Good point about not letting the buyer imagine body damage as the reason it is so cheap. The vehicle is actually less than 4 years old - I bought it at year end (like 3 years and 7 months ago). The mileage IS all highway - I have a 150 mile per day commute and about once a month visit family 300 miles away - so that's an easy explanation.
Another question is about timing. I've been trying to decide whether to sell it now and live with one vehicle for a few months or keep driving it until I'm ready to buy something else toward the end of the summer. Would the extra mileage I would be putting on it during that time make much of a difference in what I can get for it, considering how many miles are on it now?
My gut reaction is to sell it sooner, rather than later, but the vehicle we're keeping gets significantly less mpg and isn't the best commuter type vehicle.
Well if you keep your truck until the end of the summer you'll put another 15-20k miles on it bringing the total to 170-175k miles.
The difference in the price that you will be able to get for your truck will be marginal. So I suggest that you go ahead and use the truck.
A bigger expense may be that your truck will need something repaired before you sell it. However if it runs good now I suggest that you use it.
It's probably better to put the miles on the high mileage truck rather than the new vehicle. High miles on a newer vehicle kill the resale value.
For what it's worth, I have an 85 Corvette with 242k miles on it that I drive on the weekends and it still runs great. I have also stumbled across several very high mileage cars, like a Nissan 240Z with 750k miles on it(Do you think he got his moneys worth?). Maybe you can get another 200k out of your truck if you treat it right. And then when the engine goes just pop a rebuilt in and go for another 200k. At some stage though they get to be more troublesome than you are willing to deal with and you will just want something more reliable. Some people have a higher tolerance for maintaining and dealing with car issues than others. So - That's a question that only you can answer.
Were can I look into get a rebuilt engine to replace the high mileage one? I current have a '94 Toyota Paseo that won't pass emmissions and wonder if it's worth the $$$ to try and fix and keep another year or two. Thanks
a rebuilt on that car is probably prohiitavely expensive, since the car isn't worth much even with a good motor. You might be able to get a cost-effective solution by getting a used motor (from a wreck) which much lower miles.
Before you swap in another engine make sure that it's the engine that is the smog problem. Sometimes some of the sensors, fuel injection/carb, and smog equipment fail causing poor emissions. Find a good mechanic that knows what they are doing to advise you. They can also advise you on costs for the various engine swaps for your car.
I'd ballpark the cost of installing a good used Japanese engine in your car at around $1000-$1800. If you want a QUALITY rebuilt engine then figure around $1500 - $2500. A new factory crate engine will set you back a few grand installed. So If your car isn't worth that much it may not be worth it. Check your local penny-saver/recycler/greensheet paper for ads about auto work. There should be something about used or rebuilt engine swaps. In my area there are people who make a business out of swapping engines into cars.
For what it's worth there are lots of high quality used Japanese engines available. In Japan, due to smog rules, everyone must swap in a new engine at 50,000 (miles or km ??) someone buys up these used engines with plenty of life left and ships them over here for applications like yours. I know of several people who have had very good luck with these used engines. Many of the used engines come with a warranty like 12k miles or something like that.
It goes without saying though that used engines will never be as good as a new factory engine.
If you can keep the old heap running for a year (or three) longer then it may very well be worthwhile to consider a used engine swap.
The only reason I want to sell the Taco is that it has really uncomfortable seats and I spend far too many hours in a day sitting in it to put up with it any more. Otherwise it has been very reliable and gets good gas mileage. When I bought it I had planned on keeping it for about as long as the Nissan Hardbody it replaced (11 years and 290,000 miles).
Hopefully I won't make the same mistake twice and I won't care about the resale value.
Thank you both for the responses. I didn't think it would be worthwhile to have a rebuilt engine put in. I had the catalytic converter put in last year, and an O2 sensor the year before. It's burning about a quart of oil every 2-3,000 miles.
I also put alot of miles on my Toyota. My Paseo also has some of the most uncomfortable seat. It's ok for a commuter car, but you don't want to be driving in those seats longer than an hour or so.
A quart of oil every 2-3000 miles may be high for your car but for some cars (like a Saturn) thats normal everyday occurance (even a new Saturn).
