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Comments
Mine is an '05 F-XT (PP/auto), and is my first turbo car.
I'm fairly technically knowledgeable, but I wanted some feedback from others.
I've been using Mobil-1 since pretty much the time it was marketed for mass consumption, and I probably always will.
I have long believed in the principle of using 'lighter' oils for easier startup and better flow in plain bearings (crank, cams, etc.).
In the interest of any potential improvement in fuel economy, and concerns for maximum lubricity & cooling for the turbo itself, as well as freeing up a few ponies, I am considering using Mobil-1 0W/30 for the next change (5000 mile mark).
Has anyone heard of any specific or significant concerns about this oil for this car?
Anyone have personal experience with Mobil-1 0W/30 (in any car)?
I can pretty much guess Subaru's advice to toe the company line and recommend "only" 10W/30.
Thanks in advance.
And keep in mind this is coming from someone who has never paid the extra money for synthetic oil. Except for gear oil.
-juice
shows 5Wx30 Perhaps in hot wea. and
long hwy trips in the summer heat I may
go to a little more heavy viscosity..
Pleased with mine,
Deadeye sends
Juice, I remember you from the Honda CRV Forum from 2000, and you are very knowledgeable and give great answers. At work when I parked between a CRV & a RAV 4, the XT was not as tall as the other two. However no question on which Make was better!
Just kidding.
You can't please everyone, you think the Forester's too short, yet other complain it's top heavy and needs a tighter suspension to handle even better.
I find it a good compromise between fun and practical. I like small cars, so to me that was an advantage. Our Legacy is less fun mostly because it is bigger.
-juice
And Corkfish, the XT is no $24K SUV, my Sticker was $29K, share with the others here how they can obtain one for such a Deal?
Some of this is easily changed/fixed.
I still think the XT is far and away the best package out there if you want it all (performance. AWD, utility, safety, fun, bargain price, etc).
Just please please make mine reliable this time around, and I'll be happy.
JP
Actually prices have just come down. It's such a buyer's market now.
-juice
Thanks for the responses.
My question tho' was whether anyone had any personal experience or other info regarding 0W/30.
I guess I'll just go with it and see - Shouldn't be a problem, but I was just curious for feedback.
I guess I'll be the first to report on it!
I expect the next change to be due in about the next two weeks or so, so I'll give my feedback after using it for a while.
I'm kinda curious to see if it revs any quicker, or if the seat-of-the-pants-omometer notices any increased thrust, and any improvement in fuel mileage.
The way I drive I'm challenged to average 20 mpg through a tankful, so any improvement will be welcome!
ps - Miamixt - Sorry to hear of your disappointment with the FXT.
FWIW - I almost went with an Outback XT (red w/tan leather & sportshift auto trans), but the FXT is just so fun and tossable that the sheer grin factor helps me forgive it's foibles.
The Outback XT, while fast, felt a bit more reserved - The FXT feels like a full-scale RC car!
Best of luck with your new ride!
True, every engine could respond differently to the oil, but ever since then I've just stuck with synthetic oil in the same weight as recommended.
Brian
Please do not get offended, but it seems to me that you have driven your XT very aggressively, but I am not sure how rapid acceleration off the line is a problem. And now you decide to get a Hyundai? I'm not trying to be mean, but I am not sure that I am following the logic.
-juice
-juice
Just this morning (in moderate rain) I got stuffed by a Rav4 at the last moment as I was approaching a red light in the 'right turn only' lane. After cutting me off doing about 10mph, she slowly meandered up to the light, then liesurely drifted around the corner. Naturally, right when I (finally...) got to the light, the two lanes of cross traffic on my left had just started to move.
Not wanting to get stuck behind another thousand or so giant SUV's etc., just to go two blocks to make a left turn, I instinctively punched the throttle...
Having actually experienced the quick spool-up and sudden hit of power in a similar situation previously, I was somewhat ready for it.
Sure enough, after a moment of lag, the power came on 'now', with my wheels still turned fairly sharply to the right (but not full-lock). The FXT couldn't seem to decide whether it wanted to power-oversteer, or understeer towards the outside - Each end seemed to want to do it's own thing! (kind of a cool feeling in a way - it seemed completely confused!)
I just kept the front wheels pointed where I wanted to go and held the throttle steady where I had it (about 3/4's) and let the mechanicals figure out just what to do to cope with my demands from the helm.
