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Comments
The clock has never kept time correctly. It loses about fifteen minutes a week, which makes it pretty useless. I mentioned this to the dealer at my first service, and after researching it, he said I would have to leave the car overnight for them to see how much it lost, and it would have to be more than three minutes for them to do anything about it. 3 minutes in one night (12 hours) would be about 42 minutes a week! Which means they are saying more or less that if my clock loses a half hour a week, it is fully functional. Does anybody have any ideas on how to handle this? Anybody have any similar problems with the 6CD changer system, or have any advice on what to say to get the dealer to just fix it?
Your post nails the Mazda customer service level better than anything I could possible say.
Now we can measure the level of Mazda customer service in terms everyone can understand - it is hard to do with things like poor AC performance - because the car does actually blow cool air, it is hard to do with grinding brakes - because the brakes do in fact do a good job of stopping the car - but a clock that does not keep time.
I think any reasonable person would agree that 3 minutes off in 12 hours - 42 minutes per week is not acceptable for a clock - but it is within the acceptable limit for Mazda.
This is just a general information post. If your car has ANY of the following problems please, PLEASE, run down to the dealership immediately! They are a potentially VERY dangerous problem!
1) Repeated lighting of the check engine light, even after taken in for the 'phantom code' recall.
2) Refusing to start or having to start the vehicle more than 1 time before getting it to catch.
3) The car surging or lurching forward when you barely touch the gas (this one is ESPECIALLY telling of this problem)whether the car is in cruise control or not.
4) Very poor gas mileage (having taken into consideration your personal driving habits) say under 20 MPG.
My Mazda 3 nearly killed me due to a purge valve which was stuck open and letting too much air into the fuel system. This causes the car to keep feeding fuel to the system. In my case it fed so much that the car would not stop even though I took my foot off of the gas. I came dangerously close to slamming into a cement divider at 85mph! (Fortunately I had the presence of mind to put it in neutral and shut the engine down.) PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE take your car into the dealer for the purge valve if you have the above issues.
Sorry about the long post but I wouldn't want anyone to get hurt if I had the power to help stop it, so I felt it was important.
By the way, as an aside...if a dealership tells you that a power train related or electrical problem must be duplicated to be repaired, BOLT! This is not usually the case as most (not ALL) of the problems that happen to these two systems create a code which is stored in the central computer chip of the vehicle and can be read by the Mazda technician. This is generally a ploy used by Mazda (NOT the dealer) to avoid paying for a known problem with a vehicle while they try to figure out a permanent fix for it.
I've noticed something a bit odd with my 3 in the past couple days: As you know, the vent controls have 5 setting: (left to right) vent at chest, vent at legs and chest, vent at just legs, vent at legs and defrost, just defrost.
Now, I've notived that when I put my 3 in the mode where it should be just venting to my legs (top of the vent knob), I do get air coming out at leg level, but I also get a lot of air coming out of the defrost vents on the dash. I'm just not sure that this is supposed to be happening - I would expect that all air should be blowing out the leg vents when the knob is in this position. I'm wondering if a helpful 3 owner could check out what his/her car does when the system is set to vent to the legs only - do you get a lot of air coming out the dash vent, too?
Thanks!
I can see from your post you are being given the normal Mazda customer care treatment.
If you have a problem - Mazda customer service will tell you to go see the local Mazda dealership - the dealership will tell you that the problem is normal - if you are not happy you can call the Mazda 800 customer service number - if you call the 800 number they will tell you to go see the dealer.
You are stuck in the Mazda customer service - no customer service spin zone. They will be very nice to you on the phone - they will tell you that they care about you, that they want to help you - but if you ask them - what are you going to do to solve my problem - about all you will get is - go see the dealer - if you talk to the service manager at the dealership you may get the truth (it took me several tries before I was told)
Unless Mazda approves a repair we (the dealership) can't do anything about the problem.
