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Buick Century Maintenance and Repair



  • fallingstarfallingstar Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Buick century. Both front windows work fine but the back driver's side window will go down but not back up. (I'm afraid to test the passenger side) You can hear what I assume is the motor making a kind of clicking noise but nothing happens. I physically pushed the back window back up but it keeps sliding back down again. Any idea what could be wrong? I don't really care if I get the window working again as long as it will stay up.
  • noodlesknowlesnoodlesknowles Member Posts: 15
    I had problems with my signals on my 94, changed the flasher and it fixed everything, its a little metal plug in up under the dash, real cheap too.
  • noodlesknowlesnoodlesknowles Member Posts: 15
    my windows gave out, it ended up being the wires that run from the doors into the car, they wear out and snap when you open and close the door. maybe you just need a little electrical tape and rewiring :) :shades:
  • noodlesknowlesnoodlesknowles Member Posts: 15
    sounds like your window is just off track, probably just need to take the door apart and reset it, look online to figure out how to take the door apart, I think its pretty easy
  • doggaldoggal Member Posts: 17
    Hi there:
    I have a buick century 94 and the back windows lower only halfway. My understanding is that it's for child safety. Since I have no small children I want to get the windows all the way down. Is there a way to do this?
    Any suggestions appreciated.
  • lovemys60lovemys60 Member Posts: 1

    My Girlfriend has a 98 Century with around 100k on it.

    It's been running hot since the weather got warm in March/April.

    It never actually red-lines and it's never actually overheated (as in, blowing the pressure valve) but it does creep up very close to redline.

    This is especially true in city traffic, and, in fact, it runs relatively close to centerline on the highway.

    Turning the heater on full-blast does, indeed, help counter the problem, although it sucks a lot in the summer heat.

    I never drive her car and just found out last week the extent of the problem (that is, that it's happening regularly)

    I'm absolutely NOT a car-guy, although I'm an engineer so I'm able to troubleshoot these things and follow directions.

    Anyway, I topped off the overflow tank w/ Dex-cool (although it didn't need very much) and that's made no effect.

    I'm going to take a look at it tonight or tomorrow and I was hoping for some advice on what to look for.

    My initial reaction when she told me today that running the heater pushes the temp gauge back down is that it's an airflow issue, and my instinct was to watch and make sure the fans turn on.

    She's been watching lately and she doesn't have any coolant leaks.

    Also, my thinking is that if she had a coolant-flow problem, why would running the heater help? Or, for that matter, running on the highway?

    I'd appreciate any help you guys can offer! I'm new here, and i was directed here after asking around on the Volvo forums i usually frequent.

    Thanks a million!

  • redbird48redbird48 Member Posts: 17
  • mark58mark58 Member Posts: 4
    In spite of many of the posts here, I just bought a '98 Custom with 73K on it from a used car lot because the price was "right." The Carfax report (for what it's worth) showed a regular maintenance history on the car but, of course, no details as to what was actually done. Any suggestions as to "preventative" maintenance I might want to do right away? Reading about this Dexcool issue makes me think I should have a flush and refill right away. If so, do I need to take it to a GM dealer to make sure it's done right? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks for the help.
  • darthmonkey200darthmonkey200 Member Posts: 1
    Ok... so I have a 89 Century Custom 3.3L. My problem consists of a failed AC (clutch won't spin) and speedometer and cruise control problems. When the check engine light comes on, the speedo, cruise, and AC fails. When the light goes off (usually after driving steady highway speeds) the problems just cease to exist. So my question is... What the heck is going on here? All my mechanic buddies are completely baffled. Any input would be just neato... thanks. -Matt
  • joejbjoejb Member Posts: 4
    Boris: I can't find this switch. Is it on the instrument
    cluster module, part of the headlamp switch or a separate
    unit behind the dash somewhere?
    Any elaboration is appreciated.