Meanwhile all 4 tires were scrabbling for grip.
A bit of opposite lock as it drifted towards the deep drainage ditch in the median, and it recovered and pointed itself up the road pretty much in the direction that I originally intended.
Great fun when you're ready for it, but it can almost instantly get past the point of no return if you're not anticipating it.
Just something that FXT owners need to be aware of.
As far as the tires I agree - The O.E. Geolanders are decent for most folks, but not great for enthusiasts.
They're (from what I've been told) really light truck tires with a sporty looking tread.
I'll be changing to Conti ExtremeContacts in 225/60-16 as soon as my budget allows.
I do agree that it's nose-heavy, and it also handles with resolute understeer, because auto mfg's feel that most drivers are 'safer' with understeer than a propensity for oversteer.
I personally prefer to drive with the back end more than the front, so I also plan to do the STi rear swaybar mod asap to make the handling more neutral.
The car is setup for the 'average' driver - Clearly most of us here on this forum are probably more 'enthusiast' than 'average', but the fixes are pretty easy and relatively cheap.
Got any mods planned for the new car yet?? ;-)
FWIW - I also grew up driving RWD Detroit iron with big V8's; Usually rusted out old buckets with bald bias-plys and "iffy" drum brakes (in winter in New England...).
We built them to go fast in a straight line; "Brakes? Who needs 'em? They only slow you down!"...
The well-rounded performance and relative civility of these new cars is amazing!
And the potential for easy major-league horsepower was the stuff of dreams way back when.
* Thanks also to you, bkaiser1, and others for the oil feedback.
From the responses here & another forum, I think I'll just stick with 5W30 (Mobil-1); I used that in my '01 Leg GT for almost 60,000 miles with no problems, and in a much colder climate than where I live now.
It should be fine, and no possible warranty concerns.
The only thing that might help in these situations would be an electronic nanny like traction control, but in all honesty I think that traction control brings up its own set of problems, as an overly intrusive system can almost become dangerous in some instances, when the computer contradicts the will of the driver.
Fasten your seat belts.
-juice
Yes, no modifications for the Hyundai ever, but that New Car smell is great, whether it's a Volvo or a Yugo. Actually I've never smelled either, so just go along with me on that! And to see the Odometer with 9 Miles, breathtaking. Have you thought of using a Synth Blend? My Subaru mechanic insisted, and we used a Saab Turbo Oil blend . My selling Dealer who went out of Business 6 Months after they opened(Potamkin), refused to use the correct weight Oil or Filter, at first Dealers were using anything that would screw on, screw them.
Elissa
Just to add to the confusion....
Larry
Ok, me too. :-)
If you check out the product data sheets on Mobil1.com, you will see that the 0W30 is actually just a hair thicker at 100C than the 10W30!
-Dennis
Some of this is easily changed/fixed.
I still think the XT is far and away the best package out there if you want it all (performance. AWD, utility, safety, fun, bargain price, etc)."
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Completely agreed!
I think the FXT is a near perfect compromise of all of those things.
I love performance (I also own a hotrodded Yamaha R1), but need practicality for a child & dog (& all the trappings that go along with them!), camping, etc.
I think the suspension damping is a perfect compromise for it's mission; I think the tires are a perfect compromise for the majority of buyers, etc.
It's a true Jeckyl & Hyde car - Innocuous looking to the fuzz ("Who me? No way officer! This is just a harmless little Forester. - hehe!), but will rip the headlights out of most ego-mobiles, and it's also very civil and well-mannered when not pushing the envelope, and has impressive capabilities off road.
What more could one ask for?
Due to it's broad spectrum of capabilities, it does have certain trade-offs that drivers just need to be aware of and respectful of, for instance: If you're moving slowly, and have the front wheels turned sharply, be cautious with the right foot 'cuz you may very well get more than you (thought) you asked for, when you least expect it...
Like I said previously, great fun when that's what you want.
I certainly don't fault the car at all for that.
(I like it!)
Sportbikes are like that too.
All of the top bikes are absolutley fantastic performers, with no real faults. Each one is just a little different from the others, with different strengths and weaknesses.
I am very, very impressed and happy with my FXT.
It's perfect for me & my family.
I think Subaru got it 'almost' perfect.
I just want the full 300hp...
On the oil: Thanks all for all the feedback.
