I bought an Quad Cab SLT 4x4 a few months ago trading in my 2000 Z71 LS. I was excited about the 345hp, I only have about 1200 miles on it so it may get better but so far I think the chevy ran better while pulling my boat. I also have a ford lightning (2001) and I far prefer to tow with it, it runs circles around the Hemi Dodge. Another thing I am disappointed about is the handling, my chevy handled pretty well even with 285x16 BFG Mud Terrains, the dodge has a significant amount of body roll and a spungy feel around corners. But it does sound great and looks cool.
Average 10 mpg, but I smoked an s2000 from a rolling start. I think the guy brought his "sports" car back to the dealership after being whooped by a pick up.
Only 650 miles on the truck so far. I love the ride and the sport sound out the stock set up. I'd like to know what the thoughts are on exhaust and intake modifications. The aspiration is supposed to be great as-is. What are the H.P. improvements?
In reference to message number 253, I also have been noticing paint chips under my doors. I was wondering which tires you have on your truck. I noticed that mine have michelin ltx a/s the stones really stick in the tread. I'm going to see if the dealership will change them for me.
I bought a 2003 1500 reg-cab 4x4 ram two weeks back. It's equipped with the hemi and electronic 5-speed automatic tranny combination. I love everything about the truck. Handling, ride and smooth shifting/impressive acceleration.
problem: I have noticed when shifting into drive or reverse from a stopped position, a kind of electronic humming sound. It is brief but seems to delay the drive engagement. The sound seems to originate from the tranny area. I took it to the dealer service rep and he told me this sound is a "normal" part of the transmission design and that all of these tranny's perform in this manner. He referred to the valve body as the source of the noise? I guess I'm just looking for confirmation that this is in fact the case.
It is completely normal. The sound you are hearing is the electrical solenoids opening and closing to port fluid to get you in the right gear. Every time the trans shifts it makes that noise, but you are only apt to hear it when the vehicle is stopped. Don't worry about it and enjoy your HEMI!!! Steve
Hey thanks for the info Steve. I was hoping it was something like this. Thanks for your time and input. I took it up the mass pike to a red sox game wednesday night. Never made it there so quick! Really the most fun driving truck I have ever owned.
I have a 287 cid (4.7) Dakota with the same transmission (545RFE) and it makes the same noise. I've been told its normal and I haven't detected any problems. You will probably notice that this noise is more predominate when you shift from drive or reverse to neutral, then back again, rather than from park. Also, mine will not make this noise until after the engine has warmed a bit.
The way I understand it, when the gear shift selector is moved into gear the computer runs a short burst of solenoid signals to get electrical feedback on valvebody operation. This is a test sequence that's run every time. You may think it delays engagement, but it doesn't.
I have a 03 Ram with the new 5.7 Hemi. If it sits around for over 7 days (I travel often in my job so it sits..) and I do not start it, when I do, it puts out blue smoke. It's a big enough cloud that when I back up out of the garage I go thru this cloud of blue smoke. The local dealer is no help, and even denies it is a problem. Any ideas? I have 5000 miles total. Uses no oil, and runs great.
I work as a tech at a chyrsler dealer. We have not had any hemis come in with the smoke concern. I know this may be a pain to do,but next time you have to let the truck sit,let it sit at the dealer. Then go start the truck with the service manager and/or the forman. Sounds to me like a bad valve seal.
I just bought a 2004 Quad-Cab 1500 2wd Hemi. My buddy has the same truck in a 2003. His exhaust sounds louder and has more rumble than mine. I noticed that my truck has a small muffler between the large muffler and the tip, while his does not have this. Can I remove this small muffler and get the same sound? Will removing it damage the motor or void the warranty?
Removing it won't affect emissions only the volume of the exhaust. A muffler shop would be able to replace it with a piece of pipe for a minimal fee. Only warranty it should affect is the one on your exhaust and that section of exhaust only should it rust, fall apart, etc. in which case the muffler shop should cover.
I'm not sure why Dodge would try to take the throaty exhaust sound out of the Hemi-motored RAM. For a lot of people that adds to the pleasure of owning a hemi. In fact, even the 4.7 has a similar sound and it's been the first thing some people have commented positively on in my Dakota.
It is very likely that the item being discussed after the muffler is a resonator, but they are usually found mid-stream in the exhaust system ahead of the muffler. I have found that removing them from a system does not always guarantee the results you're expecting.
I've seen them removed from a number of vehicles (Pontiac Bonneville, Chevy trucks, a Ford Victoria, and a K-car, just for examples) with negative results. Some the difference was barely noticeable.
However, let this not prevent experimentation. Somebody's got to try it so that we'll find out. Just don't throw those resonators away immediately upon removal.
I just bought a 2004 1500 Quad-Cab 2wd with a Hemi. It has 125 miles on it. At idle I hear a fast swish, swish, swish, noise that sounds like it is coming from the back of the motor or the transmission. Is this a normal sound for this motor?
I wish the exhaust were louder, than I wouldn't notice the swish.
I got my new truck about 6 mos. ago. Its a quadcab hemi with the 20 inch wheels. This truck has been back to the shop more than any vehicle I have ever owned. Replace the brakes every 3000 miles,pulled assist handle off pillar,coolant leaking,and now as Iam driving on a very busy road it felt like the trans slammed out of gear truck dies loosing power steering almost causes an accident.Shop don't know whats wrong.12,000 miles on the truck now.I am left with no choice but sell this truck,at a big loss I'm sure,because it is just eating up to much of my time being repaired. Good luck to anyone buying a new Chrysler product.
Brakes every 3000 miles? Now I've seen brake problems before, but in order to burn out a set of brakes in 3000 and be the result of some mechanical problem, it would have to be too obvious.
