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The other issue is that the oil change interval is time AND mileage based. For as long as I can remember all owner's manuals have specified oil changes on an either/or basis - for example, 6 months or 7,500 miles. Since short drives are much harder on oil than long drives, it is very important to change oil at 6 months even if you only have 2,000 miles on the car since the last oil change. Given the average mileage of most Americans, and their universal disregard of the "time" component of oil changes, the "3,000 mile oil change" pushed by lube shops suddenly doesn't seem that far off the mark.
For the Jetta, the owner's manual specifies 12 mo. or 10,000 mi. after the first two. I plan to follow that schedule using VW approved synthetic oil.
IF you use Mobil 1 0-40, or Syntec 5-40, 10,000 mile oil changes "shouldn't" be a problem.
That having been said, I could never get myself to go beyond 5,000 miles even with full synthetic. Too many sludge stories out there - if even Toyota's sludge, what's going on?
A. Ensure any O-rings inside of the filter bowl are removed and replaced. This may call for a scribe.
B. The filter bowl is cleaned out good, as you really don't want any loose garbage in it.
C. The new filter element is properly seated inside the new bowl on the new O- ring.
D. Also, watch and see if there is an O-ring on the top side of the element that fits up into the filter housing.
E. Common sense rule: Lube all O-rings before assembly, especially the O-ring on the filter bowl threads. You don't want one to get pinched and spew oil.
F. Research the books for a torque on the bowl. Too important to ignore, as the setup on my VR6 was plastic!
If anyone successfully completes a DIY oil change, please post the procedure you followed. I'd really like to be able to do my own on the Jetta and save the dealer $$, if you know what I mean.
Have a great New Year everyone!
David
Try Nokian WR's. They are an all season tire but rated with the snowflake and mountain symbol to qualify as a snow tire.
www.nokiantires.com
I've not only read it - I've worked on these systems. I've been working on braking systems for over 25 years (starting with my military days) - and I've driven in just about any type of terrain and weather you can think of... I think I have a small idea of what I'm talking about.
As a matter of fact, I just upgraded the braking system on my 1997 Jetta since it doesn't have ABS or ESP like my other two vehicles (both 2003s) - with the following:
4 - cross-drilled & vented Zimmerman discs
Installed a new set of EBC "Green Stuff" high performance brake pads
Upgraded all brake lines to braided stainless steel (total of 6 lines)
Upgraded rear calipers to the aluminum calipers used on the 1998-2004 Jettas
Flushed braking system and replaced it with high-temp silicone brake fluid (silicone brake fluid should be used on non-ABS braking systems ONLY) .
Now this car stops on a dime (as a matter of fact, it is my favorite car to drive).
You may have lived it, but I have worked on these systems first hand and have a pretty good idea of what makes these things tick...
You just need to get under the car and look at it, and I'm sure after so many years of working on them, it will hit you right between the eyes.
Drain the bowl? If they have a valve for this on the bowl, I would go for it. Could be a much cleaner project then. The bowl will be full of oil and if any tipping is required to squirrel it out, that could get messy.
Call these people and verify you will not void your warranty. They seem to get protective over this stuff. I had a 2002 Jetta wagon that lost it's alternator right after the bumper-to-bumper went out. The crummy Valeo (made in France) alternator was the only one VW would put in. They quoted my close to 800 dollars on the phone for the job. I tracked down a Bosch for $250 and they wouldn't touch it. Then they threatened to void the Powertrain warranty if I put it on. I put it on, kept my mouth shut, and traded it in for my "ex-Passat wagon." Moral of the story? Just be careful with these people.
So you worked on them :confuse:
I am only saying the system works wonders, that's (ALL) I am saying not trying to pick a gun fight :shades:
I flew airplanes and worked on them for years_SO WHAT
Cool! :shades: What type of airplane? I was an aircraft mechanic in the Air Force working on C-141s, C-130s and C5s.
Are you still flying?
I believe that most new diesels, like VW, have a maintenance free particulate filter that removes the majority of the byproducts from diesels soot.
I think any new vehicle runs VERY clean. I remember a couple years ago I read an article that said you could run about 40 new 2003 accords and put out less pollution than running a 1985 accord.
For my driving style I think I would get better mileage out of a diesel than a hybrid the torque would be the winner for me.
I also read a comparison maybe and old C&D article, that compared the amount of CO2 that people put out compared to an automobile. It was surprisingly close when the distance was short under 10 miles a day.
My issue/problem was that I was driving around 15 mph (thank goodness) as I had just pulled out of a parking spot and had just started rolling forward. I depresed the brake pedal as I was near a stop sign and it felt as if there was a rock stuck between the break pad. Not sure if this is even possible. I kept stepping on the pedal and it was not depressing downward, it was grinding. I kept pushing as hard as I could and after a LONG 5 second period the brake pedal went down and the car stopped. It was a very unusual and scary sensation.
