I was the original owner of a 2001 Sebring Convertible. Changed oil regularly according to specs. In 2005 engine seized with 90,000 miles. Chrysler gave me nothing other than scrap value. Will never buy another Chrysler product.
I have a sebring convertable and the signals and wipers will not work. I put in a new switch and didnt work. I dont know what else to try. any one have any ideas. Thanks, Sue
You really need a trouble light or voltmeter to trouble shoot this one. If voltage is getting to the WW motor and the ground connection is good, the motor is probably bad. If there is no voltage at the motor, the electronics or wiring is faulty. If you don't I have anything to measure voltage, try dis-connecting the wiring to the motor and connecting battary voltage through a fuse then directly to the WW motor. I assume that the washer fluid is topped off and squirting and that everything on the same fuse is working. Isaac
I've been looking at convertibles and love the look of the Sebring.... However...I've not heard positive things about them and there does seem to be a lot of used ones for sale online here where I live? If you could reconsider your purchase, would you buy one again. If so, why not?
I wouldn't hesitate to buy one again. I love mine and everyone who has been in mine seems to love it. Most, maybe all, of the Sebring convertible owners that I have talked to love their cars, I would recommend one especially if you can get a slightly used one.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
I love mine too but it's a 98 - I like the style and interior much better than the newer ones. I probably shouldn't say this (bad luck!) but the only problems I've ever had with it were age-related (headlight plexiglas got so I could barely see at night and had to replace the whole headlights at BIG expense (ugh); have had to replace the rear view mirror twice (got fogged up) and they're not easy to find; needs a new top (canvas is great but the stitching rotted out)) - but maintenance probs have been practically non-existent. I only wish I had the model where I could use the "green" fuel. I'll drive it till it dies! :shades:
I bought a 2007 PT Cruiser convertible at the end of May. The car only had 5500 miles. I really enjoy this car. You can probably find an 06 to 08 model with low mileage for $12 to 14k or less. Good luck.
Yes I would recommend the Sebring. I really enjoy driving it more than any other car I have ever owned. It is not the most comfortable (used caddy I once owned) or the most practical (mini van) or the best get up and go (300C) but I really enjoy the feel of the road and the wind in my hair.
I have a 08, limited, with the new clearwater blue color, and hardtop, and love the car. When I compared to the volvo C70 and others, it was hands down the best value (I got it for 28K with close to a 39K sticker, so the value was great. Yes, it is a little cheaper as far as materials go, but I take great care of my cars, so it is working great. Grat mileage. Got about 28 mpg on a couple recent trips, and overall, always around 20 in city stop and go. It uses mid grade gas, and have not even attempted regular. Mileage is getting better with age. I have 14k on it now. Only have had one problem. When I bought it, about 2 weeks into ownership, battery went dead. Took to dealer, and they replaced the battery, and no problem since. Transmission is a little loose during stop and go, but they say it operating fine.
It is a beautiful car, and for the price, its is the best value out there, plenty of front and rear room, and the trunk space, to up or down is really huge for a convertable. Get the Navigation with the U Connect. Great for hands free phone calls. This bluetooth should be standard in every car.
I say YES. Probably can get a great deal, with end of year coming, probably will see many discounts and rebates.
believe it or not, I found a rear right light on E-bay. The guy also just charged me, 60 dollars for the whole thing, My hubby put it in, and voila. It was fine. (and very inexpensive.)
I am considering buying a 1999 Sebring Convertible JXI with all the goodies. The price is excellent based on Kelly. My two questions: Did the car come with a convertible "boot" to cover the top when down? I do not see any place to attach one but I am surprised it does not have one. 2nd, even thou the price is right, and it has never seen a winter, it has 145,000 miles on it. Am I asking for trouble or could there be lots of life left? Thanks!