1st noticed shimmy in steering wheel when I brake at 3000 miles. Had my 2nd oil change scheduled at 4000 miles so I decided to wait till then to get checked. Replaced front rotors. 2nd shimmy around 7500 miles, waited till 4th oil change at 10,000. They cut new rotors. I put 2000 miles on the truck since rotors were cut so no problem yet. I will not know if the problem will happen again since the truck wil be sold before i reach 13,000. If you think 3000 miles is bad check out the photo gallery. A guy there claims he got 2000 miles out of rear brakes.Replaced and now has problem 1000 miles later. I will update what recent problem is when I find out.
does anyone know if there is a console seperating 2 bucket seats up front in the 1500 like the ford f150 or will there be one in the making in 05 does anyone know
Yah, that would be nice too, but how about something to increase performance? This thing's a dog! Especially 2nd and 3rd gear, it sounds great but it can't get out of its own way :-( I'm waiting for a supercharger for my 03 4wd QC Hemi, maybe that'll help!
About six months ago I recieved a Trucking magazine in the mail. On the front was a modified orange Hemi. After reading the article I found that it had been modified by Kenne Bell. The twin screw supercharger claimed to boost the HP. to 512!!! Kenne Bell has a web site and Iv`e looked in there a few times but found that due to calibration difficulties It has not been released to the public.Not only would this increase the hp but if driven sanely would probably increase the mpg. check it out.
There is a 2002 RAM with a 4.7 in my area that has a supercharger. I don't know you makes this set-up but this RAM is fast! I can't imagine what such a set-up would do to a hemi.
Hi there! I just bought a 2004 Dodge 1500 Quad Cab 4x4 with a Hemi. I pick it up Monday afternoon. Yep, I'm excited! A co-worker installed the K&N 77-Series High Flow Intake Kit of her Chevy and said that in addition to a little more power and throttle response she also saw a 5 mpg increase in gas mileage. That would come in handy these days and the cost of the kit will pay for itself in gas savings. Does anyone have experience with this kit when used on a Hemi? Will it's installation affect the warranty?
Save your money! IT DOES NOT INCREASE GAS MILEAGE! I tried one on mine. No difference between the paper filter and K&N filter except for the additional dirt the K&N filter allows into your engine and the possibility of an over oiled filter damaging engine control sensors.
Want to save gas! buy an economy car!
Want a Hemi Ram, learn to live with the poor gas mileage.
I drive mine like a grandpa most of the time and my average mpg over 12,000 miles is 14.1 mpg. Best mileage on flat and level interstate doing 67 mph with cruise on was 17.6 mpg. Worse was when not in grandpa mode, 10.3 mpg. By the way most of these figures are based on 87 octane gas. The recommended 89 octane gas here in the Mid West contains 10% alcohol. I can feel no performance difference between 87 and 89 octane but I do see an average of slightly more than 1 mpg LESS using the gas containing alcohol! Rick
Obyone, yeah I think you may have a point. Of all the positive reports I've heard about fuel consumption reduction and power gain, fewer seem to be Dodge truck owners. I think the air induction systems on Dodge trucks may already be very efficient, hence less to gain. I think the GM guys feel more strongly about positive results.
Still, a 5 MPG gain just doesn't seem realistic to me on anything. Heck, depending on what they were getting initially on that GM a 5 MPG increase could mean anywhere from 25 to 50%!
Hi all.. I asked my co-worker about the Chevy today. It's a 2003 Chevy 2500 4x4 with a 350. It had a little over 10,000 miles on it when they installed the intake kit. They kept track of gas milelage before and after installation and claim their mileage improved by 5 mpg, in addition to a little more power. It's quite possible that the Dodge Hemi won't see an increase in power or mileage if the intake is already quite efficient. Anyway, that's why I asked the question about the K&N 77-Series Intake Kit as I don't want to waste my money on an intake kit if it won't improve upon the stock intake.
I'll be picking up my new truck in a few hours, and yes, I can't wait!!!!!!
The 350 was retired on the 2500 in 2000 and replaced by the 6.0. The 10/16 you describe sounds like city/highway driving. Bottom line....nothing from K&N will increase mileage in your truck by 5 mpg. If that's what you're looking for you will be disappointed.
Happy with my 2003 SLT2500 4x4 Hemi, love the power and sound on the flats and I didn't buy it to save gas. However on my first trip to the mountains with my 26 ft travel trailer which weighs about 4400lb dry so I'm guessing loaded with a full water tank and propane etc around 5500lb the transmission gear ratio between 1st and 2nd gear is too big of a step and I was only able to maintain about 40mph on the steeper sections. If it slowed to any less than 40MPH it would downshift to 1st gear and scream at 5500 RPM for a little and then go to 2nd again almost right away. With this engine and driveline combo I believe it's rated to tow around 9000lb. I would be creeping along in 1st gear with that much weight behind it. The ratios in 3rd, 4th, and 5th seem to be fairly close together. Shouldn't Chrysler have figured out that a 2500 would be used primarily for towing and hauling heavy loads, and need closer ratios in the 1st 4 gears and prehaps a bigger step into 5th? The Hemi does'nt develope it's peak torque down low as the Fords do so it needs to rev higher therefore requiring closer ratios to stay in it's power band. I'd be interested in hearing some other people's experiences with this combo towing in the mountains. I was very disappointed for the first time.
I honestly don't know if you are experiencing something normal or not. But a few comments anyway.
The 545RFE transmission is fully adaptive, meeaning it learns and relearns your driving technique based on driver demand. You don't say how many miles are on this vehicle, but I'm assuming it has gone through at least one learn cycle. When you drive it everyday back and forth to work, or around town, the transmission will perform in that mode until you repeat a number of demand cycles to relearn a new shift pattern.