I've used Mobil-1 for many years in all of my vehicles.
Several bike motors were torn down and looked as new after many miles.
M1 5W/30 it shall be from now on.
Just to add to this statement. The 10W30 probably has fewer viscosity improvers and will likely shear less than the 0W30.
-Dennis
Get into car ('05 FXT) and attempt to start. Car turns over, won't start. Battery has enough juice to power accessories. Call Subaru Roadside Assistance. Car gets flatbedded to dealer; tow guy asks me to bring along spare set of keys. Car gets offloaded at dealer; tow guy gets into car with spare keys, starts car right up(!). Dealer performs diagnostics, determines car did not recognize my primary key and activated immobilizer. Keys get reprogrammed; car now starts with all keys. Off I go.
This wouldn't have been so bad had the tow guy gotten there in the hour Subaru Roadside Assistance estimated, rather than the 3.5 hours it actually took, effectively screwing the pooch as far as my day was concerned.
So I'm curious if anyone with immobilizer keys has had this problem yet (mods: maybe I'll cross-post to the WRX STi topic? Please don't hurt me if I do). Dealer said they'd had few reports but not enough to spot a trend. I'm still scratching my head as to why this may have happened. Back in the day when I worked as an R&D chemist I could've seen it; the huge magnets used in NMR spectroscopy routinely wiped out other magenetic devices like ATM cards, access badges etc. Live and learn, I guess.
Ed
I've been thinking that it might be something to do with my aftermarket security system.
In every case the car wouldn't turn over at first, but started up after waiting about 30 seconds. Did you happen to wait a minute and try again?
-Dennis
Could a store burglar alarm have been the culprit?
Bob
$3 at CVS for a Duracell.
-juice
Yes, in fact I also waited about 30 minutes and tried again.
Ed
if it totally shuts down ala Blackjax style, it might be a security malfunction - an intermittent one. The system does do self diagnosis and by-pass the malfunctioning mode(s); maybe why you could start later.
I've not encountered any problems with my security system to date, and that's just me guessing. The next time the instance occur and you're able to get the car started after waiting, let the Blackjax go through it's cycle. If it prompts [chirps] for your code input, then I'm probably off with my guess. But if Blackjax remains silent, then ya problem it's been by-passed.
-Dave
(1) Better conering?
(2) Better mpg?
(3) Better and smoother ride?
(4) Quieter, less road noise?
(5) Shorter Stopping distance?
(6) More fun to drive?
(7) Better traction on wet roads?
(8) Longer tire wear, since XT weight spread over wider tread?
Any others?
Thanks,
Don Luce
(since I plan to go to 225/60's myself)
1) Almost certainly Yes - Although the O.E. Geolanders perform surprisingly well, it seems fairly safe to assume that almost any decent tire, in a wider size that stock, will provide better overall cornering grip.
2) No - Most likely worse fuel mileage, due to wider tread & increased friction, as well as a slight aerodynamic penalty.
Probably not a huge difference - Expect perhaps 1-2 less mpg at most.
3) Depends on the tires - Sidewall height will be quite close to stock, but most people run a sportier tire in this situation, which will tend to ride a bit less 'smooth', but with better cornering and feedback.
I'd call it roughly a draw, but probably leaning towards the 'firmer' end of the spectrum.
This area really depends on the particular tire.
4) Again, depends on the tire.
A sportier tire will generally produce more road noise, but in this case it may again be a draw, as the O.E. Geolanders are fairly loud (to my ears).
A "Touring' tire will generally be quieter and ride a bit more comfortably, but probably no more grip than the stock pieces, which begs the question: "Why bother?".
Know what I mean?
5) Almost certainly Yes.
Just today I noted uncomfortably long stopping distances in rain with the Geo's, but acceptable in dry conditions.
I'd say shorter stopping would be a major benefit of wider rubber.
6) Almost certainly Yes.
Better cornering grip, better feedback & turn-in response, and shorter & more confidence inspiring braking all add up to 'More fun to drive'.
The assumption again would be sportier tires than the stock bits.
7) Depends on the tire, but generally Yes.
I think the O.E. tires are at best 'adequate' in wet conditions. I don't think it would be hard to improve in this regard with almost any decent 'sporty' tire.
8) Probably a draw - Assuming sportier/grippier rubber, which will generally wear faster, all else being the same, but it would be offset by less psi on the rubber contacting the road due to the increased area of contact.