Sold that Problematic Mazda 3 Hatch and have never, never once missed it or Mazda Service.
everfeb
tough car, also: g/f hit a water-filled traffic barrel (narrowly avoiding a head-on collision with an inattentive driver) which gave the car an ugly black eye and scuffed up quarter panel. it looked like a reportable accident when she came home, but to our delight, NO body damage and all but a few hairline scratches disappeared with a wax job. i also solved the aforementioned paint spot problem with a clay bar, and the brake dust on the rears is weird, but not as bad as the fronts on some other cars out there.
love it, would buy it again in a minute.
The issue here is what is Mazda customer service willing to do WHEN a problem pops up.
p.s. I share your positive experience with my Mazda (a 2002 Protege5).
I guess that would be the PC thing to do - after all doesn't everyone go to a PROBLEMS thread to read the good things people have to say?
Will let you know later how it works out.
Anyone with similar problems please post.
My car was manufactured in June 2004 and I took delivery in July 04. So far I am pleased with this little fighter.
What is the cost and how difficult to install?
The post a while back about the clock (in a Mazda3) that will not keep the correct time is a perfect example of this lack of support. In Mazda's world unless the clock is off by more than 6 minutes per day it is considered GOOD ENOUGH. Just tell your boss that being 6 minutes late to work everyday is within acceptable limits and see how long you keep your job.
And everyone else I am seriously thinking about buying this mazda 3i 5speed. I have read all the issues and to tell you it does send up some red flags but not as many as my current vehicle. 97 cadillac catera. first year model and at least you all can speak to the dealers on the vehicles. GM will not work on the catera any longer and if you can find and bribe a dealer to work on it. You are talking serious $$$$$.
Here is the question... Is it worth the $$?
Am I getting into the same lemon I am stepping out of?
And anyone want to buy a catera? LOL!
Thanks,
BostonRed
I am new here so bear with me....
what are SAB's and SAC's?
I have test drove the corrolla, jetta, Cobalt(auto), Cavalier 04, and the malibu(it was there). So far the 3i is the car. I just do not want to get into another lemon. To go from the car that zigs and zags to the car that zooms.
Jetta = best looking interior and solid feel to a car which may or may not be reliable, as the luck of the draw. Some burn oil.
Cobalt = too new to tell if reliable, but has good crash scores and lots of HP for the bucks. Possibly a good value if bought under $15K +tax
Cavalier = close out prices may be enticing. Was it built cavalier, or do you driv'em that way?
Mazda3 = Zoom-Zoom , and nice interior, with telescopic steering wheel. Lots of problems reported here on this board, though fewer reported to Consumer Reports questionnaire, so go figure. I do not know what to make of that. I do know I would not want to hear my steering assist while driving. A whine noise would be terrible. Not sure I am sold on electric assist steering anyway. I do like more everything else about the car. Never use to think about SAB or Side Air Bags, but I guess with all those SUVs out there, it may be a good idea. I hate to think of someone hitting my older Corolla or Miata on the side. Oh well, no one leaves this world alive.
I liked the test drive on the Mazda Tribute, though I have to set up to get in - short legs. Anyone compare the Mustang V6 to the Mazda3. A 2004 new or used would cost the same or less and it has a 5 star rate for crash test, and the RWD. I like the PT Cruiser, but I am sure the Mazda3 will get better gas mileage. Short term reliability is great with the PT, but long term could possibly be better with the Mazda. Most Mazdas hold up well L.T. though the Corolla may do even better for the long run. On paper, as in stats, and on the road, as in Zoom-Zoom, you can not beat the Mazda3. Just wondering about strange problems listed here, vs. not many cited on Consumer Reports. Maybe a 2006 model is the way to go???
Daryl
I guess if you look at all of these as normal then are qualified to work as a Mazda customer service representative! If you can say - have you taken it to the dealership - and - I am sorry you are having problems - but we will not do anything about it - you could have a bright future at Mazda corporate.