It's possible that you are not shifting enough to relearn a new shift pattern with an increased load. I experience this in my Dakota when I load my ATV and tools and make the 125 mile trip to my property. Since I only have one stop before I get on the interstate by the time I get into New York's Southerntier where it's quite hilly, the Dakota seems a little hesitant to shift into a lower gear. By the time I leave the property it has relearned the hilly country because it's gone through enough learn cycles.
In the case of the 5.7 Hemi engine, I believe it makes 301 lbs of torque at 1100 RPM. That's quite low, and I think more that the 5.4 Ford at the same RPM. I don't believe that the issue in your case is torque availability, but transmission shift points.
In your example noted in the previous message, where you in the tow/haul mode when it kicked down into 1st gear?
Hey Dusty, To answer a couple of your questions. I have about 13k miles on my truck and it should have had enough time to learn since the steeper sections of the trip don't start until you are 35 to 40 miles out and as soon as you start dragging the travel trailer it doesn't get a chance to even shift into overdrive except for a couple of short downhill runs. I'm quite sure that it isn't the shift points and as I mentioned it will rev right to the redline before shifting but then drops to only 3000 rpm and then just doesn't have the torque to pull it up thru the revs in second. I think the info you gave on the ratios really tells the tale, the step between 1st and 2nd is just too big. Compare the ratios of the Nissan Titan trans, 1st-3.83, 2nd- 2.87, 3rd-1.52, 4th-1.00, 5th-.83 and even with a higher geared axle ratio of 3.36 vs 3.73 which is what I have, the difference in ratios is quite substantial. I'm actually considering the possibility of installing a Gear Vendors (or similar)underdrive unit although there would have to be some sort of lock out to keep from activating it while in 4x4 mode. Also you asked if I was in tow haul mode and my truck( 2003 model) actually only has an overdrive defeat switch so I don't know how that compares to the 2004s. I tried it both in and out but it made no difference. I appreciate your input. Thanks, Hemidudeaz
Hey all, I'm in the process of buying a 2004 RAM, upgrading from my 2000 Dakota Quad. Current contestant is SLT, 4.7 Auto, All the SLT electrics, towing package, Timberline Green mono, chrome stepbars and bedliner for approx 21,500. Any input on the 4.7 vs the HEMI besides the massive power and torque improvement? I dont see much commentary on the 4.7 in the RAM to compare experiences overall. I have the 4.7 in the quad and am very happy with it's performance, and understand in the RAM its no slouch either. Oh yeah, old time member, lurker but somehow my handle got lost.. AHASHER here from the Dak Owners Club.. Thanks in advance, Bill
Bill, I have already done what you are planning. I went from a 2000 2wd Dakota Quad cab with the 4.7 and 5 speed manual to a 2003 2wd Ram 1500 Quad cab with a 5.7 and 5 speed auto.
First off I think the Hemi is slightly overrated. Using my butt-meter I think my 2000 was faster than the Ram I now have and I KNOW it was much more economical. I drove both the 4.7 and the 5.7 before I bought my truck. The 4.7 was in a 4x4 Quad cab and had the offroad package. It drove OK but you could feel the 4.7 was working harder than it does in the Dakota. The 5.7 was in the truck I eventually bought. I ended up buying a truck off of the lot because they were really dealing, I got almost $9500 off sticker before we talked trade otherwise I would have ordered another truck like I did with my 2000 and got exactly what I wanted.
Unless you really like the look forget the 20" wheels, besides being $1000 - $1350 more MSRP they don't ride as well as the 17". I bought a set of takeoff 17" wheels and tires from Ebay so I would have something with winter traction. The steering is just as precise as with the 20" wheels but the ride is less jarring.
I have just under 14,000 miles on mine and the average fuel economy for those miles averaged out to 14.1 MPG. I have the SLT with the extra electronic goodies. You don't get the instant MPG like was on the Dakota anymore. The side steps are a good deal if you have altitude challenged friends. My mother in law is 4' 10" and could never get in without the side steps.
You come to appreciate the commanding view of the road you have with the Ram but you realize how BIG it is when you are parking in a shopping mall. I would recommend the upgraded interior with the fold flat platform. It is great for grocery shopping or for items you dont want to put in the bed.
Anyway getting back to the 4.7, one of the guys at work had a 4.7 auto SLT 4x4 with none of the extra options. His fuel mileage was running less than my 5.7 but then it is a company vehicle and probably gets driven harder than I drive mine.
Your purchase price will be less with the 4.7 but I don't think the performance will equal what you have come to expect with your Dakota.