    Thanks, Joe
  • redbird48redbird48 Member Posts: 17
  • redbird48redbird48 Member Posts: 17
  • mathactionmathaction Member Posts: 1
    I have been reading the threads related to turn-signal problems. (For me: Sometimes the left-turn works when
    you click it all the way down, and sometimes not. Sometimes
    if I nudge the stick just a little, it works. But if you
    click it all the way down, no guarantee). I already checked the Hazard lights, & all bulbs work. My question is, some people have said to check a "Mulifunction Switch" and some
    have talked about the "Flasher". What's the difference in these parts?
  • noodlesknowlesnoodlesknowles Member Posts: 15
    from what I understand, (and keep in mind i'm no mechanic)the "multifunction switch" is the electronic device wired into the turn signal lever itself, it controls the many functions your turn signal lever might have(windshield washers etc.), the flasher actually only controls the flash of your turn signal, and in my buick(a 94) was located under the dash,generally above where my gas pedal is, it sounds like you have a wiring problem though, probably just an old wire giving out that needs to be replaced, most likely in the general vicinity of the multifunction switch :)
  • brendanjeffreybrendanjeffrey Member Posts: 1
    Today, while I was driving, my Service Engine Soon Light came on. This was after having driven on the highway and having to slam on my brakes to avoid an accident in the express lane when the person in front of me stopped short. As soon as I got back onto the regular roads I took a corner and accelerated around a person. I looked down after that and saw that the light had illuminated and has stayed solid. My manual says that this most likely has something to do with emissions, the Car is also due for an oil change. Does anyone have any idea what this issue may be?
  • horns1976horns1976 Member Posts: 56
    We have a 1998 Buick Century Limited. The other day, I noticed that one of the license plate lamps is burned out. Is it possible to replace the burned out lamp without removing the entire rear taillamp assembly??
  • ripsrips Member Posts: 3
    I finally got to drive my sisters car and hear the extremely loud squeal it makes under these cicumstances. If you turn the fan control off and right back on, the squealing stops. Would it still be the possibility that it is the bearings need lubed?

    Thank you very much,

  • hvaughnhvaughn Member Posts: 1
    My 2002 Buick Century has just developed a new problem. For the last week we get a loud clanking sound while the car is in idle. Giving it just a little gas causes the noise to disappear. In addition, the car operates smoothly on the road with no noise or problem. The car has 120,000 miles with normal maintenance and no major problems.

    We have had the car to two local garages, neither know what causes the problem, but both want to pull the engine and put in a new one to the tune of $4000. I have not taken the car to the dealer yet. Does anyone have any idea about what could cause such a problem? I certainly don’t want to drop this much money on the car, but I am puzzled why no one can say what’s wrong. Ideas????? Hvaughn.
  • beenicebeenice Member Posts: 1
    I did something really stupid and left the headlights on for approximately 6-7 hours. I had to get into the car using the key instead of the remote. The car was dead. This is the second battery I replaced five months ago.
    Do I need a charge or replace the battery?

    I would worry about this tomorrow when I return home from work.
    Do you think the car will start tomorrow ?
  • ignagiignagi Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 century 4 cyl. and i was having a problem with overheating and the reservoir boiling. The fan wasn't coming either. I changed the upper and lower hoses as well as the heater hose. (it just looked bad) Changed the thermostat and fan relay to. now I got the fan to turn on and it cools back down but the res. fills up way past the hot water line and it starts to boil untill the fan cools it back down. When it heats up again it boils again. I've looked up, down and underneath and can't find any leaks. Nothing on the ground at all. Oh, also after i got frustrated i turn the car off and stared at the engine like an idiot, i noticed that the lower hose was squeezing in on itself, sort of flattening out. After a while it went back to normal. I'd like to fix this myself before i have to take it to emissions on the 22nd. thanks.
  • scottm7635scottm7635 Member Posts: 11
    I have a 1999 Buick Century sedan. When I bought it, I noticed a few problems:
    1. My reverse lights and license plate lights do not work. it isnt a fuse or the bulbs.
    2. when my trunk light is on, the lights across the trunk lid also light up. They shut off when i pulled the bulb out of the trunk light.
    3. Last week, the door/trunk light came on on my instrument panel. The light will shut off when the car is in reverse, or if the parking lights are on.
    If anyone knows anythign about these problems, please let me know.
  • schaggy2000schaggy2000 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1990 buick century that runs great... until the engine or something heats up and then the engine just stops running, the check engine light comes on as it quits, i've changed the ignition module and 1 of the coils, i'm not a mechanic but am not afraid to try to fix this. I also hooked up an inline spark tester and when the engine has had time to sit I get good spark but after it dies there's nothing, any help you could provide would be greatly appreciated, thanks,
  • smcconnellsmcconnell Member Posts: 2
    My left blinker does not work or left brake light. My blinker on the right does not blink when on. I was told that I may need to replace the flasher switch and may have some ele problems on the left. Power window on the driver side will not come down and the main control does not work the windows. I have to open my door on the drivers side to close the window in the back seat behind the driver. Can I get some help here. If it is easy I can work on my car to fix the easy things and from there I need to see where to go. :confuse: :(
  • halfbreed1halfbreed1 Member Posts: 1
    92 Century w-v6,auto,air,pwr door locks-windows, am/fm/cass,pwr trunk release. have checked all fuses in fuse compartment with multi-meter they all check good. Is there a main fuse under the hood, dash? I have pwr at the battery but none in the car at all.
  • brownupbrownup Member Posts: 1

