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Chrysler Sebring Convertible



  • I have a 2002 Limited. Sort of the same problem. If top is down for two days or more, it will go part way up, and then the motor cuts out. Have to flip switch to top down position and run for a second and then flip to raise top position. Works fine then. Dealer has replaced top motor and pump assembly, switch and one of the two hydraulic cylinders that raises the top. Still doing it, so I guess we'll replace the other cylinder.
  • I can't find that meesage either, but here's what I did: I called my friend who has always owned at least one convertible (and parks them in his front yard with the hoods up when he throws parties). He sent me to the auto parts store to get some epoxy or somesuch glue that says it is strong as hell and sticks to glass and vinyl. (There were a lot of choices). He just glued the window to the vinyl, probably just like they did at the factory. We stood around for a half hour or so, then I drove home. It stayed solid as a rock for over a year, even after I broke the window last week. (Doh!) The shards along the bottom are stuck on there for good.

  • Hey it's meanst1. New to the site. New proud owner of 2000 JXI as of 2 days. Top is in good shape but I did notice some seams tearing and the back window adhesive coming loose. Did you get a response on your question concerning care for the top? It's my first convertible and I want to take good care of it.

  • I just bought a (barely) used 2004 Limited Convertible. After reading the manual, I have a few questions, and I'm wondering if you folks can give me a hand with them...

    When I turn on the fog lights, should a light come up on the Dash? Mine doesn't, and there is no light in the bulb check for it either.

    Similar to the fog lights, there is no dash light for the Traction control. That really matters to me (canadian winters, in a snowbelt). Should I be seeing a light come on either when the traction control is engaged or disengaged or when it is activated? According to the slesman the light comes on when the traction control is turned off, but I can't get it to.

    Lastly, the salesman advised to treat all the rubber gaskets around the convertible top and around the windows and doors with a silicon lubricant, spray stuff to keep them water tight, but advised that I buy aftermarket rather than pay the Mopar prices for the same stuff. Does anyone have a brand name they recommend?

    Thanks for your help,
    Chris :P
  • I have a 98 Sebring Convertible and the same thing is happening. The stitching around the back window started to come loose. I planned on gluing it back but noticed it was starting in other areas as well. Now it is too much to just glue. It is also coming loose above the windows on both sides. Any suggestions - are there guys who will redo the stitching on convertibles?
  • Hi, posted to this forum before, seems people who own these cars are not really enthusiasts. I have a Dodge pickup, post to their forums with a problem, and get 1 dozen responses. Gonna try my problem again.
    Bought a used and babied 98 Limited, and love the car. It is used for back and forth to work since my Dodge Ram 2500 V10 is a bit of a gas hog (BIT????). Car has had no problems as I've seen here, and my only criticism is the poor headlights. :mad: These are like brand new, and I don't feel safe driving the car at night with them. Replaced the bulbs with Silverstars, to no effect. The car had a busted foglight, so I pulled them and replaced them with some 55w H-3s. Now, I run with the high beams on, and if it gets dark, I switch to foglights/low beams. Exact opposite of nthe way it should be. High beams don't light s%$#!! No one makes after market headlights either. Dealer says that's the nature of the beast. Otherwise, great car, 27 mpg highway running 75. Gotta understand, I'm a biker, so this is just a cage to drive when the weather is crap. But I would at least like to see the road more than 10 feet in front of me.
    OK sheeples, how about a response?????
  • acguy1acguy1 Posts: 1
    I have tried an epoxy from the auto parts store. It didnt hold at all.There were several different types of epoxy and I chose the one that specifically reads that it bonds glass and vinyl....I must be missing something,I probably picked one that bonds glass to glass or vinyl to vinyl.
    My question is ..Do you have the brand name of the adhesive which worked on the rear glass window and bonded it to the vinyl top?
  • update re: 2.7 engine that seized 04: Replaced by Jasper 2.7 -The Jasper 2.7 went as well barely a year later with 3,000 oil changes. I will NEVER buy Chrysler again, and putting a bumper sticker to that effect if I ever get my car back. I am now looking at Toyota Solara.
  • I have a 98 sebring and the heater only blows hot when i am driving the car. It blows cold when idleling? any suggestions?
  • Check the coolant level.
  • Last week I got that call from my daughter coming home from college,in her 96 sebring convertible. Daddy I was driving on the highway, suddenly my car jumped into low gear, the tac revved to 6000rpm engine smoked ,piston rod blew out from the bottom of the oil pan. Is this daddy's problem now ?
  • Feeling a little sloppy in the corners and rough
    road, time to replace shocks/struts.

    any recomendations? monroe sensamatics seem to
    be what I find as a match at most places.