Feel free to ask any questions I may be able to answer. Rick
The 4.7 rig does have the metal storage frame in addition to the SLT goodies, including a rear window defroster w/smoke glass.. and in New Orleans that’s a bit of a waste. Your comment about the 4.7 feeling stronger in the Dak is interesting. I am used to the smooth power curve and shift of the tranny. I don’t want to save some $$ now but not have the performance and the engine best suited for how I drive (mostly commute, highway) and for long term uses; a bit too much engine for now is better than not enough when needed later AND of course I admit who dosent want a HEMI?? The low mileage comments vary from owner to owner, but that goes with owning a powerful truck. I’m going to the dealer after work and have already told him I want to compare to a HEMI with the same options. Preferably no 20 inch wheels?? One last question, your earlier comment was you would have ordered your truck. After owning a Dak 4.7 2wd, do you think the 4.7 would meet the needs of a 2wd RAM (my configuration choice)or is it just a good choice if you want to save on gas and some up front $$ but sacrifice performance a full size rig needs (people hauler and eventually towing light). Honest opinions are respectfully solicited here.. Thanks again,
Update: Went back to the dealer, same guy who sold me the Dak.. nice guy. More test drives - drove 3 different RAMs, 1 HEMI SLT with Laramie and 17 inch wheels.. then the 4.7 again and one I didn’t see before on the lot (they always want to sell off the lot), a HEMI, SLT with the 20 inch wheels, Big Horn configuration. It didn’t take much to make a decision. The HEMI won! What a difference, even on a fairly short test run. Great power, smooth shifting, no hint of it working hard as I hit the interstate fast.. just a THURSTY powerplant. The HEMI with the big wheels does look good and had felt good to me, I don’t really know why some don’t like the big wheels (but I do see your point, Rick, the 17's did feel more forgiving on a un-smooth test drive service road).Overall however I thought it rode pretty much like my Dak with the Handling package. The one I signed for was exactly what I would have ordered (except I would have gone for the 17 inch chrome wheels as well) , so I took it off the lot: 5.7 HEMI, Auto, 3.92 LSD, HD cooling, towing with receiver, 4 wheel anti-lock, rear slider window, metal rear seat storage rack, SLT and all the electric goodies, including fog lights, big horn configuration, premium cloth, chrome mopar step bars, NO slide in liner (for the $ - I’ll have it sprayed in), lug locks, Forrest green mono, side door guards, security package, dimming mirror.. and I signed for $21900. I’m a happy camper, and its getting detailed today and should be ready tonight.. And I get a HEMI promotional hat.. whoo hoo <g>.. Great help here, and I appreciate the input.. and I now can say “YEAH, IT’S GOT A HEMI!” Respects, Bill
Bill, congratulations on the purchase. I think you will be happier with the Hemi. I believe it more accurately mimics the performance of the 4.7 Dakota. Based on my experience If you drive like you are paying for it rather than like you stole it your gas mileage will be acceptable. I track my gas consumption for every tank on a Palm Pilot program called Automobile. My mileage range was a low of 12.3 in the dead of a Mid-West winter to a high just this month of 16.2. I have seen 18 and over on the overhead display on steady interstate driving but I have never gone for a full tank of interstate driving and as soon as you hit stop and go driving the average plummets. Your truck is very similar to mine. I don't have the security package or the rear slider otherwise they are the same. Mine is white with the silver lower body accent. Good luck with your purchase. Rick
Thanks Rick, you have been very helpful when I needed your owners thouuhts and observations on a similarly configured rig which I was looking at, and a previuous Dak owner at that. Now, my first day/overnight/commute impressions of my HEMI rig. First - AHHHHHHHHH! What a commanding powerful ride I had to work!!! Ok, excellent dealer service, they are even going to order touchup paint (full monochrome timberline green with taupe interior), rear mats and a dealer discount on a rhinoliner sprayin and dark tint for the front windows. Very clean, but I wil do better this weekend. NO paint defects seen (bright sun at delivery). First ride home, had to adjust to the power the pedal delivers by just looking at it <G>. Chirped the rear once, but I suppose the lSD saved me other times. Smooth idle and shifting. Dash display is excellent for me, as I drive usually early AM (<5), and the lights are AMAZING over the Dak.. bright and the driving lights are actually useful. Even had a cup holder curtsey light (big coffee drinker here). The wife is happy too. high, comfortable seats, and she put up the center console and promptly tested the room for snooze mode next to me. It passed (she is 5-3). The trip computer will be my next lesson in operation, but the computer did say 18.1 on the commute (45 miles pure highway) and dropped as I got to the facility and more stop and go. Rick, how accurate do you think it is, based on your observations?? NO noise or problems in the cab, quieter than the Dak actually. Only one "defect" to be mentioned to my dealer for fix, the drivers door pull handle has approx 1/4 play before it engages, all other are tight. I see potential for chatter, so I will have it replaced. I hope to compare notes here to see how to care for the HEMI rig. One final note/question.. The book says 87 or greater octane is ok, but that 89 is recommended for best performance. Thoughts?? Respects again, Bill
Overhead computer accuracy? If your driving situation is constant I have found the overhead display to be very accurate. My calculated mileage is generally within .2MPG of the overhead display, most often under the displayed mileage. If the driving changes, say freeway the first half tank and city driving the remainder the accuracy falls off. Then I see differences of .5 to say .7 off of the overhead. This can be above or below the display depending if the highway travel is on the first half or the last half of the tank. I had read on the Dakota display it used just the last 100 miles in computing the average and it seem like this may be true for the Ram.
I tried using 89 octane fuel this past winter and felt no improvement on the butt-meter. I actually saw a decrease in MPG compared to the 87 octane. 89 octane in the Mid-West is 10% alcohol which has less BTUs available compared to regular. So I have stayed with 87 octane but do purchase from a name brand station. It was Amoco but now is BP.
I have about 13,500 miles on my Ram and the only thing it has been at the dealer for is oil changes. I used to change my own but when I bought the truck I also bought a Damlier/Chrysler oil change contract. In my case I bought the 7 year/4 oil changes a year contract. I paid up front for the contract and the per oil change cost came out to less than $6. I couldn't buy the oil and filter for that. Of course when you bring it in they offer other services for additional cost but if not required for warranty I pass.