    Our buick is doing the same thing. Did you ever find out what the problem was. Thanks for any help. Tony
  • todosochuktodosochuk Member Posts: 2
    I have the exact same problem with my 02 Century...I am trying to find out myself where the sensor is located...It costs $68 for a new one.
  • todosochuktodosochuk Member Posts: 2
    Hi I have the exact same problem with my 02 Century...Did you ever fix the problem?
  • neksorneksor Member Posts: 1
    i am presently in the same situation...PO401/403 codes...did the same as he did...PO401 gone, but PO403 EGR (exhaust gas recirculation circuit malfunction) help i am stuck and cannot get this code out, it just returns as fast as i start the car...my CO & HC readings are high and cannot pass e-check in ohio....help and help the guy above me, thank you....
  • mojojomojojo Member Posts: 1
    i have a 94 buick doing the same thing not sure where to start if anyone has any ideas i would like to hear them.
  • rodkneyrodkney Member Posts: 4
    my 2000 buick does the same thing with the transmission, but I've noticed that my engine temp. runs hotter than normal just before it starts shifting rough...if I turn my a/c on it will drop the engine temp and the transmission quits shifting rough. I'd like to find the problem with it too..is it the engine coolent getting hotter than normal causing the transmission to shift hard, or is it the transmission heating up and causing the engine to run hotter?.. Guessing,.. I would believe it's the engine coolent temp not cooling the transmission oil properly.. causing the proble... IF so.. why is my engine coolent running hotter than morm?
  • rodkneyrodkney Member Posts: 4
    My 2000 century low coolent light came on about a year ago, I checked the radiator and it was full, yes. . muddy looking stuff on the cap also. I immediately thought of stop leak too..then thought someone had mixed the green with the new coolent...so I flushed the coolent system myself..I've done mechanical work for over 30 years on my own vehicles...everything from changing plugs to rebuilding engines and transmissions. ..so I know I flushed it properly..which included bleeding the air from the system after refilling with coolent. Anyway.. after that my engine began runnning a little hotter than normal. I kept an eye on it and noticed it never went above 1/2 way on the gauge. But, this summer, the transmission began shifting rough..but only when the gauge reached 1/2.. and when it cooled down.. it would quit shifting rough. I found that when I turn the a/c on..it would lower the coolent temp to normal agin. So, I can't figgure out what's causing the engine to heat up some and the transmission to shift rough when it does. Some brown stuff showed up again in the radiator again, but it only accumliated on the cap. I'm puzzled.. is the transmission getting hot making the coolent run hot or is the engine heating up causing the coolent to get hot??? Any Reply will be appreciated!
  • rodkneyrodkney Member Posts: 4
    you're at step 1 of what I found in my 2000 century, I found the drain way up on the engine side of the right side of the radiator..looking from front of caR. I drained the coolent, flushed the system, and refilled the system. Only...to see the grayish brown sludge to appear again. Now my problem is with the heat gauge going slightly above the norm, and my transmission shifting hard into gears when it does go up.
  • rodkneyrodkney Member Posts: 4
    on my 2000 century, it's located on the battery side of the radiator about 1/3 the way down the radiator
  • tnilsentnilsen Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone have a solution to this. I'm having a similar sounding problem in my 94 Buick Century (3.1 engine).

