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Comments
Other Subaru financing available if you qualified for the 2.9% one.
3.9% for 72 months
1.9% for 36 months
RAV4 was tempting with zero % financing but they only had one AWD so I could not get any good deal.
As far as CRV (AWD) the local dealer wanted full sticker - so I walked out.
I bought 2010 Forester XT Premium package - that is all that was available in my neck of the woods. I have had a 2005 Forester (non-turbo) so I wanted a bit more power for those high altitude drives in the Rockies and Smokies. I gave that Subie to my son.
Just returned from a 2000 mile trip to/from the Smokies and all worked fine. I like the manual/sport shifting option on the AT - great for braking on long down hills. Good that I've read the handbook to see how that actually works! Then, after a little practice, I use it now all the time both, for passing and for braking by down shifting to 3rd or 2nd gear that stays in.
The only negative is the premium high octane fuel requirement (because of the Turbo).
Also, the mileage wasn't that great - got an average 20.1 on that trip!
Got an exact weight of my Forester (on a truck scale) - 4950 lbs - with 2 adults, 2 kids, 4 bicycles and Yakima storage box fully loaded on top.
Happy motoring!
I sat down with the dreaded finance person at my local DE dealer on Saturday. They were not that bad, but one fast one they tried to pull on me was to include a $199 theft protection program (from Safe Guard Products). It was only an opt out program (I only signed to cancel it) and I feel if I did not say anything they would have included it in my payment. They said this was included on all their cars and
you have the option to cancel it (which I did).
Then they tried to sell me their version of the Extended Warranty (which you can use at any dealer), but I was only interested in the Subaru Gold one so that is what I inquired about. Whether it was because I was a pain (or my screaming 3 y/o son), the finance lady said that she could beat Mastria's numbers because they were still making $350 at cost (as Subaru is giving a $350 rebate in August to dealers for every contract they sell). She also showed me the cost sheet, and these are the numbers I remembered for my Edmund's Forum friends. These are the prices you should demand in August as they are still making $350 at this price. I think a dealer has to live, so I am ok with paying cost (vs. below this). I chose the 6/80K for $810.
Gold Plan - $0 deductible. Dealers are getting a $350 rebate regardless of the price they sell at in August. This rebate changes from $50-$500 each month, so
August is a good month to negotiate one of these.
6/80K - retails $1,620 - Dealer cost is $810 - Mastria = $1,049
6/100K - retails $2,224 - Dealer cost is $1,112
7/70K - retails $1,620 - Dealer cost is $810
7/100K - retails for $2522 - Dealer cost is $1,261 - Mastria = $1,495
Finally they tried to sell me a maintenance plan that covers all oil changes, the 15K and 30K service for $806. I priced this service at $973 if I go to the same Subaru dealer. They did say I get a $500 rebate from Subaru towards any future cars, so this seems like a good deal. ANY THOUGHTS??
Regardless of these issues, I still got the car, and I have had a weekend to play with my new 2010 Forester 2.5 Special Edition. I have the non turbo version so it is not nearly as quick as my VW Jetta Tubro, but since I am using this car mostly for transporting a 3 y/o and a 1 y/o, I didn't really need the XT. I got 23 mpg from a mix of city and hwy driving so far. I really like the avg. mpg indicator so I can see what habits increase or decrease mpg. It definitely causes me to keep my speed under 70 mpg on the interstate, which is a good thing anyway. The engine is whisper quiet (almost like a hybrid) and I am happy with my purchase.
Depending on whether you do some/all of your own maintenance, I would absolutely pass on the $806 service contract. If you have no plans to uproot in the future and will do none of that work yourself, it could work to your advantage. I have about 16,000 miles on my 11-month-old 2010 Forester now and it has seen a dealer only for recall/warranty issues (ECU re-flash for PZEV and interior door rattles).
I agree with you on the engine - it is very quiet and is plenty powerful for kid-hauling.
Too early to tell at this point, but our last tank of fuel, which was right after installing a K&N air filter (oiled & reusable), was showing about 2 mpg better on the readout than our average tanks prior to that one (it shows 29.4 versus 27.4 normally during this time of year w/ local driving). I'm not sure if the air filter is making an impact by allowing the engine to breath easier, but it sure wouldn't hurt my feelings if it were (even though that is NOT why I purchased the filter!). My wife had 377.4 miles on the tank when I washed the car last night, and it looked as though the low fuel light should come on in the next 20 miles or so (about 1/8 tank left).
Can you give me the model # of the K&N filter you bought.
I'm just curious did you get it with the money back guarantee at the end of the contract period? that would be GREAT deal then - still a great deal though.
TIA.
