I have 1500 miles on my 04 TL. I have not experienced any of the vibrations that are being discussed. Certainly not the vibration at idle. I changed tires after 400 miles because of the rough ride of the EL42's. I guess that could have been construed as vibration. I was washing my TL yesterday and noticed that a couple of the glue on wheel weights were missing from my left front. Two weights were still attached but three were gone ( the weights are all on a strip which is glued to the rim ). I have been noticing a very slight vibration at about 70 mph and am guessing that may be the problem. I will know soon as I am going back to Costco where I bought the new tires and get them re balanced. I never paid attention to the wheels when I first got the car in terms of balance weights. Are there any on the wheels with the OEM tires ? I always believe that vibration is caused by tires or wheel balancing on a new car since the chances of suspension being involved is pretty small in a new car. Unfortunately my wife had a flat tire and the boys who replaced the tire chewed the wheel up pretty good putting the tire back on. Oh well, they are only new cars when they are at the dealers...the minute you take possession they start becoming "used cars".
and get your downpay back if you find any problem with your delivered TL? I wonder did many people simply take the delivery w/o a test drive of your TL, as many problems reported seem catchable during a test drive. Years back I took my Ody w/o test drive too and luckily it went ok, as one would expect from Honda, but this may not be a good idea for TL?
I didnt take a test drive on mine but it turns out ok. I drove the car myself from the dealer's parking lot. If I saw vibration especially when it's on idle, I would demand for a change but there wasnt.
Even when I bought my 97 accord (used car in 2000), I didnt take a test drive and it turns out ok too.
I find it hard to believe that new car vibrate when it's on idle.
The only problem that I found is flatspotting and lost memory seat but after a couple min driving, its gone. While the memory seats lost hasnt happened again yet.
There are rumors that Acura might recall the tire and re-install the software for memory seats.
Other than that there is no way I am gonna replace this car at least not this year.
On the 6-speed TL, the emergency hand brake must be engaged for the seat memory to function. I imagine for the 5AT, the car has to be in "Park". That's so you're not fiddling with the seat while driving.
Well, to say I'm dissapointed with my TL so far after 3 days would be an understatement.
I was plagued with the dreaded vibration issue on Day 1, until I read these boards and realized the dealer never properly prepped the tires (they were dramatically overinflated). Ok, easy fix.
Tonight on my way home from work, the Malfunction Indicator Lamp comes on (the engine block icon).
The manual says that it most likely is emmissions related, but it also warns not to drive your car very far with it on, as damage can be done do the vehicle. Great! I live about 15 miles from the dealership. BTW, I haven't even opened up the gas cap, as I've only had the vehicle 2 days. But I tried that, and the lamp is still on.
Can I drive it that far? Any experiences would be appreciated. I'm very upset at this point!
Unless the MIL light is flashing, it should be Ok to drive the car to the dealer.
Even though you haven't touched the gas cap, there is a possibility that the high school kid who was paid $8 per hour by the dealer to fill up your car didn't screw the cap back on properly (although I didn't think it would take 3 days for the MIL light come on if the cap wasn't on tight). Well, you really won't know what's up until the dealer hooks it up to the diagnostic.
It happened to me after they filled up the gas for the very first time. According to the manual may be its due to the loosened gas cap. I checked on the gas cap and tightened it up and after a mile or so its gone.
Other possibility is the system is adjusting for the very first time. The same thing happened when I use valvoline product for cleaning the gas line, spark plugs, combustion chamber, valve etc. for my accord. I had to reset the sensor then its all went ok.
Try checking the gas cap first, let the car engine running for a while in a stop position. If it doesnt go away then maybe you have to call the dealer.
I need to replace one of my original OEM Michelin Pilot MXM4 215/50R17 V tires on my 2003 TL Type S due to road damage. The other 3 tires have about 14,000 miles on them. Given the overall poor performance of the OEM tires, I am looking at changing brands. My options:
1) Replace it with another OEM Tire. Cost: $250. 2) Replace 2 tires with another brand, same size. Cost: $250. 3) Replace all 4 tires with another brand, same size. Cost: $500.