I've got a 98 that I bought in 2000 and I still love it. Came with a boot that has little tabs that slide into the back seat and some snaps (I think) around the sides. I don't use it because it's big and bulky (and heavy), plus the tabs don't stay in too well. I only have 80K miles - 145K sounds like a lot, but (knock on wood) I have had very few maintenance problems with it (just stuff wearing out like brakes, battery, headlights (EXPENSIVE), rear view mirror (EXPENSIVE - but you can find on eBay if you keep an eye out).
I have an 08 with the small v6 and appox 32,000k a few months back it needed the water topped up. I than had a oil change so if the car needed water I'm sure they would have. Well I took it on a trip and it ran out of water and I mean ran out of water. I took it in to the dealership .They pressure tested it and couldn't find a leak. Can anyone shed some light on it for me ? Thanks. Also when it rains with the door opened it drips into the car sometimes onto the seat cushions.The dealership has replaced the rubbers but it didn't help much.Anyone else?
The overheating thing i have not had happen to me (2006 sebring conv.touring, V6 with 52k) and the rain dripping in on the seat with car door open, yes that happens on mine. I have some headaches with my car, and they are minor ones. Like the passenger side of convertible leaks onto seat with top down and doors closed. It's not much but still a pain. The Air Bag light and chime come on sometimes after car start and remain on. (but not the chime) Everything still works in it fine.
I have a 2002 and do not have that problem. There are different items that can cause this problem. First, a bad pressure cap. The cap is removed when the system is pressure checked and the measurement device takes its place. The other common problems are usually on high mileage vehicles: intake hose collapsing, theromostat sticking, or head gasket leaking. Did you burp the system when you topped it off? It is still in warranty so keep taking it to the dealership. They will have to fix it by the third trip or replace the vehicle under the lemon law.
I can't help you on the coolant issue, but for water dripping in when you have the door open when it rains it's something you will have to learn to live with. When water rolls off the roof towards the side of the car there is really nothing on a convertible (soft top) to channel it away from the window. Most hard top cars have some sort of gutter system to prevent this but its hard to do on a soft top convertible. So you will have this problem if you have the door open or window down and its raining hard out.
FWIW changing the rubbers or seals wouldn't help if the car doesn't leak if the window is closed.
Enjoy the ride its a great car.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
Along the same lines, I bought a 1996 Sebring with 120k miles on it, and it runs great and looks great, too. It was a steal at $1200 because it had some cosmetic interior issues, but so far I haven't had a single problem with it. You just have to be careful and try to find an honest guy (boy that's hard).
In August of 2008 I bought a 2006 Chrysler Sebring convertible with an extended warranty until 80k miles. Its been craziness since then... I have had it in the garage for transmission service 7 times and it needs to go back but I've given up on trying to get it fixes -- its a complete waste of time. About a month ago, a filed suit under the lemon law in PA. I have a feeling though that I am going to get offered a settlement of a lot less than what I owe on it considering Chrysler's financial status and the economy. Has anyone experienced this? Any luck on getting a fair offer? Any luck with counter offering?
I just want to move on from this car, it has be h*ll but I can't afford to buy a second car while still owning this one.
I shut off my car to go into a convenience store and it wouldn't start up. Replaced the fuel pump but that didn't resolve the problem.... Any suggestions....I am getting spark and the engine cranks over strong.???
Just bought this car for my Daughter and have had the following done with no results. (paid $1500.00, but put $695.00 on sales slip to help with sales tax, got boned)
Replaced plugs, rotor, dist. cap., wires Checked out misfire Cyl 5, codes PO300 & PO305 found. Leak down test (Good) for Cyl.5 Compression Test 172 Replace lower and upper intake Gaskets Swap Injector & Spark Plug 5 & 6 No Change.