Before you decide that your car is no good make sure that the car actually IS burning oil. Sometimes the car just develops an oil leak that needs to be replenished. And oil leaks are either tolerable or relatively easy to fix. Sometimes with an oil leak like a valve cover leak for example, the oil will just drip onto the top of the engine and evaporate. In this case you won't even see any oil on the ground.
The only way to know for sure if the engine needs to be rebuilt is to do a compression check. A good mechanic can help you out here.
If you are just tired of the car because the seats are uncomfortable - well that's another story altogether.
Curious you mention that regarding the oil leak. I've checked several different times under the car for oil drops/leak but seen nothing. If I could get it fix for $500 or under, I'd sink the money into it just to keep it another year.
isellhondas,
holy cow batman!!!! a quart every 1000 miles? Actually, I think I'm heading that way. Last year or so, my car started to need a quart of oil between 3,000 mile oil changes but only on occassionally. Then definitely between every 3k oil change. Recently it looks like every 2k it needs a quart of oil. I would think that pretty soon it would it would need a quart of oil every 1k.
Thank you both for the advice. I'll look into it with my mechanic.
The most famous smokers are the 3.0 liter V6 Mitubishi motors in Chrysler verhicles, mostly Caravans. The fix is to go to heavier oil; 20W50 or some such, and if you live in a cold climate, use Mobil 1 so it's still viscous when it's cold. Expensive oil, but loads cheaper than a ring job. Reason I mention the Mistu: Friend of mine went this route, and the smoking went down by a huge factor. This is just looking at the tail pipe; no emissions tests here in MI. Try it, the cost is low enough to just do it on a "what if" basis. Please report back. -Mathias
actually, I'm probably just going buy another used car. Looking at 98/99 Prizm or Escort. Needs to have 4 speed automatic, tilt steer, a/c, and depowered airbags. Want it for 5K OTD. I'm going to teach my wife how to drive on it. She's only 4'10" and will need these features on "her" car. Most everything else such as color, p/w, p/l etc. isn't necessary. Should also serves me as a good commmuter car until she learns to drive.
Just wanted to give everyone and update. I bought a '99 Chevy Prism and will try to sell the Paseo myself. Thanks to everyone who responded. You were all very helpful.
Figure it would be a good starter car for my wife to learn to drive. Of course, having your husband try to teach his wife to drive might be a recipe for divorce court lol
The Prizm only had 60K on it, came w/ 4 speed auto, ac, am/fm/casette that I got for $4800 out the door. So I was happy with my purchase.
What is surprising me, is the quick response I've gotten so far in trying to sell my Toyota Paseo w/ 222k miles on it. Asking price is $500, but willing to sell it for $350. Had two people already expressing intrest in less than a 24hr time peroid. Don't want to spend the $$$ fixing it or paying for emission/inspection, plus insuring three car is a little steep.
...always be a mark for a $500 car that actually runs. Doesn't matter what it is or what kind of shape it's in otherwise, as long as it runs okay. Make it a minivan, too, and it's doubly desirable.
I'm not surprised that you have people interested. I sold an 11 year old Nissan hardbody pickup with a bad tranny (engine OK), 290,000 miles on it for $990. I couldn't believe the number of calls I got for it! I sold it the first night for cash and the guy towed it away the next day (it was a 30 mile tow - I live out in the boonies).
I've ended up deciding to keep the Taco for another couple of years. I bought a back support and it's made the seats bearable, so that took away the reason I wanted to dump it.
Thanks all for the suggestions about the ad - I'll remember them in a couple of years when I finally do sell it.
Heck, I thought $500 was kinda high asking price for my '94 Paseo w/ 222,500 miles. It will probably need a new windshield and burning a quart of oil every 2k miles or so. Told the buyer this and droped the price for $350 cash and car sold "as is". Heck I've even thrown in two new summer tires I bought last year--have in the trunk along with two new wheel covers I bought for replacing the cracked ones in previous years.
...of a car like that is that you don't care what happens to it. If you've invested less than $500, then it could die in a couple of months and you wouldn't have lost much.
At least in Philly, there is a huge market for "disposable" cars, since lots of people drive without insurance (or valid registrations I think). If the car gets towed, or something expensive breaks, they buy a new one. Even if you do register and insurance it, a cheap car can make a real good around town station car, and HS student wheels (at least in the old days it did).
