Buick Century Maintenance and Repair



  • michulaginmichulagin Member Posts: 2
    How can I remove the glove box on my 99 buick century? It needs replacing.
  • mfranchukmfranchuk Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone know where the relay is that turns the headlights on automatically at night. This same relay turns on the dash lights automatically. It is not located in the relay box or fuse box on the firewall. Anyone know where this is? 1999 Buick Century Custom. Mike
  • scoandrscoandr Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Buick Century. The Low Coolant light stays on all the time. I've had the car flushed/refilled, new thermostat and that fixed the problem temporarirly. But now i'm being told it's an issue with teh central computer? Has anyone else had issues like this before? The temp gauge never goes above the halfway point and the car isn't running hot. Just the light stays on.

    Any information woudl be greatly appreciated.

  • dmcleandmclean Member Posts: 2
    I believe the low coolant sensor is located on the side of the radiator. You may want to make sure it has a good electrical connection and with the engine cold the fuild level is above the sensor. Also the coolant system has to be bled whenever it is refilled. Be sure this has been done.
  • dmcleandmclean Member Posts: 2
    Had the same problem with a 95 lumina that my daughter drives. She had a warped rim.
  • lksnyderlksnyder Member Posts: 2
    My low coolant light started coming on. then disappearing for a while. Then on all the time. I kept having to add coolant to the fill bottle. I had the raditor flushed and the light came back on. Finally they figured out I had a crack in the manifold gasket. I had the replaced and my light hasn't been on since.
  • lksnyderlksnyder Member Posts: 2
    Just recently I started noticing my car hesitating when pushing on the gas. It doesn't happen all the time, just now and then. First I thought it was a bad tank of gas because the engine was making a real bad clicking sound. A tank of gas later, the clicking sound is gone, but the engine hestiation problem is here. Anybody have this happen and what the problem is?
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westMember Posts: 255
    What year, how many miles, and what size engine? Mine is a 2000 with the 3.1. Around 115k I replaced the plugs and plug wires. I use to have a 91 Century that gave me problems of cutting up on acceleration. The Rx in that case was new ignition coils.
    Good Luck
  • baruch1baruch1 Member Posts: 5
    I bought a new OEM rear lens for my cracked 2003 Century. I installed it myself. The part cost $300 if you believe it, at the dealer. A airline crack was allowing water seepage, shorting out the tail lamps.

    The problem is that the name of my car "Century" only appeared on that lens as a sticker. The name Century is no longer etched into the side moldings.