  • jdh93jdh93 Member Posts: 7
    I have a 93 Century. About 3 weeks ago the already rusted out muffler and tail pipe fell off. It ran fine for another 2 weeks. About a week ago, it was completley dead. The starter was rebuilt and it ran fine for about 2 days. Then it began to often die right after it tarted. After various tries restarting it, it usually starts, but it releases a plume of smoke and then runs and idles very sluggishly. Sometimes it dies while I am driving. There is a strong smell of gas. This only happens about half the time. It often starts on the first crank and runs and idles smoothly. I have replaced all filters and treated the fuel system and the injectors. # mechanics have looked at it, but the problem never arose when they checked it. They hooked it up to the diagnostic computer, but it didn´t indicate a problem. I live in an area where there are no Buick dealers and where I don´t have a reliable mechanic.(I am new to the area.) Can anyone make ny suggestions as to what should be checked, what the problem sounds like or give me any advice in general??? The car has only 70,000 miles on it. ( My grandmother bought it new) and it has been reliable for me up until now. Please help me if you can. Thanks.
  • jdh93jdh93 Member Posts: 7
    Did you ever find a solution to your fuel system problem????
  • saskapplesaskapple Member Posts: 2
    Hi there, I have a 99 Century and am having troubles with the head gasket and a leak on the water pump. I have been told that to repair both it will cost about $2500. I love my car and want to know if putting the $2500 work into it is worth it. In order to resell my vehicle I need to put the work into it, but what is the resale on a 8.75 year old century? The low tire light stays on continually even though the air in the tires is at the right press. Any ideas on what the issue is? I'm kinda frustrated as I don't know anything about cars and my husband knows even less. If someone can give me some info that would be great! thanks :confuse: :cry: :mad:
  • kcobain03kcobain03 Member Posts: 1
    So on friday i was driving and my car just shut off. Its a 90 buick century with the v6 3.3. I have no spark. I installed a new ignition control module, had the coils checked and installed a new ecm. Everything checked out and i still have no spark. does anybody have any ideas?
  • saleemahsaleemah Member Posts: 1
    my headlight is broken and I can't take it out of the casing to change it. There are heavy duty bars atop blocking. Do detach the lamp shell that houses the light, or do I just somehow pull the light/lamp out from behind? Either way, the headlamp is mounted down and I can't get to the light. Or, if I am to pull the csing apart from the side. Huh?
    I'm confused! It's hard to do with little tools and experience? My neighbors just look out the window and watch. I wonder what they thought when I changed my battery.
  • noodlesknowlesnoodlesknowles Member Posts: 15
    what year? my light in my 94 buick century has two metal springs that attach to the inside, you unhook them and the whole light comes out, bulb and all
  • noodlesknowlesnoodlesknowles Member Posts: 15
    bad wires in your drivers door, take the rubber housing off of the wiring inbetween the door and the car, there should be some broken wires in there, I just wired them back together(with the car off and the battery unhooked) and applied electical tape, it works fine now
  • jschnickel12jschnickel12 Member Posts: 1
    I have the same vehicle and have been told that I have a coolant leak that will cost 2,000 dollars to repair. I have had other coolant leaks but was told this one was expensive because they have to take the whole engine out to get to it. I think I had the water pump replaced. Within the next two years I've had a couple different mechanics tell me about this leak and they said I should be okay if I just keep filling my coolant up if it is low but to eventually get it fixed. My mechanic that I usually go to has also pointed it out and said I should eventually take care of it. I got my oil changed a couple days ago and he said it's the head gasket that needs to be replaced and apparently that is common in my car. The coolant was starting to leak into the oil so he said I needed to get it done soon. He gave me a price of 800. (A lot lower than the 2,000 someone had originally told me). Then I called around and someone offered to do it for 725, so I called my usual guy back and he said he'd do it for that. So 725 versus 2,000 is a big difference, especially for someone who has put off the repair for so long because I was just out of college and am still struggling for money. So I don't know if you want to call around to other people for your repairs. I hate my car but I love it. I've put in a good chunk of money repairing it already and will put in more now but it still seems like a pretty decent car. I was hoping to sell it in the next couple years too. Also, make sure they put in some new and improved head gasket, I was told that GM produced a newer better version and you shouldn't have that problem again. Hope this helps and if anyone else has some advice for me let me know. I have a big paint scrape on the side of my car and was wondering if I can remove it on my own and how to do that?
  • saskapplesaskapple Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for your reply. I actually ended up just taking it to Midas. I paid 2200 for it but at least it is under warranty for the remainder that I have the car. I love my car too. I thought about just filling the oil and the coolant but with my baby in the car and winter here Fixing it was the best idea. It was the head gasket and they did replace it...thank goodness!
  • otleyotley Member Posts: 1
    The tire light can be reset easily. If you open the fuse panel by the front passenger door, there is a red button that you press and hold to reset the tire light.
  • doggaldoggal Member Posts: 17
    Hi there:
    Was wondering if someone can help me out here. This morning I started my car (buick Century 1994) and when I switched into gear I accidently went to the 3 mark. When I tried to go back to D the needle did not wanted the move on the display. The car switched into gear because I can hear it, but the needle is stuck at the 3. What can I do to let it go back to P and then move when I switch the gear.
    Any help appreciated.
    Thanks :confuse:
  • doggaldoggal Member Posts: 17
    Anyone, please????????
  • cab1005cab1005 Member Posts: 1
    so I have a '99 century and when I start the car everything is fine but when I turn on the headlights, all of the warning dash lights come on and the headlights don't... help me! thanks
  • kframekframe Member Posts: 5
    Had the same trouble with my Chevy Lumina. It is likely to be your Crankshaft position sensor. There is a trick to removing it. Let me know if you need help.
  • mtridentmtrident Member Posts: 2
    Hello, can anyone tell me where the ecm is located? I have power to the engine and a/c relays when thy are removed, but lose it when they are plugged in. I checked the relays with my meter and battery and they seem fine. I suspect there is something on the ecm allowing power but no current. Does this sound like the ecm? I'd like to change it but need to know where it is. Thanks!
  • kframekframe Member Posts: 5
    Just checked my factory service manual and it says that the ECM is located under the instrument panel on passender side. Probably behind glove box. Never had to find mine so I dont know first hand. Let me know how it goes.
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