As for brand, I am looking at either the Sumitomo HTR+ ($76/ea.) or the Continental ContiExtremeContact ($91/ea.). Any thoughts or recommendations?
"Well, to say I'm dissapointed with my TL so far after 3 days would be an understatement."
Wow! You sure are easily disappointed! If you cry over a tire overinflation and an indicator light coming on, will you kill yourself over the first rattle? And belive me, there will be a rattle. This is not a rock-solid third-year-in-production car.
As far as the light goes, others have already indicated that it's probably the gas cap. The dealership's errand-boy probably didn't tighten the cap right, when filling up your car for the first time. It seems like the dealership has already made one serious blunder on car prep; it seems likely they made another one.
It is my understanding that they build some hysterisis into the engine warning light. That is, when a condition occurs that could lead to lighting it, they verify it continues for a period before lighting the light -- same on the other end. I assume this is to get rid of simple intermittent conditions that would cause the light to flash on and off.
I have been told on a different Honda vehicle that after adjusting a gas cap, it won't go away instantly - you have to wait until the computer decides the condition is really gone. In my '98 Accord, this seems to be about a 3 day window (it could be number of trips -- I drive about 2-3 trips per day normally).
Is this consistent with other's experiences?
Of course, a dealer can clear the condition with their interface computer, so that when you drive away from the shop, the light is off.
"I have been told on a different Honda vehicle that after adjusting a gas cap, it won't go away instantly - you have to wait until the computer decides the condition is really gone. In my '98 Accord, this seems to be about a 3 day window (it could be number of trips -- I drive about 2-3 trips per day normally).Is this consistent with other's experiences?"
My parents forgot to tighten the cap twice. As soon as I saw the light, I made sure the cap was tight and clicked at least three times. In both cases the light never went away after several days in first case and weeks in the second case. Both times the dealer told them it was the gas cap problem.
I have a theory about these problem that people are having. Lurkers who dont own the car and even the manual. just a thought maybe thats why the problems are wierd. Lets see their vin number and name of the dealership, I will run a check to it.
Took my TL (with 80 miles on the Odo.) back to the dealership today. They were very cordial and gave me a loaner car for the day ('03 TL, God what an improvement the '04 is over that).
Got a call late in the day, that they could still not decipher why the light would not go out after trying "the usual stuff". They are keeping the car till tomorrow as they have to contact "Acrua Technical Support".
Danny1878...let me make sure I understand what you are saying. Are you suggesting that the people posting on here DON'T actually own an '04 TL and are just fanning the flames by posting problems on here? I can't imagine a bigger waste of time that to just go on a message board and post false reports. Though, maybe Lexus or Infiniti has hired people to do just that to steer others away from the Acura dealers and into their lots. LOL!
I can tell you that I do indeed own an '04 TL. But I'm not gonna give you my VIN to prove it.
Sorry to hear that; you may have a lemony TL on your hands. Just in case, I would start documenting the problems, making sure the dealership puts detailed explanations of problems on the receipts, etc.
What are we talking about here. Some minor emissions build up and a crappy set of tires that shouldn't have been put on the car in the first place.
blerner2 - Be patient and don't worry so much. Everything will work out. The new TL is a great car, otherwise I along with many others on these boards wouldn't have got one. Also, be sure adhere to the brake-in guidelines outlined in the owner's manual, and use a good quality fuel that is at least 91 octane.
