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Cadillac Owners: Problems & Solutions



  • I have a '96 Cadillac Seville SLS with 75,000 miles. The car has run great for me until recently when I parked it for a short time then came back out and tried to start it. It would not start, even with a jump from a friend. The next day I changed the battery and the car started and ran beautifully.
    The next day after driving my friend to the airport I stopped in at a gas station and returned after a few minutes to find the car would not start again. No interior lights, no dash read out - nothing. Someone tried to give me a jump, but to no avail. After sitting around chain smoking for 30 minutes the interior lights and dash display suddenly came back on and the car started perfectly.
    I drove home and the next day I took the car on several short trips with no problems starting it. The voltage readout indicated the battery was running at a constant 13 volts. When I went to start the car this morning the keyless entry worked and the interior lights came on when I opened the door. Everything seemed fine. Then everything went dead again. No lights, no dash display. No noise whatsoever when I tried to start it. Unlike the last time, the interior lights have not come back on and the car remains completely dead.
    Of note, the most recent cut off of all power occurred immediately after I placed my iPod into the car dock (which is connected to the cigarette lighter). The first two times I had left my iPod on when I shut my car off. Not sure if that matters, but please help.
  • I recently purchased an old 1984 El Dorado that had the BRAKE LIGHT lit. Pedal travel seemed a bit low, so I thought it might be a simple problem of bleeding the brakes. I took it in and had the brake system bled but was told the rear brakes were not working and that I needed a new master cylinder.

    I purchased a remanufactured master cylinder and was just called by the repair shop that I still did not have any rear brakes. I told them to troubleshoot it now but was not sure I could afford to have it fixed.

    I've searched the internet for a brake system schematic/ drawing for this car but have not been able to locate one.

    Is there anything common between both rear calibers that would prevent fluid from getting to both of them? I can't believe that both rear calibers could possibly go out at the same time.

    Any help is appreciated.
  • dies sometimes while driving mostly when hot ,when pressing gas it sputters and dies also tranny just started doing this when i put it in drive it wont shift gears it stays in first gear ,please help
  • Hi,
    I've got 2000 DHS that just made 70,000 miles. Car has been great. A few weeks ago my "check coolant level" message came on, so I checked it, it was low in the reservoir so I filled it up. The message went away and then about a week and a half to two weeks later it came on again, so I checked again and it was low in reservoir again and I sort of assumed I may have had an air bubble or something when I last filled it so I filled it again. Each fill up I had to raise the level in the reservoir at least 3 inches, (it was about 1/2 inch to an inch from the bottom). No overheating was happening whatsoever. The temp gauge didn't move at all, I'm pretty sure it was just the level in the reserve. I was watching both from the first time and then to the second time for leaks on the ground and there are none. The last fill up in the reservoir was last friday or so and my coolant level message came on again today. When I was driving on the highway today suddenly the "service engine soon" light came on blinking 4 or 5 times. I know that means a missifre occurred and I was wondering if it was related to my problem. My oil is not foamy or white or showing signs of water in it. I'm wondering if my head gasket is leaking. The engine seems to be running fine and producing plenty of power and this is the first time this has happened. The missfire light has never come on before. My plugs could need replacing and my oil is due for a change in the next few weeks, its at 9% life of so. Any help on my problem is appreciated.
  • Hi,

    Today for the first time and somewhat a relief I discovered a small dip spot under the car while it was parked at work. It was orange and definately the coolant. These are the first drips I've seen. I'm going to investigate the hoses above that area.