  • karyl2karyl2 Posts: 2
    I can only speak for myself but this car has been a headache from the word go! :mad:
  • What octane should I use for a 96 JX convertible?
  • kaplan2kaplan2 Posts: 2
    1.I am looking for a copy of original warranty for 2000 Chrysler Sebring Convertible for research into after market warranty. I need to know what was covered to see if it makes sense to buy additional coverage which of course only covers those original items.
    2. My lower glass has separated from the conv. top in back. Interior and exterior. Have read all previous comments at this site. Does anyone know the name brand of adhesive that is most probably going to work?
  • frrussrefrrussre Posts: 41
    Is it possible to get 2 x 32" suitcases (10" to 12" high) in the empty trunk?
    Reg. Frank R.
  • I just bought a 96 model and went through this. There are two flasher units on your car. In my case, the one in the trunk (pass side wheelwell) turned out to be bad. Cost is about $40 at the dealership. You may have the same problem.
  • clyleclyle Posts: 1
    my 98 convertable seatbelts have locked up on both front seats, from what I can gather it's possibly related to a sensor, any quick fixes for this or is it a dealer (megabucks) problem.
  • dispencer1dispencer1 Posts: 489
    I have a 2000 Mustang V6 convertible as a "fun" car mainly for evening drives in the summer and Mustang car shows since it is super detailed with low mileage. Actually it is a terrible car -I would hate to have one as my only car. It is hard to get in and out of, it is noisy, and its plastic interior looks like it was snapped together. It IS a Mustang though so it is supported by Ford and enthusiast groups. I may want to dump the whole Mustang idea and get a more comfortable convertible. The Sebring seems more like a normal car. What year would be the best to get - i.e. when did major improvements happen between say 2000 and 2004? This would still be a fun car and wouldn't be a daily driver which is probably good considering the comments about problems on this Forum. CU really panned the Sebring in 2005 -shakes, poor ride, etc. This isn't agreed to by Edmunds in its road tests of the 2001 or any other tests I've read. How IS the ride? Looking forward to hearing from owners.
  • neonitisneonitis Posts: 11
    I have a 2005 Sebring Touring convertible with V6-2.7L motor with 28800 miles and has leather/suede seats,great cd/stereo. The vert works great and what a chick magnet!Oh the ride is nice allright.The cowling or dash unit shake due to nonrigidness of convertible when running over potholes, bumps.Where as the sedan has all that metal to brace everything better.The car runs smooth but with all the hoopla of "oil sludge damage" leading to catastrophic motor failure has got me so stressed out I don't know what to do.I'm changing oil every 3000 miles with synthetic and with K&N oil filter, but i get a bad feeling it may be a lost cause.There have been "numerous" cases of the so called "oil sludge motor failures" and Chrysler is not backing up the warranty even tho customers are "religiously" changing oil per service manual.I've added my name to the 3 class action lawsuits now pending in court against Chrysler.To read about all of the people all over the USA, and how their Sebrings would just quit on the road while running 50-60mph and find out the motor siezed due to "poor customer maintenance".I don't know dude, but i'd "seriously" be "not thinking of getting a Chrysler Sebring".All of a sudden that "Mustang plastics" is a minor blemish compared with the Sebring. Don't take my word for it, google the sebring, read "all" the news here and on several other forums.You "will" be surprised.I hope i answered your question.People will say "all cars" have problems and i will agree with them.I have had several cars in my 50 years of life and have done my share of work on them.But they haven't read all there is that has been happening to these Chrysler cars.It seems it could be the Quality Control of the motors as they are being made, in that the aluminum chafe, or flakes are not purged from the motor as it goes down the assemby line, so when as a finished product you put oil in, the aluminum flakes get washed into the oil, then transferred thru out the motor bearings, etc. causing the seizure.But for Chrysler not to back their products is outright criminal fraud.Good luck to us Chrysler Sebring owners!!!
  • dispencer1dispencer1 Posts: 489
    Thanks a lot for the info. I've read over the forums on the Sebring and you are right. The reliability record is still pretty bad. Chrysler is famous (like Toyota) for blaming the customer for what was a manufacturing defect. Either that or they come back with the "can't find problem" or "that's normal". I think frankly I'll keep what I have until I can afford one of the 2005/6 Mustang models in a few years which are totally different than mine. I'll cool it for awhile. Thanks again and good kuck. Make sure you change oil at a Chrysler dealership so they have a computer record of the oil changes. This is the only way people get new engines at Toyota I understand.
  • neonitisneonitis Posts: 11
    You're welcome sir.It is pathetic how Chrysler shysters have devastated so many innocent lives.
    Actually Toyota wants "proof of oil changes" to qualify for motor replacement reimbursement in this excerpt:Toyota's new policy is a dramatic change from a so-called Special Policy Adjustment begun in February. Amid increasing criticism for refusing to deal with the problem, Toyota notified 3.3 million owners of the affected engines that sludge-related repairs would be covered for one year, as long as they proved the oil had been changed at least once in the previous year.
    i got from:
  • engr2go1engr2go1 Posts: 10
    I purchased my car new and have had several small and mid sized problems with it. It has 38,000 miles on it. I love the look and ride. The transmission shifts pretty bad though, lots of klunks. Other problems:
    Engine light turned out to be a problem with the seat belt (warranty on two occassions)
    Engine light turned out to be a problem with the gas tank vacuum line (warranty)
    Rear window defogger does not work. When you put the top down, the wire breaks. Mechanic says it is a poor design, when they fix it it breaks. I gave up.
    Electric windows make screeching sound.
    Door hinges klunk badly.
    Speakers died early and had to be replaced.
    Snaps that hold the back of the top down are coming out of their holders.
    It leaks oil from around the oil pan gasket. It looks like Chrysler uses a liquid gasket compound rather than a real gasket. It doesn't appear as though it was applied correctly.
    The unlock button popped out of the key remote.
    The airbag light comes on intermittently.
    The front brake rotors are warped (I have not used the brakes in a manner that would have caused this).