Speaking of costs, if you don't change your own sparkplugs you may get a shock at the 30,000 mile point. That service will cost you near $200 from what I heard. The Ram also gets pricey at the 15,000 mile point under service plan "B" The differentials get new lube every 15,000 for about $100 per axle. Rick
For the info and observations you have made in your first 13,500 miles. I'll monitor my mileage and see, but I know it's too soon mile-wise to be worried; I'll wait till after the break-in period to check. Just at 300 now and it's time to settle in and observe how she behaves with my driving habits. I go in next Sat for the spray-in liner the dealer scheduled for me at the local truck shop; dealer price $275 OTD. Tint is next on the front windows. I have noticed on closer engine compartment check (using a step ladder) a white "dusty" residue on the valve covers and certain areas.. not sure what it is, but otherwise everything looks good. Do you or anyone here know what it is from and how to clean, or if I even should worry about it?? Also the oil filler neck looks to be the same as used on the Dak.. which we all remember had the milky oil residue problem.. It's set back a ways now, so is that an issue here?? My dealer did not suggest or offer an oil change contract. or I would have gone for it as well.. Oh well, Mobile 1 and I'll do it myself at 5,000 miles or so I think. Thanks for the $$ heads up.. I'll be prepared now as I tend to follow the fluid replacement schedule.. Bill
Had my 03' Quad cab 4X4 Hemi for 1 year now (20,567 miles). I've learned the gas mileage is horrible, 12 mpg almost all the time. The headlights are terrible and the high beams are no better (my girlfriends Camry headlights blow them away). The a/c is weird, sometimes its cold, sometimes its not. Other than those issues the truck has been mechanically sound. Also, I have a K&N drop in filter and notice no difference in power or mileage. Any similar experiences?
I thought I’d provide an update on my HEMI rig. 578 miles logged, 85 percent highway commute approx 70 – 78 mph (troopers all over my route normally). Most recent refill check was averaging about 17 MPG hwy. Of course, I see the drop when I switch to in town driving, but that’s expected; I wanted a full size Ram, and the 5.7 HEMI, and IMHO it’s worth it. I knew full well the mileage was lower than the other choices in this class, but I wanted THIS truck and engine, plus I’m a Dodge loyalist; I survived the Dakota brake dark years (the Dakota with the 4.7/auto was an awesome ride otherwise) Smooth power curve and I believe it seems to be learning my driving habits.
One wind noise concern where I have that loose outside drivers door handle, but Tuesday it goes in to have that adjusted/replaced. A minor issue all things considered, especially since they jumped right on getting it fixed ( I chose the shop date to accommodate my work schedule, and honestly I wanted to take it thome the day I went in to accept deliver, otherwise they would have fixed it the next day). I’ll admit it should have been noticed by the salespeople, but who knows why the seem to ignore obvious things like that. 4 wheel anti lock brakes tight and positive, and yes I feel the lights are much better now. So at one week in my driveway, I’m completely satisfied and happy with the Ram. And YES, I have gotten a few double takes and looks from other truck pilots.. Lets face it, the Ram has a unique commanding appearance coming at you.. (I’m all timberline green with lots of chrome, including Mopar step bars. Bed rail bars coming soon)..
I found the K&N filter for the HEMI.. which wasn't as easy as I thought. 3 places did not have it in stock, and finally found it at the truck shop that did my spray in this weekend (EXCELLENT job.. I was very pleased with the work). IMHO, using my butt-o-meter (with due respect, it's not my term, I borrowed it)I know I had an immediate change in the behavior of the 5.7. She seemed to have a bit more low end power, and responded better at highway speeds in lane changing/passing. And it might be my imagination, but I believe it SOUNDS different out of the pipe (resonator and all). Real or perceived improvement, I am happy with how she performs and handles. I showed 18.4 MPG this AM on the commute so I will make an official MPG check soon, when I’m within 1000 miles logged. My NeoChanger arrives Wed to hook up with the OEM head unit.. I’l post details in the Accessory thread when I have evaluated it for anyone interested. R/ Bill p.s. a whistling sound coming from the front quarter panel somewhere at above 30 mph or so... but through trial and error I'l find it. Anyone else have it??
I just want to see if this is true, the post said "The 45rfe came out on the 99 Grand Cherokees, but was replaced with the 545rfe. Here's the weird part, if you have a 45rfe you can pedal it on down to the dealer and in 5 minutes you can drive out with a 545rfe, just by reprogramming the 45rfe."
Are you telling me I can drive our 99 JGC Laredo 4Liter and get it changed over to a 545rfe, how much would that cost.
Congratulations on the purchase of your new truck.
When it comes to gas mileage it's all how you drive them. I think people are prone to complain about the RAM or any Dodge because they're just convinced by the repetitive comments that Dodge's are thirsty. The difference of one mile per gallon in my opinion doesn't define thirsty.
My son just returned from Iraq this past week and I followed some friends of his in a new Silverado. There was a claim that the driver got "18-19 miles per gallon," and an unqualified implication that is was all of the time. Well, our trip down to Ithaca and back proved that my Dakota got 20.7 MPG with a 700 pound ATV on the back while the Chevy could only get 15.8 with three passengers. It seems the driver relies on the trip computer a little too much. And, the 4.7 Dak will out run that 5.7 Chevrolet.
I was told some time back that Dodge engines take a lot longer to break in and I believe it. An aquaintance's husband has a 4.7 RAM that now gets a steady 17 or better after 30,000 miles, and he hasn't touched the engine.
I've not heard a 45RFE-to-545RFE conversion by reprogramming the PCM. However, if you have a 4.0 straight six I'm pretty sure you do not have a 45RFE transmission. In fact, you should have the A500SE or a 42RE. Those replaced the Aisin-Warner AW-4 transmission in '93 or '94 on 4.0L engines.
To the best of my knowledge the 45RFE/545RFE was introduced with the 287 (4.7) motor and used only on that engine. The 318 and 360s got the 45RE and 46REs repectively.
Comments
Only 650 miles on the truck so far. I love the ride and the sport sound out the stock set up. I'd like to know what the thoughts are on exhaust and intake modifications. The aspiration is supposed to be great as-is. What are the H.P. improvements?
problem: I have noticed when shifting into drive or reverse from a stopped position, a kind of electronic humming sound. It is brief but seems to delay the drive engagement. The sound seems to originate from the tranny area. I took it to the dealer service rep and he told me this sound is a "normal" part of the transmission design and that all of these tranny's perform in this manner. He referred to the valve body as the source of the noise? I guess I'm just looking for confirmation that this is in fact the case.