  • blkhemiblkhemi Posts: 1,717
    Dave, I had the same problem you're having around the same mileage on my 2000 DTS. Turns out, it was the water pump. These things are so small that it's hard to believe they belong on such a big engine. The drips started small, and then escalated to the point where I was putting water/coolant in my car everyday. I was really scared at this point and decided to take a couple minutes and jack the car up and investigate. The pump had just a little weep hole big enough for coolant to seep out. I was like you in taking the Interstate everywhere I went so I didn't detect any overheating. I'd really get it fixed as the Northstar is an all-aluminum motor which mean the heads can warp very easily.
  • Hey thanks for the info. I'll check that out as soon as possible. About where were your drips coming down? I'm not very familiar with where all the parts are on this engine, first time I've needed to do this kind of maintenance.
  • blkhemiblkhemi Posts: 1,717
    My drips were hitting the ground in the middle of the car but the pump is actually on the left side of the motor. Seems like the coolant would leak out of the pump and follow a groove to end up in dead smack in the middle of the car, as if the radiator had a leak. Good luck
  • ssteveksstevek Posts: 45
    My son's '82 Deville heater blower motor no longer runs. Previously we could get it going by re setting the 4 wire connector on top of the motor. I don't know the function of the wires, I wonder if it's possible to find a schematic for an '82. I believe it would be similar if not identical on 1980 to 1984 models. My other son's truck had a similar situation which ended up being a bad blower resistor assembly. I temporarily rigged it so it would at least run on high only.
  • ssteveksstevek Posts: 45
    My son's '82 Deville also failed the NO emissions. The other 2 were well within limits, NO was off the chart it was so bad. The emissions testing station couldn't complete the test the first time because of something to do with the way the way the transmission shifted when it was simulating travelling at road speed. But now I wonder if maybe these older Cadillacs should qualify for a waiver. The state requires at least proof of $660 in repairs towards emissions compliance. That would probably be futile, I can see it failing again.
  • my sons caddy started to bubble up transmission fluid out of the filler tube. Took to shop and had transmission rebuilt. problem happened again about a month later and the shop installed a transmission fluid cooler. that was about a month ago and it has started to bubble out of the filler tube again. any ideas???
  • This is rather lengthy. My 2000 Cad.escalade 5.7 litre vortec engine has been hard starting setting in a warm garage, after about 3 tries it will start but acts almost like it is flooded, but will slowly pickup rpms. The other day I was driving approx. 60 mph & stepped on it & it would not pick up any rpms may have been missing a little hard to tell. Then 2 days ago I shut it off to run into business place & when I came out it would not start at all just spins over without firing. any ideas out there.
  • What is the difference between 2001 DTS and DHS or just a DeVille? We originally wanted a 1999 DeVille D'Elegance. We have since changed to 2001 because we like the idea of regular gas :). So now we are floundering around trying to find one place to see the spec for 2001 DeVille, DTS and DHS with the spec sides by side. PLEASE HELP.
  • blkhemiblkhemi Posts: 1,717
    Here are the differences:

    The base DeVille

    The DHS has all of the equippment of the base model plus chrome wheels, heated seats, rear vanity mirrors, analog gauges, etc.

    The DTS is the performer of the models. It has the 300hp Northstar compared to the 275hp in the other to models. It still runs on regular gas. It also has the Road Sensing Suspension that is sportier than the others. It eliminates that bobbing motions that Caddy's are known for. Some like it. Some don't. It has bucket seats in lieu of the bench and floor shifter. Your Concours model is similar. Hope this helps.
  • If you go to any GM dealer you can get a 2005 or a 2004 Deville folder and all is shown in there, or go to and they will be listed there .DHS stands for Deville High Luxury Sedan the DTS is Deville Touring Sedan.
  • merrelmerrel Posts: 45
    TODAY IS 10/30/05 and I am here to caution ANYONE who is planning to purchase a new or recently new Cadillac! Between 1963 and 1995 I OWNED EXACTLY 12 Cadillac cars. On August 6 OF THIS YEAR I PURCHASED A 2005 (6 CYLINDER) STS- yes, it was the 'basic' model list price $41k+. At age 67 with a bald head I did not need a sunroof but if you don't get one, you cannot even get a remote garage door opener. The interior is cheap plastic, plastic, plastic and twice I cut my left hand fingers on the poor quality chrome plating on the drivers' door handle. The end of the plastic directional signal had sharp plastic burrs and again I cut my finger. You do not even get a manual or electric lumbar seat adjustment. I have had years and years' experience with this brand car and only two things have evolved. The car gets more expensive and the materials get cheaper. On October 19th I dumped this hunk of junk for a 2006 Mercedes- the NEW C-230 with the NEW 6 cylinder engine.(only 32.4 mpg-- OK?) I feel like a kid again. Disregard the 'break through' ads that GM runs on TV. This car is a piece of pure junk inside and out. Ask me any questions you want.
  • blkhemiblkhemi Posts: 1,717
    Either way, my '05 STS V8 AWD would blow the doors off of that overpriced hunk of German metal. I don't know the major differences between the base model and the V8, but my interior is better than most Euro and Japanese makes. I haven't experienced none of the things that you have. Caddy's interior is better than ALL domestic models, yes this even includes the 300 and Town Car. I passed the 300 over for it's plasticky interior. And as for that Merc that you just bought, I sure hope that you bought the extended warranty for it because the dealership that you bought from is where it'll spend most of it's life, IN SERVICE. Trust me, with me owning everything from a '87 560 SEL to a 2002 S600, I'll NEVER NEVER NEVER buy another.