    The part I installed, depsite being OEM, does not say Century on it, presumably because it is the same part for the LeSabre, the Century and the Regal. I wrote to the president of GM with no reply. I emailed GM and after three requests for information, I was told that a plastic applique with the car's nameplate would be an additional $50!!! Can you believe this? Another $50 to have the name of my car on my car. BYE BYE BUICK, HASTA LA VISTA GM. This was the straw the broke the camel's back.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westMember Posts: 255
    Isn't it sad how people get ripped off when they go to the dealer to use OEM? Sometimes you can order OEM online at discount but its still a hassle and you have S & H charges.
  • baruch1baruch1 Member Posts: 5
    Nobody at GM cared when I told them 'd never buy another GM vehicle because of this issue (post 114). That, to me, sums up the state of the American car manufacturers, and their dim prsopects for survival. I suspect Ford will merge with GM soon, and salvage what's left of what once was industrial might. In my case, no more GMs for me or my wife, all because of a sticker. Pathetic.
  • neightneight Member Posts: 6
    Did you ever find a solution to this problem? I am having the exact same problem in my 1999 Century. My lights would sometimes not come on but the high beams would work if you pulled back on the lever. Also moving the tilt steering sometimes worked, but no longer. Any help appreciated.
  • baruch1baruch1 Member Posts: 5
    Just bought a completely new taillamp assembly. Dealer suggested replacing bulbs, then adding di-gel? to prevent water from getting into wiring. But at best, that would be hit or miss.
  • baruch1baruch1 Member Posts: 5
    Concerning my recents posts about the inaility to get a new applique for my Century, I received a call from Jennifer in the Executive Office. I had written to CEO Wagoner. Jennifer expressed sadness over my problem and indicated that parts are re-engineered, and in my case, the name tag was removed. She said that engineering would be contacted with my c oncerns. I asked about the applique and she said they are not free (the dealer wants $50 for a tiny plastic Century nametag!) I said to her that long term it would earn GM much money by ensuring my loyalty, and the short term, the savings of $3 (my estimast as to the cost of the applique) would be foolish. She chose to save $3.. Amazing company, heading toward self destruction. Mr. Wagoner or anyone from Buick-are you reading this? Do you agree? Bye bye Buick and all things GM. -Nick
  • buickcentury66buickcentury66 Member Posts: 1
    I have had my 99 buick century custom for a few months and yesterday the drivers window came off the track?? I have had trouble with the switch that allows the driver to adjust the other windows from the start. The switches work when they want to. My question is, I need to put the window back on the track but can't figure out how to get the door panel off to do so. There is only one visible screw and I would really appreciate any help from anyone who knows or has a repair manual telling how to get panel off before it rains!! Thanks in advance to anyone willing to help.
  • hurricane1hurricane1 Member Posts: 2
    I just bought 2 days ago, today checked the oil again and now i smell fuel in it.
  • sbartschsbartsch Member Posts: 2
    Hi, I'm new to the forum. I have a 2000 Century with 78,000 mi on it. Car has always been taken care, I bought it from my Dad with 8,000 mi on it, and have always had it serviced, including the trans. It recently started squealing and then it would shift real rough, making a clunking sound as it did. Has anyone had the same problem or heard of it? Service engine light keeps coming on too, which makes me wonder if it's actually the transmission or if it's something in the computer that is malfunctioning. Funny thing is, it doesn't do it all the time, it's very sporadic. Might go 2 weeks with nothing, then it will act up 2-3 days in a row. Any input would be appreciated - thanks. Sue
  • hurricane1hurricane1 Member Posts: 2
    Have you had any problems with fuses in your clock or radio?
  • sbartschsbartsch Member Posts: 2
    No problems w/fuses in either clock or radio. I did have to replace the gas cap, at one point that was triggering the service engine soon light. Put it on the computer at the automotive shop and it said something to the effect of "faulty gas cap - something like that. But that was before the trans thing started. Other than this, it has been a fantastic car.
  • moonchild252moonchild252 Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem. It would come and go but very upsetting when your lights don't work at night. The dealer found the multi-function switch was faulty (the know the one that controls everything on the left side of the column - cruise, windshield wipers, high beams, etc.). Of course it was a GM only part that costs $374.22 + labor of 110.00 for a total out the door of $512.47. It cured it immediatley! Good luck.
  • 79customd79customd Member Posts: 87
    Try checking the transmission fluid. The Buick Regal discussion has had the same problem and it seems the problem there is that the transmission fluid had leaked down and that was causing the rough shifting and the clanky sound. Check it out in the Regal posts. Try checking that and see if the car has a leak in the transmission fluid, if so I think we've found the problem. ;)

  • vegasladyvegaslady Member Posts: 10
    I currently own a 2002 Honda Accord, I'm not impressed with the Honda cars and I'm thinking of selling it and buying a 2000 or up Buick Century. I looking for words of satisfaction from current owners. Gas milage for one and reliability for another. Appreciate your input.
  • redbird48redbird48 Member Posts: 17
    I have a 2002 Century that was bought new and have never had any trouble at all. I have 60,000 miles on it now and change the oil and filter every 3,000 miles (PENNZOIL 5-30W). I keep the Air Filter changed also. I had to change the factory tires at 45,000. The gas milage is about 29 in town and 32 on the highway. I think you would be happy with a Century. Red Bird
  • new2buicksnew2buicks Member Posts: 2
    I recently bought a 2002 Buick Century Custom with 49,000 miles. The temperature gauge goes to the notch past the halfway mark when I drive continuously for about an hour. But it gradually goes back down to the notch before the halfway point. Should I get the cooling system checked or is this normal for this car? May it just be a case of a floating needle or is it a sign of the possibility of it overheating in the near future.
  • neightneight Member Posts: 6
    The dealer wanted over $600 to fix with the part costing $427 + tax. I found a used one at a junkyard for $125 with a 30 day warranty if it didn't work. I spent less than 2 hours and replaced it myself and it now works great! It wasn't an easy job but definately worth the effort. Thanks for everyones help.
  • stevehallstevehall Member Posts: 1
    have a 94 buick century with the 3100 v6 in it... I have an odd problem that i think is a cracked/warped intake plenum. The car will start and run like sh*t... but if i restrict the intake by putting my hand over it... it runs fine. To make the car driveable I have put a piece of ducttape over about 1/4th of the intake air inlet, and the car is driveable(I even tow with it like that, and its fine), and besides a bit of hesitiation once in a while, was driving fine. BUt lately it seems to have got worse, it will stall and sometimes i have to open the hood and play with the intake restriction to get it to start (I drove it 2800 km's to myrtle beach like this )... I was just wondering if anyone has seen this issue? I've gone to a few places and they say they never heard of it, but a few others say Yes, its the plenum, replace it. I have taken all intake lines off the manifold and plugged them to make sure it wasnt a defective device like a brake booster, and i have seperated the exahust to make sure it wasn the converter pluged, but nothing helped..... Can anyone verify if they have seen this before? Id like to get it fixed, but its very hard to find any Century's in the junkyard to get one off to try, and new is like $400.......... Thanks