Any insight is greatly appreciated.
Steve
The way I understand it, when the gear shift selector is moved into gear the computer runs a short burst of solenoid signals to get electrical feedback on valvebody operation. This is a test sequence that's run every time. You may think it delays engagement, but it doesn't.
Regards,
Dusty
It is very likely that the item being discussed after the muffler is a resonator, but they are usually found mid-stream in the exhaust system ahead of the muffler. I have found that removing them from a system does not always guarantee the results you're expecting.
I've seen them removed from a number of vehicles (Pontiac Bonneville, Chevy trucks, a Ford Victoria, and a K-car, just for examples) with negative results. Some the difference was barely noticeable.
However, let this not prevent experimentation. Somebody's got to try it so that we'll find out. Just don't throw those resonators away immediately upon removal.
Best regards,
Dusty
I wish the exhaust were louder, than I wouldn't notice the swish.
What's the VIN number of this RAM?
Dusty
I'm waiting for a supercharger for my 03 4wd QC Hemi, maybe that'll help!
Dusty
Dusty
Want to save gas! buy an economy car!
Want a Hemi Ram, learn to live with the poor gas mileage.
I drive mine like a grandpa most of the time and my average mpg over 12,000 miles is 14.1 mpg. Best mileage on flat and level interstate doing 67 mph with cruise on was 17.6 mpg. Worse was when not in grandpa mode, 10.3 mpg. By the way most of these figures are based on 87 octane gas. The recommended 89 octane gas here in the Mid West contains 10% alcohol. I can feel no performance difference between 87 and 89 octane but I do see an average of slightly more than 1 mpg LESS using the gas containing alcohol! Rick
Still, a 5 MPG gain just doesn't seem realistic to me on anything. Heck, depending on what they were getting initially on that GM a 5 MPG increase could mean anywhere from 25 to 50%!
Bests,
Dusty
That goes for the tornado as well.
I'll be picking up my new truck in a few hours, and yes, I can't wait!!!!!!
Before: 10 mpg
After: as high as 16 mpg
Hey, I'm off to pick up my pick-um-up truck...
The ratios for the 545RFE transmission are as follows:
1st gear = 3.00:1
2nd gear = 1.67:1 (1)
2nd gear = 1.50:1 (2)
3rd gear = 1.00:1
4th gear = 0.75:1
5th gear = 0.67:1
rev gear = 3.00:1
I honestly don't know if you are experiencing something normal or not. But a few comments anyway.
The 545RFE transmission is fully adaptive, meeaning it learns and relearns your driving technique based on driver demand. You don't say how many miles are on this vehicle, but I'm assuming it has gone through at least one learn cycle. When you drive it everyday back and forth to work, or around town, the transmission will perform in that mode until you repeat a number of demand cycles to relearn a new shift pattern.
It's possible that you are not shifting enough to relearn a new shift pattern with an increased load. I experience this in my Dakota when I load my ATV and tools and make the 125 mile trip to my property. Since I only have one stop before I get on the interstate by the time I get into New York's Southerntier where it's quite hilly, the Dakota seems a little hesitant to shift into a lower gear. By the time I leave the property it has relearned the hilly country because it's gone through enough learn cycles.
In the case of the 5.7 Hemi engine, I believe it makes 301 lbs of torque at 1100 RPM. That's quite low, and I think more that the 5.4 Ford at the same RPM. I don't believe that the issue in your case is torque availability, but transmission shift points.
In your example noted in the previous message, where you in the tow/haul mode when it kicked down into 1st gear?
Best regards,
Dusty
To answer a couple of your questions. I have about 13k miles on my truck and it should have had enough time to learn since the steeper sections of the trip don't start until you are 35 to 40 miles out and as soon as you start dragging the travel trailer it doesn't get a chance to even shift into overdrive except for a couple of short downhill runs. I'm quite sure that it isn't the shift points and as I mentioned it will rev right to the redline before shifting but then drops to only 3000 rpm and then just doesn't have the torque to pull it up thru the revs in second. I think the info you gave on the ratios really tells the tale, the step between 1st and 2nd is just too big. Compare the ratios of the Nissan Titan trans, 1st-3.83, 2nd- 2.87, 3rd-1.52, 4th-1.00, 5th-.83 and even with a higher geared axle ratio of 3.36 vs 3.73 which is what I have, the difference in ratios is quite substantial. I'm actually considering the possibility of installing a Gear Vendors (or similar)underdrive unit although there would have to be some sort of lock out to keep from activating it while in 4x4 mode. Also you asked if I was in tow haul mode and my truck( 2003 model) actually only has an overdrive defeat switch so I don't know how that compares to the 2004s. I tried it both in and out but it made no difference. I appreciate your input.
Thanks, Hemidudeaz
I'm in the process of buying a 2004 RAM, upgrading from my 2000 Dakota Quad. Current contestant is SLT, 4.7 Auto, All the SLT electrics, towing package, Timberline Green mono, chrome stepbars and bedliner for approx 21,500. Any input on the 4.7 vs the HEMI besides the massive power and torque improvement? I dont see much commentary on the 4.7 in the RAM to compare experiences overall. I have the 4.7 in the quad and am very happy with it's performance, and understand in the RAM its no slouch either.
Oh yeah, old time member, lurker but somehow my handle got lost.. AHASHER here from the Dak Owners Club..