I have used K&N for a long time but after that article/test report I have stopped using K&N filters alltogether.
Alternatively, if you've paid in full for the extended guarantee plan there is no "money back" guarantee...
Per Subaru dealer and as per an emiil from Subaru North America that I have received, when I was inquiring about it.
Not sure what is considered "broken in" mileage on Subaru ... - on my 2009 VW Tdi they say the car is broken in at 10,000 miles or more... only then you start getting a better MPG.
As indicated earlier, I would stay away from K&N oiled air filters.
The K&N number is 33-2304; I think mine was about $47, but you'll also need to get filter oil for it and, at some point, some cleaning fluid (another $12 for both - but they will last for several cleaning/charging cycles). My stock filter had 15,000 miles on it and seemed quite dirty - I definitely recommend you check/clean your filter (regardless of what you use) more frequently than the 30K factory schedule as it will help the car breathe easier!
The OP had 200 miles IIRC so I'd wait until at least 1000 miles before making any conclusions about its fuel efficiency.
They told me flat out that I could get the warranty later but they might not be able to offer it at cost later since they were only getting this $350 rebate in August (seems pretty honest to me). They told me this rebate is something new this year and it has varied from $50 to $500 ($350 in August) and it is likely a regional thing. It also might disappear anytime.
The prices I have been given are the dealer cost figures (at least the book that she took out and showed me). If you would like to get these prices, contact Nicole at Matt Slap Subaru Finance and tell her Craig referred you. This is only for August guaranteed and I believe the car has to be within about 1 month old or less. The way these extended warranties work, they actually do get more expensive as you get closer to the 3/36K numbers (at least the aftermarket ones do).
Subaru Gold Plan $0 deductible. No sales tax in DE.
7/70K = $810
6/80K = $810
6/100K = $1,112
7/100K = $1,261
Regards,
Craig
As far as the money back, I have been told the following:
The warranty is transferable at a cost of $35.00. You can also cancel it if your car is a total loss. Subaru does not have a money back program, just good pricing from the beginning.
Regards,
Craig
The K&N number is 33-2304; I think mine was about $47, but you'll also need to get filter oil for it and, at some point, some cleaning fluid (another $12 for both - but they will last for several cleaning/charging cycles).
Subaru Added Security Plans
7,500 interval
3/36,000 - My quote = $750 (no tax in DE)
3/45,000 - My price = $880 (no tax in DE)
I bought my extended warranty for $835 + NY tax so about $898 - which was way lower than anyone elses without tax, except the guy in New Mexico who wasn't charging tax. Your deal is much better but I just sent back the papers so I will keep it besides my car is over 4 months old now, I don't see why that should be relevant but all dealers have their reasons. If I would have seen this last week I would have called my guy. The money back guarantee must be a dealership deal to get you to buy it. I would assume that somewhere along the line you might need it or the dealership will make it so you will use it to keep their money. Of course, if you didn't buy it from them there is no benefit for them to do this. they may not even know you own it unless you mention it.
thanks for the information.
To pay extra $ 750 for maintenance warranty is, in my opinion, waste of money.
You are basically just paying for oil and filter changes. At 7500 periods that would mean that you are paying $ 750 for 4 oil and filter changes.
If you buy any Synthetic 5W30 oil and Subaru genuine oil filters it would cost you appx $ 30 each = x 4 = $ 120 total
I have just done my first oil/filter service. Paid $ 20.00 for Mobil 1 synthetic 5W30 oil and bought a genuine Subrau oil filter from the website.
I have also installed Fumoto quick oil drain plug...that eliminates the need to unscrew oil drain plug and replace the washer each and every time that you are changing oil.
Keep all receipts in case there is a warranty issue and keep meticulous maintenance records on Subaru website at "my Subaru maintenance record" that is available on Subaru North America website, after you sign up at that website.
If you add cost of changing air filters and cabin filters your total cost for this "maintenance" during 36K miles would not exceed $ 200.00
Therefore, the dealer makes extra $ 550.00 on your so called "maintenance service contract".
Someone out there, correct me if I am wrong...
Here's the breakdown:
At my dealership
15K and 45K are the same services ( breakdown below) - today $389
30K and 60K are the same services - today at $629
Oil changes are $44 each and I have the every other oil change is free.
So if the prices reamin the same for my service in the next 3 years I am looking at $1018 w/o the oil changes - so I think the quote from delaware should be good at 7500 mile interval. I might reach the 30K in 3 years - if not 3.5 years. again depends on how they decide when your service is due at the 30K miles or the 3 years, it may be worth it. Olden days they gave coupons, now they don't.
Anyone have ideas? If I could be sure to get the 30K included I would go with Delaware dealership maintenace plan.
