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Nissan 350Z Care and Maintenance

Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092


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    jaymcgjaymcg Member Posts: 1
    I live in CT and will be storing my 350Z Roadster in one of the unheated garages at my home. I am looking for insight from anyone who has previously stored a car over the winter. Cover It? Start it up once a month? Disconnect the battery? Trickle charge the battery? Oil the cylinders? Etc... Thanks for your help!
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    vonsudderthvonsudderth Member Posts: 17
    If it were me I would start the car and run it until operating temperature once a week. Nissan has a smart computer that cuts power to non essential systems if the car is not run for a period of time. I think it is ten days. But, a car hates to be left and not run. When you run the car once a week I would cycle all of the goodies to include the airconditioner and all the electronics. If possible, I would get a space heater for the garage or you can purchase a space bag for your car. I have a friend in New Hampshire that stores his 70 GTO in a spacebag and it works for keeping the moisture down. The bag is clear plastic and you drive the car into it and then there is a small fan that keeps the bag inflated. That is, after you zip it up. Good luck with the storage. But, I would heat the garage.
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    zzz350zzz350 Member Posts: 44
    I recommend moving to California, winter storage is no problem. In fact, winter driving is a blast
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    a350zladya350zlady Member Posts: 2
    I' recently purchased an 2005 350Z Roadster. I live in California so the sun can be harsh on the convertible top. Does anyone have any suggestion on how it care for the top in the dry desert heat?? Currently I only rinse it with water when I wash my car. I don't use any soap on it.

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    a350zladya350zlady Member Posts: 2
    Does anyone know if it's alright to use Armor All the interior of? the dash, doors etc? Or should I use a different product??

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    fish8fish8 Member Posts: 2,282
    I think Armor All is safe for your interior. There are many people out there who say AA will dry and crack your dash, but from the research I have done their formula has changed and it will NOT dry or crack your interior dash. I actually emailed AA directly and, of course, they state their product will not harm your car. But, many people do not like the shiny affect AA has on their dash. Some say it causes a bad reflection. I use a damp cloth (spray detailer) and just wipe down the dash. I think Meguiars just came out with a new prodcut which cleans ALL interior surfaces. I am not sure it protects the surfaces or just cleans. I have not used this product yet.
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    netsukemannetsukeman Member Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a 2004 Nissan 350Z. When I went in for first Lube, Oil, & Filter I was told the vehicle had NO Grease zerts to lube the suspension and stearing parts. I was told that the replacement parts (once the origional parts wore out) came with grease fittings, but that the Factory put no grease points on the origional parts. This seems crazy to me. Anyone got an answer, or explaination for this? Any alternative to waiting while your car parts wear out from lack of lubrication?
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    qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 33,058
    this is extremely common on cars these days. Grease fittings are becoming rather rare, to my knowledge, as a matter of fact. I believe my mom's '98 Trooper has them, but none of my last 6 or 7 cars built in the 90s and later have had any.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

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    grzygrlgrzygrl Member Posts: 1
    Has anyone else had problems with their brake pads having to be replaced after 4000 miles? I have had my car for 10 months, very low miles...brake pads in front already needed replacement. I drive 140 miles a month....and I don't drive in traffic. They tell me the back needs replacement in about a month or two...they are down to 50%. This is ridiculous. I have been driving sports cars for the last 20 years, have never had this problem before. Any suggestions?
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    3fidday3fidday Member Posts: 4
    350Z Lady--

    DO NOT USE ARMOR ALL.. I have a 2003 350Z and was told that the oils attract dust and over time it will crack your dashboard. The auto guys reccomend I use warm water and a towel to wipe it down.

    I used Armor All wipes once or twice. I liked the gloss but it was oily everywhere..
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    qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 33,058
    crack an all-plastic dash? I don't buy it. Dashboards that have actual material of some sort covering them, ok, but not solid plastic.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

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    3fidday3fidday Member Posts: 4
    yes.. good point. Do any of you find it difficult to keep the inside of your driver side and passenger side doors clean? I have Black interior and it gets Blotchy when I wipe it down.. Any feedback?
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    qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 33,058
    definitely had trouble in mine. My wife actually used those armorall wipes on them when i wasn't looking. Ugh. Made them look horrible. BUT, then I wiped it all down again with a clean dry soft rag and it was ok.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