Thanks in advance,
Bill
First off I think the Hemi is slightly overrated. Using my butt-meter I think my 2000 was faster than the Ram I now have and I KNOW it was much more economical. I drove both the 4.7 and the 5.7 before I bought my truck. The 4.7 was in a 4x4 Quad cab and had the offroad package. It drove OK but you could feel the 4.7 was working harder than it does in the Dakota. The 5.7 was in the truck I eventually bought. I ended up buying a truck off of the lot because they were really dealing, I got almost $9500 off sticker before we talked trade otherwise I would have ordered another truck like I did with my 2000 and got exactly what I wanted.
Unless you really like the look forget the 20" wheels, besides being $1000 - $1350 more MSRP they don't ride as well as the 17". I bought a set of takeoff 17" wheels and tires from Ebay so I would have something with winter traction. The steering is just as precise as with the 20" wheels but the ride is less jarring.
I have just under 14,000 miles on mine and the average fuel economy for those miles averaged out to 14.1 MPG. I have the SLT with the extra electronic goodies. You don't get the instant MPG like was on the Dakota anymore. The side steps are a good deal if you have altitude challenged friends. My mother in law is 4' 10" and could never get in without the side steps.
You come to appreciate the commanding view of the road you have with the Ram but you realize how BIG it is when you are parking in a shopping mall. I would recommend the upgraded interior with the fold flat platform. It is great for grocery shopping or for items you dont want to put in the bed.
Anyway getting back to the 4.7, one of the guys at work had a 4.7 auto SLT 4x4 with none of the extra options. His fuel mileage was running less than my 5.7 but then it is a company vehicle and probably gets driven harder than I drive mine.
Your purchase price will be less with the 4.7 but I don't think the performance will equal what you have come to expect with your Dakota.
Feel free to ask any questions I may be able to answer. Rick
The 4.7 rig does have the metal storage frame in addition to the SLT goodies, including a rear window defroster w/smoke glass.. and in New Orleans that’s a bit of a waste.
Your comment about the 4.7 feeling stronger in the Dak is interesting. I am used to the smooth power curve and shift of the tranny. I don’t want to save some $$ now but not have the performance and the engine best suited for how I drive (mostly commute, highway) and for long term uses; a bit too much engine for now is better than not enough when needed later AND of course I admit who dosent want a HEMI??
The low mileage comments vary from owner to owner, but that goes with owning a powerful truck.
I’m going to the dealer after work and have already told him I want to compare to a HEMI with the same options. Preferably no 20 inch wheels??
One last question, your earlier comment was you would have ordered your truck. After owning a Dak 4.7 2wd, do you think the 4.7 would meet the needs of a 2wd RAM (my configuration choice)or is it just a good choice if you want to save on gas and some up front $$ but sacrifice performance a full size rig needs (people hauler and eventually towing light).
Honest opinions are respectfully solicited here..
Thanks again,
Bill
Went back to the dealer, same guy who sold me the Dak.. nice guy. More test drives - drove 3 different RAMs, 1 HEMI SLT with Laramie and 17 inch wheels.. then the 4.7 again and one I didn’t see before on the lot (they always want to sell off the lot), a HEMI, SLT with the 20 inch wheels, Big Horn configuration.
It didn’t take much to make a decision. The HEMI won! What a difference, even on a fairly short test run. Great power, smooth shifting, no hint of it working hard as I hit the interstate fast.. just a THURSTY powerplant.
The HEMI with the big wheels does look good and had felt good to me, I don’t really know why some don’t like the big wheels (but I do see your point, Rick, the 17's did feel more forgiving on a un-smooth test drive service road).Overall however I thought it rode pretty much like my Dak with the Handling package.
The one I signed for was exactly what I would have ordered (except I would have gone for the 17 inch chrome wheels as well) , so I took it off the lot: 5.7 HEMI, Auto, 3.92 LSD, HD cooling, towing with receiver, 4 wheel anti-lock, rear slider window, metal rear seat storage rack, SLT and all the electric goodies, including fog lights, big horn configuration, premium cloth, chrome mopar step bars, NO slide in liner (for the $ - I’ll have it sprayed in), lug locks, Forrest green mono, side door guards, security package, dimming mirror.. and I signed for $21900.
I’m a happy camper, and its getting detailed today and should be ready tonight..
And I get a HEMI promotional hat.. whoo hoo <g>..
Great help here, and I appreciate the input.. and I now can say “YEAH, IT’S GOT A HEMI!”
Respects,
Bill
Your truck is very similar to mine. I don't have the security package or the rear slider otherwise they are the same. Mine is white with the silver lower body accent. Good luck with your purchase. Rick
Now, my first day/overnight/commute impressions of my HEMI rig.
First - AHHHHHHHHH! What a commanding powerful ride I had to work!!!
Ok, excellent dealer service, they are even going to order touchup paint (full monochrome timberline green with taupe interior), rear mats and a dealer discount on a rhinoliner sprayin and dark tint for the front windows. Very clean, but I wil do better this weekend. NO paint defects seen (bright sun at delivery). First ride home, had to adjust to the power the pedal delivers by just looking at it <G>. Chirped the rear once, but I suppose the lSD saved me other times. Smooth idle and shifting.
Dash display is excellent for me, as I drive usually early AM (<5), and the lights are AMAZING over the Dak.. bright and the driving lights are actually useful. Even had a cup holder curtsey light (big coffee drinker here).
The wife is happy too. high, comfortable seats, and she put up the center console and promptly tested the room for snooze mode next to me. It passed (she is 5-3).
The trip computer will be my next lesson in operation, but the computer did say 18.1 on the commute (45 miles pure highway) and dropped as I got to the facility and more stop and go.
Rick, how accurate do you think it is, based on your observations??
NO noise or problems in the cab, quieter than the Dak actually.
Only one "defect" to be mentioned to my dealer for fix, the drivers door pull handle has approx 1/4 play before it engages, all other are tight. I see potential for chatter, so I will have it replaced.