I also had to replace the Cat. Converter because it was broken up inside, the guy at the Garage said that could have been from the injector at 5 shooting to much gas and overheating the Cat. Garage said the computer seems as if it was replace at some time because there is a sticker on it that says it has to be programed and New cars do not have these stickers. He suspects a wire could be the problem but says it could take days to find it. I'm already into this thing for $1200.00 (parts & labor) on the of the $1500.00 I paid. Any help would be appreciated. :sick:
have same problem and recently found out that there are cables under the seat and activate seatbelt.(not exactly sure why this is necessary) so make sure the cable/wires are connected, maybe they are loose or disconnected. hope this helps.
I had three people look at it, the last guy told me it was more than likely a wire that had been chaffed and is rubbing or shorting somewhere. He suggested a Chrysler Dealer cause they know should know more about the car and places where that could happen. So the Dealer suggested a new Computer, after running up a $450 dollar bill, the car has all ready had a new computer put in it, we can tell this cause it has a Must be Programmed Tag. Bottom line is if a Chrysler Dealer can't fix it who can???
We own a 2008 Sebring Convertible, and whenever my wife drives it in the rain it will stall, 30,45,55 mph, it doesn't matter, it just cuts out. It has a 4 cylinder, automatic. I'm getting no love from the dealership about this. :mad: Any suggestions?
I have a 2007 Sebring Sedan, 2.4L - 4 Cyl, stumbling during acceleration when raining. The Sebring's computer is not posting any error code (or Check Engine Light). The first Chrysler dealer inspecting the car recommended a new throttle body; part replaced but did not solve the problem. After this, I replaced the MAP sensor; did not correct the problem. A few days ago, I took it to the third dealership where a new set of spark plugs was recommended and installed. However, this morning it rained a lot around here and the car began missing/stumbling again. I am heading back to the dealer. :sick:
I have an 2003 Sebring, when I cross a bridge or an overpass it jumps (like it is out of gas or the transmission is going out) and the engine light comes on....anyone else having this problem?
I had a similar problem. When I accelerated hard, I had the bucking sensation you described. When the problem got worse, it even happened on low acceleration on level ground. The problem was the camshaft position sensor. There should be an error code saved in the computer. Go to an auto parts store store that will read it for free. I had difficulty finding the part so I just took it to the dealer to replace. There was nothing in the Haynes manual on replacing the device. If you have a mechanic you trust, you might give him a try. If you are handy with tools, you might try a Chilton's repair book or one of those online services. I think Checker had the part. Look on line before driving around. Good luck :shades:
Anyone know what is the thing in the "box" between the rearview mirror and the handle of the roof? I started hearing this rattle comming from there, so I opened it up and it looks like some sort of magnet or something... it stopped making the rattle for a few days and now its back.
i have the same problem with 1996 sebring,i was told it was two problems causing this,the first is the M.A.P sensor and the other was my catalytic converter was bad and causing my engine to misfire and stall out in the middle of traffic,mostly after coming to a stop. so try these and if all else fails go to autozone and get a free diagnostics reading,thats how i got my answer,because the damn dirty dealership refused to fix the recall,also note that the diagnostics reading says it was a factory defect and chrysler still refused to fix it. and also check if there are any recalls on your car. hope this helps
my sebring 2002lxi top goes half way(almost) and stops...If I let it go back down and wait and try again..it slowly goes up all the way.....any answers?
Sorry that it took me so long to share the solution to this case.
Problem gone after the fuel pump assembly was replaced. Please, note that no computer code or check engine light came on at any moment while the vehicle had this problem; the fuel pump pressure was perfectly correct as verified by the dealer service dept.
Along with the new fuel pump, two other fuel tank related parts were replaced as recommended by the dealership service manager and a repair tech: a valve and a plastic lines assembly. These two additional components were related to the fuel EVAP recovery system at the fuel tank.
The $700.00 plus repair investment (parts and labor) was done "at risk" since there was no check engine light present as previously stated.
Additional details: Sebring 2007, Base Model, 4 Dr, 2.4L, Approx. Mileage at the time of this repair: 63 - 64K miles.