Sold the Paseo within 24 hours of putting up the "For Sale" sign. Put sign on it in on Monday evening. Tuesday evening, guy says he'll take it We went out Wednesday evening to due the transfer. First $350 takes it as is.
I know lots of cars that use more than a quart of oil every 2k miles that are a lot newer than that. The windshield? Ditto, no big deal. My last 'disposable' was an '87 Accord DX stick, no air, no radio, I bought for $500, kept it a few months (WITH insurance, thank you), then it died and the city towed it away. Kinda toying with the idea of picking up another cheapo, but I so rarely am without a vehicle at my disposal that it seems silly to do so. Still, if I had access that Paseo, I think I'd have snapped it up just for the heck of it!
Well I can't say I didn't get my money's worth out of the Paseo. 10 years old w/ 223k miles on it. Very economical to run and maintain. Upgraded to 5 year old Prizm. Needed another economical commuter car that is reliable and to teach my wife to drive on. Besides, the Explorer is getting expensive to run with gas prices hitting $2/ga.
A 96 was the first non-beater car I bought (in 99), and it is still driven by my SIL, with 140k. She replaced the belts and is thinking of taking it to 200k.
The 02 manual Prizm that I drive daily just had a bad valve cover replaced under warranty - disappointing, but I hope things won't be breaking much on it at least in the first 2-3 years out of warranty.
I have a 2002 Civic in excellent condition. I love it, but right now I only use it to drive to work so it's kind of a waste to pay what I'm paying for something I barely use. I'd like to find something used, around $5000. From the research I've done the estimated trade-in value is around $10,000. What happens to the difference?
Here's the best way to handle it, if you can: Find out what the Civic is worth. To that end, go to Real-World Trade-In Values, read 50 or so posts so you understand whats's going on, then post a great description and you will get a very good idea what it's worth. Then clean it ups, better yet have it detailed, and offer it to two or three dealers in your area, straight-up, not as a trade-in. Tell them you want a price that's good for 5-10 days. The dealer where you bought it from is a good place to start.. they will give you a realistic figure that might be a little light. But now you know your rock bottom.
Then figure out if it's worth to go through with this. Whatever your best offer was so far, you can count on getting $1k more if you sell yourself, and maybe do a little better than that. Civics are easy to sell. Is it worth to trade down, pay taxes again, and wind up with an older car?
If it is, scare up some short-term cash -- credit card, bank of Dad, HELOC, whatever. Pay off the Civic, get title in hand. Go get the new car -- a 2001 Prizm would be a great place to start.
As soon as you're ready to cut the Civic loose, put a great ad in the biggest paper in your area and get ready to sell your car. Make it easy on the buyer and you'll do much better than if you have to monkey around with liens and title transfers etc.
My guess is that you will conclude you're better off keeping the Civic, but that is your call.
I've now sold 3 cars myself (saving thousands over what I would have received by trading in). In each case it was a different type of ad that made the sale. First was a 90 Civic that I posted an ad on work bulletin board. Sold it to a co-worker just before I was about to give up and trade it in. Second was a 93 Pathfinder that I also advertised at work, but sold it to a relative of a neighbor who knew we were selling. Third was a 98 G Caravan that was also advertised at work, and on Autotrader.com. Ended up selling to someone who saw it at Wal-mart with a sign in the window. I've never used a newspaper ad. What method has been most successful for you?
I have my car listed on autotrader.com and just got this email about. Doe this sound strange to anyone else? First I got this: <<please i will like to know the present location of the car,send pics if any for my client viewing,my client is offering $12,800.state your bottom line price and let me know the present condition of the car. thanks,>> I responded with this: <<The car is still available. It;s located _____.I live in ____. If you'd like to see the car we can do it somewhere near the base or I can bring it back to my house. I'd go down to $12,400.>>
I have my car listed on autotrader.com and just got this email about. Doe this sound strange to anyone else? First I got this: <<please i will like to know the present location of the car,send pics if any for my client viewing,my client is offering $12,800.state your bottom line price and let me know the present condition of the car. thanks,>> I responded with this: <<The car is still available. It;s located _____.I live in ____. If you'd like to see the car we can do it somewhere near the base or I can bring it back to my house. I'd go down to $12,400.>>
Sounds kooky...anyone who has a "client" in the process of buying a used car had better be going to an auction, not writing emails. Anyone who makes an offer on a car he hasn't seen is an idiot -- I can make up exceptions, but an '02 Civic isn't one of them. And why-oh-why are you (i) engaging in this bidding nonsense and (ii) undercutting his offer... aren't you the seller? aren't you supposed to counter with a HIGHER number?