High-pitched brake squeal is caused by a high-frequency vibration between the pad and the rotor. Brake noise is not caused solely by the brake pad. The brake rotor, diameter, and stiffness of the disc are also factors in the offending noise. Metallic-Carbon pads (like those on the Brembos) typically produce more inherent noise than the organic pads (older technology). The bigger the brakes, the worse the noise problem can be. Different brake pad manufacturers use different and varying amounts of substances in their pads: iron, copper, zinc, other alloys, lead, carbon, ceramic compounds, Kevlar, and numerous other fillers. This variation in pad composition, geometric design of the pad, and the stiffness (density) of the pad material itself can also contribute to the noise. Lastly, all of these factors can be affected by environmental factors such as temperature and humidity.
How to fix it? (for mechanics only)
1. Make sure you have straight and true surfaces on your rotors and pads. Turn, or replace rotors as necessary. Do the same with the pads.
2. Inspect calipers, caliper sliders, and all other mounting surfaces and metal-to-metal contact areas. This includes the rotor to hub mounting surface which commonly becomes contaminated by rust and other debris. Lubricate all metal-to-metal contact areas with moly grease or lube. Inspect complete system and make sure that rotors and pads are lining up true when brakes are being applied.
3. Apply anti-squeal moly lube or similar to the backing plate of the pads, or use an anti-squeal shim between the pad and the piston contact areas. This will change (dampen) the frequency of the vibration and will help reduce the noise, considerably.
4. Chamfering of the leading and trailing edge of the pads will also help to reduce noise levels.
5. Inspect related suspension components to make sure worn components are not placing undue stresses on the braking system, calipers, and pads.
For those of you who are thinking of purchasing a new TL….think again.
The car is littered with rattles, the tires vibrate, the heater smells like antifreeze and the company will not allow you to speak to a company representative.
I posted above about my Engine Malfunction light coming on in my new TL (after 2 days). Took it to the dealer, they could not decipher the code coming off the diagnostic, so they had to deal with Acura Tech support.
Turns out it was a "Bad Engine Crank Sensor". I assume emission related. Part came in this morning and should have the car back tomorrow.
First case the dealer has seen of this. Hopefully this will serve to help someone else in the future that is running into this issue.
Actually, I ‘m not kidding! The heater in my new 04 tl smells like antifreeze and I’m not the only person who posted this problem on this site.
The tires are awful...they vibrate until they heat up and even then you feel every little bump. The tires have also been reported on this site.
As for the rattles, well what can I say…it rattles!
Yes, I am ashamed of myself....for not buying a Lexus.
Acura = Oldsmobile
The worst part of this is that when I called the Acura Company they would not even let me speak to a zone manager...they just don’t care...they have their money!
Someone once said to me that don't listen to what the car manufacturer says, ALWAYS change your oil every 3000 miles. This was several years ago. Now with the new TL and the computers that run the engine, etc, etc, can I REALLY trust the computer and not change my oil until it tells me to? I have about 2200 miles on it, and I'm at 70% oil life left.
That is a lingering concern of mine too. My CL-S, almost since day one, has had random, and varying rattles and squeaks. The moonroof rattle is fixable, but the rest seem to jump around and come and go with no particular pattern. They seem to emanate mostly from the dash and door panels. The TL demo that I had overnight was almost brand new with less than 500 KM on the odo but it already had a fairly noticeble squeak that seemed to be in the area of the front passenger door close to the dash.
You do not have to worry about changing your oil every 3000 miles. Because the engines are being better manufactured today and the technology is there, engines can run longer and smoother today on the same amount of oil as they did 10 years ago. Your TL's oil actually doesn;t need to be changed until about 7,500 miles.
As far as antifreeze goes, I had the same problem but it does go away after a while. My dealer told me that it has to do with whatever Acura coats everything with before delivering a vehicle. After a while it should burn off.
Proud owner of TL for about 3 weeks now and just love it! Have experienced none of the problems mentioned here. Weather here has been real messy, but it drives/handles great. Took quite some time to get the homelink to work on my garage door - finally went to the homelink website and the very first instruction was to have the key turned on in the ignition - tried it and it immediately worked.
