I have a 1999 LeSabre dies outta no where.

bucikprolbem1

I have replaced the fuel pump and the crankshaft position Senor the mass air flo Senor still dies and I replaced the EGR valve please help

imidazol97

Is there a pattern to when it dies. What are the conditions?

Mr_Shiftright

No sense throwing parts at it. You might consider arming yourself with about $50 worth of simple diagnostic tools and then have them at the ready when the next failure occurs. You would need a) a spark tester; b) a NOID light, and c) a fuel pressure gauge. These tools should help you determine whether you have a fuel, spark, or sensor problem going on here.

cubsfan7

My 1995 Buick LeSabre suddenly began stalling while driving and would not restart. After reading all of the comments about the possible causes, I was more confused than ever!  Luckily after sitting 30 minutes to an hour the car would restart and drive short distances.  I took the car to my mechanic and he test drove it - it stalled out!  The guys pushed it back to the shop and systematically began checking each relay, fuse, and sensor.  Finally they discovered a code from the ECM for a ignition control module.  They installed a new Delphi ignition control module assembly and the car runs beautifully again!  Hope this helps everyone, the owner thought it was going to be the crank sensor.

imidazol97

imidazol97 said:

Is there a pattern to when it dies. What are the conditions?

After I posted, I checked back to see your response for how it behaved when it died and how it restarted. Since you'd replaced the crankshaft sensor, my choices would have been a defective repair on the crankshaft sensor (wiring?) or the ESC.

For benefit of others who might read this, a lot of the 3800's use the same electronic spark control module under the 3 coils. It's an easy repair of about 9 screws to remove the coils and the 3 screws holding the spark module AND you can get cheap replacements from the pick and pull or recycling yards. If that changes your problem, you're good. You can ride on the scrap replacement or buy a new one.

cryan

I have a 1995 LeSabre and I can drive it to work work 7to8 hours and go to start it and it wont start but if I hit the fuses boxs and pump the gas pedal a few times it takes a minute but sometimes it will start sometimes it won't and the engine light is not always on it comes on and off even when driving what should I try to do to fix's it I really like this car   HELP PLEASE 

imidazol97

Could be ground connections or the hot side connections like on the fuse box where you're hitting.
But that could be a false symptom. It may be just that getting out of the car and waiting then getting back in occurs and the ignition decides to work.

When you sa after a minute if you pump the gas pedal it will start? I assume it not cranking during this time?

When it won't start, if it's not cranking, do all the other accessories work while the key is ON? Wipers? Radio? dome lights? Headlights/taillights?



When you turn your key to ON, does the security red symbol come on in the gauge and then go off after about 3 seconds? That means your computer has read the little chip on the end of the key near the large end.

If the light stays on, the car is blocked from cranking and the injectors won't work--all controlled by the computer. That lasts for several minutes, I'm guessing 8 minutes. Then the computer will let you insert the key and try again.

The computer may let you try three times on the original attempt where you turn the key to crank 3 times before it locks up the system.

Often it's the fine wires that run from the key resistor connectors down through the column. They are fine and are made of 4 or 6 fine threads. After years of the steering column going up and down with the Saginaw tilt wheel, some of those threads break. That causes the resistance through the wires to change and that changes the total resistance read for the key chip + the resistance of the wires.

A solution is to use a resistor to read the chip resistance and match it up with one of the 14 used by the factory. Then someone who understands the wiring can go to the connectors with 50 or more connections above the parking brake area and follow the orange tube that has the two tiny white wires inside that you can see where the tube quits and they connect to the two connectors in the block. They leave a lot of lead and cut the two wires, then solder in carefully resistors (from Radio Shack -- out of business in most areas) and replace the resistor in the key with that resistor. The wiring up inside the steering column is bypassed by this method.

The same bypass is done, I believe, when shops install a car alarm. They have resistors already prepped to replace the bad wiring. The system is called VATS, if you want to read more about it on the internet.

Watch the security light when starting to crank. I found that if I waited after hitting ON for several seconds, it often read and turned OFF the security. If I hurried and turned the key quickly through ON to Crank, I got no crank.

The fact that your security light turns on and off during driving is a symptom sometimes noted by folks on Buick and Pontiac Bonneville boards.

You may find credible videos showing how some have done that -- IF you find this is your problem.

this is the key type I'm talking about. Lots of things online now for bypassing but lots o them seem to be for bypassing the transponder type keys, not the resistance Passkey 2.



Good luck with this.