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Buick Century Maintenance and Repair



  • redbird48redbird48 Posts: 17
  • I had the same problem on a lasabre /the dealer could not find the problem .I finally found that the rubber strut mount was broken.Sounded like a machine gun on a road that had pot holes and the shocks were fully extended.This was on rear struts but sounds like same problem
  • The locks activate but do not have enough power to lock or unlock on both rear doors. took door panel off but cannot tell how to remove electro magnets have any ideas?
  • chollaychollay Posts: 1
    My dad has a 2000 Buick Century and he has an sporadic problem for the past year or so. Sometimes when he is driving, the car starts whining and shifting into other gears. If he pulls over and rests the car it is fine. This can happen twice a day and then not again for months. It happens in all different driving conditions. The transmission shop wants to charge him 800 to overhaul it but that is alot for a senior. Has anyone else had a similar problem? Thanks
  • beaglerbeagler Posts: 1
    Did you have any luck with the glovebox on your 99 Buick Century? We have to replace ours too. Thought I could benefit from your experience. Thanks for any feedback.
  • brexbrex Posts: 1
    what size star socket does it take to take the front calipers off to replace the brake pads on a 96 buick century?
  • jfreeburgjfreeburg Posts: 1
    After plugging in the fan motor that I just replaced, I tried starting my car to see if the fan would come on (it had been overheating significantly recently and a mechanic told me the fan motor wasn't working). However, the car wouldn't start. It didn't turn over, didn't make a sound. I can turn the key but nothing happens. I've been having electrical problems with the car recently (fuses blowing, etc) and now this. Any thoughts? I'm guessing I need to check the battery, but with tomorrow being the fourth of july, it's going to be hard to do this. Thanks for any suggestions.
  • crash313crash313 Posts: 2
    I have a 2003 Buick Century that has a A/C problem. This is what happens when I turn the A/C on:

    1. The compressor kicks on, however, only hot air comes out. Almost like it's pulling air from the outside (like it was on Vent).
    2. I put the A/C on MAX but still only hot air.

    I have done some troubleshooting and this is what I've done:

    1. Made sure the compress is working and it is.
    2. Tried to see if it was low on freon - it wasn't.
    3. Check the fuses, they were fine.

    What else should I look for? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    Marietta, GA
  • redbird48redbird48 Posts: 17
    Did you check to see if you have both of the temp selector knobs pulled down to the blue area for cold and not in the red area for hot? Just the opposite happened to me last winter when i had the selector in the blue one cold morning and liked to froze to death. Made me feel kinda silly later.
  • crash313crash313 Posts: 2
    Yes, I did make sure it was in the down position (blue area). Thanks for the suggestion!
  • djofnrdjofnr Posts: 1
    i was trying to drive my car and out of no where it started to not shift into 2nd gear or go into reverse is there something i should do that may help it?
  • tmartellctmartellc Posts: 1
    I installed a new engine and computer in my 1999 Century and when I finsihed and went to start it, It did nothing no crank, the starter didnt even make a sound. I did notice that the security light stays on now. Is it a way to reset it because I thinks it just wont start because of security?
  • I also have a similar problem. Although it didn't happen "just one day", my 96 century windows do not go up easily. They usually come down fine, but will not go up easily. I have lubricated the belt and that has not helped. I don't have the tools to be able to remove the motor to check it out. The car is in good shape, and there is no rust on the door interiors. All windows exhibit similar 'behavior', but 2 windows are definitely worse off. Any thoughts on troubleshooting or correcting? Thanks.
  • abestreetabestreet Posts: 2
    Like Alfonzo I recently had a leaky intake manifold gasket and had to pay $700 to fix the problem. My mechanic also told me that this is a chronic problem for the last redesign (97-04) of the Century and it's 3.1 engine.

    Shortly after I "fixed" the problem the engine light came on and I had difficulty starting the engine. I had to race the engine and throw it into gear. I thought this problem was similar to clogged fuel injectors. My mechanic concurred. The engine now starts fine and my mechanic thinks I may have blew the debris, which may have fallen in while he had the engine torn apart, out. He used his diagnostic brick (machine) to reset the engine light and every thing ran fine for a short while. Now the light is back on but the engine seems to be running fine. I will be taking it back in.

    Does anyone know what kind of problems might trigger the engine light, especially those problems that might be a result of repairing a leaky intake manifold gasket?
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    I just removed the glove box on my 2000 century today while installing satellite radio. Removing the glove box was the easiest part. I removed 3 hinge screws on bottom, tilted box sideways, jiggled a little, and it popped out. I used reverse to put it back in. Installing the satellite radio was a real hoot. It helps if your arms are double jointed while working under the dash.
  • drjecklesdrjeckles Posts: 5
    I just purchased a 94 Buick Century 3.1 liter station wagon which ran well until I replaced the plugs and wires.

    Now, I have the Service Engine Soon Light on and the scan has multiple error codes including the crank position sensor. Oh yes, the engine now runs poorly, sigh.

    As the rear plugs and wires are hard to access and require removing the coil pack assembly and disconnecting wiring, I am suspecting that I damaged, bent, or broke a connection or wire that does not show. It looks like the previous owner added a wire to turn the AC compressor on.

    I have plugged/unplugged all the connections again, checked vacuum lines, and closely examined everything over and over again. I am putting off serious troubleshooting until this weekend.