Now, the only trouble I am facing is with the cool handsfree link. Works great with receiving calls. But having a real tough time making calls since it repeatedly gets the numbers incorrect. I have tried the silent garage, no fans, talk slow, etc.. For now, I get around it by making the call from the cell and then use the "transfer" command which works fine.
So, any tips on getting it to accept the numbers correctly? Even if I can just get it programmed, then I can call using the "list" option.
Greatly appreciate any handsfree tips - it will make my TL experience COMPLETE!
> The alarming part of your message is that Acura did not respond to you.
Yes, I also wondered about that part. However, I would also be interested in the dealer response, and why he felt he had to escalate to Acura. And, how did he handle himself on the phone? Was it a polite attempt to resolve a problem, or an abusive tirade about how Acura is like Oldsmobile?
Yeah, the customer is supposed to be always right, but I had always found that tact gets you further that harrasment. (Like the free Odyssey Navi software upgrade I got from American Honda when I sent in a firm, but polite complaint about one of their dealers).
Does anyone have a problem with steering wheel vibration while idling? I would like to know. If you do, what is the solution for this problem? And also what explanation was given to you by your dealer or ACS. This is driving me nuts. I can't think of driving this car for four years.
I've had my TL for about two weeks now, and I love it. However, I am noticing one rather bizarre driving behavior. When taking off from a stop (red light, or even rolling out of right turn), the initial pressing on the gas pedal seems to not "catch," and I get a little jerky feel to the acceleration. It's starting to bother me more and more. I'm coming from a manual transmission on my 97 maxima, so maybe i need to acclimate to the AT for a while longer, but before I bring it in for a service rep to look at/drive it, I want to see if anyone else has noticed this.
Here's a blurb from Edmunds' Full Test, but I think they were testing the MT, so it's not the same problem IMO: Taking off from a stop was sometimes a challenge, even for our most seasoned car jockeys. In spite of the V6's generally muscle-bound nature, there's not much torque at low rpm, so when you pull away you have to give it more gas than you'd think, making for somewhat jerky starts until you acclimate. Once you're rolling, it moves out cleanly and the party really gets going when the tach needle swings past 2,500 rpm, as a wave of power sends the TL down the road in a hurry.
My car had a VERY VERY strong antifreeze smell from the heater for the first 700-800 miles. I'm now on 1,200 miles and once in a while I get a very slight whiff of it again. But I can guarantee you that the smell does subside dramatically. I expect to never smell it again after another couple hundred miles.
Try describing the problem again; I have no idea what you're trying to describe. Quoting an article about a car with manual transmission is totally irrelevant.
bobogs - I believe it has more to do with the drive-by-wire throttle design. Compared to previous TL models, the new TL requires you to have a slightly heavier foot for both the auto and manual. Also on previous TL models, the AT does exhibit a slight lag in response time. This "lag time" was supposed to be greatly improved for the new TL (we're talking about fractions of a second here).
I have the new TL 6MT, so for me it's not an issue but I also have a 2000 TL AT and I notice the difference. For you coming from an MT, you just have to get used to the AT throttle response. If you think the throttle response time is too great, there's no harm in having the car checked out.
I don't know why you never smelled it, I would have thought every TL would have been preped the same like you said but but again it doesn't last very long so it is no reason for concern.
On another note my TL is being serviced as we speek looking into the rough start problem and looking into those two software updates posted on this board a little while ago. Also they are fixing a scratch they put on my trunk when installing the deck lid spoiler. The good thing is that they offered me a vehicle to drive in the meantime. The bad thing is that they paid for an Enterprise rental which I can't driver because I am too young.
Took my TL back to dealer. They found the wheels to be way out of balance. Difference is dramatic.
Now I only have tire related flatspotting and somewhat harsh (for me) ride. Service guy was really great and confirmed what others had posted here -- that Acura should be coming out with tire fix within next 60 days. He wouldn't let me change the tires when I asked, saying that I should wait a few months to take advantage of the fix that's coming down.
In any event, my issues are all resolved and I'm very happy with the car.