    Moreover, the C-Class is in the same class with CTS, not STS. If I were to trade in my STS for a Merc, It would have to be the E-500. It's in the same class.
  • mnjoemnjoe Posts: 36
    Maybe it's a trim level thing, but my V8 AWD has been flawless as well. The interior materials are as good or better than anything on the market. I tested Mercedes, BMW, 300C, Infiniti, Acura, Audi, and Lexus. The Cadillac was overpriced, but the lease was competitive. I think it's great. It is my third Cadillac, though I have owned many other major luxury brands.
  • blkhemiblkhemi Posts: 1,717
    I've got 26,960 miles on mine already, and the only thing that has went wrong was a broken HID headlamp. I've owned just about every other major luxury car, and at 27,000 miles, they all had major problems. Glad to hear that I'm not the only one to have good reliablilty from my STS. Caddy's build quality is up there with the likes of Lexus, Infiniti, Acura but far pass BMW, Mercedes, Jaguar. That says something for the "Standard of the World".
  • dohrndohrn Posts: 1
    The speakers make ugly noises and crack when I turn it up. Sometimes they even cut out while I'm accelerating, and wierdly if I hit the brake they will come back on. The power antenna chooses when it wants to work, along with the remote wire to my amp in the trunk. (If one is not working the other doesn't etc..) I heard it might be the cdm box, but I'm not sure.

    Help please? Dave
  • My 2005 Cadillac STS has been a disater. It has left me stranded twice. Now the car needs a new engine at 6,000 miles. What a huge disappointment. After stalling the first time, I was told there was nothing wrong with the car. The second time, I was told the oil pump wasn't working. Now they decided it needs a new engine. The car has been in the shop for almost 3 weeks.

    Unfortunately, Cadillac refuses to re-buy the car, so I'm stuck with a lemon.(doesn't yet qualify for the Louisiana lemon law) I was very excited to buy this car--it's beautful and quite a step-up from my Chevy Malibu.

    I have been very dissatisfied with my first and ONLY Cadillac! I'm sure others have had good luck with this car; however, engine replacement at 6,000 miles can't be a good sign.
  • I was trying to jump-start my '97 STS when I heard a small "pop" towards the middle of the car on the passenger side. I've replaced the battery but now everything is still as dead as can be. Does this car have a fusible link? What else could have happened? Melted cable? I didn't smell or see any smoke.
  • Ok I just went out and was gonna pick up my kids at in the 94 Seville STS and when I turned the ignition NOTHING....the security light was on tho and before I noticed that I opened the hood to make sure the battery cables were ok then realized it didnt even click when I tried starting it....I tried a couple more times and nothing....then a few seconds later I cleaned off the chip on the key (thought maybe it got wet) put the key in and the security light went out and it started just fine....any ideas as to what would cause this??? It has hesitated a couple times before (we have had this car about 2 months)please someone tell me I have not been screwed on this seems fine otherwise...we did have to replace the ac compressor it was literally falling rivet holdin the clutch(?) on the side of it.
  • My 1998 El Dorado has started giving a false "Low Fuel Level" warning. This started after it was in the shop to have the back brakes replaced. Once the gas gauge reaches just below 1/2 tank, the gauge falls to E when I brake and the low fuel level warning displays. When I begin driving again, the gauge will climb to full tank and slowly drop to between E and 1/4 tank. I've never used anything except premium fuel in the car, and with only a few exceptions fill up at the same station each time. Any ideas where I should start looking for the problem?
  • The engine (according to the dealer) on my 2006 Cadillac CTS makes a continual whining noise when accelerating or at a steady speed above 35 MPH, that the dealer says is normal.

    Previously, the dealer told me it was my Differential and replaced it.

    I'm very unhappy with the car and drive with the radio on at all times to drown out the car noises.
  • blkhemiblkhemi Posts: 1,717
    Sounds like you've got a defective sending unit. Does it also do it when you're on a incline with the car facing downward?
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    You've already answered your question. The PATS (passive anti theft system) module is calibrated to the value of the resistor pellet in your ignition key. There are terminals in the ingition lock cylinder which contact the resistor pellet in the key. If the PATS module doesn't detect the right key pellet resistance, either due to an incorrect key, dirty key resistor contacts, or a broken wire in the back of the ignition lock cylinder (common), it won't enable the start circuit. Sometimes, all that's needed is cleaning the key.
  • I have a 2000 STS that the theft deterrent system is not allowing the car to start. It says "service theft system" on the DIC, and the security light stays on. The local dealer was nice enough to let me borrow their scanner (tech 2), and it didn't have any current codes, just a history code of no key or something like that. I thought the key might be bad, but the valet keys don't work either. Does anybody have any ideas??? Is there a seperate theft deterrent module, or is it part of the BCM??? Ignition lock cylinder??? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!!
  • we are taking our cts in for the fourth time in a month to have the clutch fixed. it sticks to the floor; first time it was the master cylinder, second and third times it was the slave cylinder. the tranny has been pulled and they've talked to GM each time about the problem. the clutch continues to stick. has anyone else had this particular problem? it also looses its prime when the clutch goes out . getting real tired of this, only 37,000 miles. what's next for us?
This discussion has been closed.