By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
Day before yesterday, I started the car after sitting at work for about 10 hours and the check engine light came on. Stayed on until last night and then went out. No drive ability problems. I have it scheduled to be looked at next week and will let everyone know what I find out. Now here's the kicker. I just traded in a '98 Accord EX-V6 coupe that I had owned since new and this was an ongoing problem from day one with that car. Honda kept insisting that the problem was a software issue in the ECU and it was nothing to worry about.I live in Denver and we have to use oxygenated fuels in the winter. The only time I had the problem was in the winter. They insisted that the combination of high altitude and oxy fuels was more than what was taken into account when the engine management software was written. They never did get it resolved. No driveability problems, just annoying. Has anyone else seen a check engine light on their '04 TL yet? I really hope I'm not going to have to go to battle with Honda over this.
Thanks in advance for your input.
American Honda Motor Co., Inc.
Honda Automobile Customer Service
1919 Torrance Boulevard
Mail Stop: 500 - 2N - 7D
Torrance, CA 90501-2746
(800) 999-1009
Good Luck!
A search of all the TL forums shows that no one is seeing the problem I'm seeing. And I don't even get as far as *trying* to pair the phone, so it's not a phone issue.
When I hit the "Phone talk" button on the side of the steering wheel, it is supposed to beep and then the MID is supposed to say SETUP. I know this is what is supposed to happen because I went into the dealer yesterday and sat in a new TL and watched it happen.
In my car, when I hit the "Phone talk" button, absolutely nothing happens. No beep. No SETUP message. When I scroll to the HandsFreeLink(TM) screen on the MID and press "Select/Reset," the message changes to "Booting Up" and stays like that forever. This is clearly wrong.
So, yes, I have an appointment scheduled with the dealer but they really don't know squat and will require the car for *days* so they can call it into Acura.
But I'm a techie kinda guy and it seems to me that one thing to try would be to just "reboot" the system, but I have no idea how. So while I'll probably have to be content to wait for my appointment, I thought I'd post this message and see if anybody had any ideas on things I might try or someone at Acura who might help. I know it's a longshot, but what the hey.
Jeff
Regarding the alignment spec, there may be some truth to that. When we bought our '97 CR-V one month after they came out, we also had an issue with the car pulling right slightly. I took it to 2 Honda dealers for alignment, including one that did alignments in-house, and both said they hadn't gotten the specs from Honda yet.
Now, I'm no mechanical expert, but afterwards I was thinking why they couldn't have just put another CR-V on the rack and get the reading off of that.
I can't imagine I'm the only '04 Tl that has sustained such damage so far- can't imagine others are waiting for these figures to have their car properly fixed to manufacturer standards- the info must be somewhere if not in these systems- an have asked the shop to check and see if what they need is in the service manual or available elsewhere so we don't keep waiting to begin said repairs.
Have also called my acura dealer now who recc'd the shop to get them involved in helping and will call honda if need be- modulating my level of response before I go ballistic.
Please please send what you have or tell me more anyone. Want to drive my TL again- and it's killing me that I'm paying for it- and since the guy who naileld me is uninsured- it's all on my u/i coverage which is limited- driving a chevy malibu rental car- some replacement....
Does anybody know of a place on the Acura web site for letting them know about this stuff? The service department here doesn't seem to have a clue that the problem even exists...
Also been having seat memory-loss with this car.
Since I bought the car, it has had problems starting. It cranks for quite a while and either starts (and stumbles and coughs) or it doesn't start at all. This happens about 50-60% of the time I start the car, and it doesn't matter if it is warm or cold. I'm in FL.
Today, the AC went out. Being a realtor and given the weather forecast for rain, this is a problem. I called my local dealer but their service department had closed. I asked their sales manager if he could help me by letting me leave my car for service and get a loaner car. He was going to do this for me until he realized that I bought the car in Orange Park. Then he told me that he wouldn't help me because they have no obligation to help me since I bought the car elsewhere. I explained that I tried to buy the car there. He said it made no difference. I guess that as an Acura dealer they feel that they have no obligation to Acura owners. What jerks. The dealer I bought the car from was kind enough to offer to pay for a rental car for tomorrow.
Has anyone else had these problems? Also, is it unrealistic for me to expect assistance from my local dealer even if I didn't buy the car there? I literally have had the car for 10 days.
Otherwise, I love the car. Very roomy, comfortable, fast, great stereo, comfortable seats, etc.