Endale -- The idle steering vibration that I had the first day is totally gone. Can't explain it, since I can't see how it had anything to do with wheels out of balance, but I'm not complaining.
Please explain this clearly. Are you saying the idle steering wheel vibration is gone once you fixed your tires or it just happened without any intervention?
To be honest, I'm not sure. The steering wheel in idle vibration only happened intermittently (really 2-3 times) immediately after getting the car for the first time. The road vibration (vibration while driving) was significantly worse problem.
Since getting the car back from repair, there are no vibration issues at all. My only problem now is the tires themselves, which I can live with until either Acura comes through with a fix or I get new tires.
In short, the dealer didn't affirmatively do anything other than rebalance and align. (They did comment that they were WAY off.) Whether it's coincidence or causation that the idle vibration went away I can't say. I will let you know if it reappears.
Comments
I was washing my TL yesterday and noticed that a couple of the glue on wheel weights were missing from my left front. Two weights were still attached but three were gone ( the weights are all on a strip which is glued to the rim ). I have been noticing a very slight vibration at about 70 mph and am guessing that may be the problem. I will know soon as I am going back to Costco where I bought the new tires and get them re balanced.
I never paid attention to the wheels when I first got the car in terms of balance weights. Are there any on the wheels with the OEM tires ? I always believe that vibration is caused by tires or wheel balancing on a new car since the chances of suspension being involved is pretty small in a new car.
Unfortunately my wife had a flat tire and the boys who replaced the tire chewed the wheel up pretty good putting the tire back on. Oh well, they are only new cars when they are at the dealers...the minute you take possession they start becoming "used cars".
Even when I bought my 97 accord (used car in 2000), I didnt take a test drive and it turns out ok too.
I find it hard to believe that new car vibrate when it's on idle.
The only problem that I found is flatspotting and lost memory seat but after a couple min driving, its gone. While the memory seats lost hasnt happened again yet.
There are rumors that Acura might recall the tire and re-install the software for memory seats.
Other than that there is no way I am gonna replace this car at least not this year.
I was plagued with the dreaded vibration issue on Day 1, until I read these boards and realized the dealer never properly prepped the tires (they were dramatically overinflated). Ok, easy fix.
Tonight on my way home from work, the Malfunction Indicator Lamp comes on (the engine block icon).
The manual says that it most likely is emmissions related, but it also warns not to drive your car very far with it on, as damage can be done do the vehicle. Great! I live about 15 miles from the dealership. BTW, I haven't even opened up the gas cap, as I've only had the vehicle 2 days. But I tried that, and the lamp is still on.
Can I drive it that far? Any experiences would be appreciated. I'm very upset at this point!
Even though you haven't touched the gas cap, there is a possibility that the high school kid who was paid $8 per hour by the dealer to fill up your car didn't screw the cap back on properly (although I didn't think it would take 3 days for the MIL light come on if the cap wasn't on tight). Well, you really won't know what's up until the dealer hooks it up to the diagnostic.
Hope it's nothing serious.
Other possibility is the system is adjusting for the very first time. The same thing happened when I use valvoline product for cleaning the gas line, spark plugs, combustion chamber, valve etc. for my accord. I had to reset the sensor then its all went ok.
Try checking the gas cap first, let the car engine running for a while in a stop position. If it doesnt go away then maybe you have to call the dealer.
1) Replace it with another OEM Tire. Cost: $250.
2) Replace 2 tires with another brand, same size. Cost: $250.
3) Replace all 4 tires with another brand, same size. Cost: $500.
As for brand, I am looking at either the Sumitomo HTR+ ($76/ea.) or the Continental ContiExtremeContact ($91/ea.). Any thoughts or recommendations?
Wow! You sure are easily disappointed! If you cry over a tire overinflation and an indicator light coming on, will you kill yourself over the first rattle? And belive me, there will be a rattle. This is not a rock-solid third-year-in-production car.