Other parts unnecessarily replaced prior to the final solution:
There is a thread elsewhere that addresses this point. I have the same problem with my 2002 sebring convertable. You have air in the Hydrolic system. I disassembled my system an burped and topped off the system and it worked great. It didn't take long to come back. If I leave the top down for a few days, the problem comes back. If I leave it up for a few weeks, it goes away. The problem is a leak in the system. There is a lift, hose, fitting or the pump that has developed a leak. Since I live in the dessert, I am waiting for cooler weather, ambition and money to start replacing parts. Good luck.
I'm considering purchasing a 2000 Sebring JXi convertible. Price at dealer is $3900, mileage is 124,000. Is there anything I should be aware of as far as common issues with this model? It's a good looking car, but I can't afford to get stuck with a money pit. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
I have a 98 that I've had since 2000 and I love it. Remarkably little maintenance (KNOCK ON WOOD) except "normal" stuff like battery, tires, brakes, etc. until sort of lately (but I just went over 100K mi). Unfortunately late repairs mostly on the $1K level - back side window quit and it needed both a new motor and something else ($800); headlights (they get translucent and then are like $300 each (!!)); rear view mirror (have had to replace twice but got on eBay)... Now I need a new top (but I notice most folks around me with canvas tops don't have same problem - rotted out thread (NOT the canvas)). But bottom line is I will drive it until it's not fixable - I love the lines, the convertible, the back seat you can put real adults in, big trunk, reliability (see above wood comment). If you want to know more, send me your email address. PS $3900 is a steal, if it's in good shape - get a mechanic to check it out and maybe CarFax for wrecks, ask owner (and look in his eyes).
The best thing to do is to remove then reinstall the panel. Typically the panel is removed to fix a window motor or something and reinstalled incorrectly. It's fairly easy if you know where all the screws are. There are several resources that describe how to remove this panel.
I have a 1998 Sebring, 2.5L, V6 and I can not get a reading or a response from the OBD on the code reader. I was told that it was a fuse but I have checked all of the fuses that I can find. Can anyone help me?
I took my 1998 Chrysler Sebring Convertible JXI, to the dealer for a diagnostic (as no one else could tell me what was really wrong with it). Well, $300, in testing later, I was told that the problem was with the PCV Module.
I am paying $1,130 for tests, module, and oil change. The dealer recently called me and said that the module was now doing fine, they re-tested and said I now need a new distributor. They stated that was the problem all along, they basically said that the distributor messed up my PVC Module and that is why they could not find the problem when I first got the diagnostic.
Now, it is going to cost me $1,640. Is what they are telling me actually true? Am I just being ripped off? I do not have money to burn and this was very upsetting for me. Should I believe them? Please advise. Thank you. Kim
Comments
http://www.lawyersandsettlements.com/case/2_7_litre.html
THANKYOU
I've been looking at convertibles and love the look of the Sebring....
However...I've not heard positive things about them and there does seem to be a lot of used ones for sale online here where I live? If you could reconsider your purchase, would you buy one again. If so, why not?
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
I have a 08, limited, with the new clearwater blue color, and hardtop, and love the car. When I compared to the volvo C70 and others, it was hands down the best value (I got it for 28K with close to a 39K sticker, so the value was great. Yes, it is a little cheaper as far as materials go, but I take great care of my cars, so it is working great. Grat mileage. Got about 28 mpg on a couple recent trips, and overall, always around 20 in city stop and go. It uses mid grade gas, and have not even attempted regular. Mileage is getting better with age. I have 14k on it now.
Only have had one problem. When I bought it, about 2 weeks into ownership, battery went dead. Took to dealer, and they replaced the battery, and no problem since. Transmission is a little loose during stop and go, but they say it operating fine.
It is a beautiful car, and for the price, its is the best value out there, plenty of front and rear room, and the trunk space, to up or down is really huge for a convertable. Get the Navigation with the U Connect. Great for hands free phone calls. This bluetooth should be standard in every car.
I say YES. Probably can get a great deal, with end of year coming, probably will see many discounts and rebates.