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    chartjwchartjw Member Posts: 1
    I bought my car used and don't have the owners manual. How do you replace the low beam headlight?
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    jmillsjmills Member Posts: 77
    Below are instructions copied from the service manual for removal and installation of low beam bulbs. Not exactly an easy do it yourself operation.
    Removal and Installation AKS009O8
    1. Open driver and front passenger window, and then disconnect battery negative cable.
    After battery cables are disconnected, do not open/close the driver and/or front passenger door
    with the window in the full up position. The automatic window adjusting function will not work and
    the side roof panel may be damaged.
    2. Remove front bumper. Refer to EI-14, "FRONT BUMPER" in
    "EI" section.
    3. Remove headlamp mounting bolts.
    4. Pull head lamp toward vehicle front, disconnect connector, and
    remove headlamp.
    Installation in the reverse order if removal. Be careful of the following.
    After installation, aiming adjustment. Refer to LT-33, "Aiming Adjustment" .
    Disassembly and Assembly AKS009O9
    Headlamp mounting bolt : 6.1 N·m (0.62 kg-m, 54 in-lb)
    1. Retaining spring 2. Front turn signal lamp bulb 3. Front turn signal lamp bulb socket
    4. Side marker lamp bulb 5. Side marker lamp bulb socket 6. Xenon bulb
    7. Parking lamp (Clearance lamp) bulb 8. Parking lamp (Clearance lamp) bulb socket 9. Seal rubber
    10. Plastic cap 11. Halogen bulb (high) 12. Xenon bulb socket
    13. Halogen bulb socket 14. HID C/U 15. Headlamp housing assembly
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    marcz1marcz1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 350 Z , I am a very high mileage driver, should I use synthetic oil in my Z ????
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    jjmangjjmang Member Posts: 5
    You are talking about a 350z right? Where did you get the manual? HOw do you take off the bumber?
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    siphuzsiphuz Member Posts: 6
    Hey jjmang -

    It's not that complicated! I know a much easier way to replace your lights without having to remove the bumper. First of all, when u say replace your low beams, do u mean your Xenon bulbs or regular halogen??

    Tools needed:
    - Drill with phillips head screw or regular 4 edge screw driver (will take u longer)
    - flat edge screw driver
    - Mini rachet set just in case the screws are on too tight (screws are aslo rachet bolts)

    Steps as follows:
    - turn steering wheel all the way in the direction of which bulb u r changing first (ie. left light assembly, turn steering wheel all the way left).
    - then jack up that side with your factory jack.
    - get under front fender and remove 5-6 screws/bolts that hold up only the front under-side wheel well covering.
    - remove 5 - 6 plastic rivets located around the plastice wheel well covering (4 around the wheel well lining and 2 attached to the frame) - (use flat edge to pop-up then pull out).
    - Pull down covering slightly and allow to rest on tires.
    - You will then have access to the back of the light assembly
    - Goodluck!

    (If it's Xenon that you need to replace - i wouldn't mess with it - may need dealer assistance)
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    jjmangjjmang Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the reply. I did it the first way you described. Worked out well. Taking the bumber off was a chore but i got it done. Thanks
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    bcool1bcool1 Member Posts: 1
    Hi folks,

    Anyone know how to remove the fixture that partially hides the battery? The "pop rivits" look like they will come out, but I don't want to test that theory and break them/the housing. Additionally, I found that the hatch lid was ajar only after it completely drained the battery (alarm light is off, no instrument lights, no power after a 15min jump, etc). Any info on what systems may have been compromised as a result? Thanks.
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    xtech2xtech2 Member Posts: 1
    Hello to all,