As far as the light goes, others have already indicated that it's probably the gas cap. The dealership's errand-boy probably didn't tighten the cap right, when filling up your car for the first time. It seems like the dealership has already made one serious blunder on car prep; it seems likely they made another one.
I have been told on a different Honda vehicle that after adjusting a gas cap, it won't go away instantly - you have to wait until the computer decides the condition is really gone. In my '98 Accord, this seems to be about a 3 day window (it could be number of trips -- I drive about 2-3 trips per day normally).
Is this consistent with other's experiences?
Of course, a dealer can clear the condition with their interface computer, so that when you drive away from the shop, the light is off.
My parents forgot to tighten the cap twice. As soon as I saw the light, I made sure the cap was tight and clicked at least three times. In both cases the light never went away after several days in first case and weeks in the second case. Both times the dealer told them it was the gas cap problem.
Got a call late in the day, that they could still not decipher why the light would not go out after trying "the usual stuff". They are keeping the car till tomorrow as they have to contact "Acrua Technical Support".
Doesn't sound too good to me!
I can tell you that I do indeed own an '04 TL. But I'm not gonna give you my VIN to prove it.
My TL's problems are only cold tire(flat spotting) and memory seat. Other than that is the car is too nice that makes me worry for theft and ding.
blerner2 - Be patient and don't worry so much. Everything will work out. The new TL is a great car, otherwise I along with many others on these boards wouldn't have got one. Also, be sure adhere to the brake-in guidelines outlined in the owner's manual, and use a good quality fuel that is at least 91 octane.
High-pitched brake squeal is caused by a high-frequency vibration between the pad and the rotor. Brake noise is not caused solely by the brake pad. The brake rotor, diameter, and stiffness of the disc are also factors in the offending noise. Metallic-Carbon pads (like those on the Brembos) typically produce more inherent noise than the organic pads (older technology). The bigger the brakes, the worse the noise problem can be. Different brake pad manufacturers use different and varying amounts of substances in their pads: iron, copper, zinc, other alloys, lead, carbon, ceramic compounds, Kevlar, and numerous other fillers. This variation in pad composition, geometric design of the pad, and the stiffness (density) of the pad material itself can also contribute to the noise. Lastly, all of these factors can be affected by environmental factors such as temperature and humidity.
How to fix it? (for mechanics only)
1. Make sure you have straight and true surfaces on your rotors and pads. Turn, or replace rotors as necessary. Do the same with the pads.
2. Inspect calipers, caliper sliders, and all other mounting surfaces and metal-to-metal contact areas. This includes the rotor to hub mounting surface which commonly becomes contaminated by rust and other debris. Lubricate all metal-to-metal contact areas with moly grease or lube. Inspect complete system and make sure that rotors and pads are lining up true when brakes are being applied.
3. Apply anti-squeal moly lube or similar to the backing plate of the pads, or use an anti-squeal shim between the pad and the piston contact areas. This will change (dampen) the frequency of the vibration and will help reduce the noise, considerably.
4. Chamfering of the leading and trailing edge of the pads will also help to reduce noise levels.
5. Inspect related suspension components to make sure worn components are not placing undue stresses on the braking system, calipers, and pads.
The car is littered with rattles, the tires vibrate, the heater smells like antifreeze and the company will not allow you to speak to a company representative.
Buy a Toyota…
Furthermore, my TL has none of your above mentioned issues.
I posted above about my Engine Malfunction light coming on in my new TL (after 2 days). Took it to the dealer, they could not decipher the code coming off the diagnostic, so they had to deal with Acura Tech support.
Turns out it was a "Bad Engine Crank Sensor". I assume emission related. Part came in this morning and should have the car back tomorrow.
First case the dealer has seen of this. Hopefully this will serve to help someone else in the future that is running into this issue.
Now....I want my Car back!
The heater in my new 04 tl smells like antifreeze and I’m not the only person who posted this problem on this site.