That's an outrage and is certainly not something one would expect from any dealer.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Does anyone else know?
I had the same problem with the HandsFreeLink being dead - no beep. The fix was to replace the control unit. Call your dealer and make sure they have ordered a unit before you take your car in.
jime
Separately, living in NYC the rims get scrapped around the edges. Nothing you can do about this regardless of have careful I am. Does anybody know of a product to get the "black" out? I feel if the black is out I can live with the scratches. Also, is there such a thing as rim touch up paint?
Thanks
Thanks
The dealer where I purchased the car (350 miles away) called the zone manager today to report what happened to me. I wonder what the fallout will be from that when I go back to the local dealer.
The local dealer took my car this afternoon after I called three times. They did put me in a loaner car, so that was nice. The gentleman in the service department was helpful, so perhaps this experience will improve.
With the '03 TL loaner car I have, it is interesting to see how the car starts. It immediately starts right up and doesn't cough or choke at all. I don't think that the chip is causing the starting issue. It seems like if the chip didn't register yet, the starter wouldn't even crank.
Thoughts?
Power to the starter is not associated with "the chip". The chip in the key is an RFID tag that is programmed into the on-board ignition computer. If a chip with an ID is present in the ignition, then the computer will feed fuel to the fuel-injection system and command spark. No chip, no gas or spark.
The starter requires high-current wiring to make it go. It is less reliable to switch the starter on by computer, so they run regular old wires up the steering column for the starter power. A thief can crack the steering column, hot-wire the starter, and it will crank away until the battery runs dead -- but with no key with the right ID present, it will not start the engine.
I had experience with this -- had a 1995 Integra GS-R stolen (inside the car was the keys to my wife's 2000 Odyssey). I replaced the stolen car with a 1998 Accord (first to have the Immobilzer system - "the chip") and had to pay for a new key for my wife's car, and have it reprogrammed to not recognize the stolen key. Talked with the service tech on how this all works.
When word gets out that a specific dealer is treating people like dirt, then maybe people will stop visiting them. If they are bad enough, maybe the manufacture will yank their dealership franchise license. A few months ago I bought my Acura TL '04. I had a flat-spotting problem with the OEM tires; my dealership was FABULOUS to work with me. Maybe we can weed out those awful ones. This is the same people that have the great website I posted earlier (www.autospies.com)
Thanks
colinz - does your neighbor have the stock bulbs or aftermarket?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
1. Rough engine. I, too, thought this might be due to the increased HP. Someone earlier mentioned that it felt like a drumbeat every sixth beat, and I'd have to agree.
2. Small pops and noises from the dash and headliner.
3. Memory seat loss.
4. Hard to start sometimes.
5. XM Radio not working. I called to activate it, but I just keep getting the phrase "antenna" on the display. I was told by XM that I needed to take the car back to the dealer, which the dealer confirmed.
6. Flatspotting. Maybe just a little. Nothing obvious.
I've got to make a special trip back to the dealer anyway (120 mi.) to have them install the wind deflector, so I'll ask if any of these common problems can be corrected.
BTW, mdhauke, I have the mudguards on my car, and I think they look very good. But they're really too small IMO to do a very good job of deflecting mud, although I haven't driven through any mud yet. Haven't noticed any scratched paint, but I would imagine if it did it would be hidden under the mudflap and not noticeable.
I spoke to my dealer about it today and they claim they have never heard of my particular problem. They said once in a while it will take about 3 seconds to start due to what dunlev is saying, but where it is taking much longer for me they feel as though it is something else.
That's the way all Honda/Acuras are setup to prevent people from running out of gas. It's very easy to calculate how much gas you actually still have, given that the trip computer shows the average mpg and the total miles traveled since reset (assuming that you reset, when you fill up)
By the way, Acura *is* one of the big boys.
They describe a process known as "bedding" the brakes, as follows:
"Drive the vehicle to a remote area and perform at least 30 brake applications of 3-second duration. Use light/medium deceleration with varying starting speeds. Leave at least ½ mile between each brake application.
The purpose of this procedure is to gradually increase the temperature in the components without inducing thermal shock, and to mate the brake pad and disc friction surfaces."
I might try this and see if it helps. (G35 coupe owners seem to have similar noise issues with their Brembos, and have talked about bedding.)
Speaking of noise, my passenger-side sun visor rattled at low-rpm's, so the dealer replaced it, eliminating the problem.