So lets find out how low our standards are - how many trips to the dealership (not counting things like oil changes) can a car have in its first year and still be considered TROUBLE FREE?
The obvious answer - ZERO - must not be correct.
I made 12 trips the first year - does that qualify as a slight problem - or is it better to just say my car is mechanically challenged.
And incidentally, instead of wait for them to fix it before picking it up, I insisted on taking it home. I had no car at the time and was in a bit of a hurry to be back on the road.
So in essence, there was one minor problem (The wipers sometimes wouldn't shut off without shutting off the car) that would have been fixed before I even took delivery if I hadn't needed to be in such a hurry to take delivery. Which means yes, it's been trouble free. It's DEFINITELY been trouble-free since I picked it up.
z71bill, we ALL know you've had a major problem with your particular 3. We ALL know you're steamed about it. And to be honest, we all agree you have a right to be steamed about your particular issues with your particular dealer and your particular vehicle. Any one of the rest of us would be, in your position. I personally would have gotten a lawyer and threatened legal action in order to get them to buy the car back. I honestly think you should have gotten out of it a long time ago, because you seem so dissatisfied with the service, but you admitted that you genuinely like driving the car, so the problem, while "major," apparently isn't enough to get you to take the loss and ditch the thing. Yet, anyway. But a single lemon-vehicle does not mean that the entire line or the entire brand is worthless. There are many of us driving around trouble-free, while having zero troubles with Madzda Customer Service, and going to dealers that have been extremely helpful. The rest of us are careful to tell our good stories about Mazda and the 3 in order to provide a perspective. The fact is, a large percentage of customers are very happy and very satisfied with our Mazda3 purchase. I plan on keeping mine for a LONG time to come..or until Mazda comes out with the MX-Crossport anyway. I'm so satisfied with the purchase of my 3 that I'm a 100% Mazda-brand convert. If I had gottan a 3 with a bunch of problems, it might be a bit different. But it isn't.
Loren
I think I made my decission...
The mazda 3i is the way to go... someone said earlier that if I keep looking here at all the vehicles I will see probs with them all. The 3i is my first choice, The sentra is my 2nd, and the cobalt would be my 3rd. Now it is just the financing junk to get through with dealing with the salesmen.
Anyone in New Hampshire have any good Dealers they like to deal with? Mazda? or other?
Thanks all, Go BC!
Loren
Anyway, after 2 weeks and 1500 miles, the car has developed a rattle coming from the front passenger side speaker/seatbelt area and also a "vibrating pebble" feel coming from the windshield defroster vent area. I now wonder if going through too many bumps with overinflated tires prematurely worn out the car or maybe its just the build quality.
Still, the car is definitely a great all around car. It proved itself last weekend in a snowstorm. Driving from Troy NY back to NYC, we hit a snowstorm and had to make first tracks on the snow. I was going 40-45mph while an Acura TL and a Maxima SE I passed was weaving and only going at 30mph.
A little disappointed that he just sent me on my way not finishing the delivery process because there was a customer waiting for him. He gave me a gas voucher to fill up the car on my own. Did you get their line of filling out the mazda survey and that the score has to be perfect? I don't know about that now.
I drove the car for lunch today and the rattles are more manageable than before. I'm sure its because the tires are now inflated correctly. Now my main question is what is dealer prepping if they can't prep the car correctly. I should go check the oil level too.
I DID however, get the same line about the Mazda survey. But this has been covered in another forum...I think that's pretty much global with any and every car dealer. But they treated me real well, so I mostly gave them perfect or near-perfect scores.
At least he made some good on the scratch...for $300 you can probably have it fixed. They probably should have offered to have it done for you though. Besides delivering a nice, pretty car, it would likely have cost THEM less than $300.