My computer went crazy and I had to restart. Here was his response:< However,you have to give us some time to contact our client on phone, we have been trying hisline for some time now i believe is switchedoff, The amount in the check he deposited for the order is bigger than what should be paid to you, though it's meant or the total expenses which includes the purchase , the pick up and the shipping bills. so we want to know if we shall carry on with that or if he will make arragement for another check ASAP. he is presently in saudi arabia on a visit. i will get back to you as soon as i conclude issues with him.Please get back to us as soon as you recieve this. Thanks and God bless,>>
I've already decided that I'm not going to deal with this guy. It just doesn't feel right.
Hi danbevj. There are no certainties when selling a car privately, but if I was in your situation, I would probably fix the dent and have the Outback detailed prior to trying to sell it. Some community members have used the analogy of selling a house in reference to this type of situation. Homes that have curb appeal and that look great often sell for more money and more quickly than similar homes that were not spiffed up a little bit. As I believe Terry, another community member once said, "The wallet buys what the eye sees."
I have a 1996 Civic LX with 140,000+ miles. It was a great car, but thanks to some not so great insurance coverage and an unfortunate accident in 1999 it now has blown airbags. It did pass inspection, but since we've moved, it won't pass in New Jersey. It has Jersey plates, but no inspection sticker. Now the radiator is leaking and that was the last straw. Got a new car over the weekend. Question is: should I try to sell the car online (e-Bay, etc.), through classified ads, to a junk yard or just donate the sucker and get it over with?
Realistically what is the car worth? The blue book in "rough" condition is $1,000 to $2,000, but with the blown airbags I'm not sure if that applies to this car.
Go over to "Real World Trade In Values" in this same section (Smart Shopper) and give Terry (rroyce) a complete detailed description and he'll give you an idea what it's worth and what to do with it. That site has over 20,000 posts.... Terry is a busy guy!
Mark
2010 Land Rover LR4, 2013 Honda CR-V, 2009 Bentley GTC, 1990 MB 500SL, 2001 MB S500, 2007 Lincoln TC, 1964 RR Silver Cloud III, 1995 MB E320 Cab., 2015 Prevost Liberty Coach
That is the "car classified ad" variant of the classic 4-1-9 scam. They offer you your asking price for the car, then send you a very real-looking money order for several thousand above the askng price. You are then instructed to wire back the difference via Western Union. The MO will clear your bank account, you wire the money back, they pick up your car, then you get a phone call from your bank saying the MO is no good and you owe them several thousand dollars. That's assuming the feds haven't already arrested you on fraud charges.
I get those in email, I even get these scammers CALLING me using TDD devices. *shakes head*
I am trying to sell off a 1986 Volvo 740 wagon, it runs and drives fine, I have advertised it all over the place online, it's got 249K showing and GOK how many more since the odo stopped a couple years back WAY before I got it. It's even automatic transmission, not wrecked at all, no rust, and doesn't smoke. AC is out. I'm in Dallas, it isn't even hot yet here. But I can't get a single bite on it. I started out at $600, now I'm down to $400 and no offers yet (except scammers). I'm afraid I may have to spend $30-$40 and put an ad in the newspaper. My car would be the cheapest car in the paper at $800 let alone $400.
Then I want to sell my 1995 Buick Century sedan, it has 256K and looks and drives like new. I have put 32K on it since November, doing deliveries, (not pizza), and I take very gentle care of it. AC works, everything works, it's got tint, and it's a 4-cylinder which gets 32mpg highway and 25mpg city, just like the EPA figures when it was new. Parents bought it new. I can't get any serious offers on it either. Started out at $2400, down to $1800 and still no bites. Any ideas other than spending $30-$40 to put it in a newspaper?
