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I'm having a problem with the heat in my 2000 Buick Century. Although I can't find evidence, I suspect I have a leak as I'm filling my antifreeze every two weeks or so. I've checked the floor mats to see if the issue is the heater core leaking, but like I said, no evidence to support this. The "low coolant" light goes on and off, seemingly at random and when coolant is low the heat cycles from hot to cold.
Any suggestions??
Thanks!
thanks for any advice,
steve clark
If so, you need to get it fixed asap, as the engine bearings and other lubricated parts will burn up, and you will lose the engine. We had this happen to us with our Century about three years ago. I hope that is not what it is! Good luck!
Do I have to remove the starter to remove the solenoid?
stuck. What should I do?
that lets you know when to change the oil. Concern is
I now have put 4,735 miles on my Buick 2003 that I bought
about 6 months ago. Do I go ahead and do it or wait for this
CHANGE OIL LIGHT to appear?
I was quoted "Front Swaybar w// links $352". Another thing to be done is "right rear trailing arm with alignment $ 236". those are 2006 prices and it might be more now. As my car has a trade in value of $280 (Edmunds) to $ 1100 (KBB) I don't feel like sinking in that much money especially since before winter I need to replace at least two tires and the wiperfluid pump does not work anymore. The car has 138000 miles and gets 17 mpg, as soon as I can afford payments I want to get rid of it, but plan on keeping it as long as possible as it is cheap in insurance and with the few miles I'm driving mileage is not such an issue.
Do I need to replace the sway bar, can it really cause more damage if I don't? The car drives like an old-grandpa car but is fine for my 2.5 miles work trip. All maintenance (spark plugs, tranny, coolant..) is current and the car would only need oil changes in the future 2 years. Oh, it is dripping some oil.
If I keep it over the next winter, do I need to perform that "right rear trailing arm with alignment $ 236" repair when I get new tires? They said the tires would wear unevenly. But the current ones are just worn out all over. And if I keep the car for 2 years maximum, for the 8000 miles it will live that does not seem to matter.
As soon as some nicer small cars with all safety features come out I plan to buy. All 4 things to fix will (sway bar, rear link, wiper pump, 2 tires) will cost me as much as the trade in value is. And I'm afraid that as they start working on the car they might find more. Is it safe to only replace the tires before winter and it won't fall apart before next year? Or should I get rid of it? Ideally I keep it until it ends its life as it does not cost payments and won't depreciate anymore. Is the oil leakage a problem? It seems to be 10 ml on my garage floor in the last months. It seems to be the engine as it looks oily below.
I could afford new car payments or leasing for $300 a month, but feel as long as the buick repairs stay below that I keep that.
The rear trailing arms might affect rear wheel alignment somewhat but considering how little you drive, you could take a long time to wear out a rear tire, and even another new tire is cheaper than the repair by a long shot.
Regards,
Boris
I just want to say that we switched to all synthetic oil, and cannot believe the difference in the mileage and overall performance of our car (1996 Century.) I believe this applies to all vehicles, except diesels and rotary engine. You can buy it by the 5 qt. container. Do not be fooled by the difference in price. In my opinion, you will save in the long-run. The engine runs much cooler thru the summer, even when sitting idle in 95 degree weather, without "asphaltizing the oil". This is true in cold weather as well. Engine will last longer and endure more. Lubricity is awesome, and oil changes are fewer. My husband first learned about it in industry on heavy equipment and we finally tried it on our own car. We will never go back to petroleum based oil. Oil changes last longer but they are so important. Ideally, you do not want to see the oil light, or the come on. Also, before trips and with oil changes, we are adding the fuel injector/carburetor cleaner. Mileage has improved 25% since we bought our vehicle, and that is after 165k miles. Running better than ever! The synthetic is compatible with the petroleum based, so you can add to engine either way. A good rule of thumb is to change your oil every 3k miles, but you can last longer with the synthetic between changes. With the price of gas, you need to consider changing. Nothing you read about it is gimmicky! Had we not changed, we could not have made the trips trips that we have made in the last few years. Please read about it first and use your own judgement.
thanks for any advice,
steve clark
Any help is most appreciated, since I have to get my car in order to pass inspection
Same car, same year.Had the same problem last year (first slow blinking, then no blinking), but only one side. Took it to Pep boys and all they did was replace the bulb and it worked fine after that. Hope this helps.
Good luck.
THANK YOU!!! :confuse: :sick:
Thanks,
Rips
Even if you do manage to lubricate it, it might need to be done periodically. Sometimes you can remove or unsnap various panels to get a better shot at that heater cage.
Did you figure out your problem?
I thought the guts of the wiper/turn signal lever shorted but that was not the problem. Now I am wondering if it is the switch in the steering column or the wiper motor or somewhere in between...
Any advice would be much appreciated!!!
is invisible. I tried to follow the discussion thread
and see no help. Please, has anyone had this problem and
knows the fix?
assembly from Ebay for 20 bucks. Been working fine ever since. I kept the old one in case the new one dies.
There was a tiny puff of smoke that came from the turn signal lever (multi-function switch). I have replaced the lever and everything works except the wipers. Checked the fuse in the fuse box and it is good.
Then I removed the wiper motor to make sure that the linkage wasn't stuck and tested for power to the motor. It doesn't seem to be getting any power. Had to remove the motot to get at the harness plug on the bottom. Does the motor need to be mounted to test for power? Is there another fuse in this circuit?
Can someone give me a suggestion on where to look next? Could the problem be in the switch inside the steering column? I am ready to throw the towel in and take it to a pro!
Any thoughts will be greatly appreciated.
JOhn
Help!
Thanks
Thanks
It's a great car but have him install a new windshield....NEW...not wrecking yard for the same price.
00Centuries have trannie possible problems and there are 3 or 4 recalls, seat belts and more small things but one is rear drum/bolts...can't remember but go to gov't recalls on cars online. You can always have the recalls done when and if you buy the car. How many owners have there been?
Let me know what you decided.
Phoenixbarb