The tires are awful...they vibrate until they heat up and even then you feel every little bump. The tires have also been reported on this site.
As for the rattles, well what can I say…it rattles!
Yes, I am ashamed of myself....for not buying a Lexus.
Acura = Oldsmobile
The worst part of this is that when I called the Acura Company they would not even let me speak to a zone manager...they just don’t care...they have their money!
Thanks,
Eddie
As far as antifreeze goes, I had the same problem but it does go away after a while. My dealer told me that it has to do with whatever Acura coats everything with before delivering a vehicle. After a while it should burn off.
Now, the only trouble I am facing is with the cool handsfree link. Works great with receiving calls. But having a real tough time making calls since it repeatedly gets the numbers incorrect. I have tried the silent garage, no fans, talk slow, etc.. For now, I get around it by making the call from the cell and then use the "transfer" command which works fine.
So, any tips on getting it to accept the numbers correctly? Even if I can just get it programmed, then I can call using the "list" option.
Greatly appreciate any handsfree tips - it will make my TL experience COMPLETE!
Yes, I also wondered about that part. However, I would also be interested in the dealer response, and why he felt he had to escalate to Acura. And, how did he handle himself on the phone? Was it a polite attempt to resolve a problem, or an abusive tirade about how Acura is like Oldsmobile?
Yeah, the customer is supposed to be always right, but I had always found that tact gets you further that harrasment. (Like the free Odyssey Navi software upgrade I got from American Honda when I sent in a firm, but polite complaint about one of their dealers).
ACS. This is driving me nuts. I can't think of driving this car for four years.
When taking off from a stop (red light, or even rolling out of right turn), the initial pressing on the gas pedal seems to not "catch," and I get a little jerky feel to the acceleration. It's starting to bother me more and more.
I'm coming from a manual transmission on my 97 maxima, so maybe i need to acclimate to the AT for a while longer, but before I bring it in for a service rep to look at/drive it, I want to see if anyone else has noticed this.
Here's a blurb from Edmunds' Full Test, but I think they were testing the MT, so it's not the same problem IMO:
Taking off from a stop was sometimes a challenge, even for our most seasoned car jockeys. In spite of the V6's generally muscle-bound nature, there's not much torque at low rpm, so when you pull away you have to give it more gas than you'd think, making for somewhat jerky starts until you acclimate. Once you're rolling, it moves out cleanly and the party really gets going when the tach needle swings past 2,500 rpm, as a wave of power sends the TL down the road in a hurry.
Thanks!
Gary
I have the new TL 6MT, so for me it's not an issue but I also have a 2000 TL AT and I notice the difference. For you coming from an MT, you just have to get used to the AT throttle response. If you think the throttle response time is too great, there's no harm in having the car checked out.
On another note my TL is being serviced as we speek looking into the rough start problem and looking into those two software updates posted on this board a little while ago. Also they are fixing a scratch they put on my trunk when installing the deck lid spoiler. The good thing is that they offered me a vehicle to drive in the meantime. The bad thing is that they paid for an Enterprise rental which I can't driver because I am too young.
Now I only have tire related flatspotting and somewhat harsh (for me) ride. Service guy was really great and confirmed what others had posted here -- that Acura should be coming out with tire fix within next 60 days. He wouldn't let me change the tires when I asked, saying that I should wait a few months to take advantage of the fix that's coming down.
In any event, my issues are all resolved and I'm very happy with the car.
Endale -- The idle steering vibration that I had the first day is totally gone. Can't explain it, since I can't see how it had anything to do with wheels out of balance, but I'm not complaining.
Since getting the car back from repair, there are no vibration issues at all. My only problem now is the tires themselves, which I can live with until either Acura comes through with a fix or I get new tires.
In short, the dealer didn't affirmatively do anything other than rebalance and align. (They did comment that they were WAY off.) Whether it's coincidence or causation that the idle vibration went away I can't say. I will let you know if it reappears.