Please advise as to the details of the experience you have had or point me to whatever else you have read.
Thanks.
Pam
I don't know where you are posting from, is there any possibility that there was ice on the road, or perhaps a hint of new rain on oil slick? What you describe sounds similar to what it feels when ABS kicks in under low traction conditions. In that case, it did what it was supposed to do.
At any rate, have it checked out at the dealer. Good luck.
1-remove the underside plastic pan using a torx #25 tip.\
2-unscrew the "cap" at the bottom of the oil filter by hand. You will see an orange tip that you can attach a hose to in order to drain the oil from the cartridge. Push the cap gently in the upwards position and the oil should drain through the tip. Or do as I did and just loosten the cartridge enough to let the oil drain out the top when the seal is broken as you loosen the cartridge. You can use a small oil filter wrench and twist gently because the cartridge is hard plastic. After taking the cartridge off I discovered what the orange tip is for by inspecting the housing. However, if you drain the oil through the tip, "gently" pull it out with a small pair of pliers until it just pops to put it in the closed position. It moves ever so little so don't destroy it. The gasket (rubber seal) is tucked in and easily missed, but it does have a tab to pull it out. Make sure the new one is replaced with the tab outward just as you removed the old one. Lubricate the seal before installing it. After replacing the cartridge filter element, twist the cartridge on with an upwards motion and tighten it by hand until you feel it starting to seal. Then continue to tighten it by hand another 3/4 turn. It should be hard to turn at that point. MAKE SURE YOU SECURE THE CAP COVERING THE ORANGE TIP BY HAND AFTER INSTALLING THE CARTRIDGE! This SAFEGUARDS the tip against leakage or draining by accident.
3-remove the drain plug with a 19mm box-end wrench and drain the oil. The pan is metal as is the washer on the plug. Clean the plug, the washer doesn't need to be replaced. Do not over-tighten when installing.
4-Using 5w30 castrol synthetic oil (factory recommended), make sure it is labeled "VW" on the front. There are some additional additives in this oil. I paid $5 @qt. at the dealer. I also noted in the maintenance record book and saved the receipt for warranty purposes. I noticed it would only take 6 1/2 qts on fill up. I'll check it again. Do not overfill!
Lets hear from anybody if this helps. GOOD LUCK! Bob
1. Were you able to twist the plastic filter housing off by hand or did you need a wrench?
2. Did you have to get the filter from the dealer or is it available elsewhere? I've seen on auto parts websites that a "K and N HP 2005" model will fit, but it doesn't sound or look like it will really work.
3. I have been having a heck of a time finding Castrol 5W40 synthetic. I know the owners manual says that Synthetic 5W30 will work too, but everything I have read says thats not the case. Did the dealer say that Castrol 5W30 Synthetic is ok?
I would appreciate any ones advice on this. I was a bit confused about the filter situation as this is the first Volkswagen I have owned. Thanks again.
Sorry to hear about the scary incident. I tend to agree with allhorizon, it does sound like the abs kicking in. did it feel as if the pedal was rumbling underneath your foot? In any event, glad to hear you're fine and here is the link for that braking discussion.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2363456
2. I purchased the oil filter and the oil from the dealer so that I would get the right stuff. The auto parts I checked with didn't stock the filter.
3.The oil in the parts store was not VW specific. The VW castrol is clearly marked on the front of the container for "VW". The parts guy will tell you there is no difference but I compared the containers and there are some differences on the back of the container shown in the specs.
I have an 06 jetta tdi with DSG trans. Love the car so far, but am experiencing less mileage in the last 3 months. Started out getting about 900-1000 km/tank as advertised, now it is down to 800-900km. Cold starting runs rough, takes a long time to warm up. Have encountered hesitation occasionally, especially when cold. My last car. a volvo 850 turbo also got less mileage in winter months (Canadian winter ) but I don't know if diesels have the same response to cold. Any info would help.
Thanks,
Many thanks on your thorough description. I copied your instructions and will have them at the ready when it's time for the Jetta's oil change.
David
Personally I prefer the manual, but the DSG has a lot going for it too. It shifts so smoothly and quickly, I was impressed. It's hard to describe without driving one for yourself. The paddle shifters were fun. The 6 speed manual gearbox worked quite well too. The clutch felt good, I liked how it engaged, and it seems like it would be easy to drove it smoothly.
The motor was great. Plenty of get up and go with no turbo lag. Nice smooth power curve. Not too busy at highway speeds and it sounded sweet to me. You can hear it, but I didn't find it to be too intrusive. I liked the steering and brakes as well. Nice and tight. The ride is quite firm, but I didn't think it was harsh. There was a bit of wind noise at highway speed, but I don't think it would be a nuisance.