  • carfixercarfixer Member Posts: 2
    Any answers from anyone? I also have the same problem ...window off track in 99 Buick Century. Can
    you send any info. on removing front door (drivers side) panel?
  • carfixercarfixer Member Posts: 2
    Can anyone give precise instructions on removing the door panel on drivers side in '99 Buick Century - Custom.
    Need to fix window... either regulator or glass off track.
  • rpunsberpunsbe Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 Buick Century with about 120K miles on it. Its doing just fine other than a noise it has started making after its been parked for a little while.

    When reversing or pulling forward form the parked positin a loud, single "Tunk" noise is heard from the front drivers side tire area. Sometimes I think I hear this noise also when making a sharp left hand turn.

    I have already had the driver side and passenger side bushing's tighetend and the swayarm replaced (it was cracked near the front driver side tire) But the noise is still occuring. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
  • redbird48redbird48 Member Posts: 17
    The normal position for the temp gauge on my 2002 century is the first mark to the left of center. Some times in heavy traffic here in Texas during the summer at 100+ degrees it may run in the middle while going slow. Then as soon as you get back to normal speed it will go back to the left mark from center again. The car has 2 electric fans that are controlled by heat sensors that come on when they are needed for extra cooling like w/ac. You may have a sticking relay or a bad heat sensor. Good Luck find your problem
  • alfonzottownalfonzottown Member Posts: 4
    Hi Steve, my name is Alfonzo
    And I've heard of your problem.
    It's common to all Buck Centurys with a 3.1 engine form that time period (also the Olds Ceria).
    Do you get water in the engine oil or oil in the radiator?
    If so, then what you have is a leaky intake manifold gasket.
    During that time period [94-96] GM was phasing out the Century/Ciera and they had alot of issues with the intake manifold gasket on the 3.1 engine.
    I found out about it on a very useful website www.carsurvey.org
    It's a pretty costly repair because the mechanic has to remove not only the intake manifold, but everything on top of it. including the fuel rail,fuel pressure regulator and the throttle body and then put it all back together and reset the engine's ECM.
    I just bought a 96 Century from an elderly couple recently and the bill for that repair was over $725. in '04.
    Try to get to carsurvey and just look up the make and model. They have some pretty useful info about alot of cars from people that had owned them. And you can add your own comments about your experiences.
  • new2buicksnew2buicks Member Posts: 2
    thanks redbird! i'll go and have it checked out. hopefully it won't be too costly. i'll let you know what happens.
  • danger_range1danger_range1 Member Posts: 3
    Hi im daniel
    Im having a hell of a time trying to figure out wats wrong with my 1989 buick station wagon.The proplem is my gas gauge and speedometer doesnt ligth up, all my other dash ligths ligth up tho i cant figure it out.ive replaced all the ligth does it matter that it had some green tinted ligths that i swicth out for clear ligths is this my proplem if anyone can help me, I would be greatful :confuse:
  • freziafrezia Member Posts: 1
    Just recently my dash board and park lights have stopped working :confuse: brake lights and turn signals work just fine. Does anyone have an idea of whats wrong?
  • bnwalkerbnwalker Member Posts: 2
    The car accelerates well until approx 55-70 mph without vibration. Once the car levels off speed and drops into overdrive, the car begins to vibrate. If I let off the accelerator, the vibrations stop. I can accelerate again without vibration, but once it drops into overdrive, the vibrations begin again. Does anyone have solutions?