In other words, there is NO market for cars with 250k miles. If you are serious about moving the vehicle sometime in 2004, you need to buy a for sale sign, price the vehicles at $500/OBO and park the car down near your local temp agency and you will move those within a week.
Please don't bother attacking my idea as I have done it all the time.
$1500 is what you get for a '95 Buick Century in good condition with 100-120k miles if it runs and purrs like a kitten. And to get that amount, it has to have the V6 as opposed to the grossly underpowered 4-cyl.
Would it be considered rude to ask to get a copy of someone's DL before I let them test drive the car? I don't want to ride with them, and figured this might be good insurance in case the car disappears.
Local University is a good idea...I might try that. It'd make a good pizza delivery car for someone.
Gosh, I don't think that's rude at all if you tell them to bring a photocopy when they come. It's nicer if you tell them on the phone. Alternatively, you could simply ask to copy down their DL number - that would be just as good to the police if the car did go missing. I'd think that honest folk would understand, and it's not a huge imposition. Besides, you can always say your insurance co. requires it.
However, if the test driver comes to you, unless they arrive by taxi or bus, he'll be leaving his vehicle at your place whilst test driving, so you've always got that as a sort of "collateral."
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Exactly what I was worried about, Drift. At the price I'm asking for this car, I have a feeling that's a very real possibility. Not to mention those (and in SC its an ungodly number) who don't *have* drivers licenses.
Plus, I don't want kids driving it, just because its a 'turbo.'
you could nicely ask them to bring a copy of their driver's license, and if they're 18 or younger, bring a parent - that should slow down any joyriders or kids who want to wilfully reduce the lifespan of your front tires...
Comments
When you withhold information, you allow the seller to "complete the information" on his own. And that reduces the probability of the sale.
You better be prepared to ask the big question "160k in four years, how? why?"
Another question is about timing. I've been trying to decide whether to sell it now and live with one vehicle for a few months or keep driving it until I'm ready to buy something else toward the end of the summer. Would the extra mileage I would be putting on it during that time make much of a difference in what I can get for it, considering how many miles are on it now?
My gut reaction is to sell it sooner, rather than later, but the vehicle we're keeping gets significantly less mpg and isn't the best commuter type vehicle.
The difference in the price that you will be able to get for your truck will be marginal. So I suggest that you go ahead and use the truck.
A bigger expense may be that your truck will need something repaired before you sell it. However if it runs good now I suggest that you use it.
It's probably better to put the miles on the high mileage truck rather than the new vehicle. High miles on a newer vehicle kill the resale value.
For what it's worth, I have an 85 Corvette with 242k miles on it that I drive on the weekends and it still runs great. I have also stumbled across several very high mileage cars, like a Nissan 240Z with 750k miles on it(Do you think he got his moneys worth?). Maybe you can get another 200k out of your truck if you treat it right. And then when the engine goes just pop a rebuilt in and go for another 200k. At some stage though they get to be more troublesome than you are willing to deal with and you will just want something more reliable. Some people have a higher tolerance for maintaining and dealing with car issues than others. So - That's a question that only you can answer.
Were can I look into get a rebuilt engine to replace the high mileage one? I current have a '94 Toyota Paseo that won't pass emmissions and wonder if it's worth the $$$ to try and fix and keep another year or two. Thanks
Leo
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
I'd ballpark the cost of installing a good used Japanese engine in your car at around $1000-$1800. If you want a QUALITY rebuilt engine then figure around $1500 - $2500. A new factory crate engine will set you back a few grand installed. So If your car isn't worth that much it may not be worth it. Check your local penny-saver/recycler/greensheet paper for ads about auto work. There should be something about used or rebuilt engine swaps. In my area there are people who make a business out of swapping engines into cars.
For what it's worth there are lots of high quality used Japanese engines available. In Japan, due to smog rules, everyone must swap in a new engine at 50,000 (miles or km ??) someone buys up these used engines with plenty of life left and ships them over here for applications like yours. I know of several people who have had very good luck with these used engines. Many of the used engines come with a warranty like 12k miles or something like that.