However - You'll probably end up driving more aggressively as a result of all of the above improvements, so equal or a slight improvement in wear rates would likely be the best you could hope for.
Personally, I'll trade slightly increased wear for overall better performance and safety.
9) (No, you didn't ask...)
I happen to think that the 225/60's are more aesthetically pleasing - I just like to fill up the wheel-wells a bit more. Most O.E. tires look a bit undersized to my eye. The 225/60's just look more "stout", and more capable of serious work overall.
FWIW - After much research, and some experience with a number of different performance tires on a variety of different cars over the years, I'm planning to go with Continental ContiExtremeContacts.
I think they will be a really good match for the overall mission of the FXT, and well suited to my needs.
It is certainly possible to get more grip, but they seem to be a really good compromise of everything I need from a tire, and probably particularly well matched to the FXT, as far as capabilities and ride quality.
Frankly, this is the tire that I think should be spec'd as O.E. on the FXT.
My other choice, if leaning a bit more towards snow performance with year-round capability would be Nokian WR's, if my wallet was a bit thicker.
I used Nokian NRW's on my '01 Leg GT wagon for several years and they were absolutely outstanding in crummy weather.
Some opinions differ from above, but we both had the same conclusion - filling those wheel wells is the biggest pro.
Of course I've never had 215/60 to begin with, I had 15" rims on there before, and swapped them out. Lucien has owned both stock and 225/60, but the tires are so different it won't mean much.
-juice
-Dennis
runs 225/55/17's
It's getting a lot of city mileage, but I don't baby it and routinely shift at 3.5k or more (but will shift earlier if conditions warrant it).
I'm averaging 21mpg over 16 tankfuls so far, with the best (twice) at 23 (mostly highway miles on those tanks) and a low of 19. The low was on the last tank, which also is 'winter' fuel, so I typically see 1-2mpg less.
For comparison, my '00 Outback AT averaged 22mpg over it's lifetime, with a high of 28, several highway trips of 25-26, and a low of 17 (thanks again to winter fuel).
-Brian
I am planning to pick up a new XT PP some where on the East Coast in mid April, and then, slowly drive back to California. The big question, is what to do with the new Geolanders?
After all the bad reviews they have received on the Forums, do you think I could sell them for $20.00 each? I wonder if Sears would give me some credit for them against the new Falkins?
Thanks again for the great information!
Don Luce
-Brian
I swear I recall reading here that the FXT drinks up a lot of oil and also some other fluid during the first few months...what other fluid should I be keeping a particular eye on? I've been searching the forums for 2 hours and can't find the message. Would also love specifics regarding type/brand of oil and other fluid. I haven't done anything myself to my cars in the past. When should I get it changed for the first time? 3000 miles?
Also, I'm thinking the air filter (behind the glove box) would be a good idea as it's humid where we live and my last car started to smell musty. Can you get this at any auto parts store? And use regular tools to install it?
Has anyone found a good sunshield for the winshield to protect the leather and keep the interior from turning into an oven? Are the custom ones worth it or should I go to Walmart?
Thanks in advance!
I like the Geos and will probably bring my spare out front and buy 3 new ones. I would think they are worth at least double your price.
John
On my way to the mechanic, I had to drive around these wide, sweeping curves on the freeway. As always, I was frustrated by the understeer.
On my way home, there was no more understeer! The ride felt so much more secure.
I feel that the 20 mm bar makes the car safer than the stock one. If I ever have to swerve quickly to avoid something, I feel like the 20 mm bar will help keep the car under my control.
My next step is to get new tires, so I am happy to see the 2 recent posts about that.
I got the sway bar from allsubaru.com (they sell it along with the brackets and everything else you need). I got the endlinks and collars from PolTec (I *think* it's poltecusa.com), and was given a discount for buying a set of each. (but you have to ask for the discount!)
It took my mechanic about an hour and 15 minutes to do the installation for me.
Just wanted to add my voice to the many singing the praises of this modification.
-Frank
I have plenty of questions myself!
I have heard only good things about the ZE-512's, although I've never tried them.
I'm real curious what you think of the ride qualities compared to the stockers.
*Remember - New tires need to be seasoned, just like brake pads for instance.
They'll 'come in' and should work better after a few hundred good miles.
Let us all know how they work after you use them for a while.