    I just bought my 2006 350z two days ago, absolutely love it. Wanted to know if anyone has heard anything negative about the 2006? Thanx :shades:
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    teddykgb3737teddykgb3737 Member Posts: 2
    I am one of the few who plan to use my 350Z in the winter. Does anybody have good snow tires that they would recommend? Secondly, I have a Performance package 2003 350Z, and would really like to add something in the area where the navigation would go. Either an aftermarket navigation or DVD screen. Any suggestions?
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    biancarbiancar Member Posts: 965
    Have you checked out Tirerack.com? They might have some recommendations.
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    jjmangjjmang Member Posts: 5
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    jjmangjjmang Member Posts: 5
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    teddykgb3737teddykgb3737 Member Posts: 2
    Has anyone painted their engine bay at all? I love the look of matching paint under the hood, any idea where to get said paint? I'm assuming any old paint won't do, with the added heat and all...
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    biancarbiancar Member Posts: 965
    Has anyone put in a brushed aluminum or other silvery looking dash kit? Does it look good? Any recommended sources?
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    racemeraceme Member Posts: 1
    I own a 2003 350z roadster with black interior. Has anybody noticed small scratchs on the area when you put your hand to close the door or near the radio or near the little flip up door in the middle dash? The interior is black and kinda rubberized( ???). well I got tired of all the scratchs and worn discolored looking areas. I went to walmart and bought flat black rubberized undercoat paint made by duplicolor I knew I was really going to mess up something !! :sick: up BUT I cleaned the area with alcohol then I sprayed the paint in the CAP and took my finger and smeered a little on the faded areas on my dash. The paint was flat rubberized black but when sprayed in came out kinda dark brown and thick. I just dabbed/rubbed it over the faded and scratches and hoped it would turn out okay well this morning I was AMAZED at how it turned out !! The rubberized paint is a perfect match !! you can't even tell what was the original issue !! I just has to pass this tip on to other nissan owners that have a black dash and interior :shades: there is no part number on the paint but it is Duplicolor rubberized undercoat sku # 2691660101 Good luck I'm picky about my dash and interior scratchs and worn areas ;)
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    zkashzkash Member Posts: 3
    Hey folks. I have an 06 enthu coupe. I have 2500 miles on it? I wana know when should I take it to the dealer for a service and oil change and what kinda oil to use? Does the service and parts cost more then your average nissan? Just curious.. Thanks for your reply...

    ZMike :blush:
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    benzserviceguybenzserviceguy Member Posts: 96
    service runs every 3,750 miles
    If you look in the owners manual there should be a separate service maintenance booklet explaining all the things that get done in each of the services.
    If I recall, only the 15K intervals are any REAL services other than just an oil change and a few inspections.

    You should change the oil AT A MINIMUM of 2X per year (ie: every 6 months)

    My PERSONAL opinion is that synthetic oil can be run and changed at 5 to 6K intervals. This is what I have done in my former BMW, my current LEXUS IS 250, and my NEW Z.

    Once the Z is broken in (approx 1,200 to 1,500) I am going to change the oil and start running synthetic.

    Hope this helps and enjoy the Z .. I know I do!!!
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    zkashzkash Member Posts: 3
    Thank you so much. So I reckon at 2500 miles I need to change oil ;)
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    rjohnsenrjohnsen Member Posts: 2
    2006 350Z acquired in July 2006. 17833 miles. Central Valley Nissan of Modesto is very sensitive with my rocket car. RPM gauge spiked several times and thery replaced the entire console- No questions asked. Serviced every 3000, they do very good job at looking at everything Cold season when tire pressures started to fluctuate, they did disnognostice of entire sensior system-FREE!. I am sold by this deal and my rocket Z
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    windforceuswindforceus Member Posts: 5
    Hi People

    I have a friend wants to sell his Z , 2005 AT ,60000 miles. I just want to know how much dealer charge for regular maintainese because he drives a lot and i am sure someone will need to be replace if i buy it.
    How much dealer charges for the service and is nissan service reliable?

    For ex.
    1. Oil Change
    2. Inspection
    3. Replace tires ( i heard Z has flat tire problem u have to replace it every years and it cost 500$ each)
    4. Transmission Fluid
    5. Engine Coolant
    6. Brake Pad
    7. Brake
    8. Replace Water Pump and Timing Belt

    Overall, is Z a reliable car ? I like Z but i dont' want a car to give me problem and i have to pay $1000 every year. Can someone come out with estimation cost?

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    qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 33,058
    Call your local dealer and ask the pricing questions. Charges can vary based on location.