The seats were very supportive, although they are not powered like the ones on the regular 2.0. Perhaps more functional than luxurious. Fit and finish was good, and I liked the way the controls are laid out.
I really enjoyed my test drives. Anyone have any input for driving comfort for longer distances, reliability etc? I think I would be making up places to go just to be driving this car.
Car and Driver recently did a comparison test and the first thing they had problems with was the seats; the adjustments would take some getting used to. BTW, the GLI won first place. I might be interested in one if I can find one with cloth seats, but I have searched the VW website and there are very few made.
The Jetta 2.0 is available with the leather and 12 way power seat with memory. I haven't sat in one of these yet to see how they compare to the sport seats in the GLI.
Thanks guys.
So yes your dealer is talking about the DSG, which is an automatic for all intent and purposes.
M
You may also want to take a look at the 2.0TFSI engine (available both in the regular Jetta and in the GLI/GTI). Many owners have reported much better mileage (close to or better than advertised) than with the 2.5. Even if you don't need its performance, that may be a better engine to go with, depending on your driving style. Premium gas recommended, though.
The TDI is great if you drive a lot of miles - I wouldn't get it if you drive less than 15-20K miles a year, though. It does have a high resale value, but the real premium on the purchase price is significant (the other Jettas can be had close to invoice).
The tiptronic can also be shifted manually, but is an automatic transmission.
Especially in the US VW should refer to the DSG as an automatic transmission.
The DSG transmission and how it works should be known by all; one of VW’s/Audi’s great blunders.
They should take out Super Bowl commercial time to explain what this thing does and why it is so great. Perhaps they should get BMW’s marketing team to develop a memorable commercial (I’m still thinking about the angles on the wheels or the recent 3xi with the kids and the snow balls).
If BMW had this transmission on their 3 series it would somehow get on the evening news or discovery channel.
To me it is a manual transmission that lets me shift gears faster than any human possible. It gives me the ability to get better performance and mileage than a conventional manual and can be driven as a conventional automatic, smoother though, giving my wife’s knees a rest.
If VW/Audi doesn’t want to bother informing the public of all the break through work their engineers have come up with they should pick a layman’s name for their transmission such as “Super Transmission”, “Transmission Plus”, “Transmission 2.0” something.
Traditionally, automatic transmission is defined not only because by automatic shifts, but also by different torque transfer mechanism (torque converter vs. clutch in manual). ___tronics are automatics (in sense of both shitfing points and torque transfer) with function of manual "override" of shifting program. DSGs/SMGs were developed as "pedalless" manual transmissions (i.e. shifting entirely by user) with possible option of automatic control of shifting points, if desired. Since they actually have clutch (DSG has even two), they are not automatic transmissions when using that definition.
Can we call them "manual with optional autoshift" or something like that?
There is profound difference between one and the other.
2018 430i Gran Coupe
The new price for the DSG option on GTI/Jetta/GLIs is $1075.
VW refers to this as an automatic transmission, because it shifts automatically. Also, it replaces other automatic options like the tiptronic, conventional torque converter.
As others have pointed out, its principles are that of a manual transmission with two (wet) clutches that is shifted automatically, either without driver input, or through gear selection by the driver (sequential shifts).
Its main advantages are (i) extremely fast and smooth shifts, and (ii) no gas consumption penalty, because it does not contain a "slush box" that converts applied torque into heat.
Yes that is the meaning of the term "automatic transmission" the term does not mean "transmission that includes a torque converter"
I would say DSG is a new type of transmission that has both an automatic mode and a manual mode. Both modes are different from what we are familiar with as automatic and manual transmissions.
In the interest of US sales VW is wise to refer to it as an automatic. Those who are "enthusiasts" are going to know details as to what the DSG is and most of the rest are not interested in anything called a manual transmission.
It would make it easier to the masses when purchasing a car if they were just told it has a radio. The audiophiles will know that the XM is giving them satellite broadcasts. Do we really need to know frequencies that radio is being broadcast at?
I think not
Anybody purchasing at 20K+ automobile could benefit from a little education. In 30 seconds a salesman could explain what DSG is. The potential buyer can then make an informed decision if they want to compare the DSG to a 5speed automatic Honda tranny.
Edmunds calls it a 6-speed shiftable automatic transmission.
And VW calls it a 6 speed DSG automatic transmission with tiptronic at: http://www.vw.com/jetta/gli/gli_specs.html
Either of those seems like a better description than refering to it as a manual transmission. To me and I think most people, if it shifts automatically it is an automatic. You can add whatever adjectives you like or simply call it a DSG transmission, but calling a transmission that shifts automatically a "manual" does not make a whole lot of sense.