    I am surprised as my other car is a 98 Grand Caravan with 184,000 miles and I have had very few problems with it. Overall, I still like driving the Sebring but feel Chrysler quality is just not there anymore though the styling is great. In the future I will likely try a Toyota. What has happened to Chrysler???
  • I don't know if this will help you but..My JXI ragtop flooded last year when I first bought it. I had to clean the drains under the rocker panels. the car was still soaked and the amp for the sound sys was in a puddle under the passenger seat so I took out the seat. When the car was dry (much later) I replaced the seat. I typically drive alone to work so I didn't notice until several months later that the seat belt was locked. After trying everything except logic I looked under the seat and saw a plug hanging down from the seat. Further probing revealed a plug nest to the amplifier. Throwing caution to the winds I attached the plugs and immediately the problem was solved. After much cogitation I think (guess) that if the seat were somehow to come free from the car in a catastrophic accident you would remain strapped into the seat. I suppose this would make corpse recovery simpler for the highway patrol.
    Good luck.
  • matune1matune1 Posts: 3
    We've had a popping noise in the front end of our 2001 LXi for several months. The dealer replaced the left strut once - but that didn't solve the problem. The car must be 'warmed up' for us to hear it, maybe after 5 miles or so. Then, at almost any speed, it just keeps on popping - kind of like the popping you'd hear from a microwave popcorn bag - toward the end of the cooking time. It's not at the same time interval - such as every five seconds, or at the rotation of an engine or suspension part. Like I said, reminds us of the non-regular popping sound you'd hear at the end of the popcorn cooking time - but the last kernel never pops. It just keeps on going - like the Ever Ready Bunny.

    Surely, we're not the only Sebring owner to ever have this happen. The dealer says he has had other Sebrings do this, but replacing the strut fixed the problem.
  • mcrtr505mcrtr505 Posts: 1
    Hello All I am new to the Site. I have a 97 JXI and the Timing Belt failed due to the water pump siezing up. I need some help with re-timing the engine. The Right hand Cam Gear does not seem to come in to time off about 1 inch from the mark no matter how many times i turn it around. Can Anyone HELP or direct me to a forum that might HELP
    Thanks :cry:
  • kenitzerkenitzer Posts: 19
    I have had my 2004 Sebring Touring for 2 years now and have accumulated 42000 trouble free miles. The only service done to date is oil/filter changes (every 4000 miles with Pennzoil Synthetic), air filter changes (2) and replacement of the 2 front tires due to wear. Otherwise I just put gas in (average approx 24 mpg) and drive. I still put the top down whenever the weather permits and enjoy the open air. I just wanted to post this because forums like this are typically filled with posts from people trying to solve problems with their vehicles. Potential buyers need to hear the positive stories as well.
  • engr2go1engr2go1 Posts: 10
    Add to this that popping noise. I think it might be the one discussed earlier. It seems to come and go though. More of a klunking though. I will climb underneath and take a look. Let you know when I know.

    PS: Glad to hear from the earlier post he is having no problems. I wish I could say the same. :lemon:
  • bharveybharvey Posts: 2
    I have the same noise in my 2000 Sebring convertible. I was told by a dealer that they are known for sway bar bushings going bad and making that type of noise.
  • bharveybharvey Posts: 2
    I own a 2000 JX and had the same problem. I took it to a upholstery shop and he told me to use super glue. I did it last weekend and it worked great!
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