Hello fellow Camry lovers
Hello group. I have a very complex issue that I hope to get some impute on.
96 Camry, 183,000 miles. I have an independent mechanic that has worked for an import place for 30 years. Even he is stumped.
Symptoms; Stalls at idle, occasionally. Never stalled while in motion. Sometimes after stall, it will start right back up and go. Rarely, it will take several cranks to restart. Occasionally at idle, engine speed will surge to about 2000-2200 rpm. Normally idles at 800. Sometimes after pressing accelerator after a stop light, the pedal seems sluggish. It seems to want to stall. Almost stiff feeling. I tap it quickly and it takes off normally.
Sometimes, I can drive the car without issue for a week or 2. Then it reappears. The first time I had an issue 3 months ago when my car would not start after a visit to McDonald's. I came back an hour later, it started up.
So there is an idle surge, and stalling at red lights. However it is very sporadic and unpredictable. No real pattern to it at all. I can also feel slight misses at cruising speeds. Very subtle but I notice them.
Parts that have been replaced thusfar. I think this is called wasting money. Alternator, EFI relay, cap and rotor. here is the clincher,,, idle speed control valve. After that was replaced, the engine light never came on again. It had been on for the last 2 years. But never produced a code on the reader. My mechanic tried to drive the car with the code reader affixed but could not pull a code up. He says because the car restarted immediately. He was hoping that it would start hard and spit out a code. No such luck.
He has ideas but none make sense. These things just go bad and would not be so sporadic. Fuel pump, Fuel filter, MAP or MAV sensor. He tried to test the fuel pump relay but did not have the means. He is confused about if the car even has a fuel pump relay OR a main relay (as he called it). The main relay supposedly being located in the same compartment as the EFI relay, he thought. The fuel pump relay being located under the glove box.
He thinks that the idle air control valve may have faulted as soon as it was replaced because it may have been the wrong one of was faulty? I got a brand new one with gasket. When I was looking for that part, many of them looked identical. But he thinks they are actually different because of some reason which I forget. He is almost leaning towards another one of those. Keep in mind that this is a trusted friend. He is charging me next to nothing to do parts and figure this out. He is not the problem.
So any thoughts would be appreciated. If you have any questions, I will reply. Thank you very much for your time.
Jim
96 Camry, 183,000 miles. I have an independent mechanic that has worked for an import place for 30 years. Even he is stumped.
Symptoms; Stalls at idle, occasionally. Never stalled while in motion. Sometimes after stall, it will start right back up and go. Rarely, it will take several cranks to restart. Occasionally at idle, engine speed will surge to about 2000-2200 rpm. Normally idles at 800. Sometimes after pressing accelerator after a stop light, the pedal seems sluggish. It seems to want to stall. Almost stiff feeling. I tap it quickly and it takes off normally.
Sometimes, I can drive the car without issue for a week or 2. Then it reappears. The first time I had an issue 3 months ago when my car would not start after a visit to McDonald's. I came back an hour later, it started up.
So there is an idle surge, and stalling at red lights. However it is very sporadic and unpredictable. No real pattern to it at all. I can also feel slight misses at cruising speeds. Very subtle but I notice them.
Parts that have been replaced thusfar. I think this is called wasting money. Alternator, EFI relay, cap and rotor. here is the clincher,,, idle speed control valve. After that was replaced, the engine light never came on again. It had been on for the last 2 years. But never produced a code on the reader. My mechanic tried to drive the car with the code reader affixed but could not pull a code up. He says because the car restarted immediately. He was hoping that it would start hard and spit out a code. No such luck.
He has ideas but none make sense. These things just go bad and would not be so sporadic. Fuel pump, Fuel filter, MAP or MAV sensor. He tried to test the fuel pump relay but did not have the means. He is confused about if the car even has a fuel pump relay OR a main relay (as he called it). The main relay supposedly being located in the same compartment as the EFI relay, he thought. The fuel pump relay being located under the glove box.
He thinks that the idle air control valve may have faulted as soon as it was replaced because it may have been the wrong one of was faulty? I got a brand new one with gasket. When I was looking for that part, many of them looked identical. But he thinks they are actually different because of some reason which I forget. He is almost leaning towards another one of those. Keep in mind that this is a trusted friend. He is charging me next to nothing to do parts and figure this out. He is not the problem.
So any thoughts would be appreciated. If you have any questions, I will reply. Thank you very much for your time.
Jim
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Some of your comments makes me think I am lying on a couch in a shrinks office.
Tell me if you agree with this. The best approach is to make an appointment at the Toyota dealer and have them take a crack at it. I only want the diagnosis, I will have my guy do the work at about 1/10 of the dealer cost. I just hope it doesn't cost me $300 for this service. I will print out the symptoms in detail and list replaced parts. Also wait on site for any other possible questions. Does that sound like a reasonable approach?
Thank you for your help, Jim
This could be a relatively simple diagnostic, and it could be very labor intensive. There is no way to know until someone starts investing real time towards it. The list of previous repairs is irrelevant to the next technician to investigate this, in fact that information is something that the tech has to "forget" while performing any testing. Previous repair information could lead to falsely blaming a given part based only on suspicion, like your other guy questioning the IAC is doing .
The tech needs the symptom details especially things like how long the car needs to be driven in order for it to act up. They need to know if rain or any other weather conditions have an impact.
I finally did leave my car at the dealer for 2 entire days. It never failed on them after several start ups and drives and idle time. Figures. They checked out a lot of things along the way. Their best and only guess was adding fuel injector cleaner, which they did. Some stuff on steroids. Hope this works. I will be adding some Lucas FI cleaner for 2 more fill ups at least and see what happens or does not happen.
Total cost for several hours of attention,,, $0.00. I was impressed.
In this entire correspondence you never addressed the question about a car. You seem to be more concerned with your own vanity. You have no interest in helping people but only an interest in yourself. Your help was non existent. Your self absorption was a useless waste of time.
See if it makes any difference.
Nobody can just tell the OP what is wrong with this car, or just about any other without testing and proving what is going on. FWIW, I have done more to explain how to take a disciplined, repeatable approach towards problems like this one than you will ever know.
The reason that the OP's mechanic has failed to diagnose this is outlined by the responses. Techs get to choose to learn how to tackle problems like this one, or make good money doing easier work. Like most, he chose the latter and that leaves his abilities outclassed by some kinds of problems. IMO. Consumers at large need to know more about what it really is like to be a technician and especially one that addresses these kinds of problems.