    Tires you can research online. Try tirerack or discounttriredirect. The '03 and '04 Zs had premature tire wear problems on the front tires. I have not heard of the problem being widespread on the '05s. Ask your friend how often he had to replace the tires.

    this car uses a timing chain, so no need to worry about that one thing. Tranny fluid and coolant flush and fill should each be in the neighborhood of $80-$100. Oil change should be $30 or less. More if you use synthetic, however. The charges for these types of services is no more on the Z than most other vehicles.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

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    leek4747leek4747 Member Posts: 3
    I just replaced the "vinyl" top on my 05 roadster because some car thief slashed a hole in the top to unlock my car.
    When I picked up my car from the dearlership, I tried the top out.
    It did not collapse all the way. In the final stage right before completely folding into the top storage compartment, it stops. If I continue to push the lever, it bounces up and down. The dealership guys continued to open and close the top about 6 to 10 times ( this happened two days in row.) until it finally completely collasped into the the storage compartment. But there still is a jerk or slight pause where it got stuck before. The dealership guys told me the NIssan Mechanics said the mechanical parts are fine and does not need to add hydrolic fluid. They told me it works fine in the sun when it's warm and the new material stiffens up when it's cold. They told me I have to "break it in".
    This sounds like bogus to me. I find it highly unlikely a brand new roadster would have a problem like this. That would be very embarrassing for the salesman.
    However, when I asked Nissan Corporate about this, the customer service agent did mention she had one other 350z owner complain about the same problem on his new Z. She didn't know how the specialist resolved the problem.
    I'm waiting for the specialist to call me but was wondering if anybody else had this problem? Or if the dealership is feeding me lies to get rid of me.
    '05 350z Roadster Touring Pike's
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    raidersix2002raidersix2002 Member Posts: 5
    mine is a 2005 350z roadster, I put a noah cover on her and shut her in the garage. She was fine after 3 months but I missed her.
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    01wht3501wht35 Member Posts: 8
    I had the same problem with my 06 Touring Pike's. My problem lead to a tear in the top in under a week. I think part of the fabric material was binding in the the mechanical parts of the top. I noticed wear on the fabric on both side of the car, in the same place. The area is about 3 inches from the end of the windows at the upper corners of the top. Nissan replaced the fabric (3/36), but top still acts up on occassion. Note that my dealership sent the car to outside repair shop to replace the fabric, as Nissan does not preform that work in-house. Best of luck to you. Remember, all cars have their gremlins.
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    rdt1rdt1 Member Posts: 3
    I had the exact same problem here in Canada. Asked Nissan dealer if they had a ceramic and/or heavy duty brake pad for the front, they said no, so I went and installed a 3rd party part 20.000km ago. Those replacement
    pads are still fine AND I don't have ridiculously large quantities of brake dust on my wheels all of the time (the crappy pad material had to go somewhere). Interestingly, they suggested the wear was due to my storing the car (in an underground heated garage) and that I had to service the calipers each season. Since I have stored cars for many years, I figured he was was making this up as he went. When I replaced the pads and rotors on my own AFTER storing the car for another winter, I confirmed that the calipers were not sticking. This confirmed my suspicions that the pad material was crap.
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    mrdennismrdennis Member Posts: 6
    Since 07 I have put about 24,000 miles on my z and I love it. Drove from kansas to carolina and back, don't want to do it again because of comfort but I loved it. I drive under the speed limits, a lot of times 55mph on the interstate, but why drive fast when you know you're the fastest. :) Overall the car is worth every penny.
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    janet26janet26 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2003 nissain 350 z and i can be driving and the tsc slip light comes on and the car just goes down to idle.I will turn the engine off sometimes it will go off and start running again sometimes it takes 30-40 minutes to get it running does anyone else have this problem??? If so please tell me what it is???? I have only had the car 1 year and i'm tried of sitting on the side of the road.
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    rjohnsenrjohnsen Member Posts: 2
    most likely your ecu is throwing a code and you are in limp mode

    take it to auto zone to read the codes and then take it to the dealer. You can also reset the ECU, Dont do this too much as the ECU is talking to you.

    350Z ECU Resetting Procedures

    Please read all instructions and be familiar with them before any attempts.
    A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.

    ECU Resetting Procedures

    Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will continue to remain ON.
    A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.

    Operations Procedures

    1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
    2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
    2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
    2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
    3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
    4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
    5. Wait about 10 second.
    6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
    7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
    8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.

    If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.

    You can also try disconnecting the battery for 24 hours.

    Last time I saw this, the throttle body was kaput and had to be replaced. very simple process though.

    Don't recommed to reset ECU too many times as it it telling you something
This discussion has been closed.