GO FOR IT
Well I took it on a trip and it ran out of water and I mean ran out of water.
I took it in to the dealership .They pressure tested it and couldn't find a leak.
Can anyone shed some light on it for me ? Thanks.
Also when it rains with the door opened it drips into the car sometimes onto the seat cushions.The dealership has replaced the rubbers but it didn't help much.Anyone else?
The other common problems are usually on high mileage vehicles: intake hose collapsing, theromostat sticking, or head gasket leaking.
Did you burp the system when you topped it off?
It is still in warranty so keep taking it to the dealership. They will have to fix it by the third trip or replace the vehicle under the lemon law.
FWIW changing the rubbers or seals wouldn't help if the car doesn't leak if the window is closed.
Enjoy the ride its a great car.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
In August of 2008 I bought a 2006 Chrysler Sebring convertible with an extended warranty until 80k miles. Its been craziness since then... I have had it in the garage for transmission service 7 times and it needs to go back but I've given up on trying to get it fixes -- its a complete waste of time. About a month ago, a filed suit under the lemon law in PA. I have a feeling though that I am going to get offered a settlement of a lot less than what I owe on it considering Chrysler's financial status and the economy. Has anyone experienced this? Any luck on getting a fair offer? Any luck with counter offering?
I just want to move on from this car, it has be h*ll but I can't afford to buy a second car while still owning this one.
Replaced the fuel pump but that didn't resolve the problem....
Any suggestions....I am getting spark and the engine cranks over strong.???
6 Cyl. 2.5L
119000 mi.
Just bought this car for my Daughter and have had the following done with no results. (paid $1500.00, but put $695.00 on sales slip to help with sales tax, got boned)
Replaced plugs, rotor, dist. cap., wires
Checked out misfire Cyl 5, codes PO300 & PO305 found.
Leak down test (Good) for Cyl.5
Compression Test 172
Replace lower and upper intake Gaskets
Swap Injector & Spark Plug 5 & 6 No Change.
I also had to replace the Cat. Converter because it was broken up inside, the guy at the Garage said that could have been from the injector at 5 shooting to much gas and overheating the Cat.
Garage said the computer seems as if it was replace at some time because there is a sticker on it that says it has to be programed and New cars do not have these stickers.
He suspects a wire could be the problem but says it could take days to find it. I'm already into this thing for $1200.00 (parts & labor) on the of the $1500.00 I paid.
Any help would be appreciated. :sick:
:sick: :lemon:
Any suggestions?
Any ideas?
i am in Norway but i think better to order from us,,,
pl tell me if osme now..
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
Problem gone after the fuel pump assembly was replaced. Please, note that no computer code or check engine light came on at any moment while the vehicle had this problem; the fuel pump pressure was perfectly correct as verified by the dealer service dept.
Along with the new fuel pump, two other fuel tank related parts were replaced as recommended by the dealership service manager and a repair tech: a valve and a plastic lines assembly. These two additional components were related to the fuel EVAP recovery system at the fuel tank.
The $700.00 plus repair investment (parts and labor) was done "at risk" since there was no check engine light present as previously stated.
Additional details: Sebring 2007, Base Model, 4 Dr, 2.4L, Approx. Mileage at the time of this repair: 63 - 64K miles.
Other parts unnecessarily replaced prior to the final solution:
MAP Sensor
Throttle body assembly
Thanks.
It's fairly easy if you know where all the screws are. There are several resources that describe how to remove this panel.
I am paying $1,130 for tests, module, and oil change. The dealer recently called me and said that the module was now doing fine, they re-tested and said I now need a new distributor. They stated that was the problem all along, they basically said that the distributor messed up my PVC Module and that is why they could not find the problem when I first got the diagnostic.
Now, it is going to cost me $1,640. Is what they are telling me actually true? Am I just being ripped off? I do not have money to burn and this was very upsetting for me. Should I believe them? Please advise. Thank you.
Kim