This car drives wonderfully! It may be a small car, but it does not feel like an "economy" car. I have been using my 3S on mountain trips because it is so comfortable; handles so well; plenty of power; and excellent gas mileage. On a recent skiing trip we were running 90+ mph across a lonely plateau with a sense of handling confidence. Today I refilled the gas tank; it took 12.6 gal. to refill after 471.3 miles. That's not boasting; just facts. Sorry I don't have any rattles, brake dust, or other problems to obsess over. Just thought someone may want the other side of the story.
Terrific numbers, Wayne!
By "plenty of power" I mean that the car can go at or above the speed limit, or any reasonable driving speed, even going up mountains, Fourth gear is a nice road gear for up inclines. Sure, the car could have more power to burn rubber and win stoplight drag races, but that would only get me more traffic tickets.
The odometer is accurate. I expected the mileage to be good, but it exceeds any expectations I had when the car was purchased. Perhaps, if I opened up the A/C pump, I would find that it is just an empty box with no horsepower-robbing internal components.
My kilometer theory seems about right -
Your odometer shows 471.3 "clicks" and you used 12.6 gallons of gas. Since a kilometer is .6214 of a mile then - (471.3 * .6214) = 292.86 miles.
So your MPG would be 292.86 / 12.6 = 23.2.
Which is still better than the 19-21 I have been getting without using my AC. Last summer I was getting between 17 - 19 - with AC on most of the time in mostly city driving.
From your posts you live somewhere in Colorado - what is the elevation?
My house is 26 feet above sea level.
It seems like the air down here should have more oxygen - so my engine should be more efficient.
I know from several trips to Colorado that regular gas is 85 octane (VS 87 in Texas) mid grade was 87 (89 in Texas) and premium was 91 (93 in Texas) - what octane gas do you use?
My 3S is a manual transmission model with no options. I have always felt that MT is the way to go with small cars and 4 cylinder engines. The Mazda6 with the 2.3L engine is listed as 31mpg highway. With the same engine in the 3S, I figured it could do significantly better than that. I was thinking possible 34mpg; so I am delighted with the actual result.
I can't explain the results it is getting, only guess. I live at 7600' elevation. What difference that makes, I am not sure. I have tried both 85 and 87 octane gas; didn't seem to make any difference. I know that you have had problems with your Mazda3; I would be sick if I had your experience. With my previous car, Taurus SHO, I would get 22-28mpg, and that had 220hp (sweet Yamaha engine); I would be really disappointed to get less mileage in such a smaller and less powerful car. The reason I rejected getting an RX8 was because of its reputation for poor gas mileage.
How about this then -
Maybe you got a Mazda3 S with the gearing of the i model. From what I understand the i model has a much taller final drive ratio -
I am somewhat disappointed about my MPG - the last few months I have been at - or slightly over 20 MPG - I can live with that. It was last summer when I hit a few tanks that were around 17 that was a little but hard to understand. My Tahoe with the 285 HP V8 gets 15 MPG in town - seems like a Mazda3 should beat the MPG of a Tahoe by more than 2 MPG.
Is your Mazda manual or automatic? How many miles on it? Do you do alot of real stop and go in heavy traffic? Have you done any long highway trips? I get 17-20mpg on our V6 Explorer. You should be getting much better mileage than any SUV. Your dealer says that your mileage is normal when EPA lists 25/32? I can understand variation in mileage, but your results and mine just seem too diverse to be reasonable.
Houston traffic can be a real pain - heavy stop and go - which sometimes seems like more stop than go!
I know that will reduce MPG - that is why I compared it to my Tahoe. The Mazda3 replaced the Tahoe as our main daily driver. Tahoe always got 15 MPG in town - close to 20 MPG during road trips.
One pure hiway trip in the Mazda3 we got a shade over 29 MPG - since the auto Mazda3 is rated 24/29 it is right at the EPA estimate on the highway.
At 3,000 RPM I am going 65 MPH -
Is this normal and if not, does anyone know of the fix?
Thanks.
Jason
(This doesn't apply for the first minute AFTER you have started the car.)