In addition, the 15K and 30K intervals include some inspections (no cost aside from time) that, again, can be performed by the owner if you know what the signs of premature failure of belts, hoses, boots, and fluids looks like. The inspections usually do not take more than, say, 15-20 minutes and are strictly a means of detecting problems early on. If you neglect those inspections and then have a CV boot fail, destroy the joint, and now the car requires a new axle... good luck getting it covered under warranty! The argument then becomes "if you had inspected it as required, the problem would have been detected in time to prevent damage to the axle assembly." A less drastic example might be loss of an accessory belt that requires the services of a tow truck at 17,000 miles (15K inspection would likely have detected abnormal wear on the now-broken belt).
My.Subaru is a great resource; in addition to owner-made entries, all work (warranty, recall, maintenance, etc) done at a dealer is also uploaded.
Dealers always tack on additional "services" that are beyond the Subaru-required maintenance. To compare apples-to-apples, you might consider asking the dealership what they charge for just the services listed in the manufacturer maintenance schedule.
In my 40-some years experience with various service departments I do not trust them - therefore I do my own oil changes as well as inspections and minor repairs. Even under warranty, I have them order replacement part (give them back faulty part) and install part myself. They can generate internal Work Order and charge back factory for parts and labor. However, not all dealers allow you to do so.
To me, working on my cars (not as a profession - just as a hobby) is a sort of relaxation.
Some examples (and I am not talking just about Subaru) - when they remove under body plastic covers, not always all fasteners are replaced.
Or, when they claim they had to top off some fluids (and charge you for it), they rarely do so. I once put a small scotch tape on one of the reservoirs in the engine bay and when they charged me to top off that fluid I confronted them and asked them how do they do it without removing the cap...
For some reason anytime I take any of my cars to the dealer for service there is always something either missing, not done or improperly done. Especially with imports - most service bay mechanics rarely go to factory sponsored training seminars (dealers tend to send their service managers instead) - so, guys with minimum wages, work on your cars. Sorry to be so pesimistic but that is my own past experience.
It's a jungle out there!
I do my own inspections.... I just wanted to inform folks that if they do their own maintenance, periodic inspection is good practice.
It is also important that if you buy used Subaru that you notify Subaru North America as a new owner so that they put you in their database in case of recalls and such.
I would think that during those first 3 years you should have it serviced once or twice, even if you do your own oil/filter exchanges yourself. That is what I plan to do anyway.
And definitely right just before 36 K I would have it serviced.
Federal law was changed few years back that you do not have to go to the dealer to have routine maintenance done and therefore the factory warranty would still be good as long as you keep all receipts and record of all maintenance. If you do it yourself, keep receipts for oil purchased and use genuine Subaru oil filters (available from many sources online) in order to avoid possible denial of warranty repairs.
With oil changes, if you do not want to do it yourself, you can buy a genuine Subaru oil filter at the dealer and go to any quick lube place, give them the oil filter and have them use Synthetic oil - that way you can have the oil/filter change done for appx 50 - which is still way lower than going to the dealer.
As far as spark plugs, I usually replace stock NGK with Iridium plugs. In my case (Forester XT) NGK Iridium IX LFR6AIX-11 (P/N 6619) - I think the car comes with NGK SILFR6A (P/N 7913) as OEM. Iridium plugs are, in my opinion, the best.
I have done it on my 2005 Forester (that I gave to my son) way back in 2005 and at 50 K they look as new. There are other Iridium plugs out there but I've decided to use NGK because that is what Subaru OEM uses.
When you change spark plugs make sure you use the anti-freeze grease on plug's thread (a silverish looking grease in a tube - available at any auto parts store). The subsequent removal later makes it easier to unscrew. I also use it (grease) on all wheel lugs/bolts immediately after purchasing any new car. If you have a flat on the road it's easy to remove those lugs as they tend to "freeze" and they would be hard to remove, using standard lug wrench that is in the car.
Happy motoring!
For someone that is not mechanically inclined and given the $500 cash credit, what do you think?
I will probably just stick with my local mechanic as I trust them more. They won't go and add something if it doesn't need it.
I am just trying to hedge my costs by just prepaying the service so price increases won't be an issue..of course they can do as VW said 'oh, you need to replace this or that' which is where they would get me, I am not mechanically inclined nor know anyone who is, to refute the claim.
Still on the fence about the maintenance plan, the car gets its first oil change tomorrow assuming it isn't backed up for hours..supposed to be free if bought through them which I did. We'll see.
However, dealers love to do warranty repairs because they can charge it back to the factory and they do not have to hassle with customers about the costs.