    I am open to suggestions/advice on troubleshooting, bypassing the bad wires, or even replacing the somewhat shakey looking harness from a salvage yard. I am fairly experienced and skilled both but am always eager for advice or suggestions that may help.
  • drjecklesdrjeckles Posts: 5
    You may want to carefully examine all the numerous vacuum connections and hoses as I have found and repaired/replaced many bad ones.

    One tip is to go to your auto parts store and buy a roll of the appropriate size vacuum hose plus elbows and connectors.

    If the vacuum is not it, then you may have pulled or loosened up a connection in one of the harnesses. Alas, that seems to be my problem in post 172. I figured either a lot of things went wrong simultaneously or I have a wiring harness problem.
  • drjecklesdrjeckles Posts: 5
    The door lock solenoids are held in by some "interesting" rivets. They look like normal rivets with screw threads sticking out of them. They are 1/4" instead of smaller.

    The instructions/manual says drill them out, but you can't drill out the steel screw thread easily. I cut mine off with a Dremel cut off tool and replaced it with nuts and bolts with thread locker. You must do something to keep vibration from loosening them. The wire rods come off fairly easily, but it is tight working inside the door.

    I would check lubrication and interferences before I replaced anything. On one of my doors, one of the wires was bent by the previous owner or a clumsy mechanic. Some of the wires are really tough to properly strighten. Be careful not to break anything.
  • drjecklesdrjeckles Posts: 5
    1. Are you sure the clutch is engaging? The outside wheel turns all the time. AC clutches are a lot cheaper than the entire compressor, but you would need to make sure that it is really bad and not the compressor.

    2. If the compressor is working, the condenser in front of the radiator should get very hot.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    I have the same thing on my Y2K Century. In surfing the net I found GM's poor design is at fault. The long and short, a piston in the valve body has worn the cylinder it travels in. It's called Pressure Control Solenoid Valve (PCS valve). There are retro kits to fix the problem but like you stated its 8 bills to get it installed. Mine started acting up around 36k miles. I have about 130k highway miles on it now. I'm just going to ride it out till it drops then I'll deal with it. Its sad that GM won't back up their own mistake and make things right.
    Good Luck.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    When you turn your defroster on does cold air come out? When you turn on the A/C does the engine fan kick in? The way they're set up, the compressor won't engage if the charge is low. With the results from your trouble shooting, sounds like it should be producing cold air. Perhaps its something to do with the vacumme controls in the dash. More than once I've forgotten to push the A/C button at the bottom of the controls.
    Good Luck.
  • I bought a 2003 Century a few months ago. Just recently it has begun making a ticking sound whenever I drive. The does not start upon starting the car, but once I've been driving it starts. I can hear it out the window while I'm driving and the ticking is very rapid. When I stop the car and turn off the ignition, the ticking continues, at a slower rate and then will stop about one minute after the ignition was turned off. The ticking is coming from somewhere underneath the car, but my knowledge of cars is limited... does anyone know what this could be?
    thank you
  • cyndsucyndsu Posts: 1
    I also have a probem with the driver side window. It is posessed. It works fine for a few days, and then while i am driving it goes down on its own. I try to get the window up and it goes inch by inch. If it let it sit for a while it will finally go up. I have lived with this for a while, but it is a nusence with all the rain we have had. I have to hold the button while I am driving so it will not go down. Please, please help me. I read a few of the replies and where is the fuse block under the hood. I have a 2003 buick century. :confuse:
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Last winter the driver's window on my 2000 Century wouldn't go up or down. I replaced the master window switch ($75). Remove and replacement of switch was fairly easy but didn't fix the problem. Went back and got rebuilt window motor and removed and replace ($100 approx). Fixed the problem, so far so good. Replacing window motor a little more involved compared to R&R of master switch but not too bad.
    P.S. We'll take the rain. Haven't seen any for 3 weeks.
    Good Luck
  • stcornishstcornish Posts: 1
    Where can I go to find directions on changing a front signal light on a 2000 Buick Century?
  • My SES light came on & Auto Zone scanned to find the Oxygen Sensor expensive is this repair?
  • bxdbxd Posts: 186
    Sensor and labor, $100-150 at the high end.
  • bxdbxd Posts: 186
    Your local library probably has car service manuals, they are a great bet. There are clubs online to help, sorry can't link any. Finally - you may be able to figure it out yourself. :) Pop the hood and see if you can access the light assembly right behind the burnt bulb. If not (and typically you can't) you will find the light assembly is held in place with some screws. You undo those screws, slide the whole assembly forward a little, and then twist the base of that bulb and pull out. Although this bulb won't be a Halogen, it is still a good idea to never touch automotive light bulbs with your bare fingers, skin oils can shorten their lives. When assembling make sure you install it "level" as it was before.
  • bxdbxd Posts: 186
    Sounds like something is expanding and then contracting, due to heat. Quite possibly a clogged Catalytic Converter. Next time you shut the car off, lay down next to the car and see if the thing that looks kind of like a muffler but is roughly in the middle of your car, on the underside, is where the ticking is coming from. CAUTION: VERY VERY HOT! Don't touch it, just look and listen. Could also be heat shields under the car, these are thin pieces of sheet metal designed to keep the heat from the exhaust out of the passenger cabin. You'll see those on the underside too.
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