    Also, the car has a miss that can only be felt if the car is idling and the engine is revved up. At normal idle, the miss is not there. I assume these two things are unrelated, but I included the second problem just in case.
  • alfonzottownalfonzottown Member Posts: 4
    have you checked your fuses ??
  • alfonzottownalfonzottown Member Posts: 4
    have you checked your transmission fluid level ?

    make sure that the engine is hot and your parked on a level piece of ground. If the fluid is brown/black color you got some issues.

    for the second problem, you could have a clogged or weak fuel injector (which could be related to the 1st problem) try adding a couple of bottle/cans of fuel injector cleaner on the next couple of tankfulls of gas.
  • bnwalkerbnwalker Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the ideas. I've done both of those things. The Transmission fluid is good and I've checked the fuel injectors (as well as running two bottles of fuel injector cleaner.) Any other ideas?
  • danger_range1danger_range1 Member Posts: 3
    yeah i have.i even gave them an upgrade from a 10 amp to 15 amp fuse.now they ligth up but only when the door is open and you have the interior ligths on.But when you close it they shut off
  • danger_range1danger_range1 Member Posts: 3
    yeah i have.i even gave them an upgrade from a 10 amp to 15 amp fuse. now they light up but only when the door is open and you have the interior lights on. But when you close it they shut off
  • tonythedoctonythedoc Member Posts: 1
    I own a 1998 century with the same exact recurring problem. Last year I cleaned the injectors, replaced the #6 injector (misfire), fuel filter, plugs & wires. Now I have the same "check engine soon", with a #5 misfire. You can imagine my frustration. The only thing I can think of is changing the ignition module. The car still runs, it just gets this code when the car hiccups. Let me know how you make out, and I'll do the same. Good Luck, my friend.
  • stevohawkstevohawk Member Posts: 1
    Hello all

    Stupid question: Where is the thermostat housing located? I can't find it!
  • jmorales1jmorales1 Member Posts: 2
    I recently replaced the front struts on my 93 Buick Century and now there is a slight rattle when I cross over a rough spot in the road or slight little bumps in the road. It does not happen during compression of the struts but more when they are fully extended and barely under compression. I have taken the wheel off, checked the springs, brakes and just about everything in the wheel well. My Century has 60,000 miles on it and has been well maintained and this small rattle is driving me nuts as there was no rattle before the struts were changed. I would appreciate and suggestions.


  • jmorales1jmorales1 Member Posts: 2
    Plastic covers will discolor with age. Nothing you can do but replace them.
  • jcombsjcombs Member Posts: 1
    I have an 95 Buick Roadmaster. The entire motor ingintion has been replaced. Still has low R.P.M miss. What could i do or try to solve the problem?
  • pville14pville14 Member Posts: 1
    After having my car hooked up at AutoZone I know that I have a bad rear O2 sensor. Does anyone know where to locate it? I know it's on the exhaust system somewhere, but where exactly I dont know. Any advice is appreciated.
  • msthanglilamsthanglila Member Posts: 3
    I would have bought some clear labels and on the computer typed in CENTURY as close to the font as possible, printed it and stuck it in its original place.
  • espozitoespozito Member Posts: 1
    I currently have a 1997 Buick Century Custom, which I love and hate all at the same time. I love the ride and the interior, but the car definetely has it's little quirks!!! I originally had problems with my ABS and Emergency brake lights comming on and staying on, but if I turned the car off and then turned it back on they went off. I had the battery replaced and I didn't have the problem any more and thought I lucked out, but I was very wrong. Months later I turned the car on and the interior dash lights went out and stayed out. A little while after that happened The rear windows and the passenger side window switches stopped working so only the driver's side window is the only one that controls them (And yes I checked the window lock button!) However when I hold the rear passenger side window button up on the Driver's side door the Dash lights come on and when I release the button the dash light go back out. Does anybody have any ideas what could be causing this?? I'm hoping to get away with a new driver's side door panel and not have to replace the whole electrical system.. Please help????
  • bobob5511bobob5511 Member Posts: 1
    i ahve a probelm with my power window system. all four power windows quit workong one day. i am sure all four did not burn up simultaniosly. i have replaced the drivers door switch cluster but that did not dure the problem. i am wondering where the power window realy isd located and how hard that would be to replace.
  • sladyslady Member Posts: 1
    my light came on and iwas told that dust gets in there and what i did was blow into n it stars right up with the light goimg out. i hope that helps.
Sign In or Register to comment.