Bottom line is that if you can buy your own oil (factory recommended) and OEM oil filter you can have the maintenance oil changes done by any quick lube place or yourself.
Has anyone installed the double platinum spark plugs immediately after purchasing the car, as I would expect these to get better gas mileage. Since this is not done according the maintenance schedule (i.e. change every 30K with regular spark plugs), how do I know if this will void the warranty.
As a matter of fact, if you read 2010 Subaru owner's manual, under certain conditions (short drives, extreme high climate environment) oil changes should be done more frequently than recommened. Same with oil, instead of using 5W30 a thicker viscosity oil is recommended. I use 20W40 here in Florida (page 11-12 in owner's manual) in Summer.
Likewise, on page 11-3, owner's manual clearly spells out that oil changes can be done by yourself and not necessarily by a certified technician.
In 2010 Subaru Maintenance and Warranty booklet (page 6) under "Your Warranty Maintenance Responsibilities" it is clearly specified that "other service facility" can be used for maintenance as long as all service records are kept. No ASE certification is mentioned whatsoever.
As spark plugs, the "recommended" plugs are listed. Naturally, manufacturers do not put better than adequate spark plugs in order to keep production costs down. In Subaru case, NGK is recommended brand and as long as NGK endorses usage in that speicifc model, the usage will not void the warranty.
If you still in doubt, shoot an email to Subaru North America Technical Support and get it in writings.
My son works for Toyota HQ Tehnical Center in Torrance, Calif. (previously also in Honda HQ Technical Center next door) so I know some of these things a bit better than an average person would. There is a lot of fine legal work done with all that goes into these owners manuals by manufacturers' technical writers.
Also, by working for a number of years for SAAB R&D (research and development) in Trollhattan, Sweden I am familiar with various technical issues that manufacturers have including warranties.
Some manufacturers now have more rigid and specific procedures (e.g. Honda) whereas Dealer has to contact their regional center to have just about any warranty issue approved over certain amount of money. But even that can be challenged by contacting Honda directly. They are more than willing to make exceptions to keep their loyal customers happy.
All in all, if a warranty issue comes up and the Dealer declines warranty, there are several steps that owner can make to have the warranty done - last being an independent arbitration process that decides if and what is covered by factory warranty. The arbitration board is generally on owner's side if you ever reach that stage.
Case and point (example), if you are over 3 years 36 k and you have had an issue with certain component within warranty period, that component is still covered by the basis warranty even if you already have more than 36 K on your car.
Last but not least, it is not my intention to disseminate incorrect information. The above covers what is standard in the automotive industry. If you are in doubt, you can always send an email to any manufacturer's technical center and get it in writings. The dealer may not always answer your warranty issue correctly. Many of them (for simplicity reasons) rather decline warranty than verify the validity. It is not up to them to decide, what's covered and what is not and they frequently have to contact their regional centers for clarifications.
Happy motoring!
With my Subaru Forester (non turbo), I plan to get Mobil 1 5W-30, get the oil filter online and take to my local mechanic for the labor (not the dealer this time though).
I use heavier viscosity Mobil 1 in my Forester XT (from WalMart) because of constant short drives and high temps here in FL.
I always order Subaru OEM filter (and any other parts) from "subarupartsforyou.com" they are located in CT, I think. They always have wholesale prices on all parts that they sell plus excellent, pompt and quick UPS deliveries.
Fenkell Automotive Services
http://www.fenkell.com/
I assume if there are places in your state that have this type of plan, they may also have the 0W-40 available, which makes it a bargain.
I put about 10K per year in hot, humid FL climate so I have been using a thicker viscosity 10W40 or even 20W40 in summer and switch back to 5W30 in winter (we do get some freezing temps here sometimes).
Commerce, MI - All Tire & Service Center
Franklin, MI - Franklin Auto Service
Mt. Clemens, MI - Evola Service
Farmington, MI - Darrell's Firestone
Warren, MI - Ode Tire & Service Center
Mt. Clemens, MI - Evola Service
Oxford, MI - Fix'N Go Auto Center
Warren, MI - Fenkell Automotive Service, LTD
Roseville, MI - Warren Auto & Tire Service
Madison Heights, MI - Madison Heights Tire & Auto
Auburn Hills, MI - Fenkell Automotive Service, LTD
Walled Lake, MI - Meineke' Car Care Center
Newark, DE - Fenkell Automotive Service, LTD
It also seems to be transferable to your next car??? Too bad not in NY.
but then again I've only lived in Calif. (35 years) NY (5 years) and FL (7 years).
They must be buying that oil in barrels indeed and have very small profit margins unless, of course, they always find someting else wrong with your car and then they charge you extra for it...