I hope to compare notes here to see how to care for the HEMI rig. One final note/question.. The book says 87 or greater octane is ok, but that 89 is recommended for best performance. Thoughts??
Respects again,
Bill
If your driving situation is constant I have found the overhead display to be very accurate.
My calculated mileage is generally within .2MPG of the overhead display, most often under the displayed mileage.
If the driving changes, say freeway the first half tank and city driving the remainder the accuracy falls off. Then I see differences of .5 to say .7 off of the overhead.
This can be above or below the display depending if the highway travel is on the first half or the last half of the tank.
I had read on the Dakota display it used just the last 100 miles in computing the average and it seem like this may be true for the Ram.
I tried using 89 octane fuel this past winter and felt no improvement on the butt-meter.
I actually saw a decrease in MPG compared to the 87 octane. 89 octane in the Mid-West is 10% alcohol which has less BTUs available compared to regular. So I have stayed with 87 octane but do purchase from a name brand station. It was Amoco but now is BP.
I have about 13,500 miles on my Ram and the only thing it has been at the dealer for is oil changes. I used to change my own but when I bought the truck I also bought a Damlier/Chrysler oil change contract. In my case I bought the 7 year/4 oil changes a year contract. I paid up front for the contract and the per oil change cost came out to less than $6. I couldn't buy the oil and filter for that. Of course when you bring it in they offer other services for additional cost but if not required for warranty I pass.
Speaking of costs, if you don't change your own sparkplugs you may get a shock at the 30,000 mile point. That service will cost you near $200 from what I heard. The Ram also gets pricey at the 15,000 mile point under service plan "B" The differentials get new lube every 15,000 for about $100 per axle.
Rick
I go in next Sat for the spray-in liner the dealer scheduled for me at the local truck shop; dealer price $275 OTD. Tint is next on the front windows.
I have noticed on closer engine compartment check (using a step ladder) a white "dusty" residue on the valve covers and certain areas.. not sure what it is, but otherwise everything looks good. Do you or anyone here know what it is from and how to clean, or if I even should worry about it??
Also the oil filler neck looks to be the same as used on the Dak.. which we all remember had the milky oil residue problem.. It's set back a ways now, so is that an issue here??
My dealer did not suggest or offer an oil change contract. or I would have gone for it as well.. Oh well, Mobile 1 and I'll do it myself at 5,000 miles or so I think.
Thanks for the $$ heads up.. I'll be prepared now as I tend to follow the fluid replacement schedule..
Bill
Smooth power curve and I believe it seems to be learning my driving habits.
One wind noise concern where I have that loose outside drivers door handle, but Tuesday it goes in to have that adjusted/replaced. A minor issue all things considered, especially since they jumped right on getting it fixed ( I chose the shop date to accommodate my work schedule, and honestly I wanted to take it thome the day I went in to accept deliver, otherwise they would have fixed it the next day). I’ll admit it should have been noticed by the salespeople, but who knows why the seem to ignore obvious things like that.
4 wheel anti lock brakes tight and positive, and yes I feel the lights are much better now.
So at one week in my driveway, I’m completely satisfied and happy with the Ram. And YES, I have gotten a few double takes and looks from other truck pilots.. Lets face it, the Ram has a unique commanding appearance coming at you.. (I’m all timberline green with lots of chrome, including Mopar step bars. Bed rail bars coming soon)..
Bill
IMHO, using my butt-o-meter (with due respect, it's not my term, I borrowed it)I know I had an immediate change in the behavior of the 5.7. She seemed to have a bit more low end power, and responded better at highway speeds in lane changing/passing. And it might be my imagination, but I believe it SOUNDS different out of the pipe (resonator and all).
Real or perceived improvement, I am happy with how she performs and handles. I showed 18.4 MPG this AM on the commute so I will make an official MPG check soon, when I’m within 1000 miles logged.
My NeoChanger arrives Wed to hook up with the OEM head unit.. I’l post details in the Accessory thread when I have evaluated it for anyone interested.
R/
Bill
p.s. a whistling sound coming from the front quarter panel somewhere at above 30 mph or so... but through trial and error I'l find it. Anyone else have it??
Are you telling me I can drive our 99 JGC Laredo 4Liter and get it changed over to a 545rfe, how much would that cost.
Congratulations on the purchase of your new truck.
When it comes to gas mileage it's all how you drive them. I think people are prone to complain about the RAM or any Dodge because they're just convinced by the repetitive comments that Dodge's are thirsty. The difference of one mile per gallon in my opinion doesn't define thirsty.
My son just returned from Iraq this past week and I followed some friends of his in a new Silverado. There was a claim that the driver got "18-19 miles per gallon," and an unqualified implication that is was all of the time. Well, our trip down to Ithaca and back proved that my Dakota got 20.7 MPG with a 700 pound ATV on the back while the Chevy could only get 15.8 with three passengers. It seems the driver relies on the trip computer a little too much. And, the 4.7 Dak will out run that 5.7 Chevrolet.
I was told some time back that Dodge engines take a lot longer to break in and I believe it. An aquaintance's husband has a 4.7 RAM that now gets a steady 17 or better after 30,000 miles, and he hasn't touched the engine.
Good luck with the new ride.
Best regards,
Dusty
I've not heard a 45RFE-to-545RFE conversion by reprogramming the PCM. However, if you have a 4.0 straight six I'm pretty sure you do not have a 45RFE transmission. In fact, you should have the A500SE or a 42RE. Those replaced the Aisin-Warner AW-4 transmission in '93 or '94 on 4.0L engines.
To the best of my knowledge the 45RFE/545RFE was introduced with the 287 (4.7) motor and used only on that engine. The 318 and 360s got the 45RE and 46REs repectively.
Best regards,
Dusty