It goes without saying though that used engines will never be as good as a new factory engine.
If you can keep the old heap running for a year (or three) longer then it may very well be worthwhile to consider a used engine swap.
Hopefully I won't make the same mistake twice and I won't care about the resale value.
Thank you both for the responses. I didn't think it would be worthwhile to have a rebuilt engine put in. I had the catalytic converter put in last year, and an O2 sensor the year before. It's burning about a quart of oil every 2-3,000 miles.
Regards,
Leo
I also put alot of miles on my Toyota. My Paseo also has some of the most uncomfortable seat. It's ok for a commuter car, but you don't want to be driving in those seats longer than an hour or so.
A quart of oil every 2-3000 miles may be high for your car but for some cars (like a Saturn) thats normal everyday occurance (even a new Saturn).
Before you decide that your car is no good make sure that the car actually IS burning oil. Sometimes the car just develops an oil leak that needs to be replenished. And oil leaks are either tolerable or relatively easy to fix. Sometimes with an oil leak like a valve cover leak for example, the oil will just drip onto the top of the engine and evaporate. In this case you won't even see any oil on the ground.
The only way to know for sure if the engine needs to be rebuilt is to do a compression check. A good mechanic can help you out here.
If you are just tired of the car because the seats are uncomfortable - well that's another story altogether.
Curious you mention that regarding the oil leak. I've checked several different times under the car for oil drops/leak but seen nothing. If I could get it fix for $500 or under, I'd sink the money into it just to keep it another year.
isellhondas,
holy cow batman!!!! a quart every 1000 miles? Actually, I think I'm heading that way. Last year or so, my car started to need a quart of oil between 3,000 mile oil changes but only on occassionally. Then definitely between every 3k oil change. Recently it looks like every 2k it needs a quart of oil. I would think that pretty soon it would it would need a quart of oil every 1k.
Thank you both for the advice. I'll look into it with my mechanic.
Regards,
Leo
The fix is to go to heavier oil; 20W50 or some such, and if you live in a cold climate, use Mobil 1 so it's still viscous when it's cold. Expensive oil, but loads cheaper than a ring job.
Reason I mention the Mistu: Friend of mine went this route, and the smoking went down by a huge factor. This is just looking at the tail pipe; no emissions tests here in MI.
Try it, the cost is low enough to just do it on a "what if" basis.
Please report back.
-Mathias
Thank you for the oil tip. Never thought of that.
Regards,
Leo
Regards,
Leo
Figure it would be a good starter car for my wife to learn to drive. Of course, having your husband try to teach his wife to drive might be a recipe for divorce court
The Prizm only had 60K on it, came w/ 4 speed auto, ac, am/fm/casette that I got for $4800 out the door. So I was happy with my purchase.
What is surprising me, is the quick response I've gotten so far in trying to sell my Toyota Paseo w/ 222k miles on it. Asking price is $500, but willing to sell it for $350. Had two people already expressing intrest in less than a 24hr time peroid. Don't want to spend the $$$ fixing it or paying for emission/inspection, plus insuring three car is a little steep.
Leo
I've ended up deciding to keep the Taco for another couple of years. I bought a back support and it's made the seats bearable, so that took away the reason I wanted to dump it.
Thanks all for the suggestions about the ad - I'll remember them in a couple of years when I finally do sell it.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Leo
The 02 manual Prizm that I drive daily just had a bad valve cover replaced under warranty - disappointing, but I hope things won't be breaking much on it at least in the first 2-3 years out of warranty.
Find out what the Civic is worth. To that end, go to Real-World Trade-In Values, read 50 or so posts so you understand whats's going on, then post a great description and you will get a very good idea what it's worth. Then clean it ups, better yet have it detailed, and offer it to two or three dealers in your area, straight-up, not as a trade-in. Tell them you want a price that's good for 5-10 days. The dealer where you bought it from is a good place to start.. they will give you a realistic figure that might be a little light. But now you know your rock bottom.
Then figure out if it's worth to go through with this. Whatever your best offer was so far, you can count on getting $1k more if you sell yourself, and maybe do a little better than that. Civics are easy to sell. Is it worth to trade down, pay taxes again, and wind up with an older car?
