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Comments
tool and they are about three that are close in size (viewing thru the plastic container) What is the size ?????
Tks. Deadeye
-Frank P.
Every wrench I own has an automatic torque-limiting feature...the 59-year-old arms applying the force.
With everything I've been reading about chipped and cracked Forester windshields, I'll be amazed if this impact didn't do anything.
Just about every vehicle I've owned has needed a new windshield at some point, just from pitting up so bad you can't see if nothing else.
Still on the original on mine, knock on wood.
My wife's 626 went through 2 of them, in her case I blame her following distances being shorter than mine, generally.
-juice
1. The amount of braking force that the hill holder applies (and which, if excessive, can require way too much throttle and clutch slip to get underway again) is directly proportional to how hard you were applying the brakes at the instant your wheels stopped turning - or at any time after that, before your next start. I've always been in the habit of feathering my brakes very lightly as I come to a stop, just to drive more smoothly, and that's fine. However, once stopped and with feet still on clutch and brakes, I might shift in my seat to a new position, pushing hard on the pedals in the process. That results in applying a lot more brake force, and the HH's check valve faithfully holds that much harder. I now avoid applying additional brake pressure, and the hill holder releases much more unobtrusively.
2. I've long been in the habit, once stopped at a light, of setting the handbrake and shifting to neutral until the light's about to change. Mainly, this was to avoid having to hold the clutch down the whole time, and maybe it saves a little wear on the clutch throwout bearing. It also releases the hill holder. Then, when the light changes, I shift back into gear, release the handbrake, and go - with no interference from the hill holder at all.
You might try one or both of these techniques; they might save the bother of disabling the HH.
All you need to do is hold the vehicle with your right heel (or toe depending on pedal placement) with your toe on the accelerator pedal at the same time - same right foot. Just prior to releasing the clutch you apply throttle with your toe as you release heel pressure on the brake by sliding your heel off & maintain pressure with your toe / foot on the throttle (clutch is being engaged during this process). This can be done quickly & effortlessly as a fluid motion with practice while prevent any roll-back (i.e. on a hill) & save clutch wear while being in neutral. To stop tranny laygear / input shaft movement & engage 1st or reverse easily from neutral, just lightly bump 2nd gear syncro (not fully engage 2nd).
Even driving an AT, I still angle right foot out of habit occasionally to touch the brake & throttle pedals at the same time.
'04 FXT AT
'00 Troop
ObXT: I'm sure glad the XT comes with climate air-conditioning. It sure has been getting a workout these last few days. :-)
rob. (it's been around 10 years since I experienced that white stuff)
Given that automatic-equipped cars have only two pedals, you can hold the car with your left foot on the brake as you apply throttle with the right, releasing the brake only when enough power is being applied to move the car forward. I don't understand how unwanted rollback could ever occur in an automatic-equipped vehicle, on even the steepest inclines. Granted, I right-foot-brake most of the time, but there's no reason why one can't left-foot brake in these situations.
Also, never had a clutch last less than 125,000 miles...go figure
I had a few fry in a lot less than that as a teenager, but that was a long time ago. Things have changed since then; mainly, I quit abusing cars. The clutch in the RX-7 I bought new in '79 was still in perfect working order (along with everything else on that wonderful car) when I reluctantly sold it at 200,000 miles - despite ten years of very spirited driving.
Drove a CR-V in an uplowed parking lot yesterday. Reactive systems stink! Rough to keep a smooth steady line turning when the real wheels kick in and out of providing power. Give me the 50/50 split of a Soobie manual anyday!
My Supra had 126,500 on the orig. clutch when we parted.
Ballistic: your brake force insight on hh sure appreciated...
Again, these Forester threads are extremely informative......
Saving my Naval Reserve pay for an X/XS/XT later this year........ez
If that was in reference to my RX-7 comment, media reports about the rotary engine's alleged lack of torque down low were greatly exaggerated. Mine pulled like a tractor right from idle. I used to drive the RX-7 in a lot of rush-hour traffic jams. When moderate acceleration was all that was needed, the rotary engine could be taken all the way down to idle speed in 3rd gear and pull away with no protest whatsoever - and carry on to the smoothest 7,000 RPM redline ever achieved. Truly remarkable car in every single respect. Wish I still had it.
No, the "secret" to long clutch life is to get a car underway with the smallest amount of throttle and slip necessary, and to then apply major power (when needed) only after the clutch is fully engaged. Same goes for upshifts. This technique won't win any drag races, but that hasn't been important to me since maybe 30 years ago.
I just ran across the following:
http://www.quakerstate.com/pages/promotions/warranty.asp
Granted, it's not as all-inclusive as a full-blown extended warranty, but quite possibly it might be at least slightly better than nothing. And it doesn't even require using the much-more-expensive synthetics - just use their brand. For those who intend to change oil at shorter intervals than the required 7,500 miles anyway, there wouldn't seem to be much to lose by registering for this and conforming to the few reasonable requirements.
