too with 42,000 miles. "PERFORM SERVICE" comes on everytime we start the car. THERE IS NOTHING IN THE MANUAL saying what in the heck this light means. Anyone find out what service it is refering too? Our car has been maintained to the T at every mileage interval. The dealer is offering not information!
Comments
Thank you for the information on the rear seat headsets... Now if I could only get
the mirrors fixed...
Ed
Service seemed interested that I make routine use of the auto-stick. I use it to keep the car in a specific gear while climbing or entering the highway as well as to down-shift to slow down without breaking.
Lately, I've been putting in 87 octane gas and using SNAP or STP Octane boost. Other times I've used both mid grade (which is called for in the manual) and premium gas.
Anyone else out there have this difficulty? :confuse:
I have three on the shelf, that's why I'm asking.
1. The Fram filters do not contain as much filter material as the OEM filters.
2. The bypass spring in the Fram filters is weaker than the OEM filters, so they have a tendency to bypass before the OEM filters do.
3. The wall thickness of the Fram filters is less than the OEM filters, so they have a tendency to burst before the factory filters do.
I believe Edmunds has a thread on this subject.
Thanks
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
The cool thing about Fram is that they are rubberized so you can screw them on and off without an oil filter wrench.
Buy the Fram and drive , I say........the number, I believe is PH 16, it will set you back less than $7.
http://www.oilfilterstudy.com/
Search for filters in bobistheoilguy's website. Just add the usual com.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v631/bigodave/FramPH8A.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v631/bigodave/PurolatorPureONEPL30001.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v631/bigodave/PurolatorPremiumPlusL30001.jpg
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
It's the crappiest I ever saw. A nightmare to use, potentially impossible to remove at the gas station. I put it in garbage yesterday after paying CAN$ 25 for it to my beloved dealer a couple of months ago. I got from the general hardware store (Canadian Tire) a perfect one for CAN$ 20.
Happy fueling !
Hey , you know what? Tell Bob the oil chimp this........If you change your oil EVERY 3,000 miles, you can use a paper coffee filter if you want to............Enough said on this subject........................... :mad:
So - agree to disagree.
Mine stalls more frequently in the rain/high humidity, and the problem usually only happens when the engine is cold. It just doesn't seem to hold idle or low revs. That also explains the stalling during turning and stopping that many others reported. I now only use "top tier" 91 octane gas, with moderately improved results.
I am sure it is the same size that would fit a 2005 Pac, but I am just looking for some confirmation. Any one happen to know? I've been looking for info for 3 days online and can't find out.
I did some research and they seemed to have the best price.
I also got a K&N for my 2006 Odyssey EX-L from them.
www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest1.htm
The filters in this test were tested for both flow and filtration. The pressure drop across a filter is a good indication of its ability to rob the engine of needed airflow and hence power. Obviously the air filter with the least pressure drop is the highest performing.
I too am a scientist and like the test, but have problems with it. I would never assume anything as in Obviously the air filter... The highest performing filter is the highest performing filter on a car. You would have to run performance tests of some type on different cars to make this statement.
The test goes on to say that the regular paper filters filter better. The question is "are the premium filters good enough". How good do you need? Again, this can only be tested on a car presumably by the rate of engine failure caused by particulate from the intake and no where else.
None of this is easy to do scientifically with stastical confidence.
After the dealer fixed a faulty check engine light on the 3rd try a new problem showed up. While driving the fuel gauge will shut off, causing the warning chime to sound. A few seconds later the gauge will work again, showing how gas is left. Sometimes it does it about 5 time in succession, other times it will be fine for a couple of weeks. Recently it is doing it every drive. Dealer charged $85 to tell it will cost $600 to replace the sending unit in the gas tank. Any others have similar problem. The cost of the fix seems high for a car less then two years old.
It's weird you have to pay US$85 for diagnostic. I always predicted that these extremely complex cars will cost a fortune to fix when they become old. In 16 years I never paid one penny for diagnostic, when fixing my 1989 Volvo 240 wagon.
Why ... why ... why ... they don't make them anymore ?!?
This is the first Pacifica I have owned, & I can't find anything in the owners manual ( unless I missed it) so what service needs performed? Do I need to take it to a mechanic to get the light to go out, or can I replace whatever needs replaced & the light will go out? I am moderately mechanically inclined & could do alot on my own.
Thanks for any feedback.
The dealer charged us $70.00 to perform a software upgrade.
that fixed the problem at approx 29000 miles.
Go for a second opinion with another dealer.
best of luck,
Norm E.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S