If it is, scare up some short-term cash -- credit card, bank of Dad, HELOC, whatever. Pay off the Civic, get title in hand. Go get the new car -- a 2001 Prizm would be a great place to start.
As soon as you're ready to cut the Civic loose, put
a great ad in the biggest paper in your area and get ready to sell your car. Make it easy on the buyer and you'll do much better than if you have to monkey around with liens and title transfers etc.
My guess is that you will conclude you're better off keeping the Civic, but that is your call.
Good luck,
-Mathias
First I got this: <<please i will like to know the present location of the car,send pics if
any for my client viewing,my client is offering $12,800.state your bottom line price and let me know the present condition of the car.
thanks,>>
I responded with this: <<The car is still available. It;s located _____.I live in ____. If you'd like to see the car we can do it somewhere near the base or I can bring it back to my house. I'd go down to $12,400.>>
First I got this: <<please i will like to know the present location of the car,send pics if
any for my client viewing,my client is offering $12,800.state your bottom line price and let me know the present condition of the car.
thanks,>>
I responded with this: <<The car is still available. It;s located _____.I live in ____. If you'd like to see the car we can do it somewhere near the base or I can bring it back to my house. I'd go down to $12,400.>>
Anyone who makes an offer on a car he hasn't seen is an idiot -- I can make up exceptions, but an '02 Civic isn't one of them.
And why-oh-why are you (i) engaging in this bidding nonsense and (ii) undercutting his offer... aren't you the seller? aren't you supposed to counter with a HIGHER number?
Bewildered, I remain,
-Mathias
However,you have to give us some time to contact our client on phone,
we have been trying hisline for some time now i believe is switchedoff,
The amount in the check he deposited for the order is
bigger than what should be paid to you, though it's meant
or the total expenses which includes the purchase ,
the pick up and the shipping bills. so we want to know if we
shall carry on with that or if he will make arragement for
another check ASAP. he is presently in saudi arabia on a visit.
i will get back to you as soon as i conclude issues
with him.Please get back to us as soon as you recieve this.
Thanks and God bless,>>
I've already decided that I'm not going to deal with this guy. It just doesn't feel right.
http://www.saabnet.com/tsn/class/scam/
i got a good laugh out of it. maybe it's not the same thing.
just saw post #87. it looks like the same thing.
Should I repair this on my own first before trying to sell it or just sell it as is?
Thanks for any suggestions.
Car_man
Host
Smart Shoppers Message Board
Realistically what is the car worth? The blue book in "rough" condition is $1,000 to $2,000, but with the blown airbags I'm not sure if that applies to this car.
Go over to "Real World Trade In Values" in this same section (Smart Shopper) and give Terry (rroyce) a complete detailed description and he'll give you an idea what it's worth and what to do with it. That site has over 20,000 posts.... Terry is a busy guy!
Mark
I get those in email, I even get these scammers CALLING me using TDD devices. *shakes head*
Then I want to sell my 1995 Buick Century sedan, it has 256K and looks and drives like new. I have put 32K on it since November, doing deliveries, (not pizza), and I take very gentle care of it. AC works, everything works, it's got tint, and it's a 4-cylinder which gets 32mpg highway and 25mpg city, just like the EPA figures when it was new. Parents bought it new. I can't get any serious offers on it either. Started out at $2400, down to $1800 and still no bites. Any ideas other than spending $30-$40 to put it in a newspaper?
Please don't bother attacking my idea as I have done it all the time.
$1500 is what you get for a '95 Buick Century in good condition with 100-120k miles if it runs and purrs like a kitten. And to get that amount, it has to have the V6 as opposed to the grossly underpowered 4-cyl.
kcram
Host
Smart Shopper and Wagons Message Boards
Local University is a good idea...I might try that. It'd make a good pizza delivery car for someone.
Turboshadow
However, if the test driver comes to you, unless they arrive by taxi or bus, he'll be leaving his vehicle at your place whilst test driving, so you've always got that as a sort of "collateral."
kirstie_h
Roving Host & Future Vehicles Host
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2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
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Unless the prospective buyer doesn't own the vehicle (stolen) - seen that on a few police reports...
Plus, I don't want kids driving it, just because its a 'turbo.'
Turboshadow