As for staying power, this company has been around and well known for at least 60 years that I know of, and no doubt much longer. I wouldn't think they'd make commitments and then not respect them.
Comments?
Ken
You can register on line. All they want is VIN and mileage. I think the car has to have less than 36K miles on it.
Larry
I've typically (but not religiously) used Pennzoil, but Quaker State is a fine brand that I'd have no qualms about switching to if the fine print on their warranty appears to make it worth anything at all.
The only downside for me is that 4K change intervals are a bit shorter than I'd have used. The demands imposed on my cars can only be termed "light" compared to typical owners, and I probably would have changed at about 6K intervals. But that difference is no big deal unless I decide to go with the expensive synthetics.
And here I thought you were a bud. (-;
Does QS make a synthetic and if so, is it still a 4K change interval?
Ken
http://www.quakerstate.com/pages/products/motoroil.asp
If the exact same 4K change-interval requirement (to qualify for their warranty) applies to both their regular dino oils and to the costlier synthetics, that might make me wonder whether they really do believe that the synthetics are measurably better at prolonging engine life than the standard stuff...
And under those circumstances, I'd be much less interested in the synthetics...changing every 4K in a gently-driven car would be massive overkill. I won't pay synthetic prices unless they let me stretch the change interval to at least 6 or 7K.
http://www.quakerstate.com/pages/promotions/warranty.asp
it tells about the 10/250k warranty. If you look on the left side of that page there is a link to roadside assistance. You can get 120 days of free roadside assistance after every qualifying oil change at one of their centers. There is also a link to Shell gift card. When you buy a case of oil at participating locations you get a $5 or $10 gas card for Shell. So not only will you get the extra engine warranty but other goodies as well.
-Frank P.
-Dave
One needn't be cynical to reach that conclusion; that exact same suspicion is applicable (validly so) to each and every promotion that's ever been made by any company. Their reason for being, after all, is to sell more products, gain more market share, and earn more profit. Nothing sinister in that.
Informed consumers weigh the benefits of the promotion against the costs (including, in this case, changing oil oftener than one might otherwise - which is not necessarily a bad thing) and assess whether or not it makes sense in their circumstances.
From a preventative maintenance point of view, a shorter interval certainly won't hurt. The question is whether you gain any measurable benefit in contrast to the very measurable additional cost involved.
-Frank P.
Because the 4k interval is shorter than most manufacturer’s recommended 7,5k, a cynical individual could suspect Quaker State of creating this program in order to sell more motor oil ;-)
>>>
Well, this is interesting. In Canada, owner's manual calls for the oil/filter change every 6000 Km which is very close to 4K miles. And this 5000-6000 Km interval is what I have followed with all my vehicles before I even knew there was a Forester. From that prospective QS's isn't unreasonable.
Other question is why do SOA and SOC differ on this. After all, SOA and SOC are getting vehicles from the same source, use same oil and driving conditions are pretty much comparable.
K
-Frank P.
Interested Deadeye
Either it's a pretty elaborate information harvesting site(not unknown), or Quaker State uses very amateur web designers.
Just one man's opinion.....
BTW, mysubaru.com is not secure,either
Don't forget the Subaru chat tonight. Starts in about 3 hours. Link's on the left. And no stealth keystroke grabber program will be installed on your computer while you're chatting either!
Steve, Host
They do send you a certificate in the mail, along with a discount coupon for their synthetic oil.
Since I'm doing most of my own maintenance anyway, keeping the slips isn't a problem.
Their warranty also says it will pay the deductible portion of an extended warranty for a covered component. It seems gimmick free and Quaker State's been around for a long time. For free what can it hurt? The warranter is actually SOPUS products which I'm assuming is Quaker State's parent company.
Larry
BTW, the climb is a part of desolate military road and the rail in the middle was used as a support for long-range missile-plants. Thanks God, those times have gone away and we can drive vehicles on the road and test them in off-road ability free of charge.
Get silver or red. They're the most sportive and attractive, IMHO.
Speed Rating: S -- Warranty:
80,000 mile limited treadwear warranty"
[from Costco] when other vehicles had to stop to install chains.
What will happen with my XT with Geolanders on 80 in the snow ??
Had the OB's oil (driven by my wife) analyzed at 3,800 (GTX) and the results were very good as well.
IIRC, QS's synthetic is a Group III (like Syntec). Although after reading numerous used oil analysis' on bobistheoilguy, Subaru's do well on most any oil.
-Dennis
I certainly don't drive mine hard. I bought it to last at least 10 to 12 years, and I drive it accordingly.
Keep this in mind, while you are waiting for the "Experts" at Quaker State to deny your Claim, your Rental Car expense alone would be worth the cost of the Subaru "Gold" Contract
The pros and cons of expensive, ultra-high-profit extended warranties have been debated to death. They're right for some folks, not for others. I have zero interest in spending one to two thousand dollars on any extended warranty.
Although I'd rather Q.S. offered the alternative of using synthetic at